Last updated: Aug 20, 2014
The following new routes (58) and notes (8) have been compiled for 34 areas. This supplements the information in the second edition of Adirondack Rock. To contribute updates or new routes, simply email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your information.
Note: We are saving some content for the next edition, including first ascent data, cliff and route histories, maps, topos, and cliff photos. However, when reporting new routes, please include this information.
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Bikini Atoll (3)
Cedar River Crag (1)
Split Rock Cliff (4)
The Beyond (2)
Sausalito 5.10d PG 100'
[Between routes #8 and #10, volume 1, page 157]
Climbs the face and small crack between Warpath and Bandito. A little contrived in that you have to purposefully avoid Warpath for gear and holds.
Start: Same as Bandito.
P1 5.10d PG: Climb Bandito past its bolt, then move left and follow a faint crack and face holds to a roof. Over this (crux), then up a crack with a couple horizontals to the fixed anchor of Warpath. 100'
Location: Near the intersection of US 9 and NY 72 (Malfunction Junction), accessed from Exit 30.
Approach: 10 min, easy
The Boquet Ridge Cliffs are four small cliffs facing away from US 9 on a small ridge. They are short, steep, and offer a few lead routes and some toproping.
Directions: Park on the wide shoulder of US 9, 1.0 mile north of Malfunction Junction, near the utility pole 3316A 18T 606161 4885358 (0 hr 0 min). Walk 40' south of the pole and enter the woods at an opening cleared by surveyors. Walk steeply uphill for a few feet, then follow a gently open valley southeast to the height of land. At 4 min, turn to the right (southwest). At 8 min reach the first, rightmost cliff cleverly named Cliff #1 18T 606117 4885114. Walk left along the base to Cliff #2, Cliff #3, and finally Cliff #4.
This cliff is just left of Cliff #3 and is about 40' tall. On the right end is a series of right-facing corners and a large roof. 20' left of this are a pair of overhanging cracks separated by a mattress-sized block. 20' further left is a steep, left-leaning crack.
Twin Cracks (project)
A closed project of Rhonda and Sabrina. Begin 18' left of On Bee on the left side of a low overhang formed by a mattress-sized block. Go up a crack on the left side of the mattress to the top of the block, then up into a stem box that leads to the top. 30'
On Bee 5.8+ G 35'
Start: Near the right end of the cliff, under the left end of the large roof, below a pod 5' up.
P1 5.8+ G: Get onto the pod, then up right-facing flakes to a platform. Step left and climb a crack to the top. 35'
Gear: A large cam (4" or 5") is helpful about 10' up.
This diamond-shaped cliff is 40' tall and separated from Cliff #2 by a tight, steep, wooded gully. At the highest point on the cliff is a system of short, curved cracks which look like "somebody stuck a butter knife into the cliff while it was soft."
Butter Knife (project)
A closed project of Rhonda and Sabrina. Begin 36' left of Journey below a system of right-leaning cracks and slots, and below a shallow, wide crack just below the top of the cliff. Go up the slots and cracks to the wide crack. Go past the wide crack on its left side to the top.
Journey 5.8 G 50'
Start: 10' left of the right end of the cliff (and left of the steep wooded gully that separates Cliff #3 and Cliff #4), below a 5'-tall right-facing corner 5' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb up into the corner, then go left along a long left-rising traverse. Run it out up easier rock to the top. 50'
This cliff is wider and taller than Cliff #1. There is a large right-facing corner on its right end, and a broken up right of that. 20' left of the right-facing corner are some large, right-facing flakes.
Grunt 5.10 TR 40'
Begin 20' left of Loose below a large right-facing flake that goes half-way up the cliff. Go up the flakes via strenuous laybacks and sidepulls and finish up the steep face above.
Loose 5.5 G 35'
Go up 10', then more up and right to scary left-facing, broken flakes.
Start: Near the right end, at a large right-facing corner, the base of which is formed by a 12'-tall tower with P1 5.5 G: Go up 10', then move up and right to scary, left-facing, broken flakes. Follow these to the top. 35'
This is the smallest of the four cliffs, and the first one you reach on the approach. It's 35' tall and very steep. There is a right-facing corner and large roof on its right end.
Life's a Beach [Route #1, volume 1, page 198] has been cleaned and an anchor installed, shared with these new routes.
Hang Ten 5.9+ G 65'
Start: 10' left of Surfs Up below good ledges.
P1 5.9+ G: Go up and right on ledges, then step left and go up steep rock to a left-leaning crack. Follow the left-leaning crack over a bulge (crux), then up a steep face past several horizontals to the top. 65'
Gear: Nuts and cams up to 3".
Surfs Up 5.10d PG 65'
Start: 10' left of Life's a Beach below a jug 7' up, and a ledge 10' up.
P1 5.10d PG: Gain the ledge, then go straight up on narrow ledges to a bulge split by a left-leaning crack. Go over the bulge at the crack, then go straight up the face (bolt) to another left-leaning crack, move right onto the face past another bolt (crux) to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Hang Ten and Life's a Beach. 65'
Gear: Small cams to #1 Camalot.
Life's a Beach 5.9 PG 60'
[Route #1, volume 1, page 198] More of a face climb with a seam than a fingercrack.
These routes are located on a small wall above The Fin, directly above the route Dorsal Fin [Route #25, volume 1, page 523]. To reach the ledge above The Fin, climb a grungy pitch just right of the start of Something Wicked [Route #18, volume 1, page 520]. Once on the ledge, bushwhack right to the base of the wall. Bushwhacking is easiest if you hug the base of the wall.
There are four cracks on this face, two of which have been climbed.
Descent: To descend from the base of this wall, rappel from a fixed anchor at the top of Affliction [Route #21, volume 1, page 522] with a 70m rope.
Knot Punny 5.10a G 30'
This is the leftmost (and cleanest) of the four cracks on this face. Really fun, but really short.
Start: From the center of the wall, walk left on a left-rising tree ledge to the base of the crack.
P1 5.10a G: Climb the crack to the top. Lower from a cedar. 30'
Lichen Life 5.8 G 40'
The most obvious line when viewed from across the lake, and perhaps the most worthwhile. Steep and sustained for the grade. With some scrubbing this would be a 4-star route (would it not be for the middle-of-nowhere location and grungy approach).
Start: This is the third crack from the left.
P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack to the top.
There's been quite a bit of activity here since the second edition [volume 1, page 150]. The cliff has yielded some excellent, hard routes. Unfortunately, there are no easy warmups.
The cliff is now divided into two sections. The far left end is known as The Amphitheater and is capped by an enormous 25'-deep horizontal roof. The wall is overhanging, stays mostly dry in the rain, and has a shady base, so it's good for hot days. The right end of the cliff is the Main Face. There is a wide terrace that splits the cliff into an upper and lower section. The upper section overhangs 35 degrees and is where the routes are located. The Main Face and terrace stay totally dry in the rain, and it's sunny here in the afternoons.
Directions: There is now a good path to this area, reducing the approach to about 45 min. From the base of Springtime [Route #2, volume 1, page 149], walk away from the cliff on a good path to some open slabs. Turn left and walk through some trees to another open slab area. Follow this south parallel to the highway, down a steep slope, and onto the west side of a beaver swamp. Traverse around the edge ofa the swamp to the south end, then go directly south through a narrow canyon paralleling the Northway. At the other end of the canyon pick up a trail that heads southwest, then west. The trail crosses a seasonal stream, then some open slabs, then meets the stream again at a waterfall. Go up the waterfall and continue west to a narrow, boulder-filled canyon just before the height of land. The Main Face is just above you to the right.
Directions: From the Main Face, walk left along the base of the cliff to a beautiful amphitheater capped by a dramatic, 25'-tall roof.
The Fountainhead 5.11d G 60'
This begs-to-be-climbed line breaks the 20'-deep horizontal roof on its left side. May help to be short. This is the biggest horizontal roof with a free route in the Adirondack Park.
Start: Below the left side of the enormous roof, at a bulging face.
P1 5.11d G: Go up the bulging face to a white boulder jammed under the roof (despite appearances, this boulder is solid). Up this to an amazing roof-crack in an offset corner. Undercling left out over the void with increasing difficulty to the lip of the roof. Break the roof and climb another 6' to a fixed anchor. 60'
Gear: Single set of cams from yellow Alien to #2 Camalot. Once you clip the anchor, place a directional to keep the rope out of the crack.
Judgement Day 5.12b G 80'
This thuggy, gymnastic, technical line breaks through the roof on its right side. Hand tape and a right knee pad help.
Start: On the right side of the enormous roof, just left of a deep, dirty, V-corner.
P1 5.12b G: Stick clip, then boulder onto the orange face and climb shallow, left-leaning cracks up the overhanging wall to the roof. Rail right 6' to the right side of a chockstone, then make powerful moves up to a layback flake (crux). Layback desperately up the flake to a great jug at its top, then make hard moves left to good holds. Move up to the left side of an overlap, then climb up and right (easier, runout) to a fixed anchor. 80'
Ain't No Thang 5.12a G 70'
An incredible, sustained journey up a black, overhanging wall with a little bit of everything: jugs, heel hooks, jamming, and big moves between crimps. Hand tape (up to your elbows) and a right knee pad help.
Start: Begin on the right side of the amphitheater, just left of where the terrain rises steeply to the right, at a left-rising flake on an overhanging wall.
P1 5.12a G: Follow the rail up and left to where it meets a right-leaning offwidth crack. Go up the offwidth using jammed chockstones to an alcove, then jam straight left using a horizontal handcrack (#1 Camalot). At its end, layback up to a huge jug (crux), then go straight up the overhanging wall to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: 1 ea #1 Camalot. If you really want to sew it up, a #2 and #3 Camalots can also be used.
Second-Hand Lichen 5.8 G 60'
Noteworthy in that it is (by far) the easiest route at the cliff.
Start: 50' from the left end of the most overhanging section of the wall at a left-facing, right-leaning ramp with good cracks in the corner.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the crack in the corner of the ramp to a roof. Step left over the roof and climb another crack to the top of the ramp. (A well-placed piece helps keep the rope out of the crack here.) Continue straight up to the top. Wall left to descend a gully. 60'
Off the Couch 5.13b G 50'
This masterpiece climbs an unlikely sheer wall that overhangs 35 degrees. Three distinct cruxes.
Start: Locate Crown Crack, the left-leaning crack that begins on the terrace that divides the right end of the cliff. Begin 15' left of the crack just left of two flat boulders and below a shallow overlap 7' up.
P1 5.13b G: Stick clip. Undercling up into the overlap, then use sidepulls to gain a good ledge. Move up to the next horizontal and rail left to a good hand jam. Go straight up to a rail, then up to a flake (#0.3 Camalot critical). Go up the crack (shared with Crown Crack) to a ledge. There's a fixed anchor just above. 50'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3 Camalot.
Crown Crack A2 0'
[Route #1, volume 1, page 150]
The Warmup 5.13c A0 45'
Closed project. Another pump-fest up the most overhanging section of The Crown. This one lacks any rests.
Start: 6' right of Crown Crack at an obvious left-leaning layback flake in black rock.
P1 5.13c A0: Stick clip, then go up the layback flake to its top. Shift right and climb a black streak to a rail. Go up and right along the rail, then straight up to a fixed anchor over the top. 45'
Over The Edge 5.6 G 60'
Start: On the right end of the terrace.
P1 5.6 G: Scramble up boulders to the arête that forms the right end of the wall. Climb the face just right of the arête to the beautiful, open summit area. 60'
This small, 75'-wide canyon is in the same drainage as The Crown, but much further east 18T 605172 4880656. The main cliff is narrow, overhanging, and about 70' tall. Across the canyon is another cliff, mostly dirty, with a single, cleaned swath of excellent stone; the route Jennafactor is here.
Directions: From the waterfall, follow the cliffline left into a gully. Walk up to the head of the gully, over some boulders, and into a tiny canyon. The main cliff is on the right, facing southwest.
Jennafactor 5.7 G 70'
Great holds on this one.
Start: Directly across the canyon from Poster Boy at the base of a cleaned slab.
P1 5.7 G: Go directly up the slab to a fixed anchor.
Poster Boy 5.10b G 70'
The first route here, and a good warmup for other routes at The Crown.
Start: In the center of the face below the left end of a left-facing, right-leaning corner that begins 12' up. This leaning corner defines the left edge of the overhanging wall of Stone Cold.
P1 5.10b G: Make some insecure palm-slapping friction moves to gain the ramp. Go up the ramp to near its top, then step left and climb an overhanging wall to its top. Mantel onto a slab (crux) and up to a fixed anchor at the very top of the wall. 70'
Stone Cold 5.12c G 55'
A direct route up the smooth, overhanging main wall. Requires powerful pulling on good edges.
Start: 15' right of Poster Boy below the main, overhanging wall, and just left of a dirty depression.
P1 5.12c G: Mantel up into a scoop below the overhanging wall. Shuffle right, then back left on two rails. From the rails, go straight up to the top of the face, and onto a ledge at the top. Continue up the slab to a fixed anchor shared with The Bionic Woman. 55'
The Bionic Woman 5.10a G 60'
A one-move wonder, but oh, what a move.
Start: On the right side of a blunt, crack-riddled arête, just right of a large tree pasted against the rock 2' above the ground.
P1 5.10a G: Go up and left behind the tree to the arête, and climb this to a wide ramp. Go up the ramp a few feet to a horizontal on the left wall. Traverse wildly left and mantel up (bolt, crux) onto a ledge. Continue up the face to a fixed anchor (shared with Stone Cold). 60'
Gear: To 2".
Location: Near the Northway (I-87) Exit 30.
Approach: 1 hr 10 min, difficult
As the name suggests, The Beyond is farther than everything else...farther than King Philips Spring Wall, the Highway Blues Slab, Steve Austin, and The Crown. It's located in a quiet, remote valley southwest of The Crown and has beautiful views of the rocky east-facing flanks of Spotted Mountain and East Dix (now Grace Peak).
The cliff is broken up and wide. The routes are located on the highest section of rock, below and left of a left-rising, stepped overhang that breaks the cliff a third of the way up. The rock here is excellent with that High Peaks coarseness (reminiscent of Wright Peak), and many excellent hidden horizontals for gear.
Directions: From the Amphitheater at the left end of The Crown, walk west 200' out of the canyon 18T 604799 4881041. Bushwhack southwest on a bearing of 245°. Visibility is limited, and, once out of the canyon, the terrain is gently rising, but the hardwood forest is relatively open. After 20 min arrive at a remarkable 40'-tall, egg-shaped boulder perched on a slab near the summit 18T 604328 4880796. Just beyond the boulder, and below you is the cliff. Walk downhill staying skiers left of the cliff until you can break right under the main face 18T 604117 4880716, about 25 min from The Crown.
Land of Snake Believe 5.9 G 80'
Excellent climbing, great gear, impeccable rock. Named for the snakeskins found in just about every horizontal crack on the cliff.
Start: On the left side of the face, just where the terrain rises steeply uphill, is a hidden left-leaning crack that runs nearly the full height of the cliff. Begin 10' right at a smaller left-leaning crack–flake that leads to a 10'-high, right-facing corner that leans 45° to the right.
P1 5.9 G: Go up the left-leaning crack past some blocks to the base of the 45° leaning corner. Step left onto the face and climb straight up a series of left-facing flakes and horizontal cracks to a bulging overlap. Layback up the right side of the bulge (crux) to excellent horizontals. Continue up an easy slab to a comfy bench-seat ledge. There's good gear here, or you can scramble up further to anchor on trees. 80'
Above and Beyond 5.11a G 80'
Another excellent and unlikely line. Harder if you're under 6' 4".
Start: 15' right of Land of Snake Believe below a slab, just right a white pine tree growing next to the cliff.
P1 5.11a G: Make a couple slab moves to gain a good stance on a shelf (small TCUs here). Continue up through a couple overlaps to a shallow left-facing corner. Up this, then reach right to a smaller left-facing corner and mantel up onto the slopers at its top. Make a few face moves up and right to some sidepulls, then go back left and make a hard barn-door move up to jugs (bolt, crux) and good horizontals. Follow a low-angle left-facing corner to the top. 80'
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald 5.8+ PG 470'
Ascends a cerebral line on the face on the buttress right of a huge square scoop at the left side of the Agharta Wall.
Start: From The Cloudsplitter [Route #2, volume 1, page 500], walk left for 5 minutes to a drainage below the right side of the huge square scoop. Ascend to a small vegetated bench at the bottom left side of the face below the flake and buttress on the right side of the scoop.
P1 5.8+ PG: Face climb to a series of three open books on the left side of the face. Go up a handcrack in the third open book to its top (critical yellow Alien placement), then make tricky moves (crux) with gear at your feet to a seam. Traverse to a handcrack leading to a small roof. Break through the roof using the left of two vertical cracks. Move right to a right-leaning crack with two alders. Follow this past loose blocks to an offwidth. Go up the offwidth until it leans left. Belay from a 6" ledge with horizontal cracks just above. 150'
P2 5.7 PG: Continue up the left-leaning offwidth to lower-angle slab with a series of fistcracks. Follow the face to a steeper bulge at about 110'. Climb it and go slightly right above a large tree island to an obvious left-arching bulge with dominant overlaps. 160'
P3 5.7 PG: Break through the bulge on the right and face climb up and left toward an obvious chimney in the upper cliffs. Go through bushes and climb on grungy stone to the bottom of the chimney. Climb the corner up to a small slab to finish. Alternate exit if too wet: step over a corner to cleaner rock on the wall immediately the right of the chimney. Belay from trees above. 160'
Descent: Rappel down along the same route.
Until recently, all of the reported climbing activity in Panther Gorge has been on the Mt. Marcy (west) side of the gorge. These routes are located on the Haystack (east) side of the gorge.
For Whom the Lichen Tolls 5.9 PG 40'
Ascends an overhanging finger- and hand-crack of a free-standing pillar. Recommended music for the climb—For Whom the Bell Tolls by Metallica.
Start: Walk south about 525' south into the gorge from the Phelps Trail/Haystack intersection. The pillar sits slightly above the drainage on the Haystack side. Alternatively, you can see the pillar with the obvious crack on its west face from the base of the Panther Den Wall and traverse to its position 18T 587601 4885228. Begin just right of the southwest corner of the pillar.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb up good edges and jugs along the south side of the pillar to an obvious ledge on the SW corner. Follow a slightly overhanging, left-rising finger- and hand-crack up to a horizontal seam. Continue climbing the continuation of the crack as it rises slightly to the right. Top out on a small summit split by cracks. 40'
All Things Holy 5.7 PG 500'
Great views of the Mt. Marcy side of the gorge. An aesthetic line on excellent rock.
Start: The route is located in the gorge below Little Haystack, on a wall shaped like a "V" (aka the "V Wall"). The left side of the "V" is defined by a deep left-rising gully, and the right side by a right-rising dike-gully. As you descend in the gorge, stay to the right to avoid talus. At the bottom of the gorge, cross the headwaters of Marcy Brook to the Haystack side and ascend up to the base of the route. Expect extremely tight bushwhacking on the steep slope. Just below the "V" go up a weakness in a lower cliffband to gain the base of the cliff 18T 587593 4884764. Go up the dike-gully that forms the right-hand side of the "V" to an obvious left-rising crack in the left-hand face.
P1 5.5 PG: Follow the left-rising crack from the basalt dike around onto the front of the wall. Follow a left-rising fracture through bulges to a small belay terrace at the bottom of a grass island. 90'
P2 5.4 PG: Continue 30' up and left to a right-rising crack. Follow this up bulges of heavily pitted rock. Just before the crack ends, step left over a rounded corner onto the face. Go up the face, then up a crack straight up to trees. Bushwhack 30' through the tree band to the base of a slide and belay from cracks near its base. 180'
P3 5.7 PG: Climb the face up the center of the slide with the crux move on a tier with horizontal fingercracks. Continue to the top where it becomes briefly vegetated. Climb the last section on and left up a handcrack and low-angle slab at the top. Exit to the left and climb a 10'-tall wall with nice cracks to belay at the top. 165'
P4 5.7 PG: Bushwnack 40' up and left to the first face with a vertical crack crossed by two horizontal cracks. Traverse to the crack from the right and climb the vertical crack. Belay from the top at a large tamarack tree. 70'
Descent: Rappel the route, or continue uphill to the Range Trail northwest of Little Haystack.
Haycrack 5.3 PG 150'
This aesthetic route climbs an excellent crack located on the northern of two technical slides joined at the top. The route provides a unique perspective of the Mt. Marcy side of the gorge.
Start: The route is located south in the gorge below Haystack's summit. Due to its position low in the gorge, it is best approached from the Panther Gorge Lean-to. (It's about 20 min south of the V Wall of All Things Holy.) From the lean-to, follow Marcy Brook about 0.5 mile up to 3,375 elevation where a small stream enters from the right. This is near the beaver ponds, which are on the left. Bushwhack just south of the stream to the slides, which you reach after about 200' of elevation gain. Climb several ledges to a right-rising dike that leads to the base of the slab 18T 587429 4884146. If you find yourself at a long, left-rising ramp, then you're on the southern slide.
P1 5.3 PG: Face climb 15' to a handcrack. The serpentine crack offers bomber holds throughout. Follow the crack up the face, over a bulge, to an obvious overlap 80' up (optional belay). Continue up the crack another 30' to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall (stepping down and around a 6'-deep corner) for 40' to the woods. 150'
There has been significant rockfall (around March 2014) above this part of the Beaverview. Be aware of loose debris strewn over the upper ledge and along the base. The trees originally used for belaying at the top of Drumthwacket [Route #3, volume 2, page 147] and Beat the Crowd [Route #4, volume 2, page 147] are gone. While these routes appear relatively undamaged, they have not been climbed to assess their condition. Descent from these routes can be made to climber's right, down a steep ramp, also partially covered in debris.
Livin' on the Edge 5.8- R 100'
Start: On the left edge of the face 52' left of Drumthwacket [Route #3, volume 2, page 147], at a faint, right-rising seam 8' up. It is easier to start slightly higher yet.
P1 5.8- R: Climb along the edge of the face, along a narrow rock ramp, until even with a left-facing corner on the main face. Climb the corner as it rejoins the edge, then go up along another (higher) narrow rock ramp until it dwindles and steepens. Step out onto the face and climb along the edge to the top. 100'
Gear: Brass nuts, micro-cams, and small to medium cams for the top.
This closed project follows a crack line 12' right of Livin' on the Edge and 40' left of Drumthwacket. It goes through two overhangs along the way.
This slab lies above the left side of the Brown Slab. There is a good crop of blueberries along the top.
Directions: Climb anything on the Brown Slabs, then go to the high point of the left side. Thrash upward for about a minute to reach the base of the Connector Slab.
Brown to Blue 5.5 R (5.3 X) 100'
Start: At the low point of the slab.
P1 5.5 R (5.3 X): Climb up the middle of the slab. Near the top, stay right of an overhang. 100'
The route Divide by Zero [Route #10, volume 2, page 156] has been led.
Brownies and Beer 5.9 G 90'
[Between routes #10 and #11, volume 2, page 156]
A good line that would be much better if cleaned.
Start: 50' right of Dividing Line at a vertical crack that fades 40' up. From Dividing Line, go right and up a steep, wooded slope to a vertical crack between two pines growing up against the cliff, 4' apart.
P1 5.9 G: Climb vertical crack to its end at a bulge. Move right to gain another crack system, and climb to the top. 90'
Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot, 2 ea #1, #2 Camalot.
This area is short, steep slab right of and slightly above the bottom of the Green Stamp Walls. It is uphill and left of Unnamed Slab, and about halfway between Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174] and Tablerock Crag [volume 2, page 152].
There are several vertical cracks here.
Little Middle Crack 5.5 PG 50'
Start: Below a short crack which does not reach the bottom or the top of the slab, left of center.
P1 5.5 PG: Climb a crack near the left edge of the slab a few feet, then reach right to the base of a shallow crack, and climb it to its end. Reach up and right to a bushy crack, and climb it to the top of the slab. 50'
This is the first major slab area west of, and roughly the same elevation as Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174]. It's the longest and most continuous section of rock in this area.
The area is named "Unnamed Slab". Go figure.
Unclaimed 5.7 G (5.3 X) 200'
Start: At two tilted blocks near the left side of the slab.
P1 5.3 X: Climb up blocks on the right side of a chocolate-colored slab. Below a large spruce tree, traverse right across a mossy section, then go up to get behind the tree. 100'
P2 5.7 G (5.3 X): Climb a vertical crack through the short steep wall, then up a crack on the slab until it is possible to escape left or move right onto the main slab. Move right, cross a left-facing flake (good pro here) onto a knobby face. Climb good knobs to cleaner slab and merge with Unnamed1 to the top of the slab. 100'
Unnamed 5.7 G (5.4 X) 230'
Yes, the route's name is "Unnamed," hence the name of the slab.
Start: At the lowest point of the slab, near its right end.
P1 5.4 X: Climb up the slab weaving between dirty streaks. Pass through a constriction at a steep part of the slab, then move up grooves toward a tree on a shelf near the right side of the slab. Climb up left of the tree to a stance at the top of a right-rising seam at the base of a short headwall. Presently, there is a small, dead pine tree here. 230'
P2 5.7 G (5.3 X): Climb through the short headwall using good holds and cracks, then move up through a vegetated groove to a cleaner slab above. Move up and right along cleanest rock to the top of the slab. 110'
Baby Steps 5.10a G 30'
Start: 12' left of Stutter Steps, behind an oak tree at the far left end of the Jammer Wall (walk any further left and you fall off the ledge).
P1 5.10a G: Step up left to a flake and climb onto a small ledge. Delicate moves past a horizontal crack and two bolts lead to easy slab. Up and left is a tree anchor (for On the Fence).
Stutter Steps 5.8- PG 90'
[Left of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Might be decent if it were thoroughly cleaned. Dry conditions must prevail.
Start: 15' left of Stand Your Ground at a right-facing corner with a wide crack.
P1 5.8- PG: Climb up corner to a horizontal crack on the main face. Pull up onto a small horizontal stance above this, and move left to a right-facing flake. Climb flake to its end at an overhang. Move right 5' to and break the overhang on knobs, then go up to a crack under a right-rising overlap. Follow this to its end, then continue up and right to join Action Steps for the last 20'. 90'
Action Steps 5.8 G 90'
[Left of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Not a sport route, though the only gear-placements are at the easiest climbing. Bring a .3 and .7 C4, quickdraws, and one long runner.
Start: Same as Stand Your Ground [Route #24, volume 2, page 184].
P1 5.8 G: (V1) Climb to the first ledge 7' up. Step left onto the slab, traverse onto knobs above a small overhang. Follow a vertical line of knobs to a slight bulge, then up easy rock for 10' to a horizontal crack. Climb knobs above the crack onto slab, with one last tricky friction move before reaching a fixed anchor. 90'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3, #0.75 Camalots.
V1 Action Steps Direct 5.9+ PG: Begin on the steep slab 10' left of the Stand Your Ground crack, at a small foot edge just above knee height. Step up on small edges to reach a horizontal crack under a small overhang (5/8" cam possible to the right). Move up, right, up and right again to join the regular route. There is only a single piece of gear on this variation.
Crack of Dawn 5.7 G 175'
[Right of route #32, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 12' right of Little Jam, at the rightmost vertical crack on the Jammer Wall—a hand crack filled with malicious sharp crystals.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack (V1) to its end, then up several squat bands of rock to a sloping wooded ledge. Walk up to the base of the next cliff, at the right end of a rounded ledge at head height, with a fragile tongue of rock hanging below a flake bordering the right end of the ledge. 35'
P2 5.6 G: Get up on the rounded ledge, stab for a good knob, then (V2) move right to reach a flaring vertical crack. Climb this to its end, then step left onto holds below an overhang. Climb through the overhang and up the left edge of the block forming to a stance below a short, dirty face. 50'
P3 5.7 G: Move the belay: go up to the higher of two left-rising ramps, and walk left to its end, left of an oak tree and 10' left of a vertical fingercrack leading up to an A-shaped overhang (the start of Ape X [Route #36, volume 2, page 185]). Climb a right-leaning crack and knobs to a left-rising horizontal. Reach up past this to good holds, then foot-traverse along the horizontal crack to a stance. Follow a right-rising crack to an overlap, and move right around this, and up to a good ledge below a large overhang. 50'
P4 5.5 G: Same as P2 of Ape X: walk right to a block providing access around the roof. Climb vertical crack to its end at a horizontal, step right to a thin vertical crack and climb it to reach a notch leading to the top. 40'
V1 5.4 G: Easier, less intuitive, but much more enjoyable than the crack. Sidepull the crack to reach right-rising holds blending into a rounded ramp. Follow the ramp, then climb easy face to rejoin the standard line above the crack.
V2 5.8 G: This was the original line to reach P3, and dries quicker than the standard route. Traverse left following P4 of Rise & Shine along left-rising cracks until they join a horizontal crack under a small overhang. Reach up over the obstacle to another crack system trending left, and follow it 10' left. Traverse right across a slab, and up to a left-rising ramp. Climb through a short wall above this to the left and of another left-rising ramp to rejoin the standard route at the base of P3.
The route Little Jam [Route #32, volume 2, page 185] is considered hard for the grade.
The route Jug, Tug, and Jam [Route #31, volume 2, page 185] has been cleaned and now gets a star.
Crazy Lace 5.8 G (5.3 R) 95'
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 50' right of and down from Ape X below a small overhang 8' up, which has a right-rising vertical crack running through it.
P1 5.8 G (5.3 R): Climb to and through the overhang via the crack, then follow the crack as it diagonals right, then becomes a horizontal under an overhang. Traverse right along the crack, then up where it once again begins rising right. Break the overhang to reach the left end of a large ledge (escape possible here). Traverse left along a horizontal tips crack 7' to its end, then climb unprotected knobs to a small stance with a thin crack. A few more knobs gain a right-rising crack; follow this up and right until it is possible to step left onto a final slab below an oak tree anchor. 95'
Gear: Standard rack plus 2 ea 3/4" and 1" cams.
Tourist Trap 5.7 R 70'
An attempt at perusing the possibilities on this wall that went bad.
Start: Slightly right of the start of Crazy Lace, at a left-leaning crack at ground level.
P1 5.7 R: Reach directly right (#2 C4 helpful) to good holds on top of a left-facing flake. Climb up to a horizontal, then move right 5' to good knobs leading to another horizontal crack. Traverse right along the crack to its end, then make a committing reach up and right to a left-rising mini-ramp. Climb up ramp to its top and make a tenuous reach to the left end of a thin horizontal crack. Traverse right (V1) to the crack's end (last gear) (V2), then make a long step right and slightly down to sloping footholds. Continue right to reach a line of three sloping knobs, one above the other, just left of a shallow, rounded, right-facing groove-corner. Climb knobs to the refuge of a large, sloping ledge. 70'
V1 (TR) 5.9: At the left end of the crack, climb straight up the short slab above.
V2 (TR) 5.8: Traverse along the crack until it is possible to reach up to a very rounded knob. Hidden crimps near this ease the passage up.
Ambulance Chaser 5.9+ G 70'
Start: Near the right end of the Animal Charm Wall, below a slightly past-vertical, right-facing corner that begins at a ledge 10' up.
P1 5.9+ G: Make a difficult, bouldery move to gain the ledge. Climb the corner to its end at a horizontal crack. Traverse right around a small right-facing corner, then climb it to a stance in a chimney formed by the main wall and a large block on the right. Stem the gap to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 70'
P4 of Gray-Harrison [Route #46, volume 2, page 187] has been extensively cleaned. This route begins in the Land of Overhangs, but the pitch is technically located on the Jammer Wall.
Going to Thee 5.7 G 40'
[Right of route #47, volume 2, page 187]
Better than it looks.
Start: At a crack system above a dirty notch at the top of a dirt mound, 15' right of the Stairway to Heaven [Route #47, volume 2, page 187] face.
P1 5.7 G: Go up a crack system to a tight V-notch in steep rock. Step right to a short, wide crack. Climb up this onto a large block. Top out at the start of End of the Line [Route #48, volume 2, page 187].
Rise & Shine 5.9 PG (5.4 X) 420'
Start: Same as Kissing Pigs [Route #50, volume 2, page 188].
P1 5.9 G: Climb flake and crack to end of flake, then continue up the right-rising crack to a crystal-studded horizontal. Traverse right 6' and up a scruffy bit to a stance below the right end of an overhang, at a left-facing corner. Up the corner, then go around the right edge of an overhang via a good hand- and fist-crack. Climb the crack to its top, and scramble up wooded slope to the base of the next cliff. 90'
P2 5.7 G: Climb into a scoop below an ornate jumble of left- and right-facing flakes. Climb these up and left to a stance below a broken, right-facing corner. Climb corner (V1) to its end at a dirty, sloping ledge. Scramble 50' upslope to good trees. 60'
P3 5.9- PG (5.4 R): Move the belay: At the base of the next cliff, walk right around a large block to belay at a left-rising, narrow ramp, which becomes a right-facing corner. Climb the ramp and corner (good holds on the left face) to the left end of an overhang. Climb through this via a steep hand- and finger-crack to a stance beside an oak tree. Follow a left-rising crack to a narrow ledge below a bulging wall, make an awkward mantel, then move right (blind 1" cam placement) and up to a sloping stance. Climb leftward up onto the right end of a ledge (it is possible to escape left to the base of the Jammer Wall here). Make unprotected moves up a right-rising rail to another sloping stance with a right-rising overhanging wall above. Step up left and use a good right-rising edge (tricky offset brass nut placement critical here) to make a hard mantel, then move up right to find holds and gain easier ground. Climb slab and face up and left to join the top of P1 of Crack of Dawn. 90'
P4 5.8 G: Begin same as Crack of Dawn, at a chest-high rounded ledge, with a rock tongue below a left-facing flake on its right side. Get up on the rounded ledge, make a long reach for a good knob, then move directly left to gain a left-rising crack system. Ascend up and left to the point where the crack system meets a horizontal at a small overhang. Reach up for another horizontal crack, which becomes a left-rising crack system, and follow this as it steepens to its end beneath a large block lying on the right end of a ledge midway up the Animal Charm Wall. 120'
P5 5.8: Same as last pitch of Gray-Harrison [Route #46, volume 2, page 187]: climb a steep fingercrack up a 12'-tall wall to a brushy ledge. Scramble up and right to a deep, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb a thin crack on the outside edge of the corner, up and around onto the face. Go up low-angle, dirty rock to a tree. 60'
V1 5.9+ PG (5.4 X) : This variation (the line of the original ascent) adds 45' to P2 (making the pitch 105'-long). Instead of working up and right to get off the cliff, climb onto an awkward stance below the right edge of bulging wall. Tricky offset brass nut placements protect this move. Rail along a thin crack leading leftward above the bulging orange wall (A tricky-to-place purple C3 useful). Move left until it is possible to pull up onto an easy slab. Climb up to a right-rising flake (last gear), then climb the easy but unprotected triangular face (the "Pyramid") to its top. Walk across or "á cheval" to safety.
Straighten Up 5.8+ G (5.4 R) 90'
Start: Same as the Paris-Harrison [Route #61, volume 2, page 190]. You can reach this position by hiking up the left-rising ramp along the base of the Long Play Wall, about 150' left of Bodhi Tree. Alternatively, rappel from the right end of the Jammer Ledge and walk right 100'. Begin below a right-rising vertical crack that leads to the left edge of a small overhang 10' up, formed by a large block lying on a right-leaning ramp.
P1 5.9 G (5.4 R): Climb the crack to the right-leaning ramp, step up on the block and make a gymnastic move onto a narrower right-leaning ramp. Walk 12' left, down the ramp, to a nice vertical handcrack. Climb the crack to its end, then climb straight up the face above via an ornately-fringed plate (3 bolts). Climb easier rock with some run-out to a fixed anchor (or continue up a scruffy, sloping ledge to reach the base of the Animal Charm Wall near its right end).
There is now a fixed anchor at the end of P1 of Birthday Corner [Route #91, volume 2, page 200].
Caveman Cam 5.7 G 85'
[Right of route #11, volume 2, page 214]
Start: 50' right of Caterpillar Chimney, at a 20' long offwidth crack leading to the left side of an overhanging block.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the offwidth crack to tight alcove below overhang. Go up into the bottomless chimney along the left side of the block, then up stacked blocks to a stance on the right edge of the steep face to the left. Follow a left-rising, narrowing ramp up the edge of the face until it is possible to step left to a right-facing open book. Ascend the book onto an easy, dirty slab, then move left to a shaky shadbush tree to belay. 85'
Gear: A #6 Camalot (or even larger Big Bro) may be desirable, especially if the chockstone has fallen out.
Resperator 5.9 G 90'
Start: 10' right of Caveman Cam, at a fistcrack leading to the right side of an overhanging block.
P1 5.9 G: Climb crack to awkward stance below block. Make an awkward move following a crack right around the block to another stance on the upper slab. Climb up and left, following wide cracks, blocks, and steps to a shaky shadbush belay. 90'
Gear: Cams to 3"; 1 ea #5 Camalot; 2 ea #4 Camalot.
Paul and Tom's Morning Show 5.10+ G 110'
[Between routes #14 and #15, volume 2, page 412]
This route breaks the wonderfully exposed headwall to the right of the Azurite arête with views of the main wall and the valley below. Awaits a clean lead.
Start: 40' right of Azurite on a large ledge with an overhang at eye level.
P1 5.10+ G: Climb around the overhang then straight up weaving left and right through a series of flakes and thin edges to a roof. Around the roof on the left, then straight up a series of finger- and hand-cracks to a spectacular finish onto a ledge. 110'
Location: North of Westport in the Split Rock Wild Forest
Approach: 25 min; easy
The Split Rock Wild Forest is known for the Palisades, the large cliff facing Lake Champlain. The Split Rock Cliff is inland with a much shorter approach, and offers an alternate destination when climbing in this area. This inland cliff is about 350' wide with generally clean, steep rock, in a very quiet, private valley with excellent views of Lake Champlain and some the High Peaks from the top.
So far the routes are concentrated on the left half of the cliff. The right half of the cliff is higher and has potential for many additional routes, but has considerable brittle rock.
There is a dirty, wooded corner right of No Monster that provides 3rd class access to the top of the cliff.
Directions: Park as for Palisades [volume 1, page 141]. Follow the hiking directions past the 6 min fork. At 12 min, just past a subtle ridge in the woods on the left side of the trail, a cairn marks a faint old forest road that curves left 18T 629862 4898732. (From the last intersection, this turnoff is 200' past the third culvert.) Follow the forest road, which becomes obscure, but some cairns mark a gentle uphill route, first through open pine woods, and then through unusual grasslands with scattered trees and rocks. Reach the cliff at 25 min at a striking, unclimbed, razor-thin, left-leaning crack 18T 630224 4898988, which is used as a landmark for the routes. This razor-thin crack is at the lowest point of the cliff.
Watch for poison ivy in the talus below the cliff.
Third Edition 5.7 G 90'
Start: From the razor-thin crack at the lowest point of the cliff, walk 30' up and left on a wide terrace. Begin below the left end of a ledge 10' up with two cedars on it.
P1 5.7 G: Scramble up onto the ledge, then traverse past the cedars to the right end of the ledge. Climb a crack up and right to its end, and then climb straight up to the top. 90'
No Monster 5.5 G 75'
Start: On an arête formed by right-facing corner 30' right and uphill of the razor-thin crack.
P1 5.5 G: Climb easily up the low-angled right side of the arête; when you reach some tree branches and loose looking blocks, step around to the left side and climb a few more feet up, then back right. 75'
Jack's Lament 5.8 TR 75'
Begin 20' right of No Monster at a pile of blocks. Follow a thin vertical crack to a brushy ledge. Step left and follow another thin vertical crack to overhanging orange rock. Move left and up through the overhangs to the top. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree 20' to the right.
Out of the Box 5.9- G (5.7 R) 85'
Start: 30' right of Jack's Lament, just right of the bushy cedar, at the base of a white slab.
P1 5.9- G: Climb up and left across the slab onto the main wall. Climb through a small, low overhang and then up and left (5.7 R) to a nice stance (piton). Follow a thin crack straight up into the large box-like overhang. Exit left out of this (crux) and up to the top. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree just to the right. 85'
Gear: Standard rack plus a #3 Camalot for the overhang.
To The Top 5.9 G 150'
This route provides a high-quality extension to The Plunge or Flake 'n Bake [Routes #9 and #12, volume 2, page 90].
Start: At the large ledge at the top of The Plunge and Flake 'n Bake. Climb either route to access this ledge.
P1 5.7 G: Go up the offwidth crack in the back of a corner to its top 60' up. Scramble 4th class up and left to a very large white pine tree. 75'
P2 5.9 G: Above the pine, make a tricky slab move (5.6), then go easily up and right to a red-colored pillar-like corner. Climb this corner (5.9) to the very top of the cliff. 75'
Edgewater, 5.6 PG (5.3 R) 170'
[Right of route #2, volume 1, page 317]
Extremely slippery when wet, which is most of the time; the rating reflects mostly dry rock conditions. After P2, you can join the normal route, or cross the stream and walk off right.
Start: On rocks just left of where the lowest waterfall terminates. Belay at the edge of the water 20' right of After Irene.
P1 5.3 R: Climb just left of the final small waterfall to a broken slab, then diagonal up and left to a ledge below and left of an usually wet, vegaetated slab. There is an old fixed piton at the belay. 60'
P2 5.6 PG: Step up and left to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the slab above then traverse right to a crack close to the water (often wet). Follow the crack straight up and over a small headwall to belay on a large ledge at the dead cedar, just left of the water. This is the same belay as commonly used after P1 of the ice route. 110'
Variation to Dweezil [Route #42, volume 2, page 51].
V1 Dweezil Extension 5.8 G : Just before the anchor of Dweezil, step left and follow bolts up, then right to a belay left of Diva. Be mindful of rope drag (bring many 2' runners).
There has been some rock alteration on the route Free Ride. On the first pitch, a block pulled out just before the crux; grade unchanged. There are now some precarious, leaning blocks on Lunch Ledge (top of P6); use extreme caution here. Finally, some flakes pulled off the Perverse Traverse (P9), grade change unknown.
[Volume 2, page 278]
With a location next to the now-open Sugarloaf, this cliff is sure to become more popular.
Peach Meat 5.11b G 90'
Great face climbing on excellent, naturally clean stone; sustained. And who doesn't love peach meat?
Start: 10' right of the shoulder-high ceiling at the start of Fritzie's Honor [Route #1, volume 2, page 278], behind a white birch, at a chest-high, left-leaning fingercrack on a shallow ramp.
P1 5.11b G: Use the fingercrack to get established on the face, then climb up to the highest of the easy holds. Make a hard boulder move (crux) to stance on the highest of these holds. Move right and climb a shallow open book to its top, then step right again into another shallow open book. Climb jugs to a tombstone flake, then go over this to a headwall. Go up the right side of the headwall (second crux) to a roof. Finish on easier climbing through two roofs. Fixed anchor at the top. 90'