Last updated: Apr 1, 2015
The following new routes (136) and notes (16) have been compiled for 64 areas. This supplements the information in the second edition of Adirondack Rock. To contribute updates or new routes, simply email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your information.
Note: We are saving some content for the next edition, including first ascent data, cliff and route histories, maps, topos, and cliff photos. However, when reporting new routes, please include this information.
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Click here for the newroutes page that accompanied the first edtion.
Beyond, The (2)
Bikini Atoll (3)
Cedar River Crag (6)
Lake Lila (1)
South Colton (1)
Split Rock Cliff (4)
Wild Pines (1)
Sausalito 5.10d PG 100'
[Between routes #8 and #10, volume 1, page 157]
Climbs the face and small crack between Warpath and Bandito. A little contrived in that you have to purposefully avoid Warpath for gear and holds.
Start: Same as Bandito.
P1 5.10d PG: Climb Bandito past its bolt, then move left and follow a faint crack and face holds to a roof. Over this (crux), then up a crack with a couple horizontals to the fixed anchor of Warpath. 100'
Location: Near the intersection of US 9 and NY 72 (Malfunction Junction), accessed from Exit 30.
Approach: 10 min, easy
Summary: Four tiny walls, very close to the road, with several exploratory routes.
The Boquet Ridge Cliffs are four small cliffs facing away from US 9 on a small ridge. They are short, steep, and offer a few lead routes and some toproping.
Directions: Park on the wide shoulder of US 9, 1.0 mile north of Malfunction Junction, near the utility pole 3316A 606161,4885358 (0 hr 0 min). Walk 40' south of the pole and enter the woods at an opening cleared by surveyors. Walk steeply uphill for a few feet, then follow a gently open valley southeast to the height of land. At 4 min, turn to the right (southwest). At 8 min reach the first, rightmost cliff cleverly named Cliff #1 606117,4885114. Walk left along the base to Cliff #2, Cliff #3, and finally Cliff #4.
This cliff is just left of Cliff #3 and is about 40' tall. On the right end is a series of right-facing corners and a large roof. 20' left of this are a pair of overhanging cracks separated by a mattress-sized block. 20' further left is a steep, left-leaning crack.
Twin Cracks (project)
A closed project of Rhonda and Sabrina. Begin 18' left of On Bee on the left side of a low overhang formed by a mattress-sized block. Go up a crack on the left side of the mattress to the top of the block, then up into a stem box that leads to the top. 30'
On Bee 5.8+ G 35' ★
Start: Near the right end of the cliff, under the left end of the large roof, below a pod 5' up.
P1 5.8+ G: Get onto the pod, then up right-facing flakes to a platform. Step left and climb a crack to the top. 35'
Gear: A large cam (4" or 5") is helpful about 10' up.
This diamond-shaped cliff is 40' tall and separated from Cliff #2 by a tight, steep, wooded gully. At the highest point on the cliff is a system of short, curved cracks which look like "somebody stuck a butter knife into the cliff while it was soft."
Butter Knife (project)
A closed project of Rhonda and Sabrina. Begin 36' left of Journey below a system of right-leaning cracks and slots, and below a shallow, wide crack just below the top of the cliff. Go up the slots and cracks to the wide crack. Go past the wide crack on its left side to the top.
Journey 5.8 G 50'
Start: 10' left of the right end of the cliff (and left of the steep wooded gully that separates Cliff #3 and Cliff #4), below a 5'-tall right-facing corner 5' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb up into the corner, then go left along a long left-rising traverse. Run it out up easier rock to the top. 50'
This cliff is wider and taller than Cliff #1. There is a large right-facing corner on its right end, and a broken up right of that. 20' left of the right-facing corner are some large, right-facing flakes.
Grunt 5.10 TR 40'
Begin 20' left of Loose below a large right-facing flake that goes half-way up the cliff. Go up the flakes via strenuous laybacks and sidepulls and finish up the steep face above.
Loose 5.5 G 35'
Go up 10', then more up and right to scary left-facing, broken flakes.
Start: Near the right end, at a large right-facing corner, the base of which is formed by a 12'-tall tower with P1 5.5 G: Go up 10', then move up and right to scary, left-facing, broken flakes. Follow these to the top. 35'
This is the smallest of the four cliffs, and the first one you reach on the approach. It's 35' tall and very steep. There is a right-facing corner and large roof on its right end.
❏Life's a Beach [Route #1, volume 1, page 198] has been cleaned and an anchor installed, shared with these new routes.
Hang Ten 5.9+ G 65' ★★★
Start: 10' left of Surfs Up below good ledges.
P1 5.9+ G: Go up and right on ledges, then step left and go up steep rock to a left-leaning crack. Follow the left-leaning crack over a bulge (crux), then up a steep face past several horizontals to the top. 65'
Gear: Nuts and cams up to 3".
Surfs Up 5.10d PG 65' ★★★
Start: 10' left of Life's a Beach below a jug 7' up, and a ledge 10' up.
P1 5.10d PG: Gain the ledge, then go straight up on narrow ledges to a bulge split by a left-leaning crack. Go over the bulge at the crack, then go straight up the face (bolt) to another left-leaning crack, move right onto the face past another bolt (crux) to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Hang Ten and Life's a Beach. 65'
Gear: Small cams to #1 Camalot.
Life's a Beach 5.9 PG 60'
[Route #1, volume 1, page 198] More of a face climb with a seam than a fingercrack.
These routes are located on a small wall above The Fin, directly above the route Dorsal Fin [Route #25, volume 1, page 523]. To reach the ledge above The Fin, climb a grungy pitch just right of the start of Something Wicked [Route #18, volume 1, page 520]. Once on the ledge, bushwhack right to the base of the wall. Bushwhacking is easiest if you hug the base of the wall.
There are four cracks on this face, two of which have been climbed.
Descent: To descend from the base of this wall, rappel from a fixed anchor at the top of Affliction [Route #21, volume 1, page 522] with a 70m rope.
Knot Punny 5.10a G 30'
This is the leftmost (and cleanest) of the four cracks on this face. Really fun, but really short.
Start: From the center of the wall, walk left on a left-rising tree ledge to the base of the crack.
P1 5.10a G: Climb the crack to the top. Lower from a cedar. 30'
Lichen Life 5.8 G 40' ★★
The most obvious line when viewed from across the lake, and perhaps the most worthwhile. Steep and sustained for the grade. With some scrubbing this would be a 4-star route (would it not be for the middle-of-nowhere location and grungy approach).
Start: This is the third crack from the left.
P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack to the top. 40'
There's been quite a bit of activity here since the second edition [volume 1, page 150]. The cliff has yielded some excellent, hard routes. Unfortunately, there are no easy warmups.
The cliff is now divided into two sections. The far left end is known as The Amphitheater and is capped by an enormous 25'-deep horizontal roof. The wall is overhanging, stays mostly dry in the rain, and has a shady base, so it's good for hot days. The right end of the cliff is the Main Face. There is a wide terrace that splits the cliff into an upper and lower section. The upper section overhangs 35 degrees and is where the routes are located. The Main Face and terrace stay totally dry in the rain, and it's sunny here in the afternoons.
Directions: There is now a good path to this area, reducing the approach to about 45 min. From the base of Springtime [Route #2, volume 1, page 149], walk away from the cliff on a good path to some open slabs. Turn left and walk through some trees to another open slab area. Follow this south parallel to the highway, down a steep slope, and onto the west side of a beaver swamp. Traverse around the edge ofa the swamp to the south end, then go directly south through a narrow canyon paralleling the Northway. At the other end of the canyon pick up a trail that heads southwest, then west. The trail crosses a seasonal stream, then some open slabs, then meets the stream again at a waterfall. Go up the waterfall and continue west to a narrow, boulder-filled canyon just before the height of land. The Main Face is just above you to the right.
Directions: From the Main Face, walk left along the base of the cliff to a beautiful amphitheater capped by a dramatic, 25'-tall roof.
The Fountainhead 5.11d G 60' ★★★★★
This begs-to-be-climbed line breaks the 20'-deep horizontal roof on its left side. May help to be short. This is the biggest horizontal roof with a free route in the Adirondack Park.
Start: Below the left side of the enormous roof, at a bulging face.
P1 5.11d G: Go up the bulging face to a white boulder jammed under the roof (despite appearances, this boulder is solid). Up this to an amazing roof-crack in an offset corner. Undercling left out over the void with increasing difficulty to the lip of the roof. Break the roof and climb another 6' to a fixed anchor. 60'
Gear: Single set of cams from yellow Alien to #2 Camalot. Once you clip the anchor, place a directional to keep the rope out of the crack.
Judgement Day 5.12b G 80' ★★★★★
This thuggy, gymnastic, technical line breaks through the roof on its right side. Hand tape and a right knee pad help.
Start: On the right side of the enormous roof, just left of a deep, dirty, V-corner.
● P1 5.12b G: Stick clip, then boulder onto the orange face and climb shallow, left-leaning cracks up the overhanging wall to the roof. Rail right 6' to the right side of a chockstone, then make powerful moves up to a layback flake (crux). Layback desperately up the flake to a great jug at its top, then make hard moves left to good holds. Move up to the left side of an overlap, then climb up and right (easier, runout) to a fixed anchor. 80'
Ain't No Thang 5.12a G 70' ★★★★★
An incredible, sustained journey up a black, overhanging wall with a little bit of everything: jugs, heel hooks, jamming, and big moves between crimps. Hand tape (up to your elbows) and a right knee pad help.
Start: Begin on the right side of the amphitheater, just left of where the terrain rises steeply to the right, at a left-rising flake on an overhanging wall.
◉ P1 5.12a G: Follow the rail up and left to where it meets a right-leaning offwidth crack. Go up the offwidth using jammed chockstones to an alcove, then jam straight left using a horizontal handcrack (#1 Camalot). At its end, layback up to a huge jug (crux), then go straight up the overhanging wall to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: 1 ea #1 Camalot. If you really want to sew it up, a #2 and #3 Camalots can also be used.
Second-Hand Lichen 5.8 G 60' ★★
Noteworthy in that it is (by far) the easiest route at the cliff.
Start: 50' from the left end of the most overhanging section of the wall at a left-facing, right-leaning ramp with good cracks in the corner.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the crack in the corner of the ramp to a roof. Step left over the roof and climb another crack to the top of the ramp. (A well-placed piece helps keep the rope out of the crack here.) Continue straight up to the top. Wall left to descend a gully. 60'
Off the Couch 5.13b G 50' ★★★★★
This masterpiece climbs an unlikely sheer wall that overhangs 35 degrees. Three distinct cruxes.
Start: Locate Crown Crack, the left-leaning crack that begins on the terrace that divides the right end of the cliff. Begin 15' left of the crack just left of two flat boulders and below a shallow overlap 7' up.
◉ P1 5.13b G: Stick clip. Undercling up into the overlap, then use sidepulls to gain a good ledge. Move up to the next horizontal and rail left to a good hand jam. Go straight up to a rail, then up to a flake (#0.3 Camalot critical). Go up the crack (shared with Crown Crack) to a ledge. There's a fixed anchor just above. 50'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3 Camalot.
Crown Crack A2 0'
[Route #1, volume 1, page 150]
The Warmup 5.13c A0 45' ★★★★★
Closed project. Another pump-fest up the most overhanging section of The Crown. This one lacks any rests.
Start: 6' right of Crown Crack at an obvious left-leaning layback flake in black rock.
● P1 5.13c A0: Stick clip, then go up the layback flake to its top. Shift right and climb a black streak to a rail. Go up and right along the rail, then straight up to a fixed anchor over the top. 45'
Over The Edge 5.6 G 60'
Start: On the right end of the terrace.
P1 5.6 G: Scramble up boulders to the arête that forms the right end of the wall. Climb the face just right of the arête to the beautiful, open summit area. 60'
This small, 75'-wide canyon is in the same drainage as The Crown, but much further east 605172,4880656. The main cliff is narrow, overhanging, and about 70' tall. Across the canyon is another cliff, mostly dirty, with a single, cleaned swath of excellent stone; the route Jennafactor is here.
Directions: From the waterfall, follow the cliffline left into a gully. Walk up to the head of the gully, over some boulders, and into a tiny canyon. The main cliff is on the right, facing southwest.
Jennafactor 5.7 G 70' ★★
Great holds on this one.
Start: Directly across the canyon from Poster Boy at the base of a cleaned slab.
● P1 5.7 G: Go directly up the slab to a fixed anchor. 70'
Poster Boy 5.10b G 70' ★★★
The first route here, and a good warmup for other routes at The Crown.
Start: In the center of the face below the left end of a left-facing, right-leaning corner that begins 12' up. This leaning corner defines the left edge of the overhanging wall of Stone Cold.
● P1 5.10b G: Make some insecure palm-slapping friction moves to gain the ramp. Go up the ramp to near its top, then step left and climb an overhanging wall to its top. Mantel onto a slab (crux) and up to a fixed anchor at the very top of the wall. 70'
Stone Cold 5.12c G 55' ★★★
A direct route up the smooth, overhanging main wall. Requires powerful pulling on good edges.
Start: 15' right of Poster Boy below the main, overhanging wall, and just left of a dirty depression.
● P1 5.12c G: Mantel up into a scoop below the overhanging wall. Shuffle right, then back left on two rails. From the rails, go straight up to the top of the face, and onto a ledge at the top. Continue up the slab to a fixed anchor shared with The Bionic Woman. 55'
The Bionic Woman 5.10a G 60' ★★
A one-move wonder, but oh, what a move.
Start: On the right side of a blunt, crack-riddled arête, just right of a large tree pasted against the rock 2' above the ground.
P1 5.10a G: Go up and left behind the tree to the arête, and climb this to a wide ramp. Go up the ramp a few feet to a horizontal on the left wall. Traverse wildly left and mantel up (bolt, crux) onto a ledge. Continue up the face to a fixed anchor (shared with Stone Cold). 60'
Gear: To 2".
Location: Near the Northway (I-87) Exit 30.
Approach: 1 hr 10 min, difficult
Summary: Two high-quality climbs in a quiet, remote setting.
As the name suggests, The Beyond is farther than everything else...farther than King Philips Spring Wall, the Highway Blues Slab, Steve Austin, and The Crown. It's located in a quiet, remote valley southwest of The Crown and has beautiful views of the rocky east-facing flanks of Spotted Mountain and East Dix (now Grace Peak).
The cliff is broken up and wide. The routes are located on the highest section of rock, below and left of a left-rising, stepped overhang that breaks the cliff a third of the way up. The rock here is excellent with that High Peaks coarseness (reminiscent of Wright Peak), and many excellent hidden horizontals for gear. There is limited potential for additional routes.
Directions: From the Amphitheater at the left end of The Crown, walk west 200' out of the canyon 604799,4881041. Bushwhack southwest on a bearing of 245°. Visibility is limited, and, once out of the canyon, the terrain is gently rising, but the hardwood forest is relatively open. After 20 min arrive at a remarkable 40'-tall, egg-shaped boulder perched on a slab near the summit 604328,4880796. Just beyond the boulder, and below you is the cliff. Walk downhill staying skiers left of the cliff until you can break right under the main face 604117,4880716, about 25 min from The Crown.
Land of Snake Believe 5.9 G 80' ★★★
Excellent climbing, great gear, impeccable rock. Named for the snakeskins found in just about every horizontal crack on the cliff.
Start: On the left side of the face, just where the terrain rises steeply uphill, is a hidden left-leaning crack that runs nearly the full height of the cliff. Begin 10' right at a smaller left-leaning crack–flake that leads to a 10'-high, right-facing corner that leans 45° to the right.
P1 5.9 G: Go up the left-leaning crack past some blocks to the base of the 45° leaning corner. Step left onto the face and climb straight up a series of left-facing flakes and horizontal cracks to a bulging overlap. Layback up the right side of the bulge (crux) to excellent horizontals. Continue up an easy slab to a comfy bench-seat ledge. There's good gear here, or you can scramble up further to anchor on trees. 80'
Above and Beyond 5.11a G 80' ★★★
Another excellent and unlikely line. Harder if you're under 6' 4".
Start: 15' right of Land of Snake Believe below a slab, just right a white pine tree growing next to the cliff.
P1 5.11a G: Make a couple slab moves to gain a good stance on a shelf (small TCUs here). Continue up through a couple overlaps to a shallow left-facing corner. Up this, then reach right to a smaller left-facing corner and mantel up onto the slopers at its top. Make a few face moves up and right to some sidepulls, then go back left and make a hard barn-door move up to jugs (bolt, crux) and good horizontals. Follow a low-angle left-facing corner to the top. 80'
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald 5.8+ PG 470' ★★★
Ascends a cerebral line on the face on the buttress right of a huge square scoop at the left side of the Agharta Wall.
Start: From The Cloudsplitter [Route #2, volume 1, page 500], walk left for 5 minutes to a drainage below the right side of the huge square scoop. Ascend to a small vegetated bench at the bottom left side of the face below the flake and buttress on the right side of the scoop.
P1 5.8+ PG: Face climb to a series of three open books on the left side of the face. Go up a handcrack in the third open book to its top (#2 Camalot), then make tricky moves (crux) with gear at your feet to a seam (yellow Alien). Traverse to a handcrack leading to a small roof. Break through the roof using the left of two vertical cracks. Move right to a right-leaning crack with two alders. Follow this past loose blocks to an offwidth. Go up the offwidth until it leans left. Traverse right 6' and belay from a 6" ledge with horizontal cracks just above. 150'
P2 5.7 PG: Go back 6' left to the offwidth, then continue up the left-leaning offwidth to lower-angle slab with a series of fistcracks. Follow the face to a steeper bulge at about 110'. Climb it and go slightly right above a large tree island to an obvious left-arching bulge with dominant overlaps. 160'
P3 5.7 PG: Break through the bulge on the right and face climb up and left toward an obvious chimney in the upper cliffs. Go through bushes and climb on grungy stone to the bottom of the chimney. Climb the corner up to a small slab to finish. Alternate exit if too wet: step over a corner to cleaner rock on the wall immediately the right of the chimney. Belay from trees above. 160'
Descent: Rappel down along the same route.
Watery Grave 5.10a TR 170'
Start between Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald and CrazyDog's Halo at a short right-rising ramp on a smooth face with a 1'-deep ceiling 35' up and a splitter fingercrack just above that. Climb the ramp then up face to a stance below the roof. Go up the face and over the roof (crux) to the excellent fingercrack. At the top of the crack, go up an easier face, left to a hanging flake, then up this to join Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald at the scary pointed block just below the offwidth.
CrazyDog's Halo 5.8 PG 500'
This route ascends a series of corners and cracks slightly north of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. It offers incredible views to the north across the Agharta Wall before breaking through the upper cliff near a scary detached block.
Start: From The Cloudsplitter [Route #2, volume 1, page 500], walk left for 5 minutes to a drainage from the face slightly right of the huge square scoop. Ascend to the face to a position 40' right of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald, and below the dominant left-facing corners on the right-hand side of the slab.
P1 5.8 PG: Face climb to the left-facing corners below a small roof. Go up 15' along the corner and then up to a smaller corner. Follow the obvious crack to a small grassy ledge. Avoid an offwidth crack below the roof, and instead climb up and right to a larger grassy ledge below a splitter handcrack. Climb the handcrack to the top of the flakes and traverse right to a crack that widens into a chimney. Exit the chimney before it gets grungy: traverse up and left on good face holds until a foot traverse brings you to a stance below a 1.5" crack and belay. 165'
P2 5.6 PG: Climb a left-rising fingercrack until it peters out. Face climb up and right to an overlap below a large tree island. Clear the overlap and continue 35' through the trees to a spacious terrace below a steep wall with good cracks. 135'
P3 5.7 PG: Climb the steep wall and break through another bushy area to the upper slab. Face climb directly up to an obvious crack in the cliffs (about 50' left of the Agharta chimney). Climb behind a large block to a ledge and traverse left to a left-facing corner with a small chockstone. Climb the corner and face climb to the trees. 200'
Descent: Rappel Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.
Until recently, all of the reported climbing activity in Panther Gorge has been on the Mt. Marcy (west) side of the gorge. These routes are located on the Haystack (east) side of the gorge.
For Whom the Lichen Tolls 5.9 PG 40' ★★★
Ascends an overhanging finger- and hand-crack of a free-standing pillar. Recommended music for the climb—For Whom the Bell Tolls by Metallica.
Start: Walk south about 525' south into the gorge from the Phelps Trail/Haystack intersection. The pillar sits slightly above the drainage on the Haystack side. Alternatively, you can see the pillar with the obvious crack on its west face from the base of the Panther Den Wall and traverse to its position 587601,4885228. Begin just right of the southwest corner of the pillar.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb up good edges and jugs along the south side of the pillar to an obvious ledge on the SW corner. Follow a slightly overhanging, left-rising finger- and hand-crack up to a horizontal seam. Continue climbing the continuation of the crack as it rises slightly to the right. Top out on a small summit split by cracks. 40'
All Things Holy 5.7 PG 505' ★★
Great views of the Mt. Marcy side of the gorge. An aesthetic line on excellent rock.
Start: The route is located in the gorge below Little Haystack, on a wall shaped like a "V" (aka the "V Wall"). The left side of the "V" is defined by a deep left-rising gully, and the right side by a right-rising dike-gully. As you descend in the gorge, stay to the right to avoid talus. At the bottom of the gorge, cross the headwaters of Marcy Brook to the Haystack side and ascend up to the base of the route. Expect extremely tight bushwhacking on the steep slope. Just below the "V" go up a weakness in a lower cliffband to gain the base of the cliff 587593,4884764. Go up the dike-gully that forms the right-hand side of the "V" to an obvious left-rising crack in the left-hand face.
P1 5.5 PG: Follow the left-rising crack from the basalt dike around onto the front of the wall. Follow a left-rising fracture through bulges to a small belay terrace at the bottom of a grass island. 90'
P2 5.4 PG: Continue 30' up and left to a right-rising crack. Follow this up bulges of heavily pitted rock. Just before the crack ends, step left over a rounded corner onto the face. Go up the face, then up a crack straight up to trees. Bushwhack 30' through the tree band to the base of a slide and belay from cracks near its base. 180'
P3 5.7 PG: Climb the face up the center of the slide with the crux move on a tier with horizontal fingercracks. Continue to the top where it becomes briefly vegetated. Climb the last section on and left up a handcrack and low-angle slab at the top. Exit to the left and climb a 10'-tall wall with nice cracks to belay at the top. 165'
P4 5.7 PG: Bushwnack 40' up and left to the first face with a vertical crack crossed by two horizontal cracks. Traverse to the crack from the right and climb the vertical crack. Belay from the top at a large tamarack tree. 70'
Descent: Rappel the route, or continue uphill to the Range Trail northwest of Little Haystack.
Haycrack 5.3 PG 150' ★★
This aesthetic route climbs an excellent crack located on the northern of two technical slides joined at the top. The route provides a unique perspective of the Mt. Marcy side of the gorge.
Start: The route is located south in the gorge below Haystack's summit. Due to its position low in the gorge, it is best approached from the Panther Gorge Lean-to. (It's about 20 min south of the V Wall of All Things Holy.) From the lean-to, follow Marcy Brook about 0.5 mile up to 3,375 elevation where a small stream enters from the right. This is near the beaver ponds, which are on the left. Bushwhack just south of the stream to the slides, which you reach after about 200' of elevation gain. Climb several ledges to a right-rising dike that leads to the base of the slab 587429,4884146. If you find yourself at a long, left-rising ramp, then you're on the southern slide.
P1 5.3 PG: Face climb 15' to a handcrack. The serpentine crack offers bomber holds throughout. Follow the crack up the face, over a bulge, to an obvious overlap 80' up (optional belay). Continue up the crack another 30' to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall (stepping down and around a 6'-deep corner) for 40' to the woods. 150'
❏There has been significant rockfall (around March 2014) above this part of the Beaverview. Be aware of loose debris strewn over the upper ledge and along the base. The trees originally used for belaying at the top of Drumthwacket [Route #3, volume 2, page 147] and Beat the Crowd [Route #4, volume 2, page 147] are gone. While these routes appear relatively undamaged, they have not been climbed to assess their condition. Descent from these routes can be made to climber's right, down a steep ramp, also partially covered in debris.
Livin' on the Edge 5.8- R 100' ★★
Start: On the left edge of the face 52' left of Drumthwacket [Route #3, volume 2, page 147], at a faint, right-rising seam 8' up. It is easier to start slightly higher yet.
P1 5.8- R: Climb along the edge of the face, along a narrow rock ramp, until even with a left-facing corner on the main face. Climb the corner as it rejoins the edge, then go up along another (higher) narrow rock ramp until it dwindles and steepens. Step out onto the face and climb along the edge to the top. 100'
Gear: Brass nuts, micro-cams, and small to medium cams for the top.
This closed project follows a crack line 12' right of Livin' on the Edge and 40' left of Drumthwacket. It goes through two overhangs along the way.
This slab lies above the left side of the Brown Slab. There is a good crop of blueberries along the top.
Directions: Climb anything on the Brown Slabs, then go to the high point of the left side. Thrash upward for about a minute to reach the base of the Connector Slab.
Brown to Blue 5.5 R (5.3 X) 100'
Start: At the low point of the slab.
P1 5.5 R (5.3 X): Climb up the middle of the slab. Near the top, stay right of an overhang. 100'
❏The route Divide by Zero [Route #10, volume 2, page 156] has been led.
Brownies and Beer 5.9 G 90' ★★
[Between routes #10 and #11, volume 2, page 156]
A good line that would be much better if cleaned.
Start: 50' right of Dividing Line at a vertical crack that fades 40' up. From Dividing Line, go right and up a steep, wooded slope to a vertical crack between two pines growing up against the cliff, 4' apart.
P1 5.9 G: Climb vertical crack to its end at a bulge. Move right to gain another crack system, and climb to the top. 90'
Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot, 2 ea #1, #2 Camalot.
❏The variation Everywhere That Man Can Be [Route #23, volume 2, page 158] deserves two stars.
Amid the Flood 5.8- R 85'
[This is up-to-date description, replacing route #22, volume 2, page 157.]
A good line, but with ledge-fall potential.
Start: On the left side of a narrow grassy ledge near the right side of the Firecamp Wall, 10' left of a steep tree gully.
P1 5.8- R: Scramble up a right-facing open book to a stance below an A-shaped overhanging notch at a right-facing corner. Move out onto the face left of the A-shaped notch, and climb through a bulge via a shallow V-groove. Weave up the face utilizing cracks along the way for gear, finishing on the final moves of Seam Ripper. 85'
Fooled Again 5.9 G 90'
Maybe not the best route to simul-climb with heavy packs, as the first ascent party did.
Start: Same as Amid the Flood [Route #22, volume 2, page 157].
P1 5.9 G: Climb the broken corner to a right-leaning, right-facing corner with a pronounced A-shaped overhanging notch. (This notch is directly right of Amid the Flood.) Climb through notch and up the corner to the top. Tree anchor. 90'
This area is short, steep slab right of and slightly above the bottom of the Green Stamp Walls. It is uphill and left of Unnamed Slab, and about halfway between Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174] and Tablerock Crag [volume 2, page 152].
There are several vertical cracks here.
Little Left Crack 5.4 PG 55' ★
Start: Same as Little Middle Crack, at a short slab below a vertical crack 20' right of the left end of this slab.
P1 5.4 PG: Climb up to crack and follow it to its end. Make a tricky move up and very slightly rightward to reach the reappearance of the crack, then climb up easing angled rock to the top. 55'
Little Middle Crack 5.5 PG 50'
Start: Below a short crack which does not reach the bottom or the top of the slab, left of center.
P1 5.5 PG: Climb a crack near the left edge of the slab a few feet, then reach right to the base of a shallow crack, and climb it to its end. Reach up and right to a bushy crack, and climb it to the top of the slab. 50'
Cleanin' Jerk 5.4 X 120'
Start: This is the long, thin slab right of the "Little" climbs. The base is split by a thicket on its right side. Begin at the low point left of the thicket, below a wide, shallow rounded groove.
P1 5.4 X: Climb up through groove onto easier slab above, then to the top. Several loose plates lie askew near the top of the slab. 120'
Brushin' Roulette 5.8 G (5.7 X) 150'
It's a tough decision: cling desperately to the holds you have or clean off the next ones. There is good gear for the hardest moves, but the climbing between it and the easy slab is desperate.
Start: At the base of a long slab above and slightly right of the top of the Cleanin' Jerk slab, below a dual-seam box-notch left of a left-facing corner.
P1 5.8 G (5.7 X): Climb up into the notch, up this to its end at a small overhang. Go up and right onto a steep slab and weave upward, first slightly left, then rightward, to get through the steepest section. Above this, the angle eases and the climbing becomes enjoyable, unprotected 5.4 terrain (a brush-filled crack to the left can be utilized for gear, that is, if you bring a trenching tool). 150'
This is the first major slab area west of, and roughly the same elevation as Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174]. It's the longest and most continuous section of rock in this area.
The area is named "Unnamed Slab". Go figure.
Unclaimed 5.7 G (5.3 X) 200' ★
Start: At two tilted blocks near the left side of the slab.
P1 5.3 X: Climb up blocks on the right side of a chocolate-colored slab. Below a large spruce tree, traverse right across a mossy section, then go up to get behind the tree. 100'
P2 5.7 G (5.3 X): Climb a vertical crack through the short steep wall, then up a crack on the slab until it is possible to escape left or move right onto the main slab. Move right, cross a left-facing flake (good pro here) onto a knobby face. Climb good knobs to cleaner slab and merge with Unnamed1 to the top of the slab. 100'
Unwanted 5.5 G (5.3 X) 200' ★
Start: Below the right corner of a flagstone-like block lying askew on the slab.
P1 5.4 G (5.3 R): Climb up to top of block, then friction up and right to a right-facing corner capped by a triangular boulder. Go to the top of this boulder, step left onto dirty slab, then move up and right on cleaner rock to the base of the headwall at a point where it is broken by a hanging open book (about 16' right of the short vertical crack crux of Unclaimed, and about the same distance left of the crux of Unnamed). 100'
P2 5.5 G (5.3 X): Climb into the hanging open book and climb it its top. Move right to a crack in a small left-facing corner, and climb this to its end. Friction diagonally up and right on the slab (no protection), arching upward in the center of the slab. 100'
Unnamed 5.7 G (5.4 X) 340' ★
Yes, the route's name is "Unnamed," hence the name of the slab.
Start: At the lowest point of the slab, near its right end.
P1 5.4 X: Climb up the slab weaving between dirty streaks. Pass through a constriction at a steep part of the slab, then move up grooves toward a tree on a shelf near the right side of the slab. Climb up left of the tree to a stance at the top of a right-rising seam at the base of a short headwall. Presently, there is a small, dead pine tree here. 230'
P2 5.7 G (5.3 X): Climb through the short headwall using good holds and cracks, then move up through a vegetated groove to a cleaner slab above. Move up and right along cleanest rock to the top of the slab. 110'
There are several low-angle slabs with prominent black streaks right of the second pitch of Leftover [Route #4, volume 2, page 175; the slab is visible above the legend in the photo, volume 2, page 172.] Jay Harrison soloed three lines here (Blackavar, Campion, and Hazel) in 2012 and 2014, ranging from 5.2 to 5.4 with R protection, each about 100' in length. The area is not predicted to be popular.
The Mote in God's Eye 5.8 R (5.3 X) 170'
[Left of route #6, volume 2, page 177]
Raw, dangerous, and intricate adventure climbing. This route pads up the slab underneath the Eyebrow Overhang, then breaks through it at an unlikely locale. P2 has excellent moves with good exposure; if cleaned it may yield more gear. There are several loose blocks, some large, but they can be avoided. It may be possible to avoid the difficult, unprotected opening moves by traversing across the slab from the beginning of H2 Alpine [Route #6, volume 2, page 177].
Start: On a narrow, low tongue of moss-covered slab directly left of the bottom of the gully–ramp that leads up to Blueberry Ledge (the ledge where the "blueberry" routes end—Blueberry Crumble, Madam Blueberry, etc.).
P1 5.8 R (5.3 X): Climb holds hidden in the moss just right of a water-cleared streak, aim for a good hold visible at the top of the steep part of the slab. From there, climb up clean swathe of easy, unprotected slab, then head left toward the right-rising headwall of the Eyebrow Overhang. Reach it 20' below the point where it turns sharply to become a horizontal overhang. This is directly below the upper end of a wide, flaring crack running underneath an overhanging block just above head level. 100'
P2 5.7 R: (V1): Climb up onto the ramp at head level, then make delicate moves up and right around the overhang. Above the block is a rubble-choked crack under another overhanging wall; reach it and follow it back left and slightly down to a stance below a notch in the wall. Climb up through this notch onto a slab, and move up and left to the base of the final headwall. Step up onto a left-rising crack, shuffle left along it a few feet, and make tricky moves to surmount the steepness and reach easy ground. 70'
V1 5.8 R: Friction up the slab to the point where the wall turns to become a horizontal overhang. Climb up the notch into a cave shared by a very large, disconnected block lying at a very frightening angle on the slab. Chimney up and away from this obstacle without using it, then head leftward to a stance under an overhang. Rail left and down along a crack to rejoin the standard route below the uppermost headwall.
Gear: Wire brush, superglue, double set of cams from 0.5" to 4".
I Don't Want No Scrub 5.8 PG 110' ★★
[Between routes #15 and #16, volume 2, page 182]
Three stars if cleaned up. This is a direct line on this section of cliff.
Start: 30' up and right of the start of Solar Grace, 10' left of Never Alone, at a waist-high slab that leads to a small, left-rising overhang.
P1 5.8 PG: Up slab, then through overhang using a thin, left-facing flake. At flake's end, mantle onto a horizontal crack, then climb a knobby face directly above to another horizontal crack. Step up and left on this, climb the thin slab to one more horizontal crack, then join the final moves of Never Alone: climb knobs on face to a ledge with a fixed anchor on an oak tree near the edge. 110'
Gear: Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
Secrets of the Pyramid 5.6 PG 145'
The first pitch is uninspiring, but you can bypass this by climbing the P2 of Rise & Shine. The route finishes on a pyramid-shaped formation.
Start: 12' right of the flake–crack system of P2 of Rise & Shine, at a left-leaning horizontal crack, on the far right side of the Mad Cows Wall.
P1 5.6 PG: Use the crack to gain a left-rising ramp, and follow this to its end at a right-facing corner with a boulder lying askew on the ramp. Move delicately around the boulder and out onto the face, following a right-leaning rail which ends at a good stance below a right-facing corner formed by stacked blocks. Step across leftward along a low-angle slab to a headwall, then continue left and downward onto a brushy, large ledge. Walk left to a point directly below a steep, right-facing corner. 75'
P2 5.6 G: Climb up the corner 4', then foot traverse right to a left-facing flake. Climb flake to its top, then traverse right along a narrow ledge. The ledge sweeps upward, diminishing as it does to become a crack and a steep rail. Follow it to a stance below a final, triangular block (aka The Pyramid), then climb past a bolt to the peak of the formation. Walk across the top edge to reach level ground. 70'
❏The route Little Jam [Route #32, volume 2, page 185] is considered hard for the grade and gets 1 star.
❏The route Jug, Tug, and Jam [Route #31, volume 2, page 185] has been cleaned and now gets a star.
The route On the Fence [Route #17, volume 2, page 182] has been cleaned and is now 5.3 (yes, a two-grade drop in difficulty). It is reported as one of the best pitches of this grade in the park, G, and an excellent first lead.
Goosesteps 5.10a G 40' ★★
Similar to Baby Steps, but slightly easier.
Start: Same as Baby Steps. At a ledge at ground level at the extreme left end of the Jammer Wall.
◉ P1 5.10a G: Walk left along a ledge to knobby face just left of a rounded, right-rising, right-facing corner. Climb knobs to a horizontal crack, then up face, rightward at first, then leftward, then straight up to a ledge with the fixed anchor on an oak tree near the edge. 40'
Gear: #2 Camalot.
Baby Steps 5.10a G 30' ★
Start: 12' left of Stutter Steps, behind an oak tree at the far left end of the Jammer Wall (walk any further left and you fall off the ledge).
◉ P1 5.10a G: Step up left to a flake and climb onto a small ledge. Delicate moves past a horizontal crack and two bolts lead to easy slab. Up and left is a tree anchor (for On the Fence). 30'
Stutter Steps 5.8- PG 90'
[Left of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Might be decent if it were thoroughly cleaned. Dry conditions must prevail.
Start: 15' left of Stand Your Ground at a right-facing corner with a wide crack.
P1 5.8- PG: Climb up corner to a horizontal crack on the main face. Pull up onto a small horizontal stance above this, and move left to a right-facing flake. Climb flake to its end at an overhang. Move right 5' to and break the overhang on knobs, then go up to a crack under a right-rising overlap. Follow this to its end, then continue up and right to join Action Steps for the last 20'. 90'
Action Steps 5.8 G 90' ★★★
[Left of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Not a sport route, though the only gear-placements are at the easiest climbing. Bring a .3 and .7 C4, quickdraws, and one long runner.
Start: Same as Stand Your Ground [Route #24, volume 2, page 184].
◉ P1 5.8 G: (V1) Climb to the first ledge 7' up. Step left onto the slab, traverse onto knobs above a small overhang. Follow a vertical line of knobs to a slight bulge, then up easy rock for 10' to a horizontal crack. Climb knobs above the crack onto slab, with one last tricky friction move before reaching a fixed anchor. 90'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3, #0.75 Camalots.
V1 Action Steps Direct 5.9+ PG: Begin on the steep slab 10' left of the Stand Your Ground crack, at a small foot edge just above knee height. Step up on small edges to reach a horizontal crack under a small overhang (5/8" cam possible to the right). Move up, right, up and right again to join the regular route. There is only a single piece of gear on this variation.
Losing Streak 5.8- R 65'
[Right of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Start: 40' up the ramp right of the start of Stand Your Ground, just right of and above a large oak tree.
P1 5.8- R: Climb the slab along the left edge of a water streak. At the point where the water streak becomes mossy, climb knobs on its left edge to good right-facing side-pulls to reach a good ledge. Climb straight up to the fixed anchor of Stand Your Ground. 65'
Crack of Dawn 5.7 G 175' ★★
[Right of route #32, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 12' right of Little Jam, at the rightmost vertical crack on the Jammer Wall—a hand crack filled with malicious sharp crystals.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack (V1) to its end, then up several squat bands of rock to a sloping wooded ledge. Walk up to the base of the next cliff, at the right end of a rounded ledge at head height, with a fragile tongue of rock hanging below a flake bordering the right end of the ledge. 35'
P2 5.6 G: Get up on the rounded ledge, stab for a good knob, then (V2) move right to reach a flaring vertical crack. Climb this to its end, then step left onto holds below an overhang. Climb through the overhang and up the left edge of the block forming to a stance below a short, dirty face. 50'
P3 5.7 G: Move the belay: go up to the higher of two left-rising ramps, and walk left to its end, left of an oak tree and 10' left of a vertical fingercrack leading up to an A-shaped overhang (the start of Ape X [Route #36, volume 2, page 185]). Climb a right-leaning crack and knobs to a left-rising horizontal. Reach up past this to good holds, then foot-traverse along the horizontal crack to a stance. Follow a right-rising crack to an overlap, and move right around this, and up to a good ledge below a large overhang. 50'
P4 5.5 G: Same as P2 of Ape X: walk right to a block providing access around the roof. Climb vertical crack to its end at a horizontal, step right to a thin vertical crack and climb it to reach a notch leading to the top. 40'
V1 5.4 G: Easier, less intuitive, but much more enjoyable than the crack. Sidepull the crack to reach right-rising holds blending into a rounded ramp. Follow the ramp, then climb easy face to rejoin the standard line above the crack.
V2 5.8 G: This was the original line to reach P3, and dries quicker than the standard route. Traverse left following P4 of Rise & Shine along left-rising cracks until they join a horizontal crack under a small overhang. Reach up over the obstacle to another crack system trending left, and follow it 10' left. Traverse right across a slab, and up to a left-rising ramp. Climb through a short wall above this to the left and of another left-rising ramp to rejoin the standard route at the base of P3.
The Slash 5.11a G 90' ★★★
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Strenuous and demanding with excellent, but fiddly, gear.
Start: 25' right of and down from Ape X, on block on the left-rising ramp, at a right-rising crack that breaks a head-height overhang and rises through a steep face and bulge.
P1 5.11a G: Climb through overhang and continue up the crack, over the bulge to easier climbing. There is a fixed anchor on an oak tree left of the crack. 90'
Gear: Cams from 0.25" to 1.5"; 2 ea #0.5 Camalot; full set of nuts.
Chesty Puller 5.11a G 90' ★★★
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 6' left of Crazy Lace, at an ankle-high horizontal seam below a left-rising overhang at head height. 40' above, the wall bulges significantly.
P1 5.11a G: Climb up onto a sloping ledge under the left-rising overhang. Reach right for a blunt, left-facing flake, swing up and right onto the face above it, and go past a bolt to a good stance. Climb over a small overhang to reach an upward-facing, right-slanting flake, then climb the bulging face to obtain a good stance above it. Go up and slightly left to reach a right-rising crack line (the top of The Slash), and follow it to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 90'
Gear: To 3".
Crazy Lace 5.8 G (5.3 R) 95' ★★
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 50' right of and down from Ape X below a small overhang 8' up, which has a right-rising vertical crack running through it.
P1 5.8 G (5.3 R): Climb to and through the overhang via the crack, then follow the crack as it diagonals right, then becomes a horizontal under an overhang. Traverse right along the crack, then up where it once again begins rising right. Break the overhang to reach the left end of a large ledge (escape possible here). Traverse left along a horizontal tips crack 7' to its end, then climb unprotected knobs to a small stance with a thin crack. A few more knobs gain a right-rising crack (the top of The Slash); follow this up and right until it is possible to step left onto a final slab below an oak tree anchor. 95'
Gear: Standard rack plus 2 ea 3/4" and 1" cams.
Tourist Trap 5.7 PG 170' ★
An attempt at perusing the possibilities on this wall that went bad.
Start: Slightly right of the start of Crazy Lace, at a left-leaning crack at ground level.
P1 5.7 PG: Reach directly right (#2 C4 helpful) to good holds on top of a left-facing flake. Climb up to a horizontal, then move right 5' to good knobs leading to another horizontal crack. Traverse right along the crack to its end, then make a committing reach up and right to a left-rising mini-ramp. Climb up ramp to its top and make a tenuous reach to the left end of a thin horizontal crack. Traverse right (V1) to the crack's end (last gear) (V2), then make a long step right and slightly down to sloping footholds. Continue right to reach a line of three sloping knobs, one above the other, just left of a shallow, rounded, right-facing groove-corner. Climb knobs to the refuge of a large, sloping ledge. 70'
P2 5.5 G: Climb through a notch formed by a right-facing corner on the left and a large block lying on a slab to the right, to gain a ledge below a wide horizontal crack. Traverse left and follow the crack as it sweeps up and leftward. Cross the right-rising crack of The Slash, to another right-rising crack. Step up this crack a short distance, then continue the traverse up and left to reach a blueberry-carpeted ledge at a large flake leaning against a final short wall (Ape X climbs up into the notch on the left side of this flake). Climb up the right-facing corner formed by this flake to the top. 100'
V1 (TR) 5.9: At the left end of the crack, climb straight up the short slab above.
V2 (TR) 5.8: Traverse along the crack until it is possible to reach up to a very rounded knob. Hidden crimps near this ease the passage up.
The Clash 5.11a G 65' ★★★
Overhanging jugs at the start contrast sharply with the tiny crimps that commence thereafter.
Start: At a large incut hold just above head height, 25' left of Ambulance Chaser, behind a large, healthy spruce tree.
P1 5.11a G: Follow jugs to a stance at a wide horizontal crack. Shift slightly left of a short, right-facing flake, then move up past two bolts and a short, exhilarating runout to good holds at a horizontal crack. Continue upward on small knobs to a left-rising, right-facing flake with a shallow, flaring, worthless crack. Follow this up (terrain shared with Tourist Trap) to its end, then step up and right through an obscure rounded notch in the final headwall to gain the large ledge. 65'
Gear: Cams to 0.75", medium and large chocks.
Descent: Hack rightwards through the thicket to reach the anchor above Ambulance Chaser, or climb P2 of Tourist Trap.
Ambulance Chaser 5.9+ G 70' ★★★
Start: Near the right end of the Animal Charm Wall, below a slightly past-vertical, right-facing corner that begins at a ledge 10' up.
P1 5.9+ G: Make a difficult, bouldery move to gain the ledge. Climb the corner to its end at a horizontal crack. Traverse right around a small right-facing corner, then climb it to a stance in a chimney formed by the main wall and a large block on the right. Stem the gap to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 70'
The Gash 5.8 G 70' ★★
Start: 30' right of the right-facing corner of Ambulance Chaser (which begins at a ledge 10' up), the wall turns uphill, below the bottom of a sweeping, bent open book (the open project Crooked Book); then is broken by a deep, steep, dirty gully. Begin 20' left of and down from this gully, below a stepped, thin, left-facing flake left of a left-rising vertical crack system.
P1 5.8 G: Climb a low-angle face between two rocks lying against the bottom of the wall. Move up and right to reach the left-rising crack system. Take the crack system to the tree anchor at the top of Ambulance Chaser. 70'
Gear: Cams to 3"; 2 ea 1"-3" cams.
❏P4 of Gray-Harrison [Route #46, volume 2, page 187] has been extensively cleaned. This route begins in the Land of Overhangs, but the pitch is technically located on the Jammer Wall.
❏The route End of the Line [Route #48, volume 2, page 187] is more like 5.10c.
Going to Thee 5.7 G 40' ★
[Right of route #47, volume 2, page 187]
Better than it looks.
Start: At a crack system above a dirty notch at the top of a dirt mound, 15' right of the Stairway to Heaven [Route #47, volume 2, page 187] face.
P1 5.7 G: Go up a crack system to a tight V-notch in steep rock. Step right to a short, wide crack. Climb up this onto a large block. Top out at the start of End of the Line [Route #48, volume 2, page 187]. 40'
Rise & Shine 5.9 PG (5.4 X) 420' ★★★
This route begins on the TeePee Wall and is threaded through various other walls to ascend the full height of the South Corner Cliff.
Start: Same as Kissing Pigs [Route #50, volume 2, page 188].
P1 5.9 G: Climb flake and crack to end of flake, then continue up the right-rising crack to a crystal-studded horizontal. Traverse right 6' and up a scruffy bit to a stance below the right end of an overhang, at a left-facing corner. Up the corner, then go around the right edge of an overhang via a good hand- and fist-crack. Climb the crack to its top, and scramble up wooded slope to the base of the next cliff. 90'
P2 5.7 G: Climb into a scoop below an ornate jumble of left- and right-facing flakes. Climb these up and left to a stance below a broken, right-facing corner. Climb corner (V1) to its end at a dirty, sloping ledge. Scramble 50' upslope to good trees. 60'
P3 5.9- PG (5.4 R): Move the belay: At the base of the next cliff, walk right around a large block to belay at a left-rising, narrow ramp, which becomes a right-facing corner. Climb the ramp and corner (good holds on the left face) to the left end of an overhang. Climb through this via a steep hand- and finger-crack to a stance beside an oak tree. Follow a left-rising crack to a narrow ledge below a bulging wall, make an awkward mantel, then move right (blind 1" cam placement) and up to a sloping stance. Climb leftward up onto the right end of a ledge (it is possible to escape left to the base of the Jammer Wall here). Make unprotected moves up a right-rising rail to another sloping stance with a right-rising overhanging wall above. Step up left and use a good right-rising edge (tricky offset brass nut placement critical here) to make a hard mantel, then move up right to find holds and gain easier ground. Climb slab and face up and left to join the top of P1 of Crack of Dawn. 90'
P4 5.8 G: Begin same as Crack of Dawn, at a chest-high rounded ledge, with a rock tongue below a left-facing flake on its right side. Get up on the rounded ledge, make a long reach for a good knob, then move directly left to gain a left-rising crack system. Ascend up and left to the point where the crack system meets a horizontal at a small overhang. Reach up for another horizontal crack, which becomes a left-rising crack system, and follow this as it steepens to its end beneath a large block lying on the right end of a ledge midway up the Animal Charm Wall. 120'
P5 5.8: Same as last pitch of Gray-Harrison [Route #46, volume 2, page 187]: climb a steep fingercrack up a 12'-tall wall to a brushy ledge. Scramble up and right to a deep, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb a thin crack on the outside edge of the corner, up and around onto the face. Go up low-angle, dirty rock to a tree. 60'
V1 5.9+ PG ★★★: This variation (the line of the original ascent) adds 45' to P2 (making the pitch 105'-long). Instead of working up and right to get off the cliff, climb onto an awkward stance below the right edge of bulging wall. Tricky offset brass nut placements protect this move. Rail along a thin crack leading leftward above the bulging orange wall (A tricky-to-place purple C3 useful). Move left until it is possible to pull up onto an easy slab. Climb up to a right-rising flake (last gear), then climb the easy triangular face (the "Pyramid", bolt) to its top. Walk across or "á cheval" to safety.
Straighten Up 5.8+ G (5.4 R) 90' ★★
Start: Same as the Paris-Harrison [Route #61, volume 2, page 190]. You can reach this position by hiking up the left-rising ramp along the base of the Long Play Wall, about 150' left of Bodhi Tree. Alternatively, rappel from the right end of the Jammer Ledge and walk right 100'. Begin below a right-rising vertical crack that leads to the left edge of a small overhang 10' up, formed by a large block lying on a right-leaning ramp.
P1 5.9 G (5.4 R): Climb the crack to the right-leaning ramp, step up on the block and make a gymnastic move onto a narrower right-leaning ramp. Walk 12' left, down the ramp, to a nice vertical handcrack. Climb the crack to its end, then climb straight up the face above via an ornately-fringed plate (3 bolts). Climb easier rock with some run-out to a fixed anchor (or continue up a scruffy, sloping ledge to reach the base of the Animal Charm Wall near its right end). 90'
❏There is now a fixed anchor at the end of P1 of Birthday Corner [Route #91, volume 2, page 200].
Caveman Cam 5.7 G 85'
[Right of route #11, volume 2, page 214]
Start: 50' right of Caterpillar Chimney, at a 20' long offwidth crack leading to the left side of an overhanging block.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the offwidth crack to tight alcove below overhang. Go up into the bottomless chimney along the left side of the block, then up stacked blocks to a stance on the right edge of the steep face to the left. Follow a left-rising, narrowing ramp up the edge of the face until it is possible to step left to a right-facing open book. Ascend the book onto an easy, dirty slab, then move left to a shaky shadbush tree to belay. 85'
Gear: A #6 Camalot (or even larger Big Bro) may be desirable, especially if the chockstone has fallen out.
Resperator 5.9 G 90'
Start: 10' right of Caveman Cam, at a fistcrack leading to the right side of an overhanging block.
P1 5.9 G: Climb crack to awkward stance below block. Make an awkward move following a crack right around the block to another stance on the upper slab. Climb up and left, following wide cracks, blocks, and steps to a shaky shadbush belay. 90'
Gear: Cams to 3"; 1 ea #5 Camalot; 2 ea #4 Camalot.
Paul and Tom's Morning Show 5.10+ G 110' ★★★
[Between routes #14 and #15, volume 2, page 412]
This route breaks the wonderfully exposed headwall to the right of the Azurite arête with views of the main wall and the valley below. Awaits a clean lead.
Start: 40' right of Azurite on a large ledge with an overhang at eye level.
P1 5.10+ G: Climb around the overhang then straight up weaving left and right through a series of flakes and thin edges to a roof. Around the roof on the left, then straight up a series of finger- and hand-cracks to a spectacular finish onto a ledge. 110'
Location: North of Westport in the Split Rock Wild Forest
Approach: 25 min; easy
Summary: Large, inland cliff near Lake Champlain with some potential for new routes.
The Split Rock Wild Forest is known for the Palisades, the large cliff facing Lake Champlain. The Split Rock Cliff is inland with a much shorter approach, and offers an alternate destination when climbing in this area. This inland cliff is about 350' wide with generally clean, steep rock, in a very quiet, private valley with excellent views of Lake Champlain and some the High Peaks from the top.
So far the routes are concentrated on the left half of the cliff. The right half of the cliff is higher and has potential for many additional routes, but has considerable brittle rock.
There is a dirty, wooded corner right of No Monster that provides 3rd class access to the top of the cliff.
Be aware that this area is known for melanistic (black-colored) timber rattlesnakes. There's a large population of these little fellas from Westport to Willsboro.
Directions: Park as for Palisades [volume 1, page 141]. Follow the hiking directions past the 6 min fork. At 12 min, just past a subtle ridge in the woods on the left side of the trail, a cairn marks a faint old forest road that curves left 629862,4898732. (From the last intersection, this turnoff is 200' past the third culvert.) Follow the forest road, which becomes obscure, but some cairns mark a gentle uphill route, first through open pine woods, and then through unusual grasslands with scattered trees and rocks. Reach the cliff at 25 min at a striking, unclimbed, razor-thin, left-leaning crack 630224,4898988, which is used as a landmark for the routes. This razor-thin crack is at the lowest point of the cliff.
Watch for poison ivy in the talus below the cliff.
Third Edition 5.7 G 90' ★
Start: From the razor-thin crack at the lowest point of the cliff, walk 30' up and left on a wide terrace. Begin below the left end of a ledge 10' up with two cedars on it.
P1 5.7 G: Scramble up onto the ledge, then traverse past the cedars to the right end of the ledge. Climb a crack up and right to its end, and then climb straight up to the top. 90'
No Monster 5.5 G 75'
Start: On an arête formed by right-facing corner 30' right and uphill of the razor-thin crack.
P1 5.5 G: Climb easily up the low-angled right side of the arête; when you reach some tree branches and loose looking blocks, step around to the left side and climb a few more feet up, then back right. 75'
Jack's Lament 5.8 TR 75' ★
Begin 20' right of No Monster at a pile of blocks. Follow a thin vertical crack to a brushy ledge. Step left and follow another thin vertical crack to overhanging orange rock. Move left and up through the overhangs to the top. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree 20' to the right.
Out of the Box 5.9- G (5.7 R) 85' ★★
Start: 30' right of Jack's Lament, just right of the bushy cedar, at the base of a white slab.
P1 5.9- G: Climb up and left across the slab onto the main wall. Climb through a small, low overhang and then up and left (5.7 R) to a nice stance (piton). Follow a thin crack straight up into the large box-like overhang. Exit left out of this (crux) and up to the top. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree just to the right. 85'
Gear: Standard rack plus a #3 Camalot for the overhang.
To The Top 5.9 G 150' ★★
This route provides a high-quality extension to The Plunge or Flake 'n Bake [Routes #9 and #12, volume 2, page 90].
Start: At the large ledge at the top of The Plunge and Flake 'n Bake. Climb either route to access this ledge.
P1 5.7 G: Go up the offwidth crack in the back of a corner to its top 60' up. Scramble 4th class up and left to a very large white pine tree. 75'
P2 5.9 G: Above the pine, make a tricky slab move (5.6), then go easily up and right to a red-colored pillar-like corner. Climb this corner (5.9) to the very top of the cliff. 75'
Edgewater, 5.6 PG (5.3 R) 170' ★★
[Right of route #2, volume 1, page 317]
Extremely slippery when wet, which is most of the time; the rating reflects mostly dry rock conditions. After P2, you can join the normal route, or cross the stream and walk off right.
Start: On rocks just left of where the lowest waterfall terminates. Belay at the edge of the water 20' right of After Irene.
P1 5.3 R: Climb just left of the final small waterfall to a broken slab, then diagonal up and left to a ledge below and left of an usually wet, vegetated slab. There is an old fixed piton at the belay. 60'
P2 5.6 PG: Step up and left to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the slab above then traverse right to a crack close to the water (often wet). Follow the crack straight up and over a small headwall to belay on a large ledge at the dead cedar, just left of the water. This is the same belay as commonly used after P1 of the ice route. 110'
❏Variation to Dweezil [Route #42, volume 2, page 51].
● V1 Dweezil Extension 5.8 G ★★: Just before the anchor of Dweezil, step left and follow bolts up, then right to a belay left of Diva. Be mindful of rope drag (bring many 2' runners).
❏There has been some rock alteration on the route Free Ride. On the first pitch, a block pulled out just before the crux; grade unchanged. There are now some precarious, leaning blocks on Lunch Ledge (top of P6); use extreme caution here. Finally, some flakes pulled off the Perverse Traverse (P9), grade change unknown.
Soul Confusion 5.10c G 440' ★★★
[Located between routes #14 and #15, volume 2, page 273]
Another full-length route with a clean bottom section. Each pitch is slightly longer than 100', but it can be rappelled with a single 60m rope with care.
Start: Locate a clean slab—one of the rare places where the slab is clean beginning at the ground—between Another Botanical Wonder and Heroes, bisected by a left-facing, vegetated corner. Begin left of the vegetated corner below two bolts that lead to a corner–roof.
P1 5.10a G: Traverse in from left to a crack, then climb slab to the roof. Over this, then up more slab to belay ledge. 110'
P2 5.9+ G: Climb up left to the rightmost of several corners. Go up the corner easily, step left to a small pedestal ledge, then follow a curving horizontal crack to belay ledge. 110'
P3 5.10c G: Step right and climb face to obvious crack which diminishes into a small, curving, right-facing corner. Belay under ceilings. 110'
P4 5.7 G: Climb into corner above belay, then pull spectacularly out onto the slab directly above. Diagonal up left to a line of weaknesses, then back right through the next two overlaps. Go up the final slab to the trees. 110'
Descent: Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. Some of the rappels just make it.
Gear: To 2".
[Volume 2, page 278]
With a location next to the now-open Sugarloaf, excellent rock, and being 2 min off the road, this cliff is sure to become more popular.
Riptide 5.8 G 60' ★★★
Start: Left of the three prominent right-facing corners is a buttress split by a right-rising horizontal crack. Begin below the left end of this crack, below a vertical crack in an open book 10' up.
P1 5.8+ G: Go up the handcrack in the open book to the prominent horizontal crack that splits the buttress. Go straight up past two more horizontal cracks to a fixed anchor. 60'
BLF 5.9 G 85' ★★
Start: 5' left of Fritzie's Honor, just left of the low roofs.
P1 5.9 G: (V1) Stick clip, then climb onto the sloping shelf at the base of main right-facing corner of Fritzie's Honor. Go up the corner 10', then break left around the arête at an obvious flake. Climb the face right of the giant precarious pancake flake, then up a crack in a right-facing corner to its top. Move up and right over a bulge to a fixed anchor shared with Fritzie's Honor. 85'
● V1 Pudding Snack 5.11b G ★★★★: Excellent and devious. Begin 10' to the left at a giant, three-trunked tree, below a jug-ledge at head height. This is below a shallow, smooth, green-stained open book 20' up. Mantel onto the jug-ledge, then up to a good left-facing flake. Move left into the shallow, green-stained open book and climb to its top. Go up and right around a bulge, then join the main route below the giant precarious pancake flake.
Fritzie's Honor 5.9+ G 85' ★★★★
[Route #1, volume 2, page 278]
The original route on the face has been cleaned and equipped, and is now an excellent lead.
Start: Locate the right-rising ledge that splits the right end of the cliff in two. Walk up the ledge to the third right-facing corner that begins above a shoulder-high ceiling.
◉ P1 5.9+ G: From the right end of the ceiling, move up onto a left-rising slab. Follow the slab up and left to the corner. Go up the corner to a right-facing, right-rising, stepped overhang. Step left around the corner to another, more shallow corner, and layback up this to the fixed anchor. 85'
Gear: A few cams to 1".
Peach Meat 5.11b G 85' ★★★★★
Great face climbing on excellent, naturally clean stone; sustained. And who doesn't love peach meat?
Start: 10' right of the shoulder-high ceiling at the start of Fritzie's Honor [Route #1, volume 2, page 278], behind a white birch, at a chest-high, left-leaning fingercrack on a shallow ramp.
● P1 5.11b G: Use the fingercrack to get established on the face, then climb up to the highest of the easy holds. Make a hard boulder move (crux) to stance on the highest of these holds. Move right and climb a shallow open book to its top, then step right again into another shallow open book. Climb jugs to a tombstone flake, then go over this to a headwall. Go up the right side of the headwall (second crux) to a roof. Finish on easier climbing through two roofs. Fixed anchor at the top. 85'
Fruit Cup 5.11a G 85' ★★★
Great moves up clean rock with two distinct cruxes.
Start: 10' right of Peach Meat below a ceiling 10' up that has a small, left-facing offset corner in it.
P1 5.11a G: Stick clip. Go up to the ceiling and reach up to some good holds on the face above. Make a hard move up and left (crux) to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner to its top, then up holds in a green-tinted face (stay just left of a hanging tree). A hard move up and left gains a sloping stance beneath a ceiling. Break the ceiling in the middle (second crux) to reach an orange flake and fixed anchor just above. 85'
Gear: Green Alien, blue TCU, #0.4 Camalot, #1 Camalot, yellow Alien.
Hit Girl 5.11a G 80' ★★★
Start: Walk 30' up and right from Fritzie's Honor on the right-rising ledge that divides the right end of the cliff; begin below a right-facing flake that begins 8' up.
P1 5.11a G: Gain the flake and climb to its top. Rail up and left on a good edge, move up to another rail, then go up and right on flakes and jugs. A hard mantel gains a rounded stance below a headwall. Go up the headwall on tiny crimps and smears (crux) to another rounded stance, then up more easily to a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: A few cams to #0.5 Camalot.
These routes are located on the lower wall—the wall below the right-rising ledge that divides the right end of the cliff.
Clash of the Lichens 5.11b PG 45' ★★
Two consecutive boulder problems on this one. Make sure to clip short on the first bolt to avoid hitting a slab.
Start: Below the right end of a low roof in a bottomless sentry box. This is in the center of some recent rockfall.
P1 5.11a PG: Go up an arête on the left side of the sentry box to the roof. Go up a short, right-facing corner to its top (#3 Camalot goes perfectly in horizontal crack at the top), then up the face to a fixed anchor. 45'
Sloppy Seconds 5.6 G 50'
Start: 150' from the left end of the Main Wall, and roughly 300' right of the Carhartt Wall, on a narrow face with two right-leaning cracks, just left of a right-facing corner. Begin below the right-hand crack.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack to a fixed anchor at the top. 50'
Busta Gutt 5.5 TR 50'
Stem the corner just right of Sloppy Seconds. Staying strictly on the left face goes at 5.10d.
Stable Weather 5.9 G 40' ★★
Start: 300' left of Snake Charmer [Route #12, volume 2, page 45] below a zigzag crack that begins a low ceiling 8' up above orange rock.
P1 5.9 G: Climb the zigzag crack to the top. 40'
❏The route Orchestra [Route #163, volume 1, page 99] has been re-equipped and renamed Born Again. The grade is 5.10b (sport) up to where it logically joins Paralysis. Above this there are two more bolts that add a few moves at a more difficult grade.
❏The P1 and P2 fixed anchors of Freedom Flight [Route #47, volume 1, page 50] have been upgraded.
No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110' ★★★★
Demanding and sustained face climbing that follows the underside of a right-rising roof system.
Start: At the P1 anchor of Freedom Flight [Route #47, volume 1, page 50].
◉ P1 5.11d G: Step right from the belay, climb left up to a short open book, then up this to some good holds on the right. Make a huge move right to an obvious small flake. Continue straight up through a serious of technical side-pulls and smears to the roof (a bit runout here on the easier ground). Pull through the first roof (crux) into a short, right-facing corner, then up to a flake. Undercling right on the flake to a final right-facing corner, and climb this up to a slab. At the last bolt, traverse right to join the last 15' of Freedom Flight to the fixed anchor. 110'
Gear: An optional yellow or green Alien reduces the runout to the roof.
❏The route Anniversary Waltz [Route #2, volume 1, page 356] now has a fixed anchor.
❏The route Rockaholic [Route #42, volume 1, page 302] now has a fixed gear anchor that avoids the junky finish.
❏Variation to Gemini [Route #13, volume 2, page 284].
V1 Enterprise 5.7+ G ★★: Climb the first 15' of Gemini to a left-rising crack. Follow this left around the corner to O'Ryan's Belt. This bypasses the crackless crux move of O'Ryan's Belt and slightly eases the difficulty rating for the whole route. One could also use this as an alternate start to Andromeda.
Solar Wind 5.7 PG 60' ★★
The first move is difficult and unprotected, and a fall here would continue off the ledge; the belayer should be firmly anchored. It is much easier (and protectable) to traverse in from the base of Cosmic Ray.
Start: 10' right of Cosmic Ray [Route #7, volume 2, page 284] at a thin seam that doesn't quite touch down on the ledge.
P1 5.7 PG: Climb the seam, up a small left-facing corner, through a broken, steep section, to a final low-angle face above the end of the seam. Pockets to the right offer good protection for the last moves. 60'
Thunder and Lichen 5.11c G (5.9 R) 85' ★★★★
[Route #22, volume 1, page 192] This project has been meticulously cleaned, and led as a single pitch. The route is well protected once above the horizontal crack 12' up; if you're worried, you can pre-place a #4 Camalot in the horizontal and stick clip it. An excellent, sustained pitch.
Start: 30' left of Rope Burn at a black wall that leads to a left-leaning seam that begins above a wide horizontal crack 12' up. The face on the right of the seam is sparsely dotted with orange lichen.
P1 5.11c G (5.9 R): Climb the black face up to a wide horizontal crack (#4 Camalot), then go up the left-leaning seam (crux) to its top. Mantel onto a sloping stance. Follow a crack over the next bulge to the top of the wall and a fixed anchor. 85'
Gear: Standard rack to 2", plus 1 ea #4 Camalot.
❏The route Alien Umbrella [Route #7, volume 2, page 300] has been led, and is no longer a project. The grade and quality have been confirmed. At 5.11a, this is one of the easier cracks at this cliff.
SLU'zers 5.3+ G 40'
Start: At a right-facing corner 4' right of Sport Climbing is Neither [Route #1, volume 2, page 406].
P1 5.3+ G: Climb up a series of ledges along the right-facing corner to the dominant overhanging ledge to right of two mossy vertical cracks. Continue to the left of the obvious horizontal crack to the top. 40'
Second Shift 5.10c G 80' ★★★
Two short, quality pitches. The upper pitch has great position.
Start: At a right-facing, right-leaning corner with a crack, below the right side of the terrace-ledge (mentioned in the crag description). This is below a large prow that defines the right side of the wall above the ledge, and there's a good ledge at the base of the right-leaning corner.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the crack to its top. Step left and go straight up to a short, right-facing block. Go over this (crux), then rail left and mantel onto the large terrace-ledge. There is a fixed anchor on the ledge. 40'
P2 5.10c G: Layback and face climb up a seam past two bolts to a fixed anchor at the top of the wall. 40'
Gear: Small cams and nuts.
Location: Accessed from NY 74 (between Schroon Lake and Ticondaroga), north of Pharaoh Mountain.
Approach: 2 hr, difficult
Summary: Large, remote cliff with high-quality rock.
Devil's Washdish [Volume 2, page 134] is located in a beautiful and remote setting in the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness. It is a substantial cliff, roughly 200' tall at its highest, and 0.5 mile wide. The rock is generally excellent with a high quartz content yielding many hidden, solid holds. The exceptions are the large, low roofs, which tend to be orange, smooth, and scaly. Surprisingly, there are very few cracks or other natural features for protection. The terrain along the base is easily negotiated and has multi-level terraces used to access the rock.
Directions: The approach involves a 3.5 mile hike, followed by a 30-minute bushwhack through relatively open forest with easy navigation. The hiking distance can be reduced using a canoe.
From the Northway (I-87) Exit 28 (0.0 mile), go east on NY 74 towards Ticondaroga. At 12.6 miles, turn right onto Putts Pond Road (CR 39, marked with a DEC sign that reads "Pharaoh Wilderness, Putnam Pond") and drive to its end at Putnam Pond at 16.2 miles. Enter the Putnam Pond Campground (518.585.7280) and park at the trailhead, just past the boat launch 614807,4854786 at 16.6 miles.
From the trailhead (0.0 mi), follow the yellow-marked trail south along the east shore of Putnam Pond towards Treadway Mountain. The first intersection is with a yellow-marked spur trail on the right used to access the east shore boat landing. Continue straight and reach the second intersection at 1.4 miles. Straight ahead goes to Pharaoh Lake and Grizzle Ocean Lean-to; go right onto the blue-marked trail towards Treadway Mountain and Clear Pond Lean-to. At 1.8 miles reach a third intersection. Straight ahead leads 0.3 miles to the southwest shore; left goes to Treadway Mountain.
You can reach the third intersection by canoe, avoiding about 1.5 miles each way of hiking. Put in at the Putnam Pond State Campground boat launch and paddle to the southwest shore boat landing 613759,4854544. Follow the hiking trail 0.3 miles to the third intersection.
From the third intersection, follow the red-marked trail towards Treadway Mountain. The trail climbs steadily. At 1 hr 30 min the trail switchbacks down into a ravine and crosses a faint stream, then turns left with a yellow-arrow sign pointing the way 611855,4854306. Leave the trail and bushwhack due south following this stream. At the first open, boggy meadow, stay high on the west bank, then leave the drainage 611910,4853728 and contour southwest to the cliff. (The stream continues south, then doglegs west into Devil's Washdish below the cliff; the bushwhacking along this section is not recommended.) At 2 hr arrive at the right end of the cliff 611641,4853357.
One of the major features of the cliff is a huge, smooth, 200'-tall, 80'-wide slab known as the Treadway Face, located left of center on the cliff. It is quite prominent in aerial photography (Bing's "birdseye" images) but is virtually invisible from below due to low roofs. The left side has a single point of access, however, and marks the start of The Devil You Know. Unlike many slabs in the Adirondacks, this one has no exfoliation, and is completely lacking any major features (no corners, cracks, corners, or overlaps).
The Devil You Know 5.10c G 250' ★★★★
Start: On the left side of the Treadway Face 611353,4853432. Walking left along the base of the cliff, you will come to some very large, low, crumbly roofs, which define the bottom of the Treadway Face, hidden above. Walk uphill and left under these roofs to almost the height of the terrain and a small opening onto the slab with several left-leaning flakes.
P1 5.7 G ★★★★: This fantastic pitch can be climbed by itself, as it ends at a fixed anchor (a 70m rope is required to rappel from this anchor). Gain the slab via the left-leaning flakes, then go straight up using fixed protection and ample vertical slots for gear. 130'
● P2 5.1 G: Traverse left along a ledge to a fixed anchor at the left side of the slab. 40'
P3 5.10c ★★★: On the left side of the Treadway Face is a huge, right-facing wall. This pitch climbs a steep crack on this gently-overhanging wall. Step left across the vegetated gully to an alcove at the base of the obvious crack. Climb the fantastic crack past a rightwards dogleg to the top. Tree anchor. 80'
Gear: P1 requires a sparse rack to 2.5". P3 requires a single rack to 3".
Descent: From the top, walk right to the top of the Treadway Face, then continue down and climber's right to a tree on the edge of a right-facing wall. A 60' rappel leads to a terrace. From here you can scramble down climber's right to the base of the cliff.
The right side of the cliff has two beautiful, open clearings at the base, presumably the bombardment zones for falling ice. 30' above this is a terrace that spans nearly the entire right end of the. The routes Lichen Boobies, Rural Juror, and Soul Sacrifice begin from this terrace. Gain the ledge from the left; a couple cairns mark the short gully approach through orange rock.
Rural Juror 5.11b G 70' ★★★★
An exercise in technical stemming on compact, difficult-to-read rock.
Start: Near the left end of the Lichen Boobies terrace is a wide chimney through black rock and capped by a large overhang. Begin 15' left of the chimney below a shallow right-facing corner in light-colored rock.
● P1 5.11b G: Go up the corner to its top, then foot traverse left to a shallow, 5'-high, left-facing corner. Go up the corner, then up the seam to a right-facing corner. Up this to its top, then climb up and left to a fixed anchor. 70'
Soul Sacrifice 5.5 G 100'
This route climbs an attractive, naturally protected corner, then finds an easy, less-attractive way off the cliff. This would make an excellent start to one of the more direct, overhanging finishes.
Start: Left of Lichen Boobies is a large right-facing corner. Scramble up the corner to a high ledge and begin below a left-facing, left-arching corner on the right wall.
P1 5.5 G: Climb a clean crack in the arching corner to its top at an overhanging headwall. Continue up and right for 15' following an open book formed by the main face and the headwall to some cedars, then traverse straight right to the woods. 100'
Lichen Boobies 5.8 PG 70' ★★★
This route ascends a black, naturally-clean, blunt arête. A great warmup.
Start: Gain the terrace that divides the right end of the cliff above the open clearings. Walk right on the terrace past a huge chimney to a large right-facing corner. Begin below the black arête 25' right of the corner.
● P1 5.8 PG: Climb the arête to a large ledge at the top. Fixed anchor. 70'
Secret Agent Man (project)
Closed project. On the right end of the cliff, above a continuation of the Lichen Boobies terrace, is a beautiful, smooth, overhanging, black-streaked face. Climb a left-leaning seam on the left side of this face to its top, then angle up and right to a fixed anchor.
The Future Wall is mentioned [Volume 1, page 252] as having the greatest potential for new routes at Washbowl Pond. Indeed.
The west-facing wall is 130' tall, but the routes stop at a natural breaking point below the dirty, loose upper section. The base of the cliff is open and pleasant, a great place to be.
To set a toprope, walk right and up a broad gully separating the Future Wall from the Banana Belt. Once up the initial section of the gully, walk left to a short wall and follow this steeply downhill, then (skier's) right on ledges above the lower wall. You'll need to make a short rappel to safely reach the anchors.
It's About Time 5.11b G 75' ★★★
A straight-up face climb with great moves and a unique three-finger hole.
Start: 15' left of License to Thrill, below a horizontal handcrack 6' up, and 6' right of a firepit.
◉ P1 5.11b G: Go up past the horizontal crack to a left-rising seam. Follow this to another horizontal break (yellow Alien). Step left and climb straight up to a hole in orange rock. Go up and left to a ledge, then step back right. Continue straight up the wall to a ledge and fixed anchor. 75'
Gear: A yellow Alien (a #0.4 Camalot works also), and an optional second yellow Alien for the top.
License to Thrill 5.12d G 65' ★★★★★
Supreme, intricate, technical face climbing.
Start: Just left of the base of the right-rising ramp of Not Too Steep for my Lichen below a head-high horizontal crack.
● P1 5.12d G: Climb past several horizontal cracks, then up a left-facing edge. Continue straight up the face to a left-rising horizontal crack, then straight up to the top at a fixed anchor. 65'
Not Too Steep for my Lichen 5.12b G 65' ★★★★★
A gorgeous and aesthetic line. It has bigger holds than its neighbor, but is steeper.
Start: On the right side of the wall at a 2'-deep right-rising ramp.
● P1 5.12b G: Walk up right along the ramp (optional #0.5 Camalot), then layback and undercling up left-arching flakes to their top. Make a hard move (crux) to a coarse baseball-shaped hold, then reach right to some jugs. Layback to the top of the face and a fixed anchor. 65'
Blind Stoke 5.11b G 100' ★★★
[Between routes #5 and #6, volume 1, page 163]
A good route with a brief, well-protected, crux on excellent rock. The easier climbing has some subpar rock.
Start: 40' right of the large roofs at a left-leaning crack system in a steep wall.
P1 5.11b G: Climb up to an alcove 10' up. Move left to another crack and up into a smaller, higher alcove. Follow left-leaning seams (crux) to where the angle eases. Go up an easy slab to join Josey Wales [route #5, volume 1, page 163] to the top. Fixed anchor on a tree. 100'
Gear: To 2".
❏The route Tooth & Nail is more like 5.10c/d.
Adirondack Iron 5.10b PG 250' ★★★★
This route is the first to break the beautiful, sheer, streaked wall right of Connecticut Yankee. P2 is especially good.
Start: At an obvious right-leaning groove 30' right of Connecticut Yankee [route #16, volume 2, page 458].
P1 5.9- PG: Climb the groove, which becomes a right-facing corner, past a couple of steep sections to it's top. Mantle onto the excellent ledge, then walk 20' left to a fixed anchor. 100'
◉ P2 5.10b PG: Climb easy terrain up and left to the top of a pillar. Climb up and right to a run-out on easier terrain and then straight up as the wall steepens, aiming for a crack at the skyline. The short crack provides a wild and fitting finish (mandatory #1 Camalot placement). Fixed anchor. 150'
Gear: P1 requires a standard rack to #4 Camalot. P2 requires a #1 Camalot.
Descent: Rappel with a single 70m rope.
Location: South of Piseco Lake just north of Good Luck Mountain, accessed from NY 10.
Approach: 35 min, moderate
Summary: Well-developed cliff with many high-quality, single-pitch, crack, face, and chimney routes.
This cliff sits high on the north shoulder of State Brook Mountain. Facing northwest, Statebrook fills a need for single-pitch cragging in the shade. It's 100' tall and roughly 300' wide, and consists of a collection of beautiful faces split by deep chimneys, slots, and depressions—an unusual geometry for Adirondack cliffs. The deep slots offer more climbing surface, as some of the routes are nestled on the inside walls of these slots.
The rock is mostly excellent with quartz ribs and sections pink bullet-hard rock reminiscent of Lake Lila and Lost Hunters. Like most cliffs, though, there are occasional sections of substandard rock too, and the routes are still new and a little dirty.
Every route has a clip-in style fixed anchor for lowering. These are located on the cliff face, and are not accessible from the top except by rappel. Some routes are designed to be stick-clipped.
The area is relatively compact considering the number of routes here (and potential for more). To simplify organization, the cliff has been divided into sections: the Left End, Biscuit Buttress, Beaver Wall, and the Right End.
The area has been published in an.
Directions: From the intersection of NY 10 and NY 29A (0.0 mile), drive north on NY 10. At 5.8 miles reach a bridge across the West Branch of the Sacandaga River (this is just past the parking for the Lost Crags). At 6.0 miles reach the parking for Good Luck Mountain on the right. At 7.3 miles there is a driveway on the right with a yellow posted sign; this driveway is the only break in a long wire guiderail, and just before the driveway is a green highway mileage marker that reads 10/2205/1043. Park on the west side of the road on the ample shoulder 536444,4791290. The trail to the cliff begins on the west side of the road directly across from the driveway.
If approaching from the north, from the intersection of NY 10 and NY 8, drive south on NY 10 for 10.1 miles, just past a low, red-colored log cabin on the left. Look for the driveway on the left that breaks a wire guiderail, and park on the right shoulder of the road 536444,4791290.
From the road (0 hr 0 min), follow the trail into the woods. At 4 min reach a vague fork in the trail; stay left and intersect an old snowmobile trail. Cross this and follow (what appears to be) an old roadbed to where it fades, at which point the path veers right and crosses a stream. Follow the trail moderately uphill to the cliff at 35 min. The trail reaches the cliff at its left end 535017,4790832 at the route Bowline with a Blow Job Finish.
The Left End contains the cluster of routes where the approach trail meets the cliff.
Only the Toad Knows 5.9 G 25' ☆????
Start: 45' uphill and left of where the trail meets the cliff, and 15' left of the prominent, left-facing corner-flake high on Berly Arête, below a crack that bisects a horizontal crack 20' up.
P1 5.9 G: Climb the crack to a fixed anchor on the left. 25'
Berly Arête 5.9 PG 50' ☆????
This route climbs the prominent left-facing corner-flake at the left end of the cliff.
Start: 6' downhill and right of the arête, just where the terrain rises to the left, below a face with a bolt 12' up.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb the face, then move left to the arête. Follow the arête to a ledge at its top. Go up the face above to a fixed anchor. 50'
Hollies High Step 5.8 G 70' ★★
Start: Just left of where the approach trail meets the cliff at a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling 10' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb the corner through the roof, then follow a crack that widens and snakes up and right into a left-facing open book. There's a fixed anchor on the left wall at the top of the open book. 70'
Bowline with a Blow Job Finish 5.11a G 70' ★★★
A terrific face climb.
Start: Where the approach trail meets the cliff, 6' right of the left-facing corner of Hollies High Step, and 6' left of The Inverted Englishman.
◉ P1 5.11a G: Go straight up the face past several horizontals to a fixed anchor on a ledge. 70'
Gear: #0.5 Camalot.
The Inverted Englishman 5.7+ G 70' ★★★
Start: Below a crack with a tree 40' up, 6' right of Bowline with a Blow Job Finish, and 3' left of a right-facing corner that goes up to a high roof 50' up (the route The Englishman Direct)
P1 5.7+ G: Climb the crack to the tree. Move past the tree on the right. Step right and climb the face left of a flared slot in a roof (The Englishman Direct joins in here) to a ledge. Walk left 12' to a fixed anchor shared with Bowline with a Blow Job Finish. 70'
The Englishman Direct 5.8 G 80'
Start: 3' right of The Inverted Englishman below a right-facing corner that begins 7' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb up into the corner and follow this to a roof 50' up. Break the roof at the flared slot (join The Inverted Englishman here), then up a face to a ledge. Walk left 12' to a fixed anchor shared. 80'
The Perverted Polishman 5.8 G 70' ☆????
Start: Just right of The Englishman Direct.
P1 5.8 G: Go up blocks, then up into a left-facing corner (this corner opposes the right-facing corner of The Englishman Direct forming a stem box). Go up the corner to a roof. Break this on the right via a right-leaning wide crack. Follow this up and right, then left, then straight up to a fixed anchor. 70'
The Priest Kept My Underwear 5.10 PG 80' ★★★
Start: 15' left of a prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney and 15' right of a deep depression (centered on the buttress, in fact).
P1 5.10 PG: Climb up a right-leaning crack to a ledge, then straight up to a roof. Break the roof on its right side following the same crack system up into some orange rock capped by a large roof. Move right and break this roof at an obvious crack. Just above is a fixed anchor on the left wall. 80'
Jennelle and the Terrible Horrible No Good Very Bad Day 5.11 PG 80' ☆????
Start: Right of The Priest Kept My Underwear is a deep, bottom-to-top chimney. Begin on the left wall of the chimney below a large roof.
P1 5.11 PG: Climb up the left wall and break the roof on the left via a crack. Follow the crack to its top, then step right go up a yellow-orange face to a very large roof at the top of the cliff. Break this at a thin crack (about 5' right of where The Priest Kept My Underwear breaks the roof) and continue to a fixed anchor. 80'
This is the buttress defined on its left by the prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney, and on its right side by a deep chimney-gully with log terracing at its base.
The Success of Sully's Bride 5.7+ G 90' ★★
Unusual (for the Adirondacks, anyway) climbing up a wide chimney. Great position and stemming.
Start: Below the right side of the prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney that defines the left side of the Biscuit Buttress.
● P1 5.7+ G: Climb the right-side inside wall of the chimney up through the slot to a fixed anchor. Stay on the outside of the chockstones. 90'
Batman has it in for Robin 5.11 PG 90' ☆????
Start: Same as The Success of Sully's Bride.
P1 5.11 PG: Move up and right onto the face right of the chimney. Up the face to a ledge, then up orange rock to a large roof. Bypass the roof on the left (joining for a moment The Success of Sully's Bride), then move up and right to the arête, around this to the outside face, then up to a fixed anchor shared with Sully's Belay. 90'
Sully's Belay 5.11b PG 90'
Somewhat dirty down low and some poor rock in the orange section. The holds above the roof are good, though.
Start: At a vertical crack 10' right of the prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney.
P1 5.11b PG: Go up the vertical crack, then up the orange face (same as for Batman has it in for Robin). Move up and right into a hanging left-facing corner in the roof. Break the roof on good holds, then go straight up to a fixed anchor shared with Batman has it in for Robin. 90'
Butter My Butt and Call Me a Biscuit 5.8 G 90' ★★
Despite following a wide crack, this is more of a face climb.
Start: 12' right of Sully's Belay below a wide, full-height crack with a chockstone at the bottom.
● P1 5.8 G: Go up past the chockstone to a ledge, then up the wide crack to the top. The route finishes straight up to a fixed anchor, but it's also possible to finish at the Sully's Belay anchor. 90'
Uncle Hal Direct (project)
This open project goes up the face, mossy down low, right of Butter My Butt and Call Me a Buscuit with a large roof at the top.
Uncle Hal's Arête 5.8 PG 70' ☆????
Start: On a small ledge on the left side of the entrance to the deep chimney-gully that defines the right side of the Biscuit Buttress.
P1 5.8 PG: Climb up into a right-arching corner. From its top, step right and go up the inside wall of the chimney-gully to a high fixed anchor above the arête. 70'
Big Bro 5.8 PG 60' ☆????
Start: Go up the log terraces in the chimney-gully to the top of the dirt cone. Begin on the left wall below a roof 10' up.
Climb up the face to the roof, over this, then up the face (stemming as necessary) to a fixed anchor. 60'
This is the tall wall that begins at the log-terraced chimney-gully and extends rightwards to a right-rising, stepped roof system. Just right of this is another deep chimney-slot. The crack and face climbing here is excellent, although the routes are still new and somewhat mossy.
Sully's Success 5.6 G 60' ☆????
Start: The same stance as Big Bro, except facing the right wall.
P1 5.6 G: Climb face to roof, then step right around the roof and follow a crack and flake system to a fixed anchor at the top of the wall. 60'
The Boy Scout Leader Likes Me 5.11a G 80' ★★★
Quality climbing with an out-of-character crux move near the top. You can avoid this by moving left to finish on Sully's Success.
Start: At a large white pitch tree on the right side of the mouth of a chimney-gully that defines the right side of the Biscuit Buttress.
P1 5.11a G: Step right onto the outside face of the cliff and climb a good crack to its top, then up the face past a horizontal crack to a ledge (shared with Sully's Success). Move up and right to a right-leaning crack; up this a few feet, then move left onto the face (crux) and climb this to a horizontal break. Shuffle right, then up to a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3, #0.4, and #2 Camalots; green Alien.
Monsters Inc. 5.10c PG 90' ★
Start: Downhill and right of The Boy Scout Leader Likes Me at a flared crack that begins 8' up.
P1 5.10c PG: Go up the flared crack (crux move down low) to a V-slot, step right to the next crack and climb this discontinuous system straight up the face to a fixed anchor. 90'
Wally Your Finger Smells Like the Beaver 5.10b G 90' ★★★★
Excellent face and crack climbing, with a short section of exceptional pink rock in the middle. A little dirty.
Start: 6' right of Monsters Inc. at a crack that begins at the ground.
Up the crack to a horizontal break. Move up and right 6', then up thin cracks and face with quartz ribs to pretty pink rock and a jug. At the tiny overlap, follow an easier crack straight up to a fixed anchor. 90'
Gary Goes Home Crying 5.9 PG 90' ☆????
Start: At a right-facing corner that leads to a wide crack, 15' right of Wally Your Finger Smells Like the Beaver.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb the arête of the corner to gain the crack. Follow the crack as it widens to a chimney, then into a right-facing corner to a roof. Follow parallel crack on the right side of the roof to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'
Ten Pounds of Penis Between Us 5.9+ PG 90' ☆????
Start: 12' right of Gary Goes Home Crying is a large, protruding nose of rock low on the cliff. Begin below the left side of the nose.
P1 5.9+ PG: Go up the left side of the nose to a ledge on top of the nose. Diagonal up and left on a face to reach a thin crack. Follow this straight up to its top. Finish up the parallel cracks of Gary Goes Home Crying. 90'
Bipolar Express 5.10b R 90' ☆????
Watch for rope drag.
Start: Below the right side of the protruding nose of rock low on the cliff.
P1 5.10b R: Go up the right-facing corner of the nose to a narrow ledge on the left wall. Hand traverse left along the ledge to the outside face of the nose. Go left 6' and climb a thin crack system up the full height of the cliff. 90'
There are two open projects that break through the right-rising, stepped roof that defines the right side of the Beaver Wall. This one breaks through at a triangular slot. Fixed anchor.
This open project begins on two stacked blocks and goes up the face to roof. Break the roof at a thin crack 4' right of the triangular slot. Snake up a discontinuous crack system to the top of the face. Fixed anchor.
This section of cliff begins in the deep Mr. Poopers chimney-slot, and extends all the way to the right end of the cliff.
Mr. Poopers 5.11 PG 50' ☆????
Start: On the left wall just inside the entrance to the chimney-slot that defines the right end of the Beaver Wall.
P1 5.11 PG: Go up the overhanging wall to the left side of a large block hanging over the slot. 50'
Mr. Poopers Backside 5.8 PG 50' ☆????
Start: Deeper into the chimney-slot that defines the right end of the Beaver Wall, 12' up and right of Mr. Poopers below a crack on the left wall.
P1 5.8 PG: Up the crack, then stem up the chimney. Step left and climb the face up to the right side of the large block hanging over the slot. 50'
UFC2 5.9 PG 50' ☆????
Start: To the right of the Mr. Poopers chimney-slot are a number of huge blocks stacked 30' high. Begin on the right side of the chimney-slot opening below a chimney in the blocks 10' up.
P1 5.9 PG: Go up into the chimney, then climb the left rib of the block forming the chimney to its top. Up an orange face past the left end of an overlap. Continue up and right to a fixed anchor. 50'
Snake in the Crack 5.6 PG 50' ☆????
Start: Same as UFC2.
P1 5.6 PG: Go up into the chimney formed by the blocks, then up and right to the top of the stacked blocks. Go up a left-facing open book to a crack. Follow this up and right, then back left to a fixed anchor shared with UFC2. 50'
Girls Have More Fun 5.10 PG 50' ☆????
Start: Same as UFC2.
P1 5.10 PG: Go up the outside face of the stacked blocks past several horizontals to the top of the stacked blocks. Join Snake in the Crack to the top. 50'
Dysphemism 5.8 PG 30' ☆????
Start: 30' right of the Mr. Poopers chimney-slot is another deep depression capped by roofs, and right of this is another buttress. Begin on the left side of this buttress at a thin crack.
P1 5.8 PG: Up the thin crack to two horizontals, move right 5', then climb a crack past a V-groove to a fixed anchor that straddles a crack below a pine tree. 30'
Dysphemism Direct (project)
Open project that goes up the face directly below the crack that you traverse to on Dysphemism.
Evil Twin 5.8 G 20' ☆????
Start: Below an obvious, short, crack that begins 12' up. This is just left of a low roof, 36' right of the deep depression marking the start of Dysphemism, and just before the cliff diminishes to rubble.
P1 5.8 G: Climb to, then straight up the crack to a fixed anchor. 20'
* Variation to Son of Circuitous Shit [Route #5, volume 2, page 234].
V1 Grandson of Circuitous Shit 5.8- PG: Once you leave the chimney, exit right via a horizontal crack, then weave up the face to the next horizontal crack. Exit this crack and go right around the arête on to the upper slabs, straddling the arête. Join the normal route to the top.
Once They Moved Like the Wind 5.9 PG 150' ★★★
[Right of route #6, volume 2, page 389]
The climb has excellent finger locks in deep cracks and is surprisingly better than it appears. With some traffic and a bit of cleaning, this line would be as good as Do Me a Solid.
Start: Twelve feet right of Hart Pump at an obvious, diagonal crack.
P1 5.9 PG: Up the easy crack to a wide section and bush, which you pass on good holds. Continue in a right-rising line to another bush. Climb a short bulge (or move easily left to join the upper crack of Hart Pump, making the overall grade 5.8-) and up to a rippled pink face with a tips crack just to its right. Go up the face (crux), using the widening crack and superb locks. Join Hart Pump a few feet below the top. 150'
Wild Things 5.10b G (5.5 R) 70'
[Between routes #3 and #4, volume 2, page 106]
Follows the left-leaning crack that begins 25' up.
Start: 10' right of Wild Rumpus, at the low point of the terrain.
P1 5.10b G (5.5 R): Work up and right on easy terrain to a large flake resting on top of a ledge beneath a steep, left-leaning crack. Follow the crack through steep terrain and onto a delicate face beneath a large, crescent-shaped arête. Continue up and left between the two walls to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Untamed Stimulation. 70'
Gear: To 3".