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NEW ROUTES

...and other cliff notes

Last updated: Mar 11, 2013

The following new routes (681) and notes (90) have been compiled for 184 areas. This supplements the information in the book. To add new routes, boulder problems, or notes, email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your information.

If you're looking for new bouldering problems, click here.

Be sure to check out the routes at Silver Lake.

Note: We are saving some content for the next edition, including first ascent data, cliff histories, maps, topos, and cliff photos. However, when reporting new routes, please include this information.

Alcatraz (6)
Avalanche Lake (1)
Avalanche Lake: West Face of Mt. Colden (2)
Azure Mountain (1)
Baby Dome (5)
Backwater Wall (9)
Barkeater
Basin Mountain: South Face Amphiteater (2)
Bass Lake Hill Crag (1)
Beaver Brook (1)
Beer Walls
Bike Path Cliff
Buck Mountain
Buck Mountain: Eagle Cliff (8)
Buck Mountain: New Buck (6)
Buck Mountain: Upper Buck (1)
Castle Rock (2)
Cat Mountain: Main Face (1)
Cat Mountain: West Crag (1)
Catamount Mountain (1)
Chapel Pond Gully Cliff (1)
Chapel Pond Gully Cliff: Cheap Date Area (1)
Chapel Pond Gully Cliff: Old Route Area
Chapel Pond Slab (1)
Charcoal Kiln Quarry (9)
Chimney Mountain (3)
Chimney Mountain: True Summit Slabs (3)
Clements Pond Trail
Clements Pond Trail: Fisherman's Wall (2)
Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth
Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth: Lower Tower (1)
Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth: Upper Tower (4)
Cobble Cliff
Courthouse (1)
Crane Mountain: Beaverview Wall (5)
Crane Mountain: Right of Ladder, Left Buttress (2)
Crane Mountain: Right of Ladder, Right Buttress (2)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Belleview Area
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Belleview Area: Bellavista Slab (6)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Belleview Area: Belleview Slab (9)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall:Amphitheater (10)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall:Main Face (14)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Diagonal Ramp Wall (7)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Isobuttress (10)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Above-the-Measles Wall (5)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Below-the-Measles Wall (5)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Lower Measles Wall (9)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Top-O-the-Measles Wall (3)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Upper Measles Wall (9)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Slanting Cracks Wall (2)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Height of Land Wall (3)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Land of Overhangs (11)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Long Play Wall (8)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: TeePee Wall (9)
Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Upper Walls (11)
Crane Mountain: Southern Area: Pinnacle Overlook (1)
Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs: Diagonal Wall (9)
Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs: Left of Ladder (3)
Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs:Dartmouth Wall (10)
Crane Mountain: Tablerock Crag (1)
Crane Mountain: Viewpoint Cliff (10)
Crane Mountain: Wayout Wall (3)
Deadwater
Deadwater Way Left (7)
Deadwater: MT Wall (4)
Dutton Mountain (1)
Eagle Falls (16)
Fish Mountain Crag (4)
Flatrock Mountain (3)
Fly Brook Valley
Fly Brook Valley: Catamount Main Face (1)
Fly Brook Valley: Wardsboro Cliff (4)
Fox Mt Crag (2)
Fun-da-ga-o Cliff (6)
Giant Mountain
Gore Mountain: Paul's Ledge (1)
Green Lake Cliff (7)
Gull Pond (5)
Henderson Cliff (1)
Hitchins Pond (1)
Hoffman Notch
Hoffman Notch: Long Wall (5)
Humble Pie Wall (1)
Hurricane Crag (3)
Ice Cave Mountain (1)
Jewels and Gem (2)
King Wall (2)
Lake Lila (5)
Lake Pleasant Quarry (14)
Little Crow Mountain: Barney Rubble Wall (2)
Little Crow Mountain: Citrus Wall (2)
Lost Hunter's Cliff (5)
Lost T Cliff (23)
Lost T2 Cliff (5)
Lower Washbowl: Concave Wall (2)
Lower Washbowl: Eighth Wall (3)
Lower Washbowl: Lost Arrow Face
Lower Washbowl: Stone Face Rib (2)
McMartin Cliff
McMartin Cliff: Ball Cap (2)
McMartin Cliff: Griffith Wall (10)
McMartin Cliff: Northern Wall (1)
McMartin Cliff: Southern Wall (1)
Meadow Hill Cliff (1)
Middle Settlement Lake (1)
Mineville Slab (2)
Moss Cliff (4)
Moss Lake Slab (2)
Mount Tom Cliff (1)
Noonmark Mountain (1)
Olympic Acres: Polar Soldier Wall (2)
Olympic Acres: Upper Slab (aka Bear Den) (3)
Otter Lake Cliff (10)
Owls Head Lookout (1)
Palisades (3)
Panther Gorge (2)
Peasant Crags: The Citadel (6)
Peasant Crags: The Gateway Crag
Peregrine Pillar Area: Banzai Wall (1)
Pilot Knob: The Brain (1)
Pinnacle Mountain (8)
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff (1)
Pitchoff Ridge Trail Domes: Upper Dome (1)
Poke-O Moonshine: Main Face (2)
Poke-O Moonshine: Slab (1)
Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Fourth Tier (6)
Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Second Tier: Black Market Wall (3)
Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Third Tier (5)
Porter Mountain (3)
Potash Cliff (19)
Pulpit Rock (1)
Rogers Rock: Rogers Slide: Main Face (3)
Santa Clara Tract
Santa Claus Hill (6)
Shanty Cliff (2)
Shanty Cliff: Shanty Sports Arena (1)
Shanty Cliff: Squatter Wall (3)
Sharp Bridge Campground (1)
Shelving Rock
Shelving Rock: Big Wall (8)
Shelving Rock: Carhartt Wall (8)
Shelving Rock: desert shield area (8)
Shelving Rock: Jackass Buttress (6)
Shelving Rock: Main Wall (28)
Shelving Rock: Neanderthal Cave (13)
Shelving Rock: Politico Wall (4)
Sleeping Beauty
Sleeping Beauty: Circus Wall (2)
Sleeping Beauty: Tang Wall (1)
Snowy Mountain
Spanky's Area: Nestle Wall (4)
Spanky's Area: Sunshine City (1)
Spectacle Ponds Cliff
Spectacle Ponds Cliff: Left End
Spectacle Ponds Cliff: Main Section Left (1)
Spectacle Ponds Cliff: Main Section Right (1)
Spider's Web (3)
Spruce Hill Crag (1)
Stewart's Ledge (5)
The Annex (6)
The Honey Pot (aka Green Hill) (1)
The Peasant Crags
Titusville Mountain (3)
Tongue Mountain (9)
Twin Falls Cliff (7)
Tyhphoon Wall: Main Face (4)
Typhoon Wall: Ward Cleaver Buttress (1)
Upper Washbowl (2)
Wallface (3)
West Canada Cliff (1)
West Canada Cliff:The Black Wall (2)
West Mountain: Rods & Guns Wall
West Mountain: Rods & Guns Wall: Main Cliff (17)
West Mountain: Rods and Guns Wall: West End Walls (2)
West Mountain: Rods and Guns Walls: The Slab (2)
West Mountain: Silver Bullet Band (1)
West Mountain: Wave Wall (1)
West Mountain: Whaling Wall (1)
Whitewater Walls (1)
Wright Peak (11)

Eagle Falls

There are many new routes interspersed among the existing routes, requiring new descriptions of the route locations.

 The start of Random Rope should read, "15' right of El Supremo, just right of an arête."

 The start of The Big Donger should read, "At a 10'-high open book, 10' right of Random Rope."

 The start of Good Housekeeping should read, "At a triple-trunked birch tree 8' up and 60' right of the giant boulder that sits beneath the huge roofs of Eagle Buttress, 10' left of a dirty open book, and 20' left of Dobsonfly."

 The start of Seventeen should read, "Upstream from Eagle Buttress is a large pool beneath overhanging rock (the Class Five Buttress). This route is located 150' left of the pool at a narrowing in the river with a small waterfall and 275' right of the giant boulder at Eagle Buttress. Start below a left-facing open book that begins 20' up and whose right wall has pink rock. Just right of (and below) the open book are two triangular ceilings, and there is a small birch 10' up."

 The start of Rolling Stone should read, "10' left of Seventeen, at a crack 6' right of a 4'-wide ceiling 10' up and 15' right of Prey Tell. Another marker 20' to the left is a large arête that begins 20' up, below which are multi-tiered roofs."

 The start of LM should read, "50' right of the triple-trunked birch of Good Housekeeping and 10' right of The Eagle Has Landed, at a handcrack in a left-facing open book capped by a triangular ceiling 12' up."

 The start of Horizontal Fridge should read, "35' left of Puppies in a Sack and 130' right of the triple-trunked birch of Good Housekeeping is an enormous open-book corner whose right wall has large roofs. The first roof, 15' up, is formed by a horizontal, refrigerator-sized orange block split in the middle. The route begins at a shallow left-facing corner below the right end of the orange block, 10' left of Shiver Me Timbers".

 There is no fixed protection on Papa Don't Preach.

 In times of high water or when it's too cold to swim/wade, you can put in a boat at the dam launch site, cross to the cliff side, and follow a trail to the top of the cliff.

 There is a fixed anchor on top of Seventeen.

Camping: [In addition to the camping mentioned on page 581] The utility company that operates the hydro facilities has a very nice summer campground on Soft Maple Flow about 3 miles downriver from the parking. It has car camping, a canoe boat launch, and a nice beach. It's an easy flatwater paddle from here to Eagle Canyon, and you can take out on the cliff-side of the river. Another option, Beaver Camp, has rooms, cabins, campsites, and meals (315.376.2640, Beaver Camp).

The Tower of Babel   5.4   TR   50'   

[Between routes #10 and #11, page 583]

Great climb for beginners and kids, as even the shortest ones can stand on top of the flat tower and feel victorious.

Start: At the base of a free-standing tower at the left end of the overhanging red wall and 25' right of Adsit Arête.

P1 5.4 TR: Climb to the top of the tower, then step left onto the face and finish up Adsit Arête on good incut buckets to the top. 50'

The Cross   5.8   G   60'   

[Between routes #10 and #11, page 583]

Due to the overhanging nature of the wall, this route stays fairly dry in the rain except for the last couple moves. Originally a toprope problem, but not super popular as there is a potential for a nasty pendulum.

Start: In the right-facing corner at the base of The Tower of Babel.

P1 5.8 G: Up the corner to near its top, then traverse right using a prominent horizontal crack on an overhanging orange wall for 30'. At its end, move up over a bulge to a tree. Lower from here, or continue to the top. 60'

El Supremo   5.11c   G   90'   

[Between routes #13 and #14, page 583]

This scenic route climbs the most prominent feature at Eagle Falls—the buttress with huge roofs, Eagle Buttress, ending at a beautiful bare-rock summit. A crimpy crux; considerably harder if you're short.

Start: On the right side of the open rocky area below the roofs of Eagle Buttress and 15' right of the giant boulder, at a right-leaning crack with pods, below the right side of an orange fin of rock that forms a chimney 20' up.

P1 5.11c G: Up the short crack (5.8), then through a brief blocky section with good incut buckets. Work up the orange fin to its top, then make a long move to a hidden edge on the overhanging orange face above the roofs. Crimp up the face (crux) to a fantastic incut ledge, then up easier jugs (5.5) to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

Gear: Draws plus cams 2 ea 0.5".

Dobsonfly   5.7   G   70'   

[Between routes #16 and #17, page 584]

Start: 10' left of Stihl Water and 10' right of the open book mentioned in the start of Good Housekeeping, below a cleaned arête with a ledge 10' up. Start on either side of the arête.

P1 5.7 G: Gain the ledge, then follow the arête (crux) to a large perched block at the top. Over this to another perched block with a fixed anchor on the left. 70'

Gear: To 2", including small cams.

Stihl Water   5.9+   G   80'   

[Between routes #16 and #17, page 584]

Excellent crack and face climbing with a juggy exposed arête thrown in for good measure.

Start: 15' left The Eagle Has Landed at an arête capped by a large square roof 20' up. There is a large flat boulder 10' to the right.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the right side of the arête to the roof, then break the roof on its left side via a good crack. Once positioned above the roof, traverse right and climb the large juggy arête to a good stance. Move left onto the face, then up (crux) to a fingercrack and a corner to its left (V1), which are followed to a fixed anchor at the top. 80'

V1 5.7 G: Step right to the arête (the finish of The Eagle Has Landed) and follow it to that route's fixed anchor.

Gear: Standard rack to 2".

The Eagle Has Landed   5.10d   G   90'   

[Between routes #16 and #17, page 584]

This gem climbs a beautiful, clean, and unlikely orange wall, finishing on an arête with good views of the river.

Start: 10' left of LM below two bottomless left-facing corners capped by roofs 15' up. The trail at the base of the cliff run up against the wall here, and there is a large flat boulder 4' back from the cliff.

P1 5.10d G: (V1) Up the leftmost corner to the roof, then make an intricate traverse right around the second corner (crux) to better holds and up to a prominent 3" horizontal. Work up the face on good edges and flakes to a ceiling, then traverse left following an excellent horizontal crack (no feet) to the arête. Swing around the arête, then climb it to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

V1 5.8 G: The initial crux can be avoided: start on LM, then traverse left onto the face above the horizontal. This reduces the overall difficulty to 5.10b.

Gear: Draws plus 1 ea 3" cam, 1 ea ¾" cam.

Ravenous   5.11a   G   90'   

[Between routes #17 and #18, page 584]

Incredible climbing up a puzzling corner finishing through an exposed series of roofs.

Start: At the toe of the buttress left of Lloyd's of Lowville is a square-roofed alcove below a beautiful right-facing corner that begins 15' up. Begin on the right side of the alcove.

P1 5.11a G: Climb to a good incut ledge below the corner, then up the corner (crux) to its top. Move left onto a face and thankful stance, then work left under a dramatic series of roofs using hidden sidepulls to an exposed perch on the lip of the large roof. Easy climbing up cracks in a headwall leads to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws plus a cams to 3/4".

Lloyd's of Lowville   5.10a   G   90'   

[Between routes #17 and #18, page 584]

Clean, solid rock with exposed positions on an arête. Fantastic; one of the best routes here, although the opening moves are considerably more difficult if you're short. Named for a diner in Lowville.

Start: On the left wall of a large open book, 10' left of Horizontal Fridge, and just uphill and right of some ceilings below a clean orange arête.

P1 5.10a G: A tricky move off the ground leads to a good stance on the face. Work up and left past an undercling pocket (3" cam) to the arête (crux). Up the arête to a good stance, then move right and up a fingercrack. Swing right on jugs to a shallow left-facing corner that is followed to a fixed anchor on a tree. 90'

Gear: Draws, a 3" cam, and a few 1/2" pieces for the top.

Shiver Me Timbers   5.8   G   90'   

[Between routes #18 and #19, page 584]

Perhaps the most obvious line at the cliff—a crack that gradually widens from hands to 10". The roof at mid-height is overcome using the tree; otherwise, it would be much more difficult.

Start: 15' right of Horizontal Fridge below a crack that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack to the roof, then shimmy up the birch tree over the roof. Continue up the outside of the squeeze chimney to the top. 90'

Gear: Surprisingly, gear to 4", with an emphasis on small TCUs.

Lichen or Not   5.11c   G   90'   

Devious face climbing followed by high-quality, steep, finger- and hand-cracks. The route was significantly easier until the key hold broke down low; the route still goes, but now starts in the crack to the left, and the second clip is a hard.

Start: Same as Shiver Me Timbers.

P1 5.11c G: Up Shiver Me Timbers for 5', then traverse right on the delicate face to a series of insecure moves up three left-leaning ramp features to gain a tips crack. Up the tips crack to parallel overhanging cracks, which are followed up a corner to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

Gear: Normal rack to 2.0", with an emphasis on small to finger-sized cams.

Promiscuous Girl   5.12a   G   90'   

[Between routes #18 and #19, page 584]

Sustained, technical arête climbing on immaculate rock. It has been done four (!) different ways.

Start: 5' left of Puppies in a Sack below an arête that forms a right-facing corner.

P1 5.12a G: Starting on the right side of the arête, mantel onto an obvious hold at head height, then climb the overhanging arête (V1) to a good stance at two-thirds height. The climbing eases now—move right, then back up to the arête, finish on good sidepulls on the left to reach a fixed anchor on the right side of the arête. 90'

Gear: Quickdraws

The Tasp   5.9   G   80'   

[Between routes #19 and #20, page 584]

Nice face climbing with a high, exposed roof with a heel hook—a one-move wonder.

Start: 10' right of the large right-facing chimney of Puppies in a Sack below a crack filled with jammed flakes. This is just left of an overhanging orange wall.

P1 5.9 G: Up the flake-filled groove for 10', then traverse right on a narrow ledge to a shallow left-facing corner. Step right out of the corner and climb a pleasantly juggy face to a roof. Out the roof (crux), then up a face to a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Draws plus a 2" cam and #6 nut.

Prey Tell   5.10a   G   100'   

[Between routes #19 and #20, page 584]

An excellent combination of a thin face, an arête, and a steep intricate face.

Start: 40' right of The Tasp and 16' left of Seventeen, at a small arête that leads to the right side of a large triangular roof 20' up. There is a wet, mossy open book corner 1' right of the start.

P1 5.10a G: Up the arête (taking care to avoid the wet, mossy corner) to better holds and a good stance on the right side of the large triangular roof 20' up. Go up the face (crux), then step left and ascend a juggy staircase of holds on the large arête above the triangular roof. Begin up a steep face, make long reaches between good holds, trend toward the left then finish up and right at a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 2".

Analysis Paralysis   5.8   PG   100'

[Replaces route #22, page 584]

Marginal protection, ample vegetation.

Start: Same as Welcome to the Machine.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb to the horizontal, then up the steep face past two sidepull pockets to better holds beneath a fractured crack system 20' up. Move left onto a fern ledge, then up an arête to a 5' triangular roof on the left. Traverse left beneath the roof, then up to a ledge in the main open book corner to the top. 100'

Welcome to the Machine   5.9   PG   90'   

[Between routes #22 and #23, page 584. Perhaps shares part of route #22?]

Good climbing and exposure on the upper section. The bottom section is slightly runout, but the high crux is well-protected. Despite massive cleaning, this route still has a section of questionable rock through an easy section. Named for a Pink Floyd song.

Start: Walk upstream to a wall facing upstream and facing the large pool (the pool beneath the Class Five Buttress). Begin 40' right of Seventeen on a flat boulder, below a right-facing scoop, 6' downhill and left of where a horizontal crack meets the dirt.

P1 5.9 PG: Climb to the horizontal, then up the steep face past two sidepull pockets to better holds beneath a fractured crack system 20' up (there is a fern ledge to the left). Work up the crack system to where the wall becomes steeper (crux), then up to a small ceiling. Move left around the ceiling into a short left-facing corner and follow this to a fixed anchor on a birch tree. 90'

Class Five   5.11c   G   80'   

[Between routes #22 and #23, page 584]

Incredibly exposed, intricate, and puzzling climbing through a roof above a Class V rapid in the river (even in low water, the noise here is substantial). Up to the roof is spectacular 5.9.

Start: At the right end of the cliff is a dominate buttress, horizontally fractured with multi-tiered roofs overlooking a large pool in the river. Begin at a flat ledge at the height of land beneath the roofs. This is down, left, and around the corner from Stacked.

P1 5.11c G: (V1) Walk left on a ledge to short right-facing corner. A crimp move gains the corner. Work up buckets in the overhanging tiers, then layback up to a good stance on the face beneath the huge 7'-deep roof, below and left of an acute left-facing corner in the roof. Chimney up the acute corner, then make a huge move out right (crux) to an excellent horizontal crack at the lip of the roof. Over the roof and onto the face with parallel cracks. Step left to a fixed anchor. 70'

V1 5.6 G: Begin 10' downhill and left below two shallow left-facing corners in black rock. Up the crack in the left-hand corner to a blocky ledge of crumbly black rock beneath the short right-facing corner of the normal route.

Gear: Draws. At the top, a 2" cam protects the second for the move over the roof. V1 requires a 0.75" cam.


Middle Settlement Lake

Deciphering the Dirtyness   5.8+   G   60'   

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 574]

Cool moves; would be 3 stars if cleaned.

Start: In a recessed alcove with a very prominent right-facing corner, about 20 feet right of the prominent roof crack.

P1 5.8+ G: Climb the crack line in the right-facing corner: first over a bulge (sometimes wet) to a ledge, then up to the roof and out left (crux), then up a steep, tricky face to lower angle rock. Belay in shrubbery. 60'


Flatrock Mountain

Directions: Park on NY 28, 1 mile south of the parking area described for Middle Settlement [page 574]. The parking area is on what looks like the old NY 28.

Description: Flatrock Mountain is primarily a bouldering area south of Old Forge on NY 28. The boulders are on the south side of NY 28 (same as the parking area), and are scattered over the northwest side of Flatrock Mountain. There are also some very short cliffbands that run parallel to the ridge which have potential for toprope climbs and highball problems. This area has significant potential, as there are countless boulders scattered through the woods.

The first cliff band now holds some roped climbs in the Corners Area 18T 494690 4834966, which has a faint path that leads to this area from the split-in-half house-sized boulder by the road. This path continues to the top of the first tier of cliff bands where the second and shorter tier can be reached. This section now holds three routes, The Cobbler, Flatrock, and Indirecto. Access the top of the cliff band by walking right and scrambling up a low angle corner.

The Cobbler   5.8   G   30'   

Start: 5' left of Flatrock.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack (hands to fist to cups) to trees.

Gear: To 4".

Flatrock   5.10c   TR   35'   

Start directly below the overhanging buttress and climb this straight on to the lower angle rock and steps at the top.

Indirecto   5.10a   TR   35'   

Begin 7' right of Flatrock and climb the face angling left to join Flatrock at the top.


Tongue Mountain

 Anaconda is now a lead route, and one of the best in the park.

 French Kiss is now a lead route at 5.9+ G, 90', ***.

Gear: 2 ea 1-2".

Baywatch   5.7   G   70'   

[Right of route #6, page 445]

Provides easy access to the Project Wall Ledge.

Start: 10' right of Tartar Control, beneath a short offwidth crack that leads to a conifer on a sloping ledge.

P1 5.7 G: Up the offwidth and across the sloping ledge to the bottom of a steep right-facing corner. Up the corner past two pesky trees to the right end of a large ledge. 70'

Gear: To 4".

Rescue Breathing   5.10b   G   80'   

[Between routes #7 and #8, page 445]

Secure face climbing with a flared fingercrack finish.

Start: Same as Tongue Lashing.

P1 5.10b G: (V1) Move out of the pod at the bottom and into a left-rising crack with a dead tree. Go past the dead tree to a second pod. Hand traverse left along a horizontal to a piton, then face climb a vertical wall to a left-rising crack. Follow the crack to a horizontal dike and step left to a right-rising, flared fingercrack. Up the fingercrack then traverse left to a fixed anchor shared with Taste Buds. 80'

V1 5.10d R: Start 15' to the left at a chest-sized block and beneath an A-framed overhang 10' up. A small cam on the left protects a hard move into the A-frame. Go over the A-frame to a horizontal crack and follow it to the piton on the right.

Crotalusly Challenged   5.9   G   90'   

[Right of route #8, page 445]

Crotalus horridus is the species of timber rattlesnake.

Start: Right end of Project Wall Ledge, 10' right of the pine tree with a fixed anchor.

P1 5.9 G: Up a detached block–flake to a left-rising crack. Follow the crack to a ceiling (crux) that is above a raven's ledge. Continue up the crack to a small tree then traverse left along ledge to a vertical crack. Up the brilliant vertical crack to the top. 90'

Dark Venomous Reality   5.10b   G   100'   

[Between routes #14 and #15, page 446]

Climbs the right margin of the Lakeview Wall. Above the crux, don't pass up the gear opportunities if you want to keep the protection G.

Start: 15' right of Dark Venomous Dreams below a prominent roof 15' up.

P1 5.10b G: Up to the roof then exit left to a crack. Climb the crack, then diagonal across a face and over an overlap (crux). Diagonal up and right past discontinuous cracks to a stance below an overlap. Follow a bulging crack left of the overlap to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: To 1" with an emphasis on small cams and medium nuts.

Snake Free   5.7+   PG   60'   

[Between routes #15 and #16, page 446]

This is the sister route to Forked Tongue, but a bit more feisty.

Start: Just left of the start of Gridlock, at a small tree above the access gully.

P1 5.7+ PG: Protect the bottom moves (crux) then move right along a ledge to a vertical crack. Follow the crack as it curves to the left, then work up and right across beautiful black rock to a short vertical crack in the headwall. Join Gridlock: scramble left up easy slabs to a fixed anchor shared with Forked Tongue. 60'

Gear: To 2".

Areticus Maximus   5.10a   G   90'   

A low crux and a tricky topout. Dries quickly.

Start: At a ledge beneath the 3rd class chimney used to access the upper Lakeview Wall. The ledge begins 8' above the ground.

P1 5.10a G: Go up the chimney a few feet to a narrow ledge on the right. Start up a discontinuous crack that is left of a long arête. Make a crux move into the base of the crack where it is finger-sized. Go out right to the arête which can be climbed directly or on the steep face to the right. Make a long reach to the base of a right-facing flake that is on the left side of the arête. Climb the flake then go back to the arête and climb it to a broken overhang. Traverse left and up to a ledge with a pine tree (the fixed anchor on the ledge is for Colossus). Work up and left to a crack that is left of a higher arête. Follow the crack past an awkward mantel to a fixed anchor at the top of the wall. 90'

Gear: To 1.5"

Colossus of Tongue   5.10a   G   80'   

The opening dihedral is a prominent landmark. The alternate finish in the overhanging, left-facing ceiling is 5.10c.

Start: At the base of the approach to the 3rd class chimney used to access the upper Lakeview Wall.

P1 5.10a G: Scramble 8' onto a ledge at the base of a tall, deep, left-facing dihedral. Climb up a vertical fingercrack on the right wall of the dihedral to a sloping ledge. Step left into the dihedral and climb to a higher ledge, then traverse right to another left-facing corner. Start up the corner and then exit out right onto a sheer face with a 3'-tall alcove beneath a ceiling. Pull over the ceiling on good holds then run it out to a ledge beneath a wall with blocky rock. Move up and left to a horizontal dike. Follow the dike left (loose rock) and reach up to a sloping ledge which is climbed to a fixed anchor on the right. 80'

Kodiak   5.12a   G   40'   

Start: 75' right of Bearclaw and 110' left of the right end of the cliff, beneath an orange, left-facing corner.

P1 5.12a G: Up the corner (harder for short climbers) to a rest on a sloping ledge. Above the ledge is a sheer, overhanging wall with several water-worn rails. The reach past the last rail, to a horizontal crack, is the crux (harder for tall climbers). Finish with a left-facing flake and a fixed anchor shared with Teddy Ruxpin. 40'

Gear: Draws.

Teddy Ruxpin   5.9   G   40'   

Start: 100' left of the right end of the cliff, at a left-facing corner that starts 10' up.

P1 5.9 G: Up easy rock is climbed to the corner, then up the corner to a ledge on the right. Go up a vertical crack and step left to a fixed anchor shared with Kodiak. 40'

Gear: Draws plus a 1"-2" cam.


Stewart's Ledge

 It should be noted that the cliff has old hardware and poorly-configured fixed anchors on most of the routes.

 The third bolt on Lithium is sketchy and needs replacement.

Eight Shit   5.8   G   40'

Start: 40' right of The Entertainer [Route #13, page 438], just right of a gully and 20' above the trail.

P1 5.8 G: Scramble to uneven ledge at base of crack–corner. Climb crack to next ledge, pull up and move right to giant flake. Climb flake to top. 40'

Dryer Weather   5.6   G   40'

[Right of route #18, page 440]

Provides an easy way to the top of the cliff.

Start: At the chimney right of Pine Tree Crack.

P1 5.6 G: Up easy terrain to the overhang with nice moves through double crack above. 40'

Indi's Arête   5.9   G   45'   

Harder if short.

Start: Same as Dryer Weather. Scramble right across the gully to a boulder move with a bolt. Go up to a ledge then step left to the edge of the fin and follow it to a fixed anchor at the top. 45'

 Variation to Revolver [Route #5, page 437].

V1 5.8 G: Provides a nice 5.8 lead to get to the anchors for the harder routes on this wall. After the first bolt, step left to the crack system, up this to a ledge, then step right to rejoin Revolver at the flared crack.

 Variation to The Curley Shuffle [Route #3, page 437].

V1 Booby Trap 5.7 G: Continue up the initial crack past a bulge (crux) to a small tree, then up easy terrain to the top.


Buck Mountain

 It should be mentioned that numerous routes have fixed protection next to protectable cracks and should not serve as an example for placing fixed protection in the Adirondack Park.


Ice Cave Mountain

Day of a Thousand Disasters   5.6+   G   35'   

[Left of route #1, page 572]

Start: 50' uphill and left of Team America, below a clean, left-leaning fingercrack that starts above a blocky ledge 5' up.

P1 5.6+ G: Climb the blocks and crack to the top. 35'


Olympic Acres: Polar Soldier Wall

 The web of mountain bike trails used to approach to the Polar Soldier Wall are better marked with numbers. From the parking follow trail #19 to an intersection, go left on trail #18, right on #17, left on #17 (unmarked, but still #17), right on #17, then go 60 paces to a sling at base of tree on the left (also a cairn here sometimes). Follow the cairned path uphill to the base of the cliff.

Out with the Boyz   5.10d   G   110'   

Start: 50' left of Crime, Fools, and Treasure [Route #1, page 342] at an open book corner with a small triangular ledge 5' up, and below a left-curving crack.

P1 5.10d G: Climb the left-curving crack through a V-slot to twin cracks. Up these to a ledge, then step right to a fixed anchor. 50'

P2 5.10b G: Step left to a V-slot. Go up the V-slot, then up lower-angled rock to a fixed anchor on a tree. 60'

Hipster Handbook   5.10b   G   35'   

A good selection of everything from finger locks to fist jams.

Start: As you approach the Polar Soldier Wall, bear left to a short cliffband 50' downhill and left of the lowest point on the main wall (where the Polar Soldier ice climb is located). Begin on a ledge with a flat boulder below an obvious crack in a left-facing open book corner, 20' left of the right end of this cliff.

P1 5.10b G: Up the open book to a 5' roof. Jam over this to a fixed anchor. 35'


Olympic Acres: Upper Slab (aka Bear Den)

 This cliff should be renamed Bear Den, as it sits on Bear Den Mountain. There are several trails to a lookout at the top of Bear Den; however, to reach the base, follow the directions given in the book. There is a good herd path to the cliff now. (Note: After Irene in 2011, this path is now heavily obscured.)

 The construction projects on Whiteface have ended, and now there's an official DEC trailhead at the Kids Kampus (Easy Acres and Bear Den). So, park as described in the book, and look for the new DEC trailhead sign.

 Bronze has been cleaned and an anchor installed at the top, shared with Silver. Bronze is 5.9+, and, with the addition of a bolt, Silver is 5.10d G. Both routes are high quality.

Berry Good   5.10a   G (5.7 R)   290'   

[Left of route #2, page 343]

An outstanding second pitch that climbs a naturally clean, black water streak. P1 is good, but has a long runout that can be avoided by climbing P1 of Bear Necessities.

Start: Same as Bear Necessities.

P1 5.9 G (5.7 R): Mantel onto a ledge, then work up and left to a fern ledge. From the ledge, move up to the right-rising "J" crack and climb it to its top (crux) to a series of good flakes and ledges. Continue straight up the slab (runout) to a bolt, then step left to a tree ledge. 100'

P2 5.10a G : Move up to the top of a flake, then step left onto the face. Work up and left (crux) to the black water streak, then straight up wonderful knobs to a great belay station on a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 110'

P3 5.6 G (5.1 R): Straight up the unprotected slab to the broken crack finish of Bear Necessities. 80'

Gear: Sparse rack to 2" plus many quickdraws.

Descent: Rappel Bear Necessities with a single 60m rope.

Bear Necessities   5.10a   G (5.2 R)   300'   

[Left of route #2, page 343]

An excellent face climb on knobs and edges that makes its way straight up a deceptively high slab with terrific views of the Wilmington valley. Similar to Freudian Slip, but longer.

Start: 30' uphill and left of the depression of Yard Sale, below right-rising slashes in a steep slab.

P1 5.9 G: Mantel onto a ledge, the climb a steep wall using good incut jugs to a right-rising seam (gear). From the top of the seam, climb straight up featured rock to a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.10a G: Step right and work straight up the face (crux) to a fixed anchor on top of large flakes. 100'

P3 5.9- G: Step left on flakes, then friction straight up the face to a low-angle area beneath a large left-facing corner. Angle up and left for 60' (unprotected 5.2 friction), then climb a broken crack to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus cams and nuts to 1.5".

Descent: The route can be rappelled (barely) with a single 60m rope.

Gold   5.10a   G   100'   

[Route #4, page 343]

This route has been cleaned and is indeed superb. It's well protected with some fixed protection on the upper slab, and there's a fixed anchor for lowering—a single 60m rope just makes it.


Hurricane Crag

 My Generation: New consensus is that the pitches go at 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.10b.

 The start of P2 of Quadrophenia is 5.6 R, not G. There is a short section of unprotected climbing to the first good gear placement. If you fall before then, you will land on the belay ledge, hence the R rating. Also be aware that the gear for the P1 belay is not straight forward—but can be made bomber—and is located at your feet, adding to the inconvenience should one fall before the first piece on P2. This section was once tamed by a fixed piton (placed fairly recently), but is now absent.

Why Did I Fall for That   5.8   G   170'   

[Left of route #1, page 267]

The first pitch is recommended (and much better than it looks) and the second pitch is simply awful; it is possible to rappel after P1. Named for another song by The Who from the It's Hard album.

Start: 150' uphill and left from the large right-facing corner of PSOC is a large left-facing corner with orange rock on its outside face. The top of the corner (about 100' up) forms a free-standing tower. Begin 10' left of the corner below a prominent right-facing flake.

P1 5.7 G : Up some stacked blocks into the right-facing flake. Stem up the flake to a ledge with two large very unstable perched blocks. Traverse right and belay at a comfortable tree ledge. 90'

P2 5.8 G: Traverse left (staying well above the scary perched blocks) to a 4" crack and follow this straight up to a large tree on a grassy ledge. 80'

Descent: Walk left and rappel into a gully with a single rope.

Squeeze Box   5.8   G   90'   

[Left of route #1, page 267]

A high-quality pitch, but often wet. Named for yet another song by The Who, and for the sweet stem box.

Start: Below the large left-facing corner described in the start of Why Did I Fall for That.

P1 5.8 G: Bypass a brief chossy band on the left, then enter the corner and climb the beautiful stem box to a ledge. Up a short finger crack that widens to tight hands to another ledge. 90'

 Variation to Hooligans [Route #8, page 270].

V1 5.9- PG: Start up P2 of Hooligans, but rather than move right onto the face, continue up left into a discontinuous, flared fingercrack. When the crack disappears, make a few tricky face moves (crux) to gain the ledge. Small gear needed.


Lake Lila

 Variation to The Island Marriage [Route #2, page 587].

V1 5.6 G: Begin as for Pretty in Pink, climb past the bolt, then slightly left to the base of the crack.

 There is a fixed anchor at the top of the face, shared for the routes Pretty in Pink, Honeymoon in Yosemite, and The Island Marriage. One can lower with a 60m rope.

Pretty in Pink   5.9   G (5.1 R)   100'   

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 587]

Climbs the beautiful, clean, pink, pocketed face between the upper cracks of Island Marriage and Honeymoon in Yosemite. A one-move-wonder.

Start: 5' left of Honeymoon in Yosemite below a tan streak with a bolt 12' up.

P1 5.9 G (5.1 R): Up the face to a bolt, then runout straight up (crossing The Island Marriage) past a shallow open book to a large left-facing flake (gear). Continue up to the clean pocketed face past a saucer-sized divot to its top. Runout to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Nuts and cams to 0.5".

Damn Your Eyes   5.10c   G   120'   

[Right of route #3, page 587]

Climbs the face between the cracks Honeymoon in Yosemite and Hart Pump, featuring amazingly clean, pocketed rock, and two distinct, well-protected cruxes.

Start: 15' uphill and left of Hart Pump, at a seam with a good finger-sized slot 7' up, and a bolt 15' up.

P1 5.10c G: Boulder up the seam (crux) to a good jug on a sloped shelf, then step right to a sharp right-facing corner. Layback up to a ledge, then straight up to a pink, pocketed face. Up the face (5.9+) to a stance, then traverse right to a beautiful fingercrack that is followed to the top. 120'

V1 5.3 G: To avoid the crux (and make the overall difficulty 5.9+), begin 15' uphill and left. Follow a right-rising sloping holds to the second bolt of the main route.

Gear: Nuts and cams to 0.5".

Descent: A 60m rope does not reach here, so walk 15' left and rappel from trees.

Hart Pump   5.7   G   120'   

Good, sustained, and continuous finger- and hand-crack climbing.

Start: At the left end of the cliff, below a handcrack that begins in the ground and shoots up out of view.

P1 5.7 G: Up the handcrack to a ledge, then follow the crack as it angles right to the top. 120'

Descent: Walk (climber's) left and rappel from trees.

Do Me a Solid   5.10a   G   110'   

Excellent climbing in a remote and scenic location. This route alone is worth the hike/paddle. The rock is extremely compact on this face, but immaculately clean and littered with hidden incuts. Other lines have been toproped on this face.

Start: Uphill and right from the center (or low point) of the cliff is a beautiful clean face bordered on the left by a broken right-facing corner that runs the height of the cliff, and on the right by a prominent right-leaning grass-filled crack. Begin in the center of the face.

P1 5.10a G: Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at 25'. Pull through a steep section at mid-height, then work up and right to a steep headwall. Up through the headwall on a hidden flake and good edges to a fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: Draws.

Descent: Carefully lower with a 60m rope, which just makes it with some down scrambling.


Owls Head Lookout

Owl Tail   5.8-   G   75'

[Way left of route #1, page 381]

This route is located on the ridge that runs northeast from Owls Head Lookout.

Start: When approaching Owls Head Lookout from Route 9N, just before the hiking trail swings to the southwest, bushwhack due east 15 min diagonally uphill to the ridge to find a distinct block of rock 18T 607320 4894356. Begin on the northwest side of the block facing toward Knob Lock Mountain, at a flaring moss-filled groove with a small birch tree 12' up.

P1 5.8- G: An insecure start in the groove leads to easy climbing up a network of cracks. Continue up a very aesthetic vertical crack and finish straight up easier (but questionable) rock to the top. 75'


Humble Pie Wall

 Long pants are recommended, as the approach is getting overgrown by stinging nettles. Yuck!

 Smoking Jacket gets 2 stars.

Tarsal Grinder   5.10c   G   70'

[Between routes #3 and #4, page 155]

Often wet, and a bit on the dirty side.

Start: At the birch tree at the base of I Don't Need No Doctor. You have to climb P1 of Desi's Misery to access the start.

P1 5.10c G: Step right and climb the low-angle face up and right to a prow. Up the prow (crux) to a fixed anchor below a ceiling. 70'


Shanty Cliff

 The route Basti [page 516] has incorrect first ascent information. It should read, "FA 2002: Neal Knitel, Neal Lamphear".

 Fixed protection was added to Hooverville [page 515] just under the fin of rock at the top of the route, reducing a potentially dangerous runout. The route, while difficult for short people, is perhaps a grade easier for tall people.

Skid Row   5.11a   G   90'   

[Between routes #25 and #26, page 515]

Start: Left of Gunky Route, behind a large boulder below an orange slab with a bolt.

P1 5.11a G: Up slab (bolt), then move right across a left-facing corner (bolt) to a small slab below main roof. Move up to a jug (gear in left-slanting cracks above the lip), pull the overhang, then up moderate steep face (5.8) to a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff. 90'

Gear: To 2".

Shaky Flake   5.7   G   50'

[Right of route 33, page 516]

Start: 40' right of right of Mean Low Blues and 5' left of two birch trees.

P1 5.7 G: Climb right trending cracks above birch trees to large ledge 30' up (5.4, optional belay). Climb up left-trending flake. When possible to go right, and up small, left-facing crack to top. 50'


Shanty Cliff: Squatter Wall

This is the clean, shaded wall 150' uphill and left of the Shanty Sports Arena, and 100' downhill and right of Mean Low Blues. From the Shanty Sports Arena, follow the climber's path uphill for 150' until level with the base of the wall, then walk right 30'. There is a maple tree with 4 trunks centered on the cliff, 1' back from the wall.

Climber's Yodel #7   5.7   G   60'   

Contrived, as the route gains length by traversing along the top of the cliff just below where you could otherwise walk. You finish 30' left of the start.

Start: On the left side of the open area, where the terrain goes steeply up left.

P1 5.7 G: Go up a blunt arête on good, incut, blocky holds, staying 6' left of a black streak, then onto the face above. At the top, instead of standing up, traverse up and left for 20' staying just below the crest to a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: 6 quickdraws.

Grips of Wrath   5.7+   G   25'   

Start: 4' left of the 4-trunked maple tree, on the left side of the black rock centered on the face, and 3' right of Climber's Yodel #7.

P1 5.7+ G: Go straight up blocky incut rock into the black streak and up to a short overhanging face with white rock. Pull straight through on pumpy jugs to a hidden fixed anchor just above. 25'

Gear: 3 quickdraws.

Railroad Dickie   5.10a   G   25'   

The second clip is difficult for short people.

Start: 4' right of the 4-trunked maple tree, and 8' left of the right side of the face, at an incut edge 6' up.

P1 5.10a G: Climb straight up the face to a left-rising crack, then straight up to the top of the face. Instead of standing up, hand traverse left on hidden jugs for 10' to a fixed anchor. 25'

Gear: 4 quickdraws.


Shanty Cliff: Shanty Sports Arena

Shanty 101   5.8   G   35'

[Left of route 34, page 516]

Start: 15' left of Bidonville at a slab with a high bolt, and directly below a pointed prow.

P1 5.8 G: Stick-clip the first bolt, then climb directly up a slab below the prow. Up over the pointed prow, then continue up the face to a fixed anchor. 35'

Gear: Above the prow, the route is 5.7 with trad protection.


King Wall

The King and I   5.9+   G (5.5 R)   215'   

[Probably should be listed between routes #12 and #13, page 168]

Located above Wall Ruler and right of Kaiser Friedrich is a large, open, off-vertical face with naturally clean, pocketed rock, completely hidden from the cliff base. The wall is bordered on its right side by a perched house-sized boulder. This was the first new route at the King Wall in over 10 years.

Start: Begin on the good ledge at the top of Wall Ruler. This is accessed by climbing Wall Ruler, or (more easily) the first two pitches of Prince (5.7), then the P1 traverse pitch of Kaiser Friedrich (5.8).

P1 5.5 R: Go up left to a short 5.5 face trending back right on positive edges but no protection. Get gear in a roof overlap and walk right on a clean flat sidewalk with little pro to step-down (4th class, no protection) and obvious fixed anchor out right. 75'

P2 5.9+ G: Climb straight up the face through an unlikely-looking black headwall to the top. 140'

Gear: 9 quickdraws plus cams through 2".

Descent: Two 60m double-rope rappels return to the ground near Another Wack and Dangle Job.

The Keep   5.11b   G   140'   

[Probably should be listed between routes #12 and #13, page 168]

Immaculate pocketed rock, sustained climbing, and several cruxes characterize this off-vertical face. Absolutely superb.

Start: At the fixed anchor at the end of P1 of The King and I.

P1 5.11b G: Step left from the anchor, mantel a ledge, then walk left 15' to a pocketed black wall with a bolt. Work straight up the amazing pocketed wall (5.9) to a sloping ledge below a shallow white open book. Boulder into the open book (first crux) and climb to its top, then up the super thin face past a key nipple (second crux) to another sloping stance below a scooped headwall. Friction up the scoop to a difficult mantel (third crux), surmount an overlap, then run out to the trees and fixed anchor shared with The King and I. 140'

Gear: Draws, RPs, and 1 ea 1" cam.

 Another Wack and Dangle Job [Route 13, page 169] has gone free at 5.12a.


Spider's Web

 There is a new fixed anchor at the top of Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley / Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood, replacing the tat on Mr. Rogers'.

 There is a new fixed anchor near the top of the cliff below lichen-covered summit blocks shared between Monkey See, Monkey Do and Drop, Fly, or Die. A 70m rope required to lower off.

 There is a new fixed anchor near the top of the cliff below lichen-covered summit blocks shared between Romano's Route and White Knight. A 70m rope required to lower off.

 There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the cliff for P2 of On the Loose. Two ropes are required to rappel to the ground.

 The route Slim Pickins appears to have been climbed by Henry Barber around the same time as the other routes (1977).

 The V1 of Pumpernickel called Black Widow is listed as 5.11d, but is more like 5.12c.

 Variation to Zabba [Route #13, page 218]. This is the first known lead of the direct start.

V1 5.13b G: This is the direct start.

Wheelin' N' Dealin'   5.13c   R   100'   

Climbs the beautiful seam bisecting the Normal Route; the hardest all-gear-protected route in the park. The first ascent required 3-1/2 months of work and close to 20 big falls, including a "cartwheel whipper" for which the route is named.

Start: 15' right of Drop, Fly, or Die below tiered overhangs.

P1 5.13c R: Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam, place small gear, then punch to a horizontal and good rest. Climb to a strenuous stance (improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod). Gun up through an extremely insecure crux (tiny feet) to reach a jug (two tiny RPs). Follow easier but runout ground to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Extremely specific and includes three hybrid aliens and several micro RPs, some good and some questionable. Toproping prior to a lead is advisable due to the specific nature of the gear.

Ku Klux Who?   5.10d   G   30'   

A variation finish to White Knight. Apparently, this has been climbed countless times through the years, but has recently been made more accessible with a fixed anchor at the top.

P1 5.10d G: From the ledge at the top of White Knight, instead of traversing right to the fixed anchor of On The Loose, continue up the same crack system—rattly fingers to thin hands with multiple "finger buckets" along the way (much like the lower half of the route). 30'

Descent: Lower with a 70m rope.


Bike Path Cliff

There is a very small cliff along the Lake George—Glens Falls Bicycle Path, perhaps 20' high. The area has poor landings, but a toprope can be arranged. Routes up to 5.11 have been climbed.


Henderson Cliff

 The approach is reportedly full of blowdown from Hurricane Irene, but still passable.

 The route Top Knot is reportedly missing bolt hangers.

Old Guys Having Fun   5.9   PG   120'

[Left of route #1, page 350]

Start: At a crack 8' left of Topknot, just right of the arête.

P1 5.9 PG: Climb crack to its top, then face climb (staying 8' left of Topknot) to a blocky ramp (left of Topknot's anchor). Traverse left above big flake to steep right-diagonaling fingercrack (crux), then easily left around corner to brushy, blocky crest that leads to the woods. 120'

Gear: To 2".

Descent: Two raps with a single rope using the anchor on Topknot.


Gull Pond

Big In Munchkin Land   5.7   G   25'

Start: This route is located on the first cliff you come to as you skirt the lake from the west.

P1 5.7 G: Go straight up a shallow corner system, then (V1) head right and go up the edge of the cliff to a fixed anchor at the top. 25'

V1 5.11 TR: Going straight up is much more difficult.

Up In Smoke   5.9   G   60'   

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 473] A well-protected corner with good jugs and wild stemming.

Start: On the left edge of the cliff, below and 35' left of Scales.

P1 5.9 G: Go up a corner to a roof (crux). Wild stems lead past the roof on the right, then continue up the corner to a fixed anchor at the top. 60'

Toss Me My Nuts   5.11a   PG   160'   

[This route was listed as a "project" on page 474, and is now a lead route]

Start: 20' right of the start of Get Reborn is an arête with a steep wall to its right. Begin 12' right of the arête, at a good handhold at head height.

P1 5.11a PG: Make a boulder move to a horizontal crack, traverse left (crux, #3 nut critical), then up and step around the arête. Up the arête past a piton and 2 bolts (5.10b) to a fixed anchor. 60'

P2 5.8- G: Move up and left to a wide crack in an overhang; up this, then scramble up easier rock to the top (same as Get Reborn). 100'

Austin City Limits   5.12a   G   55'   

Formerly a toprope problem known as Flaws of Physics.

Start: 10' right of the arête of Toss Me My Nuts, at an overhanging, left-facing corner.

P1 5.12a G: Make a hard boulder problem to start (V4, harder if you're tall), then up 20' of laybacking. Follow the technical, reachy dihedral system to a fixed anchor (shared with Toss Me My Nuts). 55'

Gear: A few small to medium cams or medium nuts.

Unnamed11 Project

This open project climbs the obvious line to the right of Austin City Limits. Begin with a steep crack boulder problem out of a cave (crux, ~5.12). Some care will be needed not to block useful jams with gear and there is a section with only fair gear and groundfall potential if the belayer isn't on the ball. Then climb a thin crack with good gear to an 12" overhang (5.11a). Make a big move past the overhang to good holds, then up a face to a heartbreaker crux before the fixed anchor.


Catamount Mountain

Three Blind Mice   5.5   G   130'

[The location of this route in relation to South Summit Route is unconfirmed.]

Start: Uphill and right of South Summit Route, at a steep, moist, right-facing corner.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the corner for 6' (or the unprotected slab to the left), step left onto a slab, then up a groove with a shallow left-facing corner on its right side (crux) to a stance. Trend right towards a left-facing corner-chimney. Up the corner, then up an excessively lichen-covered face, emerging onto a rolling slab that takes you to the top of the technical climbing. 130'

Descent: From the top of the technical climbing, scramble and cedar pull up and right another 100' to reach the hiking trail.


Lake Pleasant Quarry

The Lake Pleasant Quarry [page 568] is now an excellent toproping destination with an open, flat base, toprope anchors, easy access (5 min, flat), and a good range of climbs (mostly between 5.7 and 5.8). The route Bullseye, mentioned on page 568 of the guidebook, is the 5th route from the right. The top of the cliff is accessed by walking right, and ropes can be arranged by carefully reaching over the edge and threading them through any of the many chain anchors. The cliff is 125' wide and between 20' and 45' high. The climbing is a mix of smooth crimpy face climbing, horizontal blocks and cracks, and small roofs, resulting from blasted rock. Many of the climbs have toprope anchors, but even so, several are good for leading.

Looking at the cliff from the open meadow in front, there are 12 sets of anchors. The leftmost four anchors are for the first four routes Barrel of Monkeys, Sarge, Buzz, and To Infinity and Beyond! The anchors on these routes are difficult to access from the top (use a short rappel or lead Barrel of Monkeys). The crag main features are the "Iron Curtain", a smooth face to a ledge 8' up spanning the first five routes, and the "Rock Fall Area", just left of center, where many large loose blocks have come down.

As are all routes in the guidebook, these are described left to right.

There is a wonderful swim spot in Sacandaga lake near the Quarry parking area. The beach is owned by NYS and open to the public. From the parking area, drive east on NY 8, then turn right onto Tamarack Road. Follow this to its end, then turn left onto Fawn Lake Road. At its end, turn right onto Forest Trail.

Barrel of Monkeys   5.4   G   35'   

A good introduction to the area.

Start: 25' left of Sarge at a left-facing corner just right of a large, dirty chimney–crack.

P1 5.3 G: Up low-angled, highly-featured rock to a large ledge, then angle right to a fixed anchor. 35'

Sarge   5.7+   G   42'   

The fixed anchor is accessible from the top; use a short rappel to avoid unstable rock.

Start: Near the left end of the cliff is an orange nose near the top. Begin just right of the nose, 55' left of Bullseye and 10' left of Buzz, below a horizontal crack 8' up.

P1 5.7+ G: (V1, V2) Climb up two small vertical cracks to the left of a smooth face. Continue up thin seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 42'

V1 5.6+ G: Begin by climbing the left-arching corner on the right of the smooth face to a great jug, then pull onto a small ledge. Join the normal route to the top.

V2 Stinky Pete 5.10c TR: Just right of the normal start, climb the smooth face using a horizontal crack.

Buzz   5.8   G   40'   

Start: At a face just right of a left-facing corner that arches left into a small ceiling.

P1 5.8 G: (V1) Go directly up the face staying out of the left-arching corner, to a ledge at mid-height. Continue up a thin, broken crack to a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 5.6+ G: Begin just left in the left-facing corner that arches left into a small ceiling. Move up the corner to a high jug at the end of the arch, the up to a horizontal crack. Step right and climb a thin crack to a good ledge with a fixed anchor.

To Infinity and Beyond!   5.9   G   35'   

Despite appearances of being thin and crimpy, this is a fun climb that has a lot more available than meets the eye.

Start: 6' right of Buzz at a black face with shattered rock.

P1 5.9 G: (V1) Climb the black face to a good horizontal, then follow a straight-up seam to a fixed anchor.

The fixed anchor is accessible from the top; use a short rappel to avoid unstable rock. 35'

V1 Wheezy 5.10b G: Go up the smooth rock face to the right of the bolts using face crimps, avoiding use of the side pulls on Woody. Higher up, move diagonally right up small footholds, then lunge from a crimp to a horizontal crack.

Woody   5.7   PG   35'   

Perhaps the most obvious crack at the cliff. There is no fixed anchor; use "woody" (trees) for toprope anchors. Beware of large, loose, unstable rock at bottom overhang and loose blocks at top ledge area. When setting up as a toprope, there is a bolt around the corner from the main face to serve as a directional to keep the belay end of the rope out of a crack.

Start: 5' right of To Infinity and Beyond! and at the left end of a low ceiling 4' up with some lighter-colored unstable blocks in it.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb straight up black rock to a left-leaning orange seam that becomes a right-facing corner, then up to a ledge. 35'

Squeeky Toy Aliens   5.7   G   35'   

Use caution with the large unstable blocks at the overhang.

Start: At the right side of large hanging blocks.

P1 5.7 G: Go up the hanging blocks, then straight up using horizontal cracks to finish on a large ledge at a fixed anchor around the corner of the face. 35'

Emperor Zurg   5.10a   G   37'   

The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Start: On the right end of the low ceiling 4' up at a thin seam in black rock.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) Up the seam in the smooth face to a ledge in a small right-facing corner. Work up and left for 4', then straight up the orange face to a fixed anchor. 37'

V1 The Project 5.12 TR: Start just right of Squeeky Toy Aliens in the center of the low ceiling 4' up. Climb over the ceiling, then up the smooth face to a second ceiling. Over this, then up to the Emperor Zurg fixed anchor.

Rex   5.8+   TR   35'   

Start as for Emperor Zurg and step up and right onto a black face with good incut, crimpy holds. Up the face to a ledge, then over a ceiling and onto an orange face. Continue up some overlapping blocks to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

I Am Not a Toy!   5.10b   TR   30'   

Begin 10' right of Rex at a 5'-wide ceiling 4' up in black rock. Up the black face, then over a small ceiling to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Bullseye   5.8   G   30'   

This route has two bolts which were missing hangers for years, as they were being used by locals for target practice. No top anchor, but you can reach left and use the fixed anchor on I Am Not a Toy.

Start: 5' right of I Am Not a Toy, and just right of a 5'-wide ceiling 4' up, 40' from the right end of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Up past a ledge on the right to a ceiling (bolt), then up past a V-shaped pod to the top. 30'

Tour Guide Barbie   5.7+   TR   28'   

Start as for Bullseye. Climb up and right through shattered rock to a horizontal crack, then to a vertical seam that leads to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Psycho Sid   5.7   TR   25'   

Begin 25' from the right end of the cliff at the 4th crack from the right end of the cliff, and the first crack right of Bullseye. Up the crack to a good ledge, step right and follow a seam to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Mutant Toy   5.6   TR   20'

This is the second crack (which is more of a seam) from the right end of the cliff, and 15' from the right end of the cliff. Up the thin crack past horizontals to a ledge, then past a small alcove to a fixed anchor. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

Mr. Potato Head   5.7   TR   16'

(V1) Begin 6' from the right end of the cliff. Up a face with thin holds in a seam to an 8"-wide vertical slot with a fixed anchor just above. The fixed anchor is easily accessible from the top.

V1 Mrs. Potato Head TR: Begin further right at a large blocky crack near the right end of the crag.


Wallface

 Prelude to Gravity [Route #6, page 359] has a new pitch, completing the route to the "top" of the cliff (or at least to where the cliff turns to trees and slabs). Very good climbing, delicious exposure, and clean rock. From the top anchor, you can join Wandering Wizard or simply rappel (two 60m rappels to the ground).

P4 Rolling the Dice 5.11b G : Balance up and left to the top of the Ax of Karma flake, then move up and right onto the steep wall to a short, shallow right-facing corner (gear). Up the corner, then face climb up and right to an imposing, overhanging wave of rock. Pull over the ceiling (crux), up a face, then angle left 40' across several slabs to a steep headwall. Up the headwall (5.10c, much harder than it looks) to a fixed anchor. Requires 13 draws and 2 red aliens. 170'

 A flake fell from P1 of Free Ride [Route #27, page 373] just before the bolt. A tight #3 Camalot now provides adequate protection for the move to the bolt. The grade of P1 remains unchanced.

 More information has emerged regarding the route The Shining Path. It should be named The Mission to Mars, and it continues another pitch (A3+ 5.9) past an obvious orange spot with a right-arching right-facing corner–ceiling. It continues about 30' above the ceiling to a fixed anchor.

Huff 'n Puff   5.10 A2   430'

Start: Downhill and right of Out with the Boys [Route #4, page 358], left of the Ax of Karma, to the right of a right-facing corner.

P1 5.9 PROTECTION: Scramble up bushy terrain to gain a slab. Diagonal left to right-facing corner. Climb corner (crux) to belay tree. 80'

P2 5.10 PROTECTION: Start just left of the belay tree. Traverse right over loose terrain to thin crack. Climb crack. Diagonal left to small overlap and climb this. Head toward roof and traverse this to a crack–weakness. Over the roof, the up crack to top of column. Belay on right side of column. 100'

P3 5.9 C1: Go up column to roof. Traverse right to crack–weakness aid crack. Continue up crack to slab until reaching a horizontal crack. Traverse horizontal crack to the right 50' to good ledge. Belay at small right-facing corner. 110'

P4 5.10 C1: Climb up to roof. Traverse right using undercling, layback, aid, and cam hooking (stay on the lower crack system). Belay at a pin next to a right-facing corner. 70'

P5 5.7 A2: Aid through roof (using existing knife blades and cam hook, then up crack through corner with bushy tree. Top out left tree. 70'

Gear: Double set of cams from micro to #2, set of nuts, cam hooks.

Decent: Use rappel route for No Man's a Pilot [Route #15, page 364] a few hundred feet (climber's) right, and slightly uphill.

Pay As You Go   5.10   PG (5.9 R, 5.8X)   620'

P3 is classic—nice rock, multiple cruxes, and solid protection—, but the P1 barrier (and its 40+' runouts) will keep away only the most determined.

Start: Follow the 4th class ramp onto the shield terrace. Begin at the right end of the terrace, 30' right of Free Ride P4 and below the distinct black streak on the shield, and 20' left of a broad, vegetated, left-facing corner.

P1 5.9 R (5.8 X): Climb the face with no protection (5.8 X) to a small overlap and the obvious right-arching crack and corner above. Continue up the corner until it is possible to move back left up and over the corner (5.9 R) then trend right following an obvious weakness (no pro) to reach a tree island. 160'

P2 5.1 PG: Continue up easy terrain across the terrace to a birch tree, then traverse right 20' until it is possible to move straight up then right again to more trees directly below two vertical crack systems. 150'

P3 5.10 PG : Follow the obvious fist-sized crack off the belay through a bulge. Climb straight up into a shallow, left-facing corner (5.10), then up a larger left-facing corner capped by a roof. Exit out the roof at a crack (5.10) to a semi-hanging gear belay. 130'

P4 5.7 PG: Move up and right to a crumbly crack and follow this straight up until the climbing eases. Trend left as the cliff merges with krumholtz. Continue up and left until a secure belay can be made at the top of the cliff. 180'

Descent: Tunnel left for 150' to the top of Free Ride and rappel that route.

Na-my   5.8   PG   430'

[Starts between routes #33 and #34, pages 378–380]

Start: 75' right of Mental Blocks is a large right-facing corner with a chimney (as described in the start of The B.M.Z. [page 380]). Begin on the face left of this corner.

P1 5.8 PG: Zigzag up the unprotected face (5.6) to a ledge system with trees, then over short rock steps moving up and passing to the left of a short, shallow, left-facing, left-leaning corner. Move up and over a bulge (crux), then traverse 20' right to a spacious ledge (shared with P1 of The B.M.Z.). 120'

P2 5.5 G: From here, The B.M.Z. goes out left. Instead, go up a short corner (5.5), then head up right following a chimney-like ramp (5.4). Belay in flakes at the top of the chimney. 120'

P3 5.8 G: Go straight up over a bulge (5.7) to a layback under a flake leading left and forming a small, left-facing corner that joins the steep, blank-looking corner coming up from the alcove below. Follow this corner to its top (5.8) where it changes to right-facing. Follow this to a very bushy alcove. 90'

P4 5.8 PG: Do not follow the large and obvious corner leading diagonally up left from the alcove. Instead, ascend a short, overhanging wall at the back of the alcove to a smaller, hidden corner that ascends diagonally up and right. Go up this (5.8, some loose rock) and escape right following a corner (5.4) to a ledge at its top. 100'

Descent: Three more 4th class pitches lead up and right following high-angle brush and over vertical moss-covered steps. From here, the first ascent party walked (climber's) right and down to the north end of Indian Pass.


Poke-O Moonshine: Main Face

 The route Katrina is reported to be a bit of a sandbag.

 The first pitch of Home Run Derby is reported to be a fairly serious bit of climbing, perhaps justifying the R rating.

 The new first pitch of Sailor's Dive is reported to be R.

 The fixed anchor on Homecoming has been beefed up (you no longer need to traverse to Ukiah).

 The route Air Male has been extended with three additional bolts to the shared anchor of Son of a Mother. Although sustained, the overall grade of the route doesn't change. From the anchor of the original route, move delicately right and up to a bolt (long runner), then go left and mantel up to a ledge. Continue straight up on sidepulls and crimps to the fixed anchor.

 Variation to Son of a Mother [Route #14, page 41].

V1 5.11a G: At the second bolt, step left on small edges to a good handhold on the blunt arête. Join Air Male to the top.

 A block fell from P1 of The Snatch [route 75, page 61] leaving a blank section and some dangerous choss. This has been cleaned up and, with the addition of a bolt, is now an excellent, safe pitch. The grade has not changed.

 The block that fell from P1 of The Snatch affected the grade of P1 of The Body Snatcher [route 73, page 61], since this section of the routes is shared. This pitch is now 5.10.

 There is a patch of poison ivy on the traverse of P1 of Freedom Flight [Route #39, page 50]. This seems to persist year-to-year, so is worthy of note. Your body can avoid it, but not the rope. If you're sensitive to PI, watch out! Also, beware of the detached flake on P2. This section is comparatively easy, but the flake seems to be moving more than usual. You can load it up with cams, but a fall would surely bring the rock down with you; definitely 5.7 X.

Under the Influence   5.10d   G   195'   

Start: At the P2 anchor of Cirrhosis.

P1 5.10d G: Climb up and right to a large suspect (but sound) flake. Climb the flake, then head left and up to a shallow right-facing corner–crack. Follow the crack up a left-facing corner to an overhang (3" cam helpful), through the overhang using a finger crack, to the face above. At the last bolt head up and right to a thin crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top. 195'


Poke-O Moonshine: Slab

Our Tenth   5.5   PG   340'   

[Left of route #1, page 100]

A previously unknown route that makes a good diversion while waiting your turn on Catharsis. High quality climbing on P1 with clean, featured rock and solid pro every 25'; P2 is of lesser quality.

Start: 40' left of Catharsis below a clean, featured, dark brown slab.

P1 5.5 PG : Up the featured slab using friction and positive edges, flakes, and small corners. Cross the right-rising crack at 60', then continue straight up steeper, dark brown rock until the angle eases. Head left to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 160'

P2 5.5 PG: Head straight right, then angle up and right across a brushy ledge to a left-facing corner, up this, then continue traversing rightwards to join Catharsis just before at the Dead Oak Ledge. 180'


Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Second Tier: Black Market Wall

Bee's Knees   5.9   G   40'   

Tremendously fun.

Start: About 15' left of Pollen Junkies at a short corner crack marked by a large roof at its top.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the short slab to gain the corner crack. Stem and jam the crack to the base of the roof (#4). Heel hook, lie back, and enjoy. The route ends at a fixed anchor on a tree directly above. 40'

Gear: Small rack up to 1.5", plus a #4 Camalot for the roof.

Pollen Junkies   5.8   G   110'

Start: About 100 yards right of Handcrack Boulder [Route #94, page 126], at an 8'-high right-leaning ramp. Above the ramp is a handcrack with a pine tree 30' up.

P1 5.8 G: Jam the crack past the tree until the crack widens to 4". Exit the crack to gain a clean slab with a fingercrack at its top. Climb the fingercrack to a fixed anchor on a pine tree. 110'

Descent: Belay on top with a 60m rope, as there is insufficient rope to lower a leader. You can, however, rappel with a 60m rope.

Gear: Up to 4".

Spider Biter   5.8   G   80'   

Start: 15' right of Pollen Junkies is a huge corner marked by a series of roofs (about 150' left of Black Market [Route #97, page 126]). Spider Biter ascends the corner left of the huge roof. Begin at a high fingercrack that starts in the roof just left of the giant slab.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the fingercrack to the base of the corner. Climb into the corner on good incuts to the base of the first roof (#00 TCU). An airy traverse followed by a short layback gives way to a good (but difficult to see) foot on the arête. Climb a few more feet to a good shelf with a fixed anchor on a pine tree directly above. 80'

Gear: Standard rack up to 2". Double 1.5" helpful.


Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Third Tier

The Third Tier is mentioned on page 127 with a reference to a historic route in the huge left-facing corner on the upper half of the cliff.

Rearview Mirror   5.9   G (5.7 R)   150'   

This route is located on the right side of a buttress, the left side of which is the huge left-facing corner mentioned on page 127. A sub-par first pitch and good second pitch.

Start: At a shallow open book that curves left, 30' uphill and right of an 8'-wide black water streak that is directly below a huge open book on the upper half of the cliff.

P1 5.7 R: Follow the shallow open book up left past a small white birch to a slab. Step up left onto the slab (5.7 R) and up to a deep horizontal below a towering prow of rock. Traverse 20' left to a large blueberry-covered ledge. 75'

P2 5.9 G: Follow an offwidth crack (crux) on the left side of stacked blocks to a ledge formed by the blocks. Finish up a jamcrack in the huge open book above. 75'

Gear: Standard rack plus some large cams.

Hand Therapy   5.8-   PG   75'   

Harder for short climbers or those with small hands.

Start: At short left-leaning cracks below a right-facing corner system, 25' right of the shallow open book of Rearview Mirror.

P1 5.8- PG: Climb the cracks and corner system, then up a 4"-wide slot and finger crack to the top. 75'

Autumn Gold   5.9   PG   90'   

Start: Below an undulating 3'-deep left-facing left-leaning corner, 35' right of a huge perched block whose left end is sharply pointed and forms a bottomless chimney.

P1 5.9 PG: Up the undulating corner to a stance just right of a short right-facing corner. Angle up right into a right-facing V-corner (the left-hand of two corners), step left at the top of the corner, and pull over the top. 90'

Trick Move   5.10b   G   90'   

Start: At a slightly low-angle left-facing corner on the right end of a 20'-high black wall, 120 right of the Autumn Gold corner. There is a spruce tree above the left end of the black wall, 30' up.

P1 5.10b G: Up the corner to the first ledge, which is just below a broad ledge running to the left. Move up right onto the huge ledge at the base of a large left-facing corner. Follow the corner (3.5" Friend useful) to the top. 90'

Maiden Voyage   5.8+   G   90'   

Probably PG for shorter climbers.

Start: At a large left-facing corner with a 20'-high yellow spot on the right wall, 50' right of the Trick Move corner.

P1 5.8+ G: Follow the corner and crack that diverges left to a large ledge. Step out right and finish up a short jamcrack. 90'


Poke-O Moonshine: Upper Tiers: Fourth Tier

As you move right along the base of the Third Tier, just right of Rearview Mirror, the cliff splits, forming a fourth tier. A tree ledge up to 80' deep separates the two tiers. Although it is possible to reach this ledge by hiking around the left end of the Third Tier (or around to the right with some 5th class moves; not recommended), climbers have so far found it easier to gain this ledge by climbing one of the routes on the Third Tier; if you climb Hand Therapy, you'll arrive at the base of Rockhound and Poke-O Pup.

Rockhound   5.6   G   35'   

Start: At a right-facing corner on the left side of a short black water-stained wall near the left end of the Fourth Tier, less than 50' from where the Third Tier and Fourth Tier merge.

P1 5.6 G: Up the corner, exit left near the top. 35'

Poke-O Pup   5.8   G   35'   

Harder for short climbers.

Start: At a shallow right-facing corner below some vertical cracks in the black water-stained wall, 6' right of the Rockhound corner.

P1 5.8 G: Follow the corners and cracks to the top. 35'

Defiant Eyes   5.11d   PG   40'   

The runout through the crux is above bomber nuts.

Start: At a vertical crack 30' right of Poke-O Pup.

P1 5.11d PG: Climb the crack and a small left-facing corner, then up the face to a larger right-facing corner. Stretch up left to the arête and pull over the top. 40'

Lakeview   5.7   G   50'   

Great views of Lake Champlain.

Start: At a left-facing crack that leads up right to a ledge with a large perched flake, 40' right of Defiant Eyes.

P1 5.7 G: Up the crack to the ledge, pull up onto the perched flake, then follow a large open book to the top. 50'

True North   5.10b   G   60'   

Continually interesting and beautiful to look at. Requires skills in placing small nuts. Named for a book by Jim Harrison.

Start: At a thin crack below an attractive 5"-deep left-facing corner that curves up the face, 8' right of a prominent arête and 50' right of the Lakeview crack.

P1 5.10b G: Climb the crack and follow the corner up right to the top. 60'

Gear: Two #6 Crack'n Ups (hook-like pitons by Black Diamond) were used on the first ascent.

Perfect Pitch   5.10b   G   70'   

Named for the aesthetic quality of this stunning corner, like Frosted Mug at the Upper Beer Wall.

Start: At a flawless left-facing corner with a short offwidth section, 80' right of the prominent arête (the arête that is 8' left of True North).

P1 5.10b G: Up the beautiful corner until just below the top. Finish up a short vertical crack to the left. 70'


Courthouse

 Consensus rating for Criminal Lawyer is 5.10a. There's a giant raven's nest at the square block that doesn't interfere with the climbing. In the spring when the nest is occupied, well, that's another story. [Route #3, page 403]

 Variation to Hung Jury [Route #2, page 402].

V2 Judge Judy 5.11a G : A direct line to the top with a sustained, technical fingercrack interspersed with horizontals. There are two cracks that break the roof mentioned in Hung Jury; this is the left crack. At the left side of the roof, start with a perfect hand jam and climb the fingercrack to the top.


Upper Washbowl

Northern Revival   5.12c   PG   360'   

[Between routes #7 and #8, page 202]

Follows the right-facing corner system just right of Too Wet to Plow. Amazing position and unique movement with steep bouldery sequences on pinches and slopey crimps, requiring many small cams in a row. Be mindful of the protection, as several gear placements make the difference between this being reasonable and R-rated. With proper rope management you can combine P1 and P2.

Start: Same as Wiessner Route.

P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of Wiessner Route to the first big ledge. Traverse to the right end of the ledge below a left-leaning, left-facing corner and belay on small cams. 70'

P2 5.10c PG: Follow the left-facing corner system up and left using many long slings to reduce drag later in the pitch. At the top of the corner, step back right past a bolt and continue up past small cam placements and another bolt to a fixed anchor on a hanging ramp. (Note: A red Alien or large HB offset protect the moves to the anchor.) 80'

P3 5.12c PG: Work up and right past two bolts (crux) and follow the corner until below a small roof where the crack runs out (black alien under the roof is the only piece that will fit). Run it out up and right to a shallow left-facing corner and good gear. Pull out right around the corner and up the face to a beautiful ledge and fixed anchor. 150'

P4 5.9 PG: A wonderfully exposed pitch up the very prow of the wall: head up and left and pull around the left side of an arête. Stay just left of the arête past small gear placements to the top. 60'

Gear: RPs, double set of cams to 2", 5 ea 0.4" (#00 C3 or black Alien). Although the gear is thin in the corner, it is solid.

Soup Kitchen   5.8+   G   90'   

[Replacement for route #15, page 204]

This route ascends the new rock that was exposed when Green Beer fell into the talus in 2008.

Start: At the white scar 30' right of Prelude.

P1 5.8+ G: Layback along a left-leaning fingercrack, pull a roof, then continue on easier ground to a fixed anchor. 90'


Whitewater Walls

 The approach to these walls has been improved and is now a fairly straight line from the road to the river with a few cairns along the way. On the far side of the river, there is now a path to Wall #3 which climbs gently to the right across a rocky area before turning uphill, reducing erosion.

A Paris Parody   5.4   G   70'   

[Right of route #12, page 154]

Start: 20' right of Walk On The Easy Side.

P1 5.4 G: Climb good holds (V1) past a small white pine. Continue past a single bolt (crux), then straight up over bulges to the top. 70'

V1 5.5 R: Move up and right to a small left-facing flake. Climb up and left along an undercling, then up right to a horizontal. Step right to a good crack and follow it up and left to easy slab topout.


Backwater Wall

Backwater Wall is the fourth wall in the Whitewater Wall series. It's set back in the woods and cannot be seen from the road.

Directions: Same as for Whitewater Walls (page 153). From Wall #3 (the rightmost of the walls), make your way to the top (go either left or right; both work), then walk straight back into the woods and up along a brook to waterfall in a hollow. Turn right (east) out of the hollow and across the hill to the base of Backwater Wall. The approach takes about 5 minutes from the top of Wall #3.

Hydraulic   5.4   X   65'

Start: Near the left end of the cliff, 15' right of where path switchbacks left to the top of the cliff, at a small 8'-high promontory of rock at the base of the cliff.

P1 5.4 X: Climb the promontory. Step left and then run out the pleasant face to a horizontal crack 40' up (gear). Follow the diagonal feature up and right to finish in a flaring vertical crack. 65'

Cool Water   5.7   G   65'   

Perhaps the best route here.

Start: Same as Hydraulic.

P1 5.7 G: Climb the promontory. Step a few feet right to below a small left-facing corner (excellent gear at its base). Climb up into the corner (crux) and up a couple easier, but unprotected moves above (5.5). Easier face and crack climbing leads up and right to the top. 65'

Whirlpool   5.5   PG   60'   

Start: 15' right of Hydraulic and about 2' right of mossy area on wall.

P1 5.4 PG: Face climb for 15', then continue up and slightly left to the base of a large, obvious diagonal crack, which is followed to the top. 60'

Flume   5.5   PG   60'

Same: Same as Whirlpool.

P1 5.5 PG: Face climb 15', then move right to a small right-facing corner. Gain a small diagonal finger crack and follow this to just below a second, larger right-facing corner. Continue following another small diagonal crack until you intercept the top few feet of Rock Hop. 60'

Rock Hop   5.3   PG   60'

Start: Near the center of the cliff, below a ledge 10' up with small maples.

P1 5.3 PG: Gain the ledge by climbing in from the right. (Alternatively, make one 5.5 move up the short crack.) Move up into the shallow alcove, and then right and up blocky rock to finish at the birch tree in the center of the cliff. 60'

Eddy   5.4   G   65'

Start: Right of Rock Hop below a pyramid-shaped slab.

P1 5.4 G: Go up the slab, through a notch at the top (crux), then up to an arête to join Rock Hop at the top. 65'

Swept Away   5.8-   G (5.5 R)   70'

A one move wonder.

Start: 25' right of the maple ledge of Rock Hop, below a large left-diagonaling overhang 12' up, and just left of an 8" tree.

P1 5.8- G (5.5 R): Climb easily up the overhang, reaching it a couple feet left of the crack in the overhang (which takes good gear). Break through the overhang, then step right and up into a corner. Climb the corner, and face to the right, to the top (5.5 R). 70'

Cripple Creek   5.8-   G   110'

Start: Approximately 100' right of Swept Away. On the approach trail, after the shorter ladder, continue 50', then go left. Cross a mossy marsh, then bushwhack up along the right side of a rockslide area. Walk right along the base of the cliff to a short, 12'-tall face split by a wide crack.

P1 5.8- G: Go up the short face to a large ledge. Step over to the main face at a crack in a groove, which sits left of a large, brush-choked notch under an overhang. Up this crack, under a bulging arête, and into a corner system. Continue up to a ledge, then make an airy traverse right onto a slab. Up this to the top. 110'

River Run   5.4   G   50'

Start: 25' right of Swept Away, just right of a 10" maple tree, below a blunt rounded section of rock with a network of diagonal cracks.

P1 5.4 G: Climb up, then trend left using the network of cracks. Continue up on good horizontals as the angle eases. 50'


Moss Cliff

 The description of the start of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher [Route #12, page 330] should read, "12' left of the arête at an offset finger- and hand-crack, directly behind a large dead stump."

 The "adventurous river crossing" has been restored, so bring a locking biner and clip both lines together (for redundancy).

 The route Spirit of Adventure [Route #7, page 328] is listed as 5.11b, 5.10c, 5.10c. Consensus has the grades at 5.11a, 5.11a, 5.10d, with the move on P3 being more difficult if you're short.

Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber   5.12d   PG   80'   

[Between routes #12 and #13, page 330]

Sustained, technical and powerful moves above small intermittent gear; a real testpiece of traditionally-protected climbing. Easily toproped from the Mistah Luthah anchor.

Start: At a short fingercrack in a shallow right facing corner 3' left of the arête that divides the Free Wall and the Aid Wall. Also 9' right of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher and 6' left of Mistah Luthah.

P1 5.12d PG: Up the initial crack, surge up to a jug, lieback and gaston up the left-trending flakes and punch it back right past the crux bulge on crisp crimps. Finish by sidepulling up both sides of the arête to the fixed anchor at the top of Mistah Luthah. Have a cigar! 80'

Gear: Cams from purple C3 (#00) to yellow C3 (#2), 2 ea #3 RPs, other small wires.

Mistah Luthah   5.12a   G   80'   

[Between routes #12 and #13, page 330]

Very cool climbing starting with a crack, then a hard techy face, and finally an amazing 5.10+ fingercrack. Solid for the grade.

Start: 15' right of Adirondack Black Fly Rancher below a short fingercrack, 3' right of the arête that divides the Free Wall and the Aid Wall.

P1 5.12a: Up the initial crack, then negotiate a thin, technical face past three bolts (crux) to a striking splitter fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack to its top, which is at the right end of the Touch of Class P1 belay ledge at a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Double set of cams from green C3 to purple Camalot.

Ill Fire (linkup)   5.14a   PG   140'   

It's a toss up between this route and Oppositional Defiance Disorder (the pure trad route of the same grade at the Tsunami Slab at Silver Lake) for the most difficult and demanding climb in the Adirondack Park. Kamitses was finally able to send this after 5 days of effort. Super pumpy and technical.

Start: At the Party Ledge. There are various ways to reach the ledge, the easiest being P1 of Coronary Country.

P1 5.14a PG: Climb Illuminiscence P2 (5.13d) to where it intersects Fire in the Sky (the belay for Children and Alcohol). Continue left and finish on P2 of Fire in the Sky (5.13c). 140'

The Highline   5.13d/5.14-   R   140'   

This follows P2 and P3 of the aid route Pan Am as one long pitch (the first pitch of Pan Am was freed as part of Illuminescence [Route #19, page 334]). Compared to Ill Fire to its left, it has easier cruxes, but more pump.

P2 5.13d/5.14- R: From right end of Party Ledge, climb up the handcrack in the corner behind the cedar tree to gain the top of a pedestal, clip a bolt, then climb up a seam past initial technical and powerful crux clipping two more bolts. At a small overlap, run it out to gain the first good nut and a decent shake. Climb 50' up twin crack system (good gear) past the old hanging belay station to gain a good rest at two-thirds height. Punch it up through the runout redpoint crux—a big move up and right off a flat undercling protected by an RP in a constriction. Balance up to a good stance (cam at your knees), then do the final 5.11 section past another good RP to a fixed anchor. 140'


Little Crow Mountain: Citrus Wall

On the approach to Barney Rubble Wall, the book mentions [page 278] "...an attractive wall with a great-looking steep handcrack..." This is the Citrus Wall, a steep sheer wall with a flat, open, grassy base, named for the distinctive orange lichen that graces the route Orange Crush. The cliff, like it's neighbor Barney Rubble Wall, has an open rocky top with excellent views of the Giant, Hurricane, Dix, and the Great Range.

Descent: Walk left.

Orange Crush   5.10c   G   60'   

Steep crack climbing with an overhanging finish on jugs; juicy and delicious.

Start: At a steep handcrack through orange lichen-covered rock, 4' right a prominent right-facing corner that defines the left end of the cliff.

P1 5.10c G: Jam up the handcrack to where it widens (4" cam helpful). Hand traverse right and mantel onto a ledge, then step back left to the crack line. Move up to a slot (crux) and finish on steep jugs. Belay from large pine trees on top. 60'

Gear: To 4".

Plumb Line   5.9   G   60'

Start: On the right side of the wall, 40' right of Orange Crush, below a handcrack that defines the right side of a black streak.

P1 5.9 G: Up the handcrack to its top, step left, and continue up another crack to lower angled rock which is climbed more easily to the top of the wall. Belay from large pine trees on top. 60'

Gear: To 2".


Little Crow Mountain: Barney Rubble Wall

 The route Welcome to Bedrock is no longer missing bolt hangers, and thus probably gets an extra star. The route requires 5 quickdraws and a 1" cam. [Route #5, page 278]

 The route Betty is a Klepto is no longer missing bolt hangers. The route requires 2 draws and cams to 2". The direct finish above the last bolt is 5.9 G. [Route #7, page 278]

Hollyrock   5.0   R   60'   

An easy solo that provides access to the top of the Citrus Wall and the Barney Rubble Wall. The unique rubble is surprisingly solid with many holds.

Start: Halfway between the Barney Rubble Wall and the Citrus Wall below a slab with glued-on rubble.

P1 5.0 R: Climb up the slab to the rubble, the angle left to the top of the wall.

Yabba Dabba Doo   5.10d   G   40'   

Strenuous and height-related; exceedingly difficult for short climbers.

Start: 5' uphill and left of the left end of the Barney Rubble Wall, just right of a black streak.

P1 5.10d G: Thin face moves lead to a left-facing edge (crux), then move up and right to a good stance. Work up the face past several good horizontal cracks to a final puzzling mantel into a scoop, then step up to the summit. 45'

Gear: Draws plus cams 1 ea 1", 0.25".


Hitchins Pond

Without a Hitch   5.2   G   35'   

An easy climb in a spectacular setting below where the overlook trail emerges from the woods.

Start: Approach from the top: where the trail meets the cliff, scramble down ramped ledges to the (skiers) right (3rd class). Begin below a fingercrack at a flat slab backed by trees.

P1 5.2 G: Climb the fingercrack straight to the overlook above. 35'


Meadow Hill Cliff

Location: Hammond Pond Wild Forest, accessed from Ensign Pond Road

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 50'

Quality:

Description: A small cliff, about 50' high and 150' wide, that faces away from the road and overlooks an attractive wetland and meadow, hence the name. It's sits on a small subsidiary bump of Harris Hill off Ensign Pond Road. The woods in this area feature unparalleled natural beauty, so be especially vigilant to keep the area pristine. There are several unclimbed cracks near My Pleasure, and potential for more difficult routes on the left end. There is some loose rock, and the area is wet.

Approach: 8 min, easy

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 30, travel south on US 9 for 6.8 miles to Caza Turn Road (CR 4) on the left. Turn left, then left again onto Ensign Pond Road. From the Northway (I-87) Exit 29, drive north 2.4 miles to Caza Turn Road (CR 4) on the right. Turn right, then right again onto Ensign Pond Road.

Drive east on Ensign Pond Road for 5.8 miles to the Trout Pond trailhead on the left (south) side of the road. Turn around and drive west for 0.4 miles to a widened shoulder on the right side of the road with plenty of room for several cars 18T 0609944 4874923. This is the first widened shoulder on the right past the yellow "35 MPH" sign.

Walk west on the road for 450' to where a stream runs up against the road on the south side. Cross at its narrowest point; there is a cairn on the far side. Turn right and proceed parallel the road for a few feet under some overhanging outcrops. Step up into the woods (cairn), climb the hill, then hike across the flat top of the hill through open woods. As you descend the other side of the hill, you will reach the top of the cliff 18T 610174 4874799. Turn (skier's) right to descend to the base of the cliff at its left end.

My Pleasure   5.8   PG   45'

Fun moves and reportedly worth the short approach.

Start: Moving right from the left end of the cliff, the first major feature is a large right-facing corner capped by roof 35' up. 30' right is a pile of blocks detached from the cliff. Begin just right of this pile of blocks below an obvious crack.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb the crack past a small overhang 15' up to the top. 45'

Gear: Mostly small: stoppers, small nuts, and cams to 0.5".


Sleeping Beauty

 The dirt road that goes to Dacy Clearing from the Upper Hogtown trailhead did not open during the 2010 season until November. Driving access to Dacy Clearing is currently closed and updated status can be found at http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/9195.html. When the road is closed, the hiking time to Dacy Clearing is approximately 30 minutes and with little change in elevation.


Sleeping Beauty: Circus Wall

Hoops and Yo Yo   5.10a   G   120'   

Start: Same as High Wire.

P1 5.9 G: Move right after the first bolt up under bottom of an arête, past three bolts on the arête to fixed anchor 70'.

P2 5.10a G: (V1) Go right past a bolt to the bottom of a left-facing corner. Up the corner past 3 bolts to a fixed anchor. 50'

V1 Side Show 5.9 PG : Move left past a bolt to the base of a crack. Follow right-leaning crack through center of the face to the shared fixed anchor with Hoops and Yo Yo.

War of the Worlds   5.10a   G   170'   

Start: 45' right of High Wire, in the center of a face with a bolt.

P1 5.9 PG: Climb up face past 2 bolts to right-facing corner and ledge. From ledge, continue up corner to a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.10a G: (V1) Follow large corner-roof to its top. Move right and continue up right-leaning crack past a bolt to a horizontal. Continue up crack and horizontals to a fixed anchor. 90'

V1 Vendetta 5.10b G : Continue straight up from anchor through roof (bolts) to a shallow left-facing corner. Work up the corner, then up face past (bolt) to the fixed anchor.

Gear: To 4".


Sleeping Beauty: Tang Wall

Not Long For This World   5.8   G   45'

[Between routes #7 and #8, page 431]

The entire section of cliff is poorly attached to the rest of the mountain, hence the name.

Start: On the left wall of the Sizzle Me right-facing corner, at a handcrack running from lower right to upper left.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack and step up onto a ledge. 45'

Gear: Double cams from 1-1/2" to 3".

Descent: Walk left to the anchors on Sundowner Crack.


Shelving Rock

Location: North of NY 149 on the east shore of Lake George, accessed from Northway Exit 20

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 160'

Quality: ****

Description: This long cliff rises above the eastern shore of Lake George. It has long been a curiosity of local climbers, but it wasn't until recently that it's seen development. The cliff features a lot of choss, but the routes documented here (mostly) stick to the better sections of rock. Large talus fields and fresh rock debris skirt the base of this cliff so watch your footing (and poison ivy) as you approach your climbs. As with any recently developed cliffs, helmets are recommended for both the leader and belayer. Test your holds before weighting them and place protection often. The rock is similar to that of nearby Sleeping Beauty, and like its neighbor, has one of the longest climbing seasons in the park. And you can't beat the location—full sun in the afternoon with outstanding views of Lake George.

Due to a cell tower at the Sagamore Resort across the lake, the cliff and parking area have good cell reception. The last 4 miles of the road is a steep dirt road that is subject to closure during mud season (April–May) and can be impassable in midwinter after heavy snow.

Many of the routes are "modern trad", meaning fixed protection and gear; don't expect many clip ups. The majority of routes are well protected, and all of them have fixed anchors. Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on small cams and wires.

Six different sections of the cliff have been developed. From left to right, they are the Carhartt Wall, Main Face, Neanderthal Cave, Big Wall, Jackass Buttress and Politico Wall.

Camping: Sleeping Beauty and Shelving Rock are on a dead-end dirt road with excellent opportunities for car camping. Designated sites are posted on a map at a kiosk that is found at the Upper Hogtown trailhead where the dirt road begins its steep descent from the large parking area on the right. There's also a good bivvy spot at the base of the cliff (no water).

Approach: 4–20 min, easy

Directions: Follow the directions to Sleeping Beauty to the Upper Hogtown trailhead (page 430). Continue on Shelving Rock Road for several miles past a bridge and the Shelving Rock Mountain trailhead on the right. Park 0.5 mile past this trailhead at a parking area on the left; this is parking for a carriage road that leads to the shore, a large lot delineated with boulders 18T 0612838 4823456, and signposted "Parking Area 4". Beyond the parking area, the road continues on to private property with no parking or camping.

From the parking area, continue down the road for 30', and look for a herd path on the opposite side of the road from the parking area. There is a fallen 3'-diameter tree, 20' up the path that one must step over. Follow the herd path north, contour uphill, and stay below the talus fields and cliff bands to the right. Specific spur trails are described in the approaches to the different cliff sections.


Shelving Rock: Carhartt Wall

The leftmost section of the Shelving Rock cliff system is very wide and impressive, but most of it is on private property, thereby restricting climbing to a 50'-wide section on its far right end known as the Carhartt Wall. There are signs for private land on trees below the cliff with occasional yellow DEC paint marks; there's also a 3'-tall yellow stripe on the cliff to the left of the routes marking the start of the private land.

The left side of the Carhartt Wall has a 100'-tall sheer face above a tan-colored slab. Most of this section is spectacular face climbing—the "Spider's Web of face climbing", as some have called it. A distinctive feature on this section is the shallow, blocky, right-facing corner of The Fancy Cat. To the right of the sheer wall (and just left of center on the wall) are two stacked arêtes—a lower, black arête that leans to the right, above which is a left-leaning arête (the route Vagtastic Voyage) that extends to the top of the cliff. The large right-facing, left-leaning corner to the right of the upper arête is the route The Three Stooges that begins at a sloping ledge halfway up the cliff's right side. Carhartt Confidential ascends the most prominent crack on the wall and begins from this ledge. The bottom of the cliff has a right-rising band of dike rock above a narrow ledge with several trees. All of the routes begin on this ledge and cross the dike rock.

Descent: This is a tall wall that is best descended with a 70m rope, or two ropes. A rappel with a 60m rope is possible from the top of Three Stooges.

Directions: Follow the path toward the Main Face. Continue past the turnoff for the Main Face and stay below the talus until you reach crest, then descend gently downhill for 400'. Next, ascend steeply for 150' to a long, semi-level bench (there is a campfire ring and view here). Walk along the bench to its far end, then go uphill across a short talus field to the base of the cliff. Walk left along the base of the cliff for 100' to reach the Carhartt Wall at its right end. Hiking time from the main path is 10 min.

Alternatively, follow the base of the cliff from the left end of the Main Wall. Hike for 5 min to the top of a talus field, then continue for another 100' to reach the Carhartt Wall at its right end.

Unnamed01 Project

Begin At the left end of the tree-covered ledge where 3rd class steps go up and left to a more exposed ledge. Scramble 3rd class ledges up and right to an open book that is right of the long, sloping, tan-colored slab and left of the low, black arête. Go up the open book, then left above the sloping slab to a stance beneath a right-facing, left-leaning corner that begins 8' above the ledge. Work up the sheer face, stay right of the corner, go over a small overlap and then left past orange rock to the left end of a bulging wall. Climb around the left side of the bulge and move rightward to a fixed anchor 5' below the top of the cliff. 110'.

The Fancy Cat   5.12a   G   110'   

Start: Go to the left end of the tree-covered ledge where 3rd class steps go up and left to a more exposed ledge. Scramble 3rd class ledges up and right to an open book, then left along the top of the slab to the base of a right-leaning, right-facing corner capped by a small overhang.

P1 5.12a G: Go up the corner then move right to the base of the long, gently-overhanging, shallow, right-facing, right-leaning, blocky corner. Sustained climbing up the corner ends in a slot–crack system; follow this to a fixed anchor shared with Unnamed01. 110'

Gear: Draws plus standard rack to 2".

Cosmic Ripple   5.12b   G   110'   

Start: Toward the left end of the tree-covered ledge, beneath the low, black arête and several, short right-rising ledges in dike rock.

P1 5.12b G: Work up the ledges and a smooth wall to a long, right-rising ledge. Continue above the ledge on gray rock and go around the left side of the black arête to its top. Pull onto the overhanging, sheer face and go past a small overhang to a stance below a discontinuous crack. Up the crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Work up the wall, stay right of a long overhang, and follow a right-rising seam in orange rock to a ledge where it joins Vagtastic Voyage. Climb a headwall and an arête on the right to a fixed anchor. 110'.

Gear: Draws plus 0.75".

Vagtastic Voyage   5.11c   G   110'   

Start: In the middle of the tree-covered ledge, 10' left of a detached, hourglass-shaped pillar, below a right-rising ramp–ledge that begins 10' up.

P1 5.11c G: Climb dike rock to the ramp–ledge which is followed right to short, left-facing corners with ledges. Up the corners and ledges to an overlap. Go past the overlap and up to a large, triangular ceiling. Work out the left side of the ceiling then move back right across a sheer face (crux) to a long, left-rising arête. Climb the arête past a large horn, then trend up the left side of the arête on a steepening face to a ledge below a headwall where it joins Cosmic Ripple. Climb the headwall (not easy) and an arête on the right to a fixed anchor. 110'

Gear: To 0.5".

Three Stooges   5.10b   G   100'   

Start: Same as Three Degrees of Separation.

P1 5.10b G: Follow Three Degrees of Separation to the sloping ledge. Step left and go up a deep, right-facing, left-leaning corner. Move right at a vertical crack, then back left into a higher, right-facing corner that is climbed to the top of the cliff and a fixed anchor. 110'

Carhartt Confidentials   5.10c   G (5.7 R)   100'   

The original route on the wall, and totally trad. The name comes from the padding that was put in the sharp crack to protect the rope during its first ascent. The runnout start can be avoided by climbing Three Degrees of Separation to the sloping ledge.

Start: At the right side of the tree-covered ledge, next to a detached, hourglass-shaped pillar.

P1 5.10c G (5.7R): Climb the pillar then up left-facing corners with ledges (small gear) to steep orange rock (5.7 R) and a left-facing corner. Go up the corner to a broad, sloping ledge beneath a prominent vertical crack that goes to the top of the cliff. The crack widens from finger to a body-sized slot. Exit the slot to the left and follow the crack as it widens again (3.5") and bends to the right and becomes a left-facing corner. Finish at a fixed anchor shared with Three Degrees of Separation. 110'

Descent: The fixed anchor is not equipped for rappel. Make a short rappel, from trees, to the fixed anchors at the top of routes to the left.

Gear: To 3.5"

Three Degrees of Separation   5.10a   G   100'   

A tremendous pitch that ascends striking features on the right side of the wall. Exposed, sustained, with varied cruxes.

Start: At the right end of the tree-covered ledge, on a narrow ledge below blocky dike rock.

P1 5.10a G: Climb steepening rock on generous holds, initially trending to the right then back left to the left end of a sloping ledge. Reach right to top out on the sloping ledge and then tackle a steep fingercrack in a left-facing corner. Exit the corner at an exposed stance on the right margin on the wall. Move up a step to the base of a high arête and start up its right side, then work left (exposed) to a small stance below the top. Finish at the fixed anchor shared with Carhartt Confidentials. 110'

Descent: The fixed anchor is not equipped for rappel. Make a short rappel, from trees, to the fixed anchors at the top of routes to the right.

Gear: Bolts plus 1 ea Camalots #1, #0.5.

The Cenotaph   5.10a   G   70'   

Start: Just right of Three Degrees of Separation.

P1 5.10a G: Follow a line of bolts trending right to the top of the "tombstone". The final 20' is easier if you stay left of the bolts, then cross right at the last bolt. 70'


Shelving Rock: Main Wall

This section of cliff is over 200' wide and rises above the highest stretch of talus field. The Main Wall was the first section to be developed, has seen the most climber traffic, and contains some of the best rock. The left end is at a height of land and has a very large, bottomless, right-facing dihedral 70' up, below which is a giant hanging cedar tree. Most of the routes are approximately 100' long and a few have second pitches that climb to the top of the cliff.

Directions: Hike beneath a small talus field above which is the Politico Wall, 2 min from the trailhead. Continue uphill to within 100' of the cliff where the path levels off, near the point where a spur trail on the right (cairn) is reached at 4 min. (This spur trail goes up a forested slope to a broad gully and the Jackass Buttress.) Continue on the main path along a level bench and beneath a larger talus field and the highest section of the cliff (the Big Wall). Avoid the temptation to go up to early. Walk past several refrigerator-sized boulders, past the spur path to the Carhartt Wall on the left, then hike slightly right to a higher bench. From the higher bench, enter the talus field and cut directly uphill and reach the cliff at the right end of the Main Wall 18T 0612781 4823979, about 15 min from the trailhead.

Protractor   5.8   PG   80'   

Angular climbing with Gunks-style roofs and exposure. The final traverse, although easy, has sparse protection.

Start: 100' left of the start of Snake Charmer and a bottomless right-facing dihedral 70' up, beneath a large open-book capped by a roof 20' up.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb the easy open-book to the roof, then traverse right along a roof crack. Follow the crack that becomes vertical to a higher roof. Traverse left along a wide crack (easy) to an exposed stance beneath a right-facing flake. Go up the flake (strenuous) to a ledge. Traverse right to fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Standard rack plus an optional 5" cam.

Snake Charmer   5.9   G   100'   

Start: Just right of the bottomless right-facing dihedral 70' up, at a blocky, right-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.9 G: Up the blocky corner to a vertical, right-facing corner at its top. Climb the corner with a crack that narrows from hand to finger size at an overhang. Pass the overhang (crux) and follow the fingercrack to a ledge. Above the ledge is an open book. Traverse right, then up and back left to exit the open book onto a traverse ledge. Protect the second (0.5 in cam) and traverse right 20' a fixed anchor shared with Hackett Corner. 100'

Gear: Standard rack; bring long slings.

Hackett Corner   5.10a   G   100'   

Steep, featured rock. Often wet.

Start: Same as Snake Charmer.

P1 5.10a G: Go halfway up the blocky right-facing corner, then up a shallow, right-facing corner in black rock (15' right of the Snake Charmer corner) to a right-facing slot. Up the slot, then work up and right, staying right of a pointed prow, to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner to a lone birch tree and a fixed anchor shared with Snake Charmer. 100'

Gear: To 2". A 2" cam protects the moves up to the shallow right-facing corner.

Thunder Down Under   510c   G (5.7 R)   100'   

Although the initial corner has superb climbing that is independent of the neighboring routes, the upper half of the route is squeezed in. A top rope directional bolt is located between the fixed anchors of Hackett Corner and Grin and Bear It.

Start: Same as Grin and Bear It.

P1 5.10c G (5.7 R): Scramble up blocks to a shallow, right-facing, right-leaning corner that is 10' right of the Hackett Corner. Up the corner in fantastic black rock (small wires) to a ledge shared with Grin and Bear it. Move up and left (5.7 R) of an arête with a ceiling. Go over the ceiling and climb easier rock (5.7 R) up and right to the fixed anchor of Grin and Bear It. 100'

Gear: Small wires, gear to 0.5".

Grin and Bear It   5.8+   G   100'   

Start: 10' right of the left-rising, blocky, right-facing corner of Snake Charmer, below a left-facing flake 20' up.

P1 5.8+ G: Scramble up blocks to the flake, then power to its top on good holds. Move right into shallow corners then back left to a ledge below a deep right-facing corner (0.5" cam in corner). Move up and left off the ledge to a slab with a thin crack that is climbed to an overlap. Work past the overlap (crux, small wires and cams) and into an open book. Move up and right to a fixed anchor on a large cedar tree. 100'

The Price is Right   5.11a   G   100'   

Start: Same as Gong Show.

P1 5.11a G: Start up Gong Show then go straight up a black slab to the right end of a long overhang. Pull the overhang and climb over a short overhang to a long slab with an arête at its top. Climb the slab and arête then traverse right to the fixed anchor of Gong Show. 100'

The Gong Show   5.9-   G   100'   

A short crux with lots of moderate climbing above makes this route a popular warm up.

Start: 25' right of the left-rising blocky corner of Snake Charmer, below the left end of a long ceiling 20' up.

P1 5.9- G: Scramble up blocky terrain to the ceiling. Break through the ceiling on its left side at a jug (crux), then right onto the face above the ceiling. Go straight up to a left-facing corner formed by a huge "gong" flake. At the top of the flake, move up and left across a beautiful, clean face to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus 2–3" cams.

Doodle Bug   5.9-   PG   100'   

Sustained and varied climbing. Not as innocent as the name suggests. Often wet.

Start: 45' downhill and right of the left-rising blocky corner of Snake Charmer, at a short left-leaning crack that begins at head height with a right-facing corner to its right.

P1 5.9- PG: Up the crack (or corner) to a ledge with loose blocks. Step onto a steepening face with dark rock and trend leftwards to a ledge. Reach into a high crack and follow it to a slab. Go up the slab to a right-leaning seam beneath an overhanging wall (small gear). Move up and right to a fixed anchor at the top of an orange streak. 100'

Rock Lobster   5.9+   G   100'   

Start: At a right-facing corner with stacked but secure blocks, 10' right of Doodle Bug.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the corner, then work up and right to a broken, open book with a steep wall above it. Pull over the steep wall (crux) and go up to a right-rising arête. Either climb past the arête directly or pass it on the left (easier), to a slab below a prominent arête with an overlap in its left side. Go around the right side of the arête, then up it to an exposed move to the left at its top. Climb easy, but unprotected rock to the fixed anchor shared with Doodle Bug. 100'

Footloose   5.10d   PG (5.4 R)   180'   

P1 has good stances from which to place overhead protection and makes for a good warm up. P2 is long, involved and has a desperate (but well protected) crux.

Start: 60' uphill and left of the lowest point of the cliff and 20' right of the Doodle Bug corner, at a right-leaning hand- and off-width crack.

P1 5.10a G: Up the crack to a ledge beneath tiered overhangs. Mantle onto a small ledge then pull an overhang to a slab. Go over another overhang and traverse a slab to the right. Step up into a right-facing corner and follow a slab up and right to a fixed anchor. 90'

P2 5.10d (5.4 R): Continue up the slab and right-facing corner. Make a long reach to the right and pull onto another slab and right-facing corner. When the slab ends, climb up through rotten rock (5.4 R) to a bottomless, right-facing corner. Climb the left wall of the corner (watch for rope drag) to an exposed stance beneath a right-rising fin. Layback the fin (crux) and pull onto a ledge beneath a deep V-slot. Stem the slot and exit left onto blocky terrain. Belay at a tree with a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Standard rack with many long slings.

Descent: Rappel 90' down the slot (on P2) to the fixed anchor at the top of Just Take It, then another rappel to the ground.

Dirty Dancing   5.10d   R   90'   

Start: 15' left of Just Take It at an overhanging wall with right-leaning seams.

P1 5.10d R: Up the steep rock to a small ledge beneath a 4'-wide ceiling. Pass the ceiling on its left end and move up a broad, square slab. Go up a steep orange wall (that is left of a ledge) to a short ceiling (crux). Pass the ceiling and continue straight up a steep slab to the fixed anchor of Footloose. 90'

Just Take It   5.11d   G   100'   

Start: 20' uphill and left Rusty Lumberjack below a left-facing, light-colored flake.

P1 5.11d G: Up the flake (2" cam), right through a bulge to a right-facing, right-leaning corner. Break out left from the corner, then straight up the face to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws plus a 2" cam.

Rusty Lumberjack   5.11b   PG   100'   

Start: At a refrigerator-sized boulder at the lowest point of the cliff.

P1 5.11b PG: Up a sandy, flaky face, then up a right-facing open book to a ceiling. Break left, then up a right-leaning dihedral with a crack. At its top, go up an orange face to an overlap, then right to a fixed anchor shared with Claim Jumper. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Claim Jumper   5.11b   G   100'   

Start: 10' right of Rusty Lumberjack below a low ceiling with a shattered left-facing corner above it.

P1 5.11b G: Up the corner to a stance on the right, then muscle through an orange ceiling to an overhang. Through the overhang (crux), then make big moves to big holds on a clean orange face. Break right, then straight up a crack to a fixed anchor shared with Rusty Lumberjack. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Project X   5.12a   G   100'   

Start: 20' right of Rusty Lumberjack at a chest-high ceiling with a broken slab above it.

P1 5.12a G: Up the slab to the right end of a ceiling, then power through the ceiling on crimpy holds (1st crux) to a stance. Over a second ceiling, up an orange face, then follow a right-leaning crack to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Infinity and Beyond   5.10b   PG   180'   

Although the first pitch has a reachy crux, two of the first ascentionists were less than 5'7".

Start: Below the left side of a large, detached flake below a prominent right-leaning crack that defines the left side of a clean shield of white rock. This is where the terrain begins to slope steeply downward to the left.

P1 5.10b PG: Climb the left side of the detached flake then move left to the bottom of the crack. Follow the crack to an overhang that is passed on the right. Step back into the crack and go up through featured rock until it is possible to reach left to a left-leaning rail. Traverse left along the rail (wingspan dependent) and mantel onto a sloping stance below a vertical crack. Go up the crack to the fixed anchor shared with Project X. 90'

P2 5.10b G: Continue up the crack that leans to the right (crux). Move up and left across easier, but rotten, rock to overhangs below the final headwall. Pass the first overhang to its left then weave right around the next. Make and exposed step to the right into a right-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'

Descent: Rappel the route.

Infinity Crack   5.12a   G (5.8 R)   100'   

Start: Same as Infinity and Beyond.

P1 5.12a G (5.8 R): Climb the left side of the flake to its top then step onto the cliff where the crack bulges. Follow the crack as it tappers to a seam. Make powerful underclings with poor feet (crux) along the crack. At its top (join Knights That Say Neigh), traverse right 10' until it is possible to break a ceiling and onto the face above. Follow a horizontal crack to the left then go up a vertical crack to fixed anchors on a ledge. 100'

Gear: To 2".

Monty Python   5.10b   PG   180'   

Start: At the high point of the terrain, 10' right of a large, detached, blocky flake, and 25' left of the large left-facing corner of Shake and Bake.

P1 5.10a G: Up a gray face, then trend left to a right-leaning, left-facing ramp. Up the ramp to a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then angle right across the wall following a crack to a ledge beneath a headwall. Up the headwall to a left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.10b PG: Traverse 25' left on the ledge to the fixed anchor of Knights That Say Neigh. Go up and left to a small ledge, then up a clean corner with small crack. Work up the crack a few feet then step left around an arête and continue up face to a fixed anchor. 80'

Descent: Rappel to Knights That Say Neigh anchor, then another rappel to the ground.

Knights That Say Neigh   5.11b   PG (5.8R)   90'   

Start: Same as Monty Python.

P1 5.11b PG (5.8 R): Begin Monty Python: go up a gray face, trend left to a right-leaning, left-facing ramp. Climb a thin crack in a shear face that is left of the right-rising slab of Monty Python. When the crack ends at a left-rising overhang, go over it and into the prominent right-rising ceiling that cuts across the cliff. Traverse right for 10' until it is possible to break the ceiling and onto the face above. Follow a horizontal crack to the left then go up a vertical crack to fixed anchors on a ledge. 90'

Holy Grail   5.10c   PG   100'   

Start: On a table-sized boulder at the height of land, midway between a large, detached flake on the left and a large, left-facing corner on the right.

P1 5.10c PG: Climb up to a ceiling that has a short, 5"-wide, parallel-sided slot. Go up the slot and climb a short open book to a vertical face. Work up the face past a vertical crack to a ledge, then join Monty Python up the headwall to a left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 100'

Unnamed04 Project

An open project, perhaps in the 5.12 range. Begin at the fixed anchors at the top of P1 of Monty Python. A line extends above the anchor and begins with a ledge then follows right-facing flakes and overhangs.

Shake and Bake   5.8-   G   80'   

Often wet, but a convenient way to the top of the buttress.

Start: At the height of land in a large, left-facing corner on the left side of a clean buttress.

P1 5.8- G: Up the corner to a fixed anchor at the top of the buttress. 80'

Stake and Cake   5.10a   PG   170'   

Start: Just right of the left-facing corner of Shake and Bake, below the prow of a clean buttress.

P1 5.10a PG: Up an open book in the prow of the buttress (5" cam on the left), then up the prow to another open book that is climbed a fixed anchor at the top of the buttress. 80'

P2 5.9 + PG: Go up a short corner to a ledge and traverse to its right end. Move right over an overhang to the base of a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The corner defines the right end of the tall, black wall with tiered overhangs. Follow the corner until it is possible to break out left and climb to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 1" plus 1 ea 5" cam.

Wake and Cake   5.9   G   80'   

Start: At blocks left of Wake and Bake.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the blocks, then up a thin crack in face left of Wake and Bake to its end. Traverse left and join the arête of Stake and Cake to its finish. 80'

Wake and Bake   5.10a   G   170'   

Climbs the clean face right of the prow of Stake and Cake.

Start: At the base of a right-facing corner, which is the next corner to the right of the large Shake and Bake corner.

P1 5.10a G: Up easy rock to an overlap. Move right then climb the center of the face until it is possible to make move left (crux) to a rail, and then back right to the top of the buttress. Scramble to the fixed anchor shared with the neighboring routes. 80'

P2 5.10b G: Go up a short corner to a ledge and traverse to its right end (same as Stake and Cake P2). Start up a black-streaked wall with tiered overhangs, then up to a right-rising overhang that is above light-colored rock. Move over the overhang then work left to a fixed anchor (shared with Stake and Cake). 90'

Gear: To 1".

Line of Fire   5.10c   G   90'   

An alternate finish to Wake and Bake. The best of the upper pitches on the black wall.

Start: At the top of P1 of Wake and Bake.

P1 5.10c G: Climb a broken, right-facing corner to a stance at its top next to a cedar shrub. Pull onto a vertical face with superb water-worn crimps and knobs. Go up the face (crux) to an overhang and pass this on the right. Work back left and escape onto easier terrain that is followed up and right to a shared fixed anchor. 90'

Kid Rock   5.9   TR   90'

Using the Princess Bride anchor, climb the face between Princess Bride and Wake and Bake. Good climbing, but contrived.

Princess Bride   5.5   G   90'

Start: Right of Wake and Bake in a broken corner.

P1 5.5 G: Climb stacked corners to face climbing past semi-dead pine, and then step left onto rock steps that are climbed to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 3".


Shelving Rock: Neanderthal Cave

This section of rock is 200' right of where the main herd path reaches the Main Wall.

Directions: From the right end of the Main Wall, go slightly downhill along the cliff base to a steep, blocky arête with a sheer, overhanging, right-hand wall. Protruding Forehead begins to the right of this arête. Further right the wall become concave and has five, large right-facing corners that are above a stepped slab.

Unnamed06 Project

There is a rope hanging down a tall buttress.

Ghost Boner   5.10b   G   70'   QUALITY

Start: 20' left of Dweezil and 5' right of a high bolt.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up to a low roof and go left onto a slab. Move up and left (crux) to a crack in a slab. Follow the crack to its end then traverse right to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: to 2".

Left Out   5.8   G   70'   

Start: At a curving flake 35' left of Dweezil.

P1 5.8 G: Go up the flake, step right onto slab, then back left to slanting corner. Up corner to near its top, then (V1) fun moves lead left to a fixed anchor. 70'

V1 Left In 5.7 G: Continue up right to the fixed anchor of Breaking Bad.

Gear: To 3".

Breaking Bad   5.8+   G   70'   

Start: Below a line of black bolts in a slanting dihedral.

P1 5.8+ G: Follow the slanting dihedral to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Dweezil   5.7+   G   65'   

Start: 10' left of Sub-Dude and a few feet right of a big, loose corner.

P1 5.7+ G: Up shallow corner to an overlap. Go up across slab and then up a steep wall on jugs to a fixed anchor. 65'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Sub-Dude   5.7   G   75'   

Start: 10' left of Devo.

P1 5.7 G: Up steep wall to overlap, which is climbed on the left to a good crack. Up the crack in a slab to a steep, right-rising ramp, which is followed to a fixed anchor.

Gear: Quickdraws.

Devo   5.8   G   95'   

Start: At a low-angled face left around corner of the Neanderthal Cave.

P1 5.8 G: Climb face through 3 bulging overhangs angling slightly right after the third to a steep wall. Continue straight up and then slightly left to a fixed anchor on thin slab. 95'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Diva   5.10a   G   95'   

Devious climbing, harder to read than the typical Shelving Rock route.

Start: 10' right of Devo.

P1 5.10a G: Follow bolts through a series of three bulges. Cross Devo on a steep section on good holds to a fixed anchor. 95'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Protruding Forehead   5.10d   G   60'   

Start: Midway along the overhanging wall and beneath an orange-striped flake with horn 15' up.

P1 5.10d G: Up the flake to the horn to gain a right-rising crack. Follow the crack to the right, through an A-frame overhang 25' up. Continue along the crack then work up the shear face to a ledge. Step right to an overhanging left-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: To 1.5".

Knuckle-Dragger   5.9   G   80'   

Start: At blocks that lead up to a sloping dirt ledge.

P1 5.9 G: Scramble up to a thin, vertical crack and climb it to the right end of a long, right-facing overhang. Go around the right end of the overhang and up to a stance beneath a long, right-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Climb flakes and move around the right end of the ceiling (crux). Step left across a slab to regain the corner that is followed to its top and a fixed anchor on the right. 80'

Cro-Magnon   5.9+   PG   80'   

Start: On a sloping dirt ledge, scramble up blocks from the base of the cliff.

P1 5.9+ PG: Follow ledges to a slab beneath a right-facing corner. Move left to a thin vertical crack on the right side on a blunt arête. Up a thin crack (crux) that is followed by a shallow, right-facing corner and the fixed anchor shared with Knuckle-Dragger. 80'

Homo   5.7   PG   50'   

Start: On a sloping dirt ledge, scramble up blocks from the base of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Follow ledges to a slab beneath a right-facing corner that is climbed to a fixed anchor. 50'

Yabba Dabba Do   5.9   G   80'   

Start: Same as Homo.

P1 5.9 G: Go up and right to a shear wall (bolt) that is climbed to a ledge below an overhang with a right-rising crack above it. Follow the crack to a slab and up to the base of a buttress. Work up the buttress to a fixed anchor at its top. 80'


Shelving Rock: Big Wall

Description: Located 200' right of the Neanderthal Cave and 200' left of the Jackass Buttress at the tallest section of cliff, this shear wall has overhangs and ceilings that stretch across the middle of many of the routes. The cliff base is totally open with no trees, and has tons of debris with room-sized boulders. The open base provides the best views of the lake, but makes for a hot place to climb during the second half of the day. The rock here is blocky but not friable, and requires a good deal of searching to find the best holds. Several of the cruxes involve powerful underclings.

Directions: The easiest approach is from the left end of the Jackass Buttress. Go uphill and left along the base of the cliff then drop down below three room-sized boulders and traverse to a small talus field that is below the left end of the Big Wall near the start of Pinching One Off. Die by the Drop and Johnny Tsunami are reached by scrambling right over the middle and rightmost boulders. Begin Gyroscopic Tendencies by walking around the boulders to the right end of the wall.

Enduro Man   5.10c   G   160'   

Start: Lowest point of the wall, right of a blocky, overhanging, left-facing corner.

P1 5.10c G: Climb a white calcite strip on overhanging rock to a small ledge 15' up. Move up and left across steepening rock to a right-facing, overhanging corner. Go up the corner, then pull over a bulge onto lower angled rock which is climbed to a fixed anchor below a bulging wall. 60'

P2 5.10c G: Go over the bulging wall and follow a left-rising seam, staying left of a large prow with a left-facing corner on its left side. Climb the corner then straight up a face, past a horizontal crack to a stance below a ceiling high on the cliff. Pull the ceiling on its left side and step into a left-facing corner that is followed to a fixed anchor on the right. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Gotta Go   5.9+   G   195'   

One of the more exposed and adventuresome routes on the Big Wall. First route on the Big Wall.

Start: At an 6'-tall open book in a bulging buttress with a widening black streak on its right side.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the open book and go up a slab to broken, overhanging wall that faces right and leads to a ledge. Move up and right to a long ceiling (climbed via a small crimp) that leads to rails. Follow the rails to an overhang on the right. Climb the overhang on its right side, then up easier rock to a right-facing corner with a fixed anchor at its top. 95'

P2 5.9+ G: Traverse left across a grey slab to a deep, right-facing corner which is followed to a face below a tiered ceiling. Climb the face, then go over a ceiling and follow a right-rising seam until it is possible to move up and right to a fixed anchor at the very top of the cliff. 100'

Gear: To 1.5".

Pinching One Off   5.12a   G   90'   

Some say that underclinging the first ceiling is the crux, while others do battle at the second.

Start: At the top of the talus field, 20' right of a wet spot at the base of the cliff and 20' left of a boulder cave, at a left-rising rail 8' up.

P1 5.12a G: Follow the rail to an overlap, then up steep, blocky rock to a ceiling. Make a powerful undercling move to clear the ceiling and continue up to a long right-rising ceiling in the center of the wall. Trend up and right, staying right of the bolts (spooky clips), until it is possible to step left over the ceiling and onto a black, low-angled face. Climb water-worn rock to a fixed anchor. 90'

Anal Retention   5.11b   G   90'   

Start: Left of the boulder cave, beneath a discontinuous, right-facing corner 8' up.

P1 5.11b G: Up the corner for 25' to a short overhang then move left to easier climbing that is ends at tiered overhangs. Strenuous undercling moves and sloping footholds gain positive flakes on a shear gray wall. Make a long reach left to a blocky roof, then work right to a broken, right-rising ceiling. Over the ceiling on its right end, then step left onto a slab and follow a left-facing corner to an easy ceiling with a fixed anchor above it. 90'.

Coprophagia Project

A new line between Anal Retention and Die by the Drop.

Die by the Drop   5.10c   G   90'   

Start: On top of the middle boulder at a couple of chest-sized boulders, beneath a right-facing flake.

P1 5.10c G: Climb the flake to shallow opposing corners. Exit the corners (crux) to the left to a stance beneath a prow. Move right beneath the prow into a right-facing, blocky corner. Go up the sustained corner to a left-rising overhang. Step right over the overhang to a ledge beneath an off-vertical face. Make a bouldery move up the face and then climb easily up and left to a fixed anchor left of a cedar tree. 90'

Johnny Tsunami   5.10b   G   90'   

A great introduction to the Big Wall. This route features a gymnastic roof move (hang ten!), an exposed crux high above the ground, and a devious facing climbing to the anchor.

Start: On top of the rightmost boulder, 4' left of a deep, right-facing corner.

P1 5.10b G: Up a blocky, vertical wall to the center of a ceiling that has an overhanging wall beneath its right side. Go up the wall then reach right to a jug at the lip and pull onto a slab in a deep, left-facing corner. Follow the corner to tiered ceilings with jugs. At the lip of the ceiling make a hard move into a left-facing corner that is climbed to a ledge with a bulging black wall above it. Work up and left across the wall to a fixed anchor right of a cedar tree. 90'

Gyroscopic Tendencies   5.9+   G   100'   QUALITY

Start: Right of the rightmost boulder.

P1 5.9+ G: Follows a long right-facing corner. 100'


Shelving Rock: Jackass Buttress

Description: This buttress forms the left (north) wall of a broad gully that separates the cliffband into two sections. The base of the buttress extends uphill to the left (towards The O'Barrett Factor), where it merges with the tallest section of the cliff, and uphill to the right (towards Winds of Change) where it diminishes in height at the top of the gully.

Directions: Up the main herd path for 4 minutes to a spur path on the right (cairn). Follow the spur path as it climbs a forested slope and enters a 70'-wide talus gully that provides access to the top. Stay left to reach the northern edge of the gully and arrive at the cliff, near The Cold Bare Rapport, at 8 min.

Old School   5.8   G   60'   

Vollkommer's first route at Shelving Rock.

Start: At the top of the hill, at a slab that is below a left-facing corner.

P1 5.10a PG: Follow the corner to a tree with a fixed anchor. 60'

The O'Barrett Factor   5.10a   PG   100'   

Start: At the left side of the buttress, uphill and 40' left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base, at a large cedar stump.

P1 5.10a PG: Climb an easy flake and go left to a short slab that is beneath a 1' x 1' overhang. Above the overhang is a tall, clean orange face; climb the left side of the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 100'

Democralypse Now   5.10a   G   100'   

Still some loose stuff to be cleaned.

Start: 15' left of where the spur path reaches the cliff at a chest-high, right-facing overhang beneath a 15'-tall slab.

P1 5.10a G: Climb the slab to a ceiling that becomes a right-facing corner. Move right over a bulge and into the right-facing corner. Exit left onto a slab and climb up to a steep wall with tiered overhangs. Work over the overhangs then step left around a large right-facing corner to a tall, clean orange face. Climb the right side of the face to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 1".

The Cold Bare Rapport   5.8-   G   90'   

Start: Between two, 8'-tall blocky pillars that are beneath a triangle-shaped face with a horn on top, where the spur path meets the cliff.

P1 5.8- G: Climb the triangle-shaped face, step left onto a slab that is crossed to its left side. Step left over the right end of tiered overhangs, move toward a right-facing corner and then climb up and right across a slab to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: 1 ea 0.5" cam.

Indecision '08   5.7   TR   75'

Begin around on the right side of the buttress, facing the gully, at a left-rising crack just left of Winds of Change. Climb the crack to the fixed anchor shared with Winds of Change.

Winds of Change   5.8+   G   75'   

Start: From where the approach trail reaches the base of the cliff, walk 30' right, then 30' up the gully along a steep herd path. Begin at three, 5'-tall, right-facing right-leaning corners below a jutting, diamond-shaped block.

P1 5.8+ G: Step up to the block and go over it to a featured face. Climb past a right-rising crack and a bulge to a left-rising crack that is followed to a ledge. Go up and right to a fixed anchor on top of the buttress. 75'

Gear: To 1".


Shelving Rock: desert shield area

This is the "apron"-like area right of Jackass Buttress, and up left around the corner from Caribou Barbie. Routes are 40-'65' tall with less than ideal rock. The rock is one level above choss, and so much stuff pulled off during cleaning that the base looked like a bomb went off.

The routes Shelving Rock Earth Penetrator, WMD, and Shock and Awe are very easy and used by local guides. long slings are recommended to reduce rope drag.

Rumney but Crumbly   5.9   G   60'

Steep and juggy.

Start: At the left line of bolts.

P1 5.9 G: Go up big holds moving left at 3rd bolt and up to tree anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws.

El Kabong   5.10a   PG   60'

Start: Same as Rumney but Crumbly.

P1 5.10a PG: Surf up right to triangle flake. Up slightly left to a fixed anchor shared with Static Cringe. 60'

Gear: Draws.

Static Cringe   5.7   PG   60'

Start: At outside corner–crack that diagonals left.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the corner–crack to fixed anchor left of tree. 60'

Wolfshack Corner   5.5   G   60'

Doesn't actually climb the big corner at all.

Start: Locate the big corner, and begin at slab 6' left of corner.

P1 5.5 G: Up slab to a big chockstone. Step out right into bottomless corner and up to fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 2".

B.O. Plenty   5.10c   G   60'

Start: At the large corner.

P1 5.10c G: Climb steep right-facing flakes to tree anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws.

Shelving Rock Earth Penetrator   5.6   G   50'

Start: 6' left of oak.

P1 5.6 G: Diagonal left through a small easy roof to anchor on left side of dirty gully. 50'

Gear: Draws.

WMD   5.6   G   50'

Start: The middle line of bolts behind oak.

P1 5.6 G: Go up the face aiming for the topless hemlock (still alive, but barely). Stay between dirty groove on left and Shock and Awe on the right. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Shock and Awe   5.6   G   50'

Start: On a platform just right of the huge, scarred oak.

P1 5.6 G: Up easy slab, then slightly left through a roof at a right-facing corner. Rraversing right to fixed anchor on right side of arête. 50'

Gear: Draws.


Shelving Rock: Politico Wall

Description: Right of the wide gully that separates the cliff into two sections is a low cliffband. The Politico Wall is roughly centered in this cliff band, faces the lake and is close enough to the dirt road that it can be seen from the routes. Caribou Barbie and Obama Mama are squeezed together and Prima Facie is 100' to the right. Watch for loose rock down low.

Directions: Follow the main herd path for 2 min to several refrigerator-sized boulders at the base of a small talus field and a cairn with metal tube and rock on top. Leave the herd path and go up and slightly right to a high point of the cliff base and the starts of Caribou Barbie and Obama Mama.

Caribou Barbie   5.10a   G   90'   

Sustained with a steep start and a difficult-to-clip first bolt.

Start: Beneath a chocolate-colored streak that begins 8' up and a short, shattered pillar on the left.

P1 5.10a G: A committing start to a jug and a high first bolt, then easier climbing to a ledge beneath a short buttress. Go up the right side of the buttress (very close to Obama Mama) to another ledge. Climb a gray slab that is left of a long black streak, then move left to gain a right-rising, thin crack. Follow the crack to its end and make a tough high step (crux) onto a bulging wall near the top. Fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: To 1".

Obama Mama   5.8+   G   90'   

Watch the clip on the second bolt; after that, the route is 5.6.

Start: A few feet left of a vegetated chimney crack.

P1 5.8+ G: Up steep juggy rock moving left over a bulge to a thin face, then up a shallow left-facing corner to a fixed anchor. 90'

Beckerheads   5.10c   G   90'   

Start: Same as Obama Mama.

P1 5.10c G: up blocky rock to a hueco that is below and right of a smooth bulge. Move over the bulge (crux) and onto a slab where the climbing eases for 30' to an overlap with more blocky rock. Above the blocky rock is a shear face. Make a high step onto the sheer face, then go left to a diagonal crack that is followed to Obama Mama's last bolt and fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws plus a 1" cam.

Prima Facie   5.7+   G   75'   

This section of cliff, closest to the parking area, defines the extreme right end of the climbable rock. The name means "at first sight", as it was the first line in this section of cliff.

Start: 100' right of Obama Mama and 90' left of the extreme right side of the cliff at a short, waist-high ledge beneath a short overhang 15' up.

P1 5.7+ G: Work over the overhang, then go up a face past some huecos and pockets and into a shallow, left-facing corner. Up the corner and face above to a fixed anchor. 75'

Gear: 2–3" cams


Typhoon Wall: Ward Cleaver Buttress

Ward Cleaver   5.11c   G   60'   

[This route replaces route #22, page 273]

Multiple barn-door cruxes; super clean and super fun.

Start: 10' left of the No Name chimney below a bladelike arête.

P1 5.11c G: Climb the arête to a tree at the top with a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws and 1 yellow Alien.


Tyhphoon Wall: Main Face

Master of the Flying Guillotine   5.11b   G   70'   

[Between routes #23 and #24, page 273.]

Climbs the orange arête high on the right side of the gully; the arête resembles a ship's prow. Intricate and unlikely with fantastic exposure. Named for a classic 1975 martial arts film of the same name, and for the blade-like arête that is the central feature of the route.

Start: 25' uphill from Tsunami Slap-Up, on the right side of the gully, below a 6'-high left-facing corner that begins above a shelf 6' up.

P1 5.11b G: Mantel onto the shelf, climb the corner, then up to the top of a right-rising ramp. Step left onto an orange face and work left to the prow-like arête. Up the overhanging arête using both faces (crux) to a ledge at the top with a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: The start requires gear to 0.75", then draws.

Tsunami Slap-Up   5.12a   G   70'   

[Between routes #23 and #24, page 273. On the topo on page 273, this route ascends the feature labeled "orange tower".]

Climbs a beautiful overhanging prow on the left side of the Main Face. Technical, sequency, and pumpy. Great photo opportunities from a shelf on the opposite side of the gully.

Start: On the left side of the Main Face is a steep, rubble-filled gully that separates the Main Face from the Ward Cleaver Buttress. Begin below the striking overhanging prow on the right side of the gully at a short staircase of incut holds.

P1 5.12a G: Up the staircase of holds, then up an orange face to a triangular incut bucket on the arête. Bump and slap up the overhanging arête to a fixed anchor at the top. Hint: don't clip the last bolt. 70'

Gear: Draws.

Land of the Little People   5.8   PG   120'

[Left of route #24, page 273. On the topo on page 273, this route ascends the feature with the "ow" label.]

Bummer if you're not tiny—take the Normal People variation.

Start: At the low point on the main face, downhill and left of Sports Psychology, below an obvious S-shaped offwidth crack.

P1 5.8 PG: Up the offwidth crack to an overhanging flake that forms a chimney. (V1) Squirm up the tight chimney to the top of the flake. Continue up and right, then straight up a crack to a lichen-covered slab to the top. 120'

V1 Normal People 5.9 PG: At the base of the overhanging flake, step right and climb the outside of the flake to its top, then continue with the normal route.

Gear: To 6".

Descent: The route ends on a tree-covered ledge; rappel from trees.

Some Things Considered   5.9+   TR   90'

Begin 15' left of Force Nine and climb the left-facing corner and open book to the sloped ledge.


Chimney Mountain

Caveman Crack   5.8   G   50'   

Far below the main cliff is a jumble of herd paths to many caves and fissures. Near these herd paths is this striking, clean, right-leaning handcrack in orange rock, facing southwest. A toprope can be set with large gear (hexes) in a horizontal crack at the top.

Start: Follow the Chimney Mountain trail from Chimney Mountain Wilderness Lodge (see page 537) for about 30 minutes to a 5'-high rock step in the trail. Take the left herd path below the rock step and traverse the hillside for 2 minutes to the cliff 18T 563200 4838067. Beware of many misleading herd paths and deep holes in the ground. Begin below the obvious right-rising crack on the orange wall.

P1 5.8 G: Up the right-rising crack. After 30', the crack narrows to fingers through a bulge (crux). Continue up on small edges to the top. 50'

Caveman's Hairy Backside   5.4   G   50'

Quite a bit of lichen (hence hairy backside) and some loose rock and flakes.

Start: 50' right of Caveman Crack, just around the corner from large flakes and unfortunate graffiti (it's fading, thank goodness) and 10' left of a small cave, below vertical parallel cracks.

P1 5.4 G: Climb up cracks to less steep climbing above, staying close to the corner to the left. Finish at a small birch on top. 50'

Overlap It Up   5.4   PG   80'   

Very nice top area with great views and easy set up of toprope anchors.

Start: Follow herd paths directly uphill from behind Caveman Wall until you reach another large wall (about 75 yards). Begin near the left end of the wall below two 2' overlaps 10' up.

P1 5.4 PG: Undercling your way over the overlaps (gear) staying right of a small birch. Go up the relatively clean and easier, but sparsely protected slab to the blocky top. 80'


Chimney Mountain: True Summit Slabs

This crag is east of the true summit of Chimney Mountain, facing Bullhead Mountain. The cliff has good potential with the best rock yet found on Chimney Mountain—none of the characteristic rotten layers found on the other crags.

Directions: Scramble east and slightly right from the true summit down a broken and vegetated upper slab to a large pine tree 18T 563684 4838035. Scramble down to the (skier's) left of the pine, step down into a 4'-wide cleft and wiggle through a rabbit hole to emerge in a vegetated left-facing corner. Rappel from a fixed anchor on a pine tree to the base of the slab; a 60m rope just makes it.

Sunfall   5.6   G   170'   

A nice climb, too bad the steep crack portion isn't longer. From the end of P1, a 3rd class scramble upwards with a 4th class move in the left-facing corner takes you to the top.

Start: First locate Ray's Ascent. From here, scramble down a couple small steep sections, and around a large left-facing corner. Begin 20' left of the corner below a couple of cracks.

P1 5.6 G: Climb 10' up and into a semi-flat scooped out area. Work up the clean, zigzag crack in the vertical wall (crux), then pull over the top of the wall onto the slab above. Continue up easier slab moving towards the right to take advantage of cracks for gear and over a couple of overlaps to belay just to the right of the pine tree in the middle of the slab. 170'

Ray's Ascent   5.5   G   160'   

Start: From the rappel, walk left, scramble down 10' at a large boulder, then move to a position below an overhanging left-facing corner that arches up to a ceiling.

P1 5.5 G: Straight up along the base of the corner using a good crack. Pass to the right of two birch trees (V1) and move up and under the overhang. Traverse awkwardly right under the overhang, pass an offwidth crack that breaks the ceiling, and continue to a weakness in the wall directly below the rappel. Pull through the weakness to the rappel tree. 160'

V1 5.4 G: At the second birch, instead of moving up under the overhang, traverse across the slab at the bottom of the step below the ceiling.

Bullhead   5.0   X   60'

Used to access the top, easier than scrambling around the far end of the slab.

Start: 50' right of the rappel.

P1 5.0 X: Climb straight up the slab to an easy exit.


Rogers Rock: Rogers Slide: Main Face

 There is a new fixed anchor at the top of Little Finger. Rappelling Prints of Darkness is the easiest and most logical way to descend the slab.

Brinksmanship   5.5   R   280'   

Start: Between The Grand Game and Crucible of War.

P1 5.5 R: Up the slab following small left- and right-facing features to the white scar between The Grand Game and Crucible of War. Traverse right to the Crucible or War fixed anchor. 125'

P2 5.5 PG: Traverse back left to the white scar, then straight up to overhang. Traverse right to the fixed anchor of Kings and Desperate Men. 145'

Still Bill   5.8   PG   285'   

This is a continuation of Bill Route [page 458].

Start: The top of Bill Route.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb straight up between a small, left-facing corner on left and a right-angling, right-facing corner on the right, ending on a pedestal. 100'.

P2 5.7+ PG: Up the right side of a right-leaning black streak to beautiful, gold face climbing between Little Finger and Two Bits. This leads to the right side of the prominent flake, then straight up to the fixed anchor on Little Finger. 185'

Gear: Draws plus small gear (e.g., RPs).

Prints of Darkness   5.9   G (5.5 R)   285'   

This route is an extension of Pieces of Eight. [Route #18, page 460]

Start: At the P1 anchor of Pieces of Eight.

P1 5.9 G (5.5 R): Up and slightly right (no pro, 5.5) to bulge. Over bulge (bolt) to overlap. Work up and slightly left (crux) to line of bolts that lead to a good ledge and fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.8 G: Straight up to series of overlaps (small cams). Step left above a square block to a slab (bolt) that leads to the intersection with the crack of Two Bits. Up a few feet, then left on smile-shaped rounded ledge. Straight up pure friction past bolts to easier rock where it meets the fixed anchor at the top of Little Finger. 185'

Gear: To 1".

Descent: Rappel the route.


Wright Peak

 Note about the start of The Hole: Begin 5' left of the zigzag right-facing corner (not 10' left as the book suggests) and 5' right of a left-facing corner. (Essentially, it begins on the face between the two corners.)

 Variation to The Hole [Route #3, page 426].

V1 Lizard Head 5.6 G: On the face below the hole, work up and left to finish on the left side of the cantilevered triangular block.

Lost in the Thicket   5.6   G   40'

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At the left end of the cliff, 80' to the left of the chimney, at crack that begins at the ground as a seam and widens to hand-size at a horizontal crack 15' up.

P1 5.6 G: Follow the crack to some ledges, step right, then climb another short vertical crack just left of a short left-facing corner. 40'

Spruce Crack   5.7   G   40'   

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At a ledge at waist height that has a 2'-wide gap with a vertical fingercrack that disappears 15' up.

P1 5.7 G: Follow the crack then face climb to a wide horizontal crack. Traverse right and go up a left-facing corner then move right to finish. 40'

Happy Trails to You   5.9   G   45'   

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At a vertical seam with a horn at head height that is at the right end of a waist-high ledge.

P1 5.9 G: Follow the seam then move right to another seam in a right-facing corner. Move up to a bulge that is climbed to a horizontal crack. Finish in a bottomless, left-facing corner. 45'

Gear: Standard rack plus a pink Tricam and a #3 Friend below the crux.

Ranger Danger   5.6   G   50'   

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: 50' to the left of the chimney at a crack that begins 5' up and has a 6"-wide section at 8'.

P1 5.6 G: Up the crack to a ledge that is capped by an overhang, continue up the crack (in a right-facing corner) and climb a short chimney to a rounded right-facing corner at the top. 50'

Fogbound   5.7   G   50'   

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: At the left end of a long, waist-high ledge, below a left-rising crack that goes to a ledge 20' up (the ledge is shared with Ranger Danger).

P1 5.7 G: Up the crack and go past the ledge to an overhang that is climbed to a wide crack that widens to offwidth near the top. 50'

Gorillas in the Mist   5.8   G   65'   

[Left of route #1, page 426]

Start: Same as Fogbound, at a crack that ends at two horizontal cracks 25' up.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack to the highest horizontal crack. Move up right along another thin crack, then exit up left at the top. 65'

The Wrong Crack   5.9   PG   65'   

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 426]

Hard if you're short.

Start: Same as The Wright Crack, below a thin vertical crack.

P1 5.9 PG: Up the crack to a ceiling 8' up. Pull over the ceiling and go up to a stance below a bulge. Make long reach toward a horizontal crack that is broken by a short vertical crack. Follow ledges up and left, and finish in a right-facing corner that is 7' right of The Wright Crack. 65'

Knock the Cairn Down   5.8+   TR   65'

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 426]

Begin 20' right of The Wright Crack and 15' left of Wright Wrong Chimney at a short left-slanting crack above a sharp right-pointing end of a long narrow ledge. Follow the crack to a steep face that leads to another short crack. Work up past a series of ledges and short faces to the highest part of the cliff.

Disappearing Act   5.6   G   65'   

[Between routes #3 and #4, page 426]

Start: In the center of the cliff is a large white spot 8' up, with a zigzag 10'-high right-facing corner bordering its left side. Begin at the base of this corner.

P1 5.6 G: Up the corner, or the face to the left, then over a bulge to a stance. Step right and follow a right-rising crack to a prominent horizontal crack. Finish in a short, shallow left-facing corner. 65'

The Wright Stuff   5.11b   TR   65'

[Between routes #4 and #5, page 426]

Begin 8' right of B-47 and 5' left of Perilous Journey at the right-hand of two short left-leaning cracks. Climb past the crack to a ledge, then traverse 5' left to within 2' of the right-facing corner of B-47. Work straight up the face past a small overlap to a shallow vertical scoop on the upper part of the cliff, then to the top above the left side of the scoop.


Chapel Pond Slab

 New variations to Thanksgiving. [Route #4, page 180]

V2 Dangerous Game 5.7 X: At the start of P2, follow the diagonal crack (of the Regular Route) to its end, then go straight up the face to a bulge. Pull over the bulge (crux), then straight up the whitish face (100' runout, 5.6) until even with the top of the right-leaning corner of P3. Traverse 10' left to belay at the top of the corner. This is a long pitch (200').

V3 Roast Turkey 5.7 X: At the start of P3, go up the wide crack for a few feet, then step left around the corner (crux) onto a blank face. Go straight up the face to belay at a flake just below the birch trees.

 New variation to the Empress. [Route #1, pages 176–177. The variations will be renumbered, as this becomes the new V1.]

V1 Leila's Line 5.7 R: Similar to the climbing on Thanksgiving. Ascend V1 of Regular Route to the right-rising dike. Move up and left onto the slab until 5' right of the huge left-facing corner of Empress. Staying close to the corner, work up the slab until the angle eases. Belay as for Empress.

 On the Regular Route [Route #5, page 181] there has been some confusion about where to belay at the top of P4. The normal belay spot is 30' above the boulder (not 20' as described), and is a bathtub-like ledge with three sides, a flat floor, and a birch tree.

 This is an excellent variation to P6 of Regular Route. This crack is very obvious on the right side of Bob's Knob when seen from the opposite side of the valley (like from the Upper Washbowl).

V6 Li'l Sebastian 5.6 G : From the high ledge below the S-shaped crack, walk right 30' to an offwidth crack. On your right at waist level is a horizontal crack that disappears around a corner. Follow this crack as it shoots up and right for 140'. At its end, follow a slab straight up to trees and the intersection with the north descent. Great handjams, and scenic views of Chapel Pond.

Dead Dog   5.10-   R   90'

Not recommended.

Start: Same as Dog's Breakfast [Route #7, page 182].

P1 5.10- R: Begin up Dog's Breakfast, and continue straight up stucco-like rock past a left-rising ramp and discontinuous cracks to the top. 90'


Chapel Pond Gully Cliff: Old Route Area

 In the description of Left Hand Route [page 187], a third finish option exists, which is to continue straight up a series of corners (5.5) to the top.

 The route Tennessee Excursion [Route #2, page 186] is considered difficult for the grade, perhaps more like 5.11b.

 The route Chattanooga Choo-Choo [Route #3, page 186] is considered difficult for the grade, perhaps more like 5.11c.


Chapel Pond Gully Cliff: Cheap Date Area

Leave Your Wallet At Home   5.6   PG   500'

This route climbs some new terrain in order to link Cheap Date to the top of the cliff.

P1 5.4 PG: Same as Cheap Date. 150'

P2 5.3 G: Step right of belay and friction up then right through a tree island to gain a left-rising crack. Climb the crack to a nice ledge above and right of base ledge. Tree belay. 80'

P3 5.6 PG: Go straight up the face using a series of horizontal cracks until it is possible to step left above a large tree island with an vegetated offwidth crack at its right end. Climb the tricky face (crux) just left of the offwidth to a horizontal. Step right and friction above the offwidth to another tree belay. 70'

P4 5.6 PG: Step though tree island to a right-rising crack. Follow this right to a left-rising crack, joining P3 of Beam Me Up. Make the dicey friction move to a horizontal then friction straight up to the top on easier terrain. 200'


Crane Mountain: Wayout Wall

[Stepping Stone, page 477]

[Bulwark, page 478]

Where's the Sun, Bob Kovachick?   5.6   R   130'

Start: 40' right of Stepping Stone, at a clean strip of slab bounded on each side by dark, dank stripes of moss.

P1 5.6 R: Go up near the left side of the clean slab (runout). At the end of the clean rock, step up and left through moss to belay at a tree. 130'

Descent: Two-rope rappel.

[Sun Dogs, page 478]

Wayout Chimney   5.5   G   95'

Start: At a chimney 200' right of Sun Dogs. This is 20' left of a 35'-tall, detached section of cliff with a cave behind it, and on its left side is a sweeping, right-rising edge.

P1 5.5 G: Chimney up to stacked blocks and climb easily up to the top of the chimney. Go up a wet slab to brushy slopes above. 95'

Descent: Walk up and right 40', then down to a pine tree in an alcove and rappel (same as October Crack).

October Crack   5.8-   G   85'

If it wasn't for the stacked death-blocks at mid-height, this would be a decent route.

Start: Right of Wayout Chimney, at a fist–arm crack between Wayout Chimney and a detached 35'-tall mega-flake with a cave behind it and a sweeping, right-rising left edge.

P1 5.8- G: Up the crack to a sloping stance below a block-filled alcove. Chimney up and climb left onto the outside corner to avoid blocks, then go up to another sloping ledge. Climb up to overhang and through it via a crack to a large, sloping ledge on the right, then step up and left onto the top. 85'

Descent: Rappel from pine tree.


Crane Mountain: Beaverview Wall

Requiem Pro Patris   5.8-   G   90'   

Start: About 250' left of the Dark Speed corner, on a small ledge above a 20'-high, very dirty slab, below a line of pockets along a left-rising seam. High above, a pine tree sweeps up vertically from a 15' horizontal trunk.

P1 5.8- G: Climb face and pockets to a stance below a narrow face with several good, discontinuous vertical cracks. Climb this face via several cracks, passing left of the peculiar pine tree to a good ledge. 90'

Descent: Rappel from trees.

King and I   5.7   G (5.4 R)   140'   

Start: 20' up from the low end of a slab, at a 15'-long crack that fades out 20' below a short, steep face. This is near the left edge of a lower-angled, 50'-wide, wetter section of slab, bracketed by large corners on either side. The ground to the right is covered with ferns. This is about 200' left of the Dark Speed corner.

P1 5.7 G (5.4 R): Go up the crack to its end, then climb a slab without protection up and right to the base of the headwall (V1). Climb the headwall stemming vertical cracks, then continue up along the edge of a corner using vertical cracks, past a short, low-angle, blank slab to an overhang. Pull directly through the overhang just left of an arête, up to a large, sloping ledge, then step left to belay at a large pine tree. 140'

Descent: Rappel into the fern glade to climber's right, then scramble down to the base.

V1 5.7 G 100': The runout slab near the bottom can be skipped by climbing up the fern- and bramble-covered slope to a treed stance below a cave in the large inside corner. Move out left on good holds onto the main face, then follow the route as normal.

Drumthwacket   5.7   PG   80'   

Start: 50' right of the fern patch below a slab bounded by corners facing each other, at a hand crack 10' left of a chimney.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb the crack to its end. Move up right for gear in another crack (possible to left as well), then up left to yet another vertical crack. Follow this up easier rock to a narrow ledge and walk 8' left to a pine tree. 80'

Beat the Crowd   5.5   PG   80'

You won't have to stand in line for this one. If there were anti-stars, this would warrant a couple.

Start: At a chimney 60' right of the fern patch.

P1 5.5 PG: Climb a chimney past a large, dirty ledge, through an overhang, then up a brush-filled slope until level with pine trees to the left. 80'

[Forgotten Days, page 478]

[Dark Speed , page 478]

[Slim Pickins, page 479]

Bog Spavin   5.5   R   200'

Some good climbing, some bad, and some long runouts.

Start: 60' right of Slim Pickins, near the left side of the highest point of the terrain along the base of the main face, climb up a brushy ramp to a tree ledge with a large rectangular flake.

P1 5.5 R: Up cracks and flakes, then up a slab to connect with another series of cracks. Follow these to a bushy shelf under a huge roof. 200'

[Fade and Flee, page 479]


Crane Mountain: Tablerock Crag

This cliff, mentioned on page 480, is reasonably tall and doesn't offer the best protection.

Pinus Strobus   5.8   G   80'

The name is latin for "eastern white pine". The start is unprotected 5.4.

Start: 25' left and up from Tablerock Corner (and the large, flat, table-like boulder that marks this route), below a low-angle 20'-tall slab leading to a ledge with trees on either end.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the unprotected slab to the ledge. Work up to an alcove formed by a left-facing corner and right-leaning crack. (This alcove is right of a large pine tree growing up against the wall.) Go up the alcove and overhang at its apex, then wrestle a sapling to gain the top. 80'


Crane Mountain: Viewpoint Cliff

This cliff is described on page 480 of the guidebook as a "minor cliff". Due to recent activity, this now appears to be a destination cliff. All of the routes can be toproped. All routes begin on steep terrain, but finish on low-angle friction with sparse protection.

Directions: You pass this cliff on the way to Brown Slab. Specifically, after the summit trail crosses the rocky creek bed, head left toward an obvious, spacious ledge called the Viewpoint Ledge. Skirt the eastern (skier's left) edge of the cliff to reach the bottom of the cliff.

You arrive at the cliff at its right end. The easiest routes to identify are Every Creature's Theme, Scenic Slip, and Puzzle. The entire cliff base is less than 100' wide.

Every Creature's Theme   5.5   PG (5.2 R)   130'   

[Mentioned on page 480]

Start: At the far left side of the cliff below a left-facing corner that diminishes up higher to a rounded flap.

P1 5.5 PG (5.3 R): (V1, V2) Climb the corner to its end, then friction to the birch and spruce belay tree station on the far left edge of the Viewpoint Ledge. 130'

V1 5.7 TR: Friction up the slab left of the corner.

V2 5.4 G (5.3 R): Begin 8' right of the corner and climb a crack–corner on the right that joins the route 12' up.

Fifty-Foot Fright Fest   5.9+   TR   130'

Begin 5' right of the V2 variation of Every Creature's Theme (or 13' right of the start of Every Creature's Theme), at the lowest point of the slab. A bouldery lunge and mantle to small edges lead to tenuous friction climbing, staying 8' right of Every Creature's Theme. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme.

Slab Happy   5.8   TR   130'   

The best exercise in pure friction at the cliff. Begin 8' right of the lowest point on the slab at a left-rising crack that fades 12' up. This is 20' right of Every Creature's Theme. Up the crack to its top, then up the right side of the blunt nose (crux) on continuously tricky friction for thirty feet to easier ground. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme.

The Good Book   5.8   TR   130'

Begin 4' right of the left-rising crack of Slab Happy, below a shallow open book. Climb up to and through the open book, then straight up the friction slab, meeting Scenic Slip just above the corner. Belay same as Every Creature's Theme.

Scenic Slip   5.7   PG   130'   

Start: 20' right of the left-rising crack of Slab Happy at a left-rising seam that becomes a sharply-defined, left-facing, left-slanting corner.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb the left-rising seam and left-facing corner to its top, then go straight up to Viewpoint Ledge. Belay as for Every Creature's Theme, or in the tree island on Viewpoint Ledge. 130'

Golden Dreams   5.10   TR   130'

Begin below the orange face 3' right of Scenic Slip at a double-edged flake. Up the flake onto the face. Work up the left edge of the orange rock, then move toward the center of the orange rock. Join Viewpoint Crack just before the overhang above the grass island.

Viewpoint Crack   5.6   PG   130'   

Start: 13' right of Scenic Slip, at a left-leaning crack that begins at a small overhang 12' up.

P1 5.6 PG: Delicately gain the crack (crux) which is climbed to its top. Skirt the left edge of a grass island to the left edge of an overhang (Golden Dreams joins here). Break the overhang on the left side on knobs, then go straight up to Viewpoint Ledge. 130'

Seamly Route   5.8   R   110'

Start: At a pair of faint seams (one of which becomes a shallow crack above), 8' right of Viewpoint Crack and 5' left of Blue Streaks.

P1 5.8 R: Follow the seams up the steep wall past the brush island to where it becomes a crack. Continue up the crack through a small overhang in low-angled rock. 110'

Blue Streaks   5.8   R   125'

Start: 5' right of Viewpoint Crack and 7' left of Puzzle, below two blue–black water streaks under a flap.

P1 5.8 R: Initially tricky (and unprotected) moves lead to better holds, then to an undercling at the flap 18' up. Up over the flap to a narrow ledge, then straight up on a dirty, low-angle slab. 125'

Puzzle   5.4   G   120'   

[Mentioned on page 480]

The first route on the cliff and, with some cleaning, would be a worthwhile route.

Start: Near the right edge of the cliff (15' right of Blue Streaks) below the right of two parallel, left-slanting seams. The right seam reaches the ground and the left seam begins about 7' up.

P1 5.4 G: Climb the right seam until one can step left to use both seams. Go up to the right end of a small ledge and (V1) continue up and left in the crack. 120'

V1 5.4 X: Step right at the ledge and climb straight up the unprotected slab.


Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs:Dartmouth Wall

The Dartmouth Wall extends for quite a distance below the ridgeline, with several distinct sections. These routes are far left of the routes on page 482, and lie on the right edge of a rockslide zone, which is just left of the first tall cliff.

Sweeper   5.5   G   90'

Start: At the extreme left end of Dartmouth Wall is a slightly overgrown rockslide area. This route is located in the rockslide area at the left edge of a large wall, just left of a sweeping left-facing corner, below the right side of an overhang at head height that leads to a short, low-angle face.

P1 5.5 G: Climb through the right side of the overhang onto the face and up to a pair of left-rising cracks that break a low-angle ramp. Up the cracks to their top, then scramble up easier rock to the top. 90'

Swept Away   5.8   G   90'   

Start: 20' right of Sweeper, just left of a crack that sweeps up along the left side of a left-facing corner.

P1 5.8 G: Make a boulder move to gain a crack above blueberry bushes; follow this to its end. Step left around a bulge then up to a ledge. Continue up the crack in the corner to its top. 90'

Opplevelsen   5.7   G   120'   

Currently dirty, but if cleaned, will be one of the better moderate routes on the Summit Cliffs.

Start: On the crack-riddled left flank of a wooded alcove 50' left of Dividing Line.

P1 5.7 G: (V1) Climb up the cracks on the low-angle face left of a small, vegetated, left-facing corner. Scramble onto the top of a boulder and step left around an outside corner into a large left-facing corner. Go up the wide crack in the corner to a stance with a horizontal crack leading out right. Take this onto the main face and follow vertical cracks to a sloping ledge. Continue upward, following a left-slanting, left-facing corner to an overhang. Traverse right to a wide crack and climb this to the top. 120'

V1 Opplevelsen Direct 5.8 G : A better, but harder line than the original one. Climb the vertical crack 10' right of the normal start. Step left at its end to reach a crack breaking the overhang just right of the boulder mentioned on the normal route. Climb the crack up the face directly, meeting the normal route where it traverses back out. Follow as normal to the final overhang and climb this following the cracks that lead directly through it.

Dividing Line   5.9   G   90'   

Start: 200' right of the rockslide area of Sweeper, at a slab below a bulge 10' up. A striking handcrack cuts through the steep headwall above the bulge.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the short slab to a crack leading through a bulge, then up the handcrack in the steep headwall to a large sloping ledge. 50'

P2 5.2 G: Scramble up minor 5th class rock to the top. 40'

Descent: Rappel, or descent a 5th class gully to (climber's) right.

Divide By Zero   5.9+   TR   50'   

Begin as for Dividing Line. Move up right to gain an offwidth crack. Up the offwidth to the rightmost crack on the headwall above that leads to the sloping ledge of Dividing Line.

Breathe Easy   5.10a   G   45'   

Start: 40' right of Dividing Line at a left-facing, left-leaning corner with a crack in it. There is a nice rock shelf at the base.

P1 5.10a G: Up the corner (crux) to its top, then traverse right 8' to a crack breaking an overhang. Over this to easier rock to the top section of the cliff. 45'

Crusty   5.6   PG   35'

Currently very dirty, and not worth the thrash.

Start: 10' above and 30' right of the top of Breathe Easy. (To reach this route, thrash up the gully to the left to the top of Breathe Easy, then scramble right to the base of another section of open rock.)

P1 5.6 PG: Climb up the right-hand side of open rock following wide cracks as they go up and left to the top. 35'

Darker Dreams   5.8   R (5.7 X)   65'

One of those things you're not quite certain you can get out of once you get in the middle of it.

Start: 8' right of Brighter Visions, below a left-slanting seam.

P1 5.8 R (5.7 X): Climb the seam and up to the right edge of a large overhang. Climb directly through a notch to a ledge at the base of a steep wall with a crack running from lower right leftward across the face. Up this crack a few feet, then reach right and step around onto the face of the arête. Climb this without protection to the top. 65'

Dartmouth Notch   5.8   PG   100'

You'll need a tetanus booster after climbing this one; not recommended.

Start: Immediately left of Gunga Din Chin at a cluttered gully leading to slabs and steeper rock.

P1 5.8 PG: Wallow through debris to a slab on the right side of the gully. Up this to a wide crack in a corner. Jam loose rocks through a steep bulge (crux) to a stance. Climb through the notch into a hellish tangle of small conifers, choss, and rusty wire onto a sloping dirty ramp between short walls, the right of which has "Dartmouth 1974" carved in it. Escape to the top of the ridge as desired. 100'

Gunga Din Chin   5.10c   TR   90'   

[Between routes #20 and #21, page 482]

Begin 40' right of Brighter Visions below an overhanging arête with a V-notch 12' up. Climb the arête through the V-notch (5.8) and up using any of several cracks to a stance below the "chin." Up the buttress and out right onto the "chin" (crux), then up cracks and fins to the top.


Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs: Diagonal Wall

Knitel's Route   5.7   G   100'

[Right of route #22, page 483]

Climbed by Neal Knitel thinking it was Thank You, Cindy.

Start: Same as Paltry Show.

P1 5.7 G: Scramble up narrow ramps on the right to their end below an overhanging prow. Move right into a narrow notch with a wide crack, and follow this up along the right edge of the prow to the top. 100'

Amid the Flood   5.8-   R   80'

[Left of route #26, page 483] This is an independent line, not a variation of Carl's Climb. A good line, but with ledge-fall potential.

Start: 6' left of Carl's Climb, at a right-facing, ramp-like corner.

P1 5.8- R: Climb the corner 10' to a stance. Step up into a V-groove on the outside of the corner. At its end, climb up, crossing several slanting cracks along the way, to finish on the last moves of Thank You, Cindy's rightmost end variation.

 Variation to Carl's Climb [Route #26, page 483].

V1 5.4 R: Used if the bottom seam of Carl's Climb is wet. Begin 4' right of the normal start (same as Seam Ripper) and climb up good holds along the outside corner for 8', then step left to regain the normal route.

Seam Ripper   5.8-   PG   70'   

Start: 4' right of Carl's Climb, below a tight V-notch corner that ends 10' up.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the corner and onto the face above. Follow the crack slanting up left to the top of Thank You, Cindy. 70'

Dairy Aire   5.5   PG   70'   

[Right of route #26, page 483]

Start: Just right of Seam Ripper at a narrow, small corner, near the outside corner of the face's right edge.

P1 5.5 PG: Up the face right of Seam Ripper's V-notch. Climb up back-and-forth, crossing several left-rising cracks, using several interconnecting vertical cracks, to a short, steep headwall near the top. Make a tricky move right to gain wide cracks that break through to an easy slab. Climb up and left to a fixed anchor. 70'

Cruise Crack   5.5   G   60'   

Start: A steep, tree-choked gully lies on the right side of the wall. Begin at the lowest crack that breaches the face along the right edge in this gully.

P1 5.5 G: Follow the crack to where it briefly fades under a large block. Continue up crack as it widens through a steep corner, then eases at the top. 60'

Nervy   5.4   PG   55'   

Start: At a crack that pinches off just before reaching the gully, 6' up and right from Cruise Crack.

P1 5.4 PG: Step up to reach the crack, then follow it to the top, clambering over a large block at two-thirds height. 55'

Trouser Flute   5.5   G   40'   

Start: At a crack behind a birch tree, 6' below a steep headwall, 6' above and right of Nervy.

P1 5.5 G: Follow the crack through a corner and up easier rock to the top. 40'

Exit Lite   5.5   G   30'

Start: At a wide crack running along a steep headwall onto the main face.

P1 5.5 G: Climb through steep rock and follow the wide crack slanting up left to the top. 30'


Crane Mountain: Summit Cliffs: Left of Ladder

Little Buttress   5.8   G   20'

Hardly worth mentioning, except that it's fun.

Start: 100 yards west of the summit below a steep prow. Scramble down to the ledge below the prow and wrestle conifers to its base.

P1 5.8 G: Up the prow using several of enticing crack lines. 20'

Gnarly   5.4   PG   60'

Start: 30' west of the summit on a ledge below a low-angle face with several open books.

P1 5.4 PG: Climb the open books, leftward at first, then back right to the top.

Pain and Pleasure   5.8   G   100'

[Between routes #27 and #28, page 483]

Start: 5' right of the deep chimney of Folly-Stricken at a huge flake forming an overhang at head height.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the flake up and around the overhang and into a squeeze chimney. Up the chimney as it narrows to offwidth to gain a series of ledges. Belay at the second major ledge. 60'

P1 4th class: Scramble right and up a gully, then through a thicket of tight trees to gain the summit trail. 40'


Crane Mountain: Right of Ladder, Left Buttress

 Rock of Ages was previously a TR. It was soloed by Jay Harrison and is now a lead route. Use caution, as the detached pillar will probably not hold gear or withstand an outward pull.

Sweeping up to Glory   5.8   G   45'

Start: 8' right of the summit ladder, just right of the outside corner. This is about 100' left of the Left Buttress proper.

P1 5.8 G: Stem up a short corner onto the face above. Up the left side of the face to an overhang, then move left around the corner, up a crack, then back right above the overhang to the prow, which is followed to the top. 45'

V1 5.7 G: Up the crack using the alcove just right of the ladder.

Stone Cross   5.8   PG   30'

[Between routes #29 and #30, page 484]

Start: In the gully between the two buttresses, below a short corner and below the right end of a long horizontal crack. This is 15' right of Rock of Ages.

P1 5.8 PG: Gain the horizontal crack, then traverse left until under a short small left-facing corner (8' right of the arête). Gain the corner and climb to a ledge, then follow a crack up and left to the top of the buttress. 30'


Crane Mountain: Right of Ladder, Right Buttress

Five Small Stones   5.5   PG   60'

[Left of route #31, page 484]

Start: On a small prow sandwiched between Left Buttress and Right Buttress (but closer to the Cornerstone prow), just up from Toiling Men.

P1 5.5 PG: Step onto the buttress, then go up and left on a slab to reach the arête. Up the arete using holds on both sides. Finish by scrambling up to the top of the gully, then doing a boulder move up a slanting crack. 60'

 Variation to Cornerstone [Route #32, page 484].

V2 Stoned in a Crowded Corner 5.10a TR : Leaving off at the same point as V1, climb the face between Lost in the Crowd and Cornerstone using small holds. Reportedly of a high quality with many delicate face moves.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area

Description: Several new cliffs have been developed on the southeastern aspect of Crane Mountain. The Measles Walls, Southeast Corner Cliff, Isobuttress, and the Black Arches Wall have become increasingly popular and now share a common approach, which is cairned, heavily traveled, and easy to follow. The second printing of Adirondack Rock shows the location of both the Measles Walls and Black Arches Wall, and the location of the approach trail, known as the East Path. For climbers intent on visiting other cliffs in the Southeastern Area—i.e. Slanting Cracks Wall—the directions in Adirondack Rock should be followed.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Slanting Cracks Wall

 A rappel route has been established on the Slanting Cracks Wall, on the extreme right edge using trees. The top anchor is 60' right of the top of Providence.

Variety Crack   5.10a   G (5.5 R)   155'   

Start: Around the right side of the gigantic Providence corner of the Slanting Cracks Wall, a ledge leads along to the rest of the routes. 100' right of the corner is a wet amphitheater capped by overhangs with a long slabby buttress sweeping down on its right side. Begin 12' above the low end of the buttress at a small corner that leads to a crack that runs up and left into a steep dihedral.

P1 5.10a G (5.5 R): Climb up to crack, then follow it to the dihedral and continue through difficult moves (#5 Camalot) to the top of the dihedral. Follow a thin horizontal crack left to its end, then move up to a small stance 12' below the overhang on the right side of the amphitheater. Move up to a short right-facing corner–step in the overhang and climb through this using a crack. Follow a left-rising crack to a sloping ledge system. 155'

Gear: Large trad rack with complete sets of C3s, C4s to #5, doubles of 1"-4" cams.

Slabmeister   5.11a   G (5.6X)   170'   

Start: At stacked blocks at the low point of the buttress, 15' right and below Variety Crack.

P1 5.11a G (5.6 X): Climb up blocks and continue up the steep slab, making several tricky moves to reach easy knob-climbing 70' up. Waltz up easily for 30' to where the knobs evaporate and the angle steepens. Continue up 20' of difficult climbing to a good ledge. Climb the waist-high overhang and easy slab, cross a wide, dirty crack and a short bit more slab to a fixed anchor on a tree. 170'

Descent: Either rappel with two ropes, or walk up and (climber's) left to the Slanting Cracks Wall rappel line.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Belleview Area

Description: A collection of slabs and low-angle faces with climbs up to 560' long. It lies above and slightly left of the Measles Walls. The Belleview Slab is emerging as the best place for beginning intermediate climbers.

Directions: Walk past (east) the Measles Walls. The East Path reaches a level camping spot and turns sharply left. Immediately after this turn, follow a path leads off left and uphill to a small slab above the Top-O-the-Measles Wall. Continue to the base of another slab, head left and traverse for 200', up a little, then cross behind a large boulder below a mossy slab. Continue traversing another 100', then go straight up to the base of the Belleview Slab to arrive below a left-facing corner with a crack, neither of which reach the ground (Belle Bottom Crack). It takes about 5 minutes to reach this from the East Path.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Belleview Area: Belleview Slab

O'Tom's Tick Twister   5.7+   PG   60'   

Start: Near the left end of the main face, at a flake lying against the cliff that forms a right-facing corner.

P1 5.7+ PG: Up corner to top of flake. Friction up to a stepped ramp that breaks an overlap. Over this, then step left to a flake that forms a left-facing corner. Go to top of the flake, then move up left under an overhang near the left edge of the cliff (it is possible to escape left on a ledge here). Go around the right side of the overhang and follow a crack up an easy slab to a white pine tree. 60'

Gear: #000 and #00 C3s were used for gear at a key placement just above the initial flake.

Chess Club Crack   5.4   G   110'

Recommended if cleaned up.

Start: Same as O'Tom's Tick Twister.

P1 5.4 G: (V1) Climb up flake, then traverse right on sloping ledges to a large vertical crack that leads up and right. Climb this to an oak tree and belay. 60'

P2: 5.3 G: Go up along a giant crack with many face holds to its end. Move up to a right-leaning crack and follow it to a large red pine tree at the top. 50'

V1 5.8 PG: Climb up to a 4'-tall right-facing corner formed by a flake, which is slightly right of the large crack. Move up and left to join the normal route.

Gear: Large cams (#4 and #5 C4s) are required.

Discovered Check   5.8-   G (5.4 R)   60'   

Start: 12' right of a large flake lying against the cliff, below a small, crescent-shaped, left-facing corner.

P1 5.8- G (5.4 R): Climb up into corner, make a tricky move to get above it (bolt), then friction easily to an overhang directly below a "bottomless" right-facing corner. Climb through it and up corner a few feet, then step left onto the outside corner. Go up and left to a vertical line of knobs that leads to a short bit of easy slab to a headwall right of a notch at the end of an overhang. Climb through the headwall (bolt), then up the slab (no gear) to the high point of open rock leading to a white pine tree. 60'

Giucco Piano   5.8   G (5.3 R)   60'   

Start: At a clear swathe of slab between two mossy strips.

P1 5.8 G (5.3 R): Climb clean slab (stick-clip bolt) to an overhang broken by a short vertical crack. Climb up via crack to a stance below a steep slab. Up slab (bolt) and through an overlap (bolt) to a ledge with an oak tree. 60'

Belleview   5.9   G (5.4 R)   110'   

Start: At the right end of the low section of the cliff, where it turns a slight corner forming a blunt arête.

P1 5.9 G (5.4 R): (V1) Climb up the outside of the ridge (stick-clip bolt from the right) to reach easier slab. Go up past a horizontal to steeper slab (bolts) to another horizontal, then up slab past two more bolts. Finish at a red pine tree. 110'

V1 5.7 G: Begin 12' right of the low point at a 1' long, left-rising foothold. Move up and left to reach the arête about 3' above the first bolt.

Glee Club Crack   5.4   G   100'   

Start: At a short vertical fistcrack leading to a ledge at head height.

P1 5.4 G: Go to ledge, then make an awkward move onto a higher ledge on the left. Traverse to a large, right-rising vertical crack that begins as a series of pocks at the ledge. Climb pocks, crack, and the face on the left or right, past an oak tree to the top. 100'

Gear: Large cams are nice, but not entirely necessary.

Lawyers, Guns, and Money   5.10c   G (5.2 R)   100'   

Has a perplexing slab move low, followed by sustained 5.9 face climbing for 30'. Quite nice. A good lead, or easily toproped after climbing Belle Bottom Crack.

Start: Same as Glee Club Crack.

P1 5.10c G: Foot traverse up and right on a right-rising rail, up a slab to a bulge, then make a hard press-up over the bulge (crux). Move right, then straight up a sustained slab to where the angle eases. Run out easy slab to a large tree ledge. 100'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Belle Bottom Crack   5.6-   G   90'   

This route was mentioned [page 476] in the first edition, but rediscovered, cleaned up, and more accurately graded in 2012.

Start: At left-facing corner with a hand crack, neither of which quite reach the ground, at the right end of the level spot along the base of the cliff.

P1 5.6- G: Climb up to crack–corner and climb this to where the corner fades and the crack veers sharply left. Either follow the crack to its end then move up and left to join Glee Club Crack, or climb the knobby face directly above the bend to the top (5.3 R; this is the original ascent route). 90'

Also Ran   5.7   G (5.3 X)   55'

Start: 20' right of Belle Bottom Crack at a stance on sloping ground below a small, rounded, left-facing corner that leads to a horizontal shelf.

P1 5.7 G (5.3 X): Friction to gain the rounded corner, then the shelf. Step left and climb dirty knobs to a short, wide, right-rising vertical crack (tricky #4 Camalot placement here). Continue up knobs on slab to the top of the cliff. 55'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Belleview Area: Bellavista Slab

Description: This is a long, narrow, undulating slab positioned above and left of the Belleview Slab.

Directions: Climb something on the Belleview Slab and walking 150' (climber's) left. Alternatively, walk along the base of the Belleview Slab and scramble up a steep gully to the base of the slab. You first arrive at the lowest point of the slab, the start of Bella Vista. To reach the start of other routes, continue left and scramble up to an upper vegetated ledge 100' higher.

Unnamed14   5.6   G (5.4 R)   480'

The lowest pitch is not memorable; the second has one decent move. The third is nice, and the final is the popular, shared final pitch of Bella Vista. A better linkup is to Bon Chance to the oak tree under the headwall, then walk left 40' to the spruce tree belay below the last two pitches.

Start: 200' left of the start of Bella Vista and 40' left of (and below) the upper ledge of Le Jeur de Bon Heurs, at a 25'-tall, scruffy slab with a crack left of center.

P1 5.4 G: Climb slab to crack to top of slab. Move right to cracks that lead up a low-angle slab; follow these past several large loose blocks to a large pine tree (this tree is below and left of the oak tree rap anchor below the main headwall). 100'

P2 5.6 G (5.4 R): Move back left to left-rising crack that leads to an oak tree growing from a break in the slab. Climb slab right of oak tree and up trivial slab to a short flap. Step left and use a crack to mount this difficulty, then climb easy slab around several blocks to a tree belay below a steeper slab. 100'

P3 5.5 G (5.4 R): Climb crack and open book up and through bulge, then continue up unprotected, easier slab to a spruce tree. 100'

P4 5.6 G (5.4 R): Go left around spruce tree, continue up unprotected slab to a large flake lying on it, then finish same as Bella Vista: climb crack in steep slab to its end, step left and go up seam and crack to below two small spruce trees, step right around these to the top. 180'

Le Jour de Bon Heures   5.3   G   460'   

Start: At the left side of the upper vegetated ledge, below a sharply-outlined, right-facing corner.

P1 5.3 G: Climb the corner to its end at the left end of a steep flap–overlap. Step up left and follow an incredible line of pockets and crack to an oak tree below and left of a headwall in the main slab. 100'

P2 5.3 G: Climb slab left of the headwall (stay left of a left-rising, left-facing corner) until you can climb up and right onto the main slab. Move up easily to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree. 80'

P3 5.3 G: Scramble up left of the spruce tree to a crack on the left edge of the slab. Climb this through a flap, then continue up easy slab to a clearing on the left. Step left into the clearing to belay. 120'

P4 5.2 G: Scramble up and left onto wide slab, then work upward along blocks, flakes, and cracks to the top. One can also scramble up a brushy ramp to the right of the slab, then work through a screen of spruce branches to reach the top. 160'

Bon Chance   5.6   G (5.4 R)   100'   

Start: There are three narrow bands of knobs leading down the slab right of Le Jour de Bon Heures. The first one is immediately right, the second about ten feet right, the third about 20' right. Begin at a large flake right of the third line of knobs.

P1 5.6 G (5.4 R): Climb up and left to the line of plates and knobs and follow them to an overlap. Climb through the overlap at a point where it is double-stepped. Go up and left to the oak tree belay at the headwall. 100'

Benediction   5.6   G (5.3 R)   450'   

Start: Near the right end of the upper ledge, below a left-facing open book that leads to the right end of the flap that crosses most of the slab above the ledge.

P1 5.6 G (5.3 R): Go up a crack that leads right into the open book, then go up this to the overlap. Work through this, then move up and right to belay at a low spruce below and right of the headwall. 110'

P2 5.5 G (5.3 R): Climb up either of two short cracks (left one is part of Bella Vista) to a ledge. Mantel up the short face left of a spruce tree to easier climbing to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree. 100'

P3 5.3 R: Go up narrow slab right of spruce tree to a ledge. Step left into a clearing in the woods and belay. 120'

P4 5.3 R: Continue up narrow slab on the right to its top. 120'

Descent: Either walk up and left to join the other routes, or scramble down and right into a steep gully that leads down to the base of the slab.

Leftover   5.7   R (5.4 X)   125'

Start: 15' left of Bella Vista, near the left edge of the low end of the slab. There are a few meager edges here that allow progress.

P1 5.7 R (5.4 X): Climb up bulging start to easy, low-angled, dirty slab. Continue up to a pair of virtual seams (no gear) and go up, trending right, along the edge of the right-facing corner (cross Bella Vista where that route steps left onto the outside corner). Continue up to flap below mossy headwall, then traverse right to escape the slab. 125'

Bella Vista   5.7   G   560'   

The first pitch is especially good.

Start: At a hairline seam at the lowest point of the slab.

P1 5.7 G: Go up and right on some fragile rock steps, then go up the slab, moving first up and right, then weaving upward along faint undulations and occasional hints of seam to a large, right-facing open book. Move our left to a ledge (possible belay, gear anchor), then back right to a crack through a bulge. Go up the crack to where it disappears, then make some pure friction moves (5.5) up a steep section (about 5' right of the open book of Benediction). Continue over an overlap, then up unprotected slab (cross to the left of Benediction here) to the left of two short cracks; up this to a small ledge on the right side of an orange headwall. Step left onto headwall, use another short vertical crack and some knobs to reach easy ground. Work up to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree. Two rappels with a 60m rope are possible from here. 210'

P2 5.3 R: Same as P3 of Benediction; 120'

P3 5.6 G: (The crack described here was originally Belle Bottom Buttress): Scramble up and left onto a wider, low-angle slab with a steeper section above. Climb up left of center to a vertical crack, make a tricky move to reach it, then climb the crack to its end. Continue up easy face, then go between two small spruce trees just before reaching the top. 230'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group

Aspect: South

Height: 80'

Quality: *

Description: The Measles Wall Group is a cluster of small cliffs situated along the East Path, and the first cliffs you encounter when approaching from the parking area. The Measles Wall is mentioned on page 476 of Adirondack Rock (and on the map on page 481), although no routes were included.

There are several reasons to climb here: the approach is easy (by Crane standards), the routes are easy to find, the cliff base is pleasant, top rope anchors are abundant, and the cliffs are sheltered and south facing. The texture of the rock is unique: the rock feels grainy, like coarse sandstone, and the surface has weathered to form shallow pockets and divots, almost like a bad skin condition, or perhaps a bad case of the measles. Some of the walls are absolutely covered in divots, which makes for challenging route finding. If the angle were much steeper, then many of these faces would be too difficult for most climbers.

The East Path goes along the base of the Lower Measles Wall and then the Upper Measles Wall. Situated above the left end of the Lower Measles Wall is the Above-the-Measles Wall. Top-O-the-Measles Wall is above the right end of the Upper Measles Wall. Below-the-Measles Wall is below the path, out of view, and accessed from the base of the Upper Measles Wall.

Approach: 20 min, moderate

Directions: From the parking area, follow a well-traveled path (not the summit hiking trail) which starts next to the wooden railing (0 hr 0 min). Hike past a designated campsite and through a choke of boulders to the four corners area of Boulderwoods (near the Grand Central boulder) at 5 min. Pass through another choke of boulders, crest a small hill near the junction with the Boulderwoods loop (near the Bloodsport boulder), then descend to a level, fern-covered bench with logged clearings to the right (south). At 12 min follow the path as it turns left (northeast) and goes steeply uphill. Hike uphill and diagonal to the right below several large boulders. At 19 min you'll reach a level section at the left end of the Measles Wall Group, where you pass below the Lower and Upper Measles Walls; the path continues from there to the other cliffs in the Southeastern Area.

Descent: There are a few fixed anchors on both the Upper and Lower Measles Walls. Otherwise these cliffs all have easy walk-offs.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Above-the-Measles Wall

Above-the-Measles Wall is a steep, clean slab 80' above the East Path where it first levels off at the mossy left end of the Lower Measles Wall. It has the fewest pockmarks of the Measles Walls, making the routes here more typical of the region. To approach, go around the left end of the Lower Measles Wall on the herd path used to access the top of that cliff.

Most of the routes at Above-the-Measles Wall are top ropes on clean rock. There are no fixed anchors.

The Flu   5.5   PG   30'

Start: 15' right of the left end of the cliff, below a horizontal crack 5' up.

P1 5.5 PG: Up the rippled face past two horizontal cracks, then up the low-angle slab to the top. 30'

Trickagnosis   5.7   PG   40'   

There are many variations including a 5.10a toproped start that goes straight up to the exit crack.

Start: Same as The Flu.

P1 5.7 PG: Go up a stepped, right-rising flake to a horizontal crack. Traverse right 15', then up a vertical crack to the top. 40'

Mixamotosis   5.9   X   55'   

A good toprope route.

Start: At a clean water streak and a 4'-tall bulge at the base of cliff.

P1 5.9 X: Make a boulder move off the ground, then friction up to a discontinuous, left-rising, horizontal crack. Follow the crack leftwards to a blunt arête, and climb this to the top. 55'

Resistant Strain   5.11a   TR   55'   

Begin at the low-angled, blunt arête on the right side of the cliff. Go up the right side then move to the lower-angled left side and work up to a high bulge with a long left-facing flake. Make a crux move over the bulge and climb easily to the top.

Jungle Rot   5.10c   TR   40'

Begin 40' right of Resistant Strain on a separate cliff and below the right side of an arête. Climb flakes and knobs on a steep wall then finish on the arête.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Lower Measles Wall

This is a long, 50'-tall cliffband, the first cliff you reach on the East Path. It is low and mossy at its left end. All of the routes begin on the path, which makes a nice open area to belay. At the low point on the cliff is a spring, near the start of Hypoxia; from here the terrain climbs gradually past a deep corner (Cracklosis) on the left side of the detached Cracklosis Block. The terrain on the right side of the cliff slopes steeply uphill below a steep, sheer slab that is uniformly covered in shallow pockets and dimples. Several sustained routes ascend this face.

Descent: It is easy to walk off of either end of the cliff and there are many trees from which to anchor. There are fixed anchors on top of the right hand routes.

Hypoxia   5.5   R   30'

On the most pocketed section of the cliff. Often moss-covered.

Start: Immediately right of the spring that flows from below the low point of the cliff.

P1 5.5 R: Up the face to an overlap. Move up and left over the overlap, then up to the top. 30'

Run for Rabies   5.6   R   35'   

Start: 8' right of Hypoxia at a left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.6 R: Up the corner to a right-leaning crack. Step left and go over the crack, then climb to the top. 35'

Cracklosis   5.5   G   55'   

A good beginner lead. The variation makes for a good toprope introduction to pocketed face climbing.

Start: 25' right of Hypoxia at an offwidth crack in a left-facing corner, which is the left side of the Cracklosis Block.

P1 5.5 G: (V1) Up the corner to a ledge, then up a thin crack and slab to the top. 55'

VI Scared for Life 5.8 X: Climb the face to the left of the corner and join Cracklosis at the ledge.

Gear: to 4"

Hamburger Face   5.10a   TR   50'

Climbs the front of the Cracklosis Block. Go past a ledge at 7' then up a face to join Cracklosis at the top of the block.

Measly Little Corner   5.3   G   45'

Start: The right side of the Cracklosis Block, at a wide crack in a right-facing corner.

P1 5.3 G: Up the corner to a ledge, then finish on Cracklosis: up a thin crack and slab to the top. 45'

Pox   5.10b   G   35'   

Like the other routes on the face, the difficulties are sustained and insecure.

Start: At the left end of a ground-level overhang.

P1 5.10b G: Go straight up the pocketed face to a fixed anchor. 35'

I Am Lesion   5.10a   G   35'   

Start: At a 5'-long overhang at ground level, 10' uphill and right of Measly Little Corner.

P1 5.10a G: Begin with tricky moves up shallow pockets and divots, then up the sustained face to the top. 35'

Getcher Breakfast   5.10a   G   40'   

A well-protected route with a secure start.

Start: Near a horizontal mineral band and a square-cut jug 6' up from the base.

P1 5.10a G: Go up the face, easy at first, then with more challenging route-finding in a sea of shallow divots. After the last bolt, traverse right to the anchors of H1N1. 40'

H1N1   5.8+   G   30'   

Start: Below a right-leaning seam 7' up, where the path turns away from the cliff.

P1 5.8+ G: Zigzag right to left on positive holds, then go straight up to a fixed anchor. 30'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Upper Measles Wall

This is the longest and tallest of the cliffs in the Measles Wall Group. It is located 50' right of the Lower Measles Wall. The left side has a wide roof 25' up (climbed by Short Person's Disease) above a broad ledge which continues across the cliff splitting it into a steep top section and a slabby bottom section. The East Path goes past a cleaned section of pocketed slab with four routes; much like the routes on the right-hand side of the Lower Measles Wall, these routes are sustained for their grade, but thankfully the holds are a bit more positive and the wall isn't as steep, and the climbing is more accessible.

Descent: It is easy to walk around either end of the cliff and there are many trees from which to build anchors. There are fixed anchors for the routes on the right end of the cliff.

Little Fever   5.1   G   35'

Start: 30' uphill of the East Path, below the left end of the long roof at a spruce tree.

P1 5.1 G: Follow a left-leaning crack 20' across an easy slab. Climb a broken, right-leaning crack to the top. 35'

Craterface   5.4   R   45'

Start: Same as Little Fever.

P1 5.4 R: Climb up through a rock notch below a spruce tree, then climb straight up the face above the spruce on excellent pockmarks. Cross a left-rising dirty crack and finish at the high point of the slab. 45'

Roped Bouldering   5.10c C2   G   30'

Start: At the far left side of the Upper Measles Wall under the giant roof where an obvious crack splits its left side. This is right of (and around the corner from) Craterface, and 8' left of Short Person's Disease.

P1 5.10c C2 G: Scramble up the low-angled slab to the base of the crack splitting the roof. Climb the thin overhung face to gain the roof crack. Make a couple aid moves to reach the end of the roof crack, then flip over the roof edge and climb the low-angle slab to trees above. 30'

Short Person's Disease   5.8   G   50'

Start: 40' uphill of the East Path, below the right end of a long roof, at a huge, waist-high, horizontal flake.

P1 5.8 G: Crawl onto the flake and go right under the roof to a handcrack. Follow the crack around the right end of the roof, then step left and climb a slab to the top. 50'

El Muerte Rojo   5.6   G   70'   

Start: On the East Path at a 3'-long overlap at ground level, next to a beech tree with a forked trunk.

P1 5.6 G: Climb to a series of vertical pockets 10' up. Follow the pockets to a 10'-long finger and handcrack. At the top of the crack, climb the face with shallow pockets (crux) up to a broad ledge. Step right to finish on Full Moon Fever: go up a short, left-facing corner to an overhang and climb around its right end. Work up to a ledge and then scramble to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor. 70'

Full Moon Fever   5.7   G   70'   

Start: On the East Path, 8' right of El Muerte Rojo and 5' left of Cat Scratch Fever.

P1 5.7 G: Start up a sheer wall covered in shallow pockets. Zigzag left-to-right (V1) and gain a right-leaning handcrack. Follow the crack to a ledge. Go up a short, left-facing corner to an overhang and climb around its right end. Work up to a ledge and then scramble to a large pine tree with a fixed anchor shared with El Muerte Rojo. 70'

V1 5.8 R: Instead of going to the crack, move leftward (towards a bolt) toward El Muerte Rojo before reaching the ledge. From the ledge, go straight up the left side of then overhang, then continue directly through it to the high point of the cliff.

Cat Scratch Fever   5.9   G   40'   

Start: On the East Path, 6' left of a right-leaning crack that begins 8' up (climbed by Hydrophobia).

P1 5.9 G: Climb easy rock to a stance on a bulge. Move up, and slightly left, on shallow pockets. Diagonal up and right (V1) to a cruxy section below a broad ledge. Climb to the ledge and a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 5.8 G: Go left to the handcrack of Full Moon Fever.

Hydrophobia   5.3   G   40'   

Named for snowmelt in the upper crack during the first ascent.

Start: On the East Path, below a 20'-long, right-leaning crack that begins 8' up.

P1 5.3 G: Go up stepped ledges to the crack and climb to its end. Protect, and then traverse right to another handcrack and follow this to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 40'

Chilblain   5.6   R   30'

Start: Just right of a left-facing corner that is just right of the level section of the East Path. Look for a dry patch of dimples between two wet, mossy sections of rock.

P1 5.6 R: Climb dimpled rock without pro to the top, coming up 8' right of Hydrophobia. 30'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Top-O-the-Measles Wall

50' uphill and right of the Upper Measles Wall is this low, lichen-covered slab. This is 80' above the East Path at a position near the turn off to a viewpoint with a fire ring.

Pimples   5.5   R   45'

Start: 20' left of the low end of the slab.

P1 5.5 R: Climb slab and go between two trees near the top (Pustulence joins here from the right. First gear is at 30', after which the climbing eases. 45'

Pustulence   5.6   R   60'

Start: At the low point of the slab.

P1 5.6 R: Go up a blunt arête to a left-rising seam. Follow the seam for 15' then go straight to the top. 60'

Halitosis   5.8   PG   60'   

Start: At low point of slab, below a short vertical finger crack.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb to and up crack. Hard friction moves lead to a horizontal seam (Pustulence goes left across this feature). Go straight up the slab with several difficult friction moves to the top. 60'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Measles Wall Group: Below-the-Measles Wall

Below-the-Measles Wall is positioned below the East Path near the viewpoint with a fire ring. The cliff has a slabby bottom (with the route Cooties) and an overhanging top.

Directions: Approach from the right end of the Upper Measles Wall. From the East Path near the start of Hydrophobia, walk downhill toward a 20'-tall wall on the left. Continue downhill for 200' and work left to the base of the slab.

Cooties   5.0   X   60'

Start: At the lowest point on the slab, just left of center.

P1 5.0 X: Climb up and trend left across a broad slab to the top. 60'

Lead 102   5.2   G   50'   

Slightly wider spacing to the protection than its neighbor, and slightly more difficult climbing.

Start: 20' right of the left end of the slab.

P1 5.2 G: Climb face past a couple cracks to a fixed anchor. 50'

Lead 101   5.1   G   50'   

Start: 25' left of the obvious crack system of Social Climber.

P1 5.1 G: Follow fixed protection and two horizontal cracks to the top. 50'

Social Climber   5.0   G   50'

Start: Right of the low end of the slab, on a small dirty ledge below a crack leading to a right-facing corner.

P1 5.0 G: Climb corner to a ledge, then up and right to an oak tree belay. 50'

Descent: Walk climber's left along the ledge.

Social Pariah   5.3   R   50'

Start: On the face right of the right-facing corner that divides the slab.

P1 5.3 R: Go up the face, past a left-rising crack and a series of discontinuous left-rising cracks along the way, to the top of the slab. 50'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 500'

Quality: *

Description: The South Corner Cliffs are a collection of tiered cliffbands situated along the East Path. Although its name suggests that it forms a corner, it does not; rather, these cliffs are situated on the southernmost ridge of Crane Mountain. There are some very good single pitch routes (e.g., Sauron's Bolt of Horror, Oddy's Crack of Horror, Long Play), and Stairway to Heaven is a good multi-pitch, moderate route. Five separate sections are described, four of which are alongside the East Path: Height of Land Wall, Land of Overhangs, TeePee Wall, and Long Play Wall. The fifth section, known as the Upper Walls, is positioned above these walls and consists of a series of slabs and cliffbands that extend for several hundred feet up the mountain. A few pitches are recommended, but mostly the Upper Walls is an area where locals do some technical blueberry picking.

Approach: 28 min, strenuous

Directions: From the Measles Wall Group, continue on the East Path steeply uphill to a level section with a viewpoint and campfire ring on the right. Continue along the path, now going moderately uphill, to the Height of Land Wall, the leftmost of the South Corner Cliffs, 28 min from the parking area.

The Land of Overhangs is reached moments later, followed by the TeePee Wall at 31 min. A short distance further you reach the Long Play Wall; here the path turns away from the cliff to cross open talus, at 34 min.

Descent: All of the cliffs have fixed rappel anchors. Most of the routes are single pitch, and it is possible to walk off of many of them. Descent from the top of the Upper Walls is a combination of hiking down 2nd class ledges and short rappels.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Height of Land Wall

More of a landmark than a climbing destination, this cliff is 40' tall and 100' long. It has three routes toward its right end that are very close to the path. The approach to the Upper Walls goes around the left end of this cliff and then uphill for 250'. All three routes share a fixed anchor on a tree.

To Do   5.4   PG   35'   

Start: 15' left of the arête that is near the path, at a left-rising ramp below a right-facing corner.

P1 5.4 PG: Climb the corner to an overhang, step right, then up the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Ta Da   5.8-   R   35'

Start: At a left-rising flake at head height, immediately left of the start of Crane Fang.

P1 5.8- R: Go up the flake then up to a 4'-tall right-facing flake. Step left, then up the face to a tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Crane Fang   5.7+   R   35'   

Start: 5' left of the arête that is near the path, at a 12'-tall fingercrack in a right-facing corner.

P1 5.8- R: Up the fingercrack to its end, then continue past a 4'-tall right-facing flake (the Crane fang) to easier rock and a tree with a fixed anchor. 35'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Land of Overhangs

Along the East Path, 100' past the Height of Land Wall, is the jutting buttress of Land of Overhangs. The left side of this buttress has a 15'-deep roof 20' up, and to its right is a huge, right-facing, block-filled corner where the buttress meets the main cliff (at Immigrant Song). The left end of the wall slopes steeply uphill and is the location of the zigzag line of Raindance Roof. Right of the buttress is a long roof 30' up with the routes Roofer Madness and Tight for Two. Further right is a clean narrow buttress with a squeeze chimney on its left side and the route Spiral Staircase. Beyond here cliff diminishes in height and quality.

Raindance Roof   5.8   PG   85'   

A zigzag route that follows the left edge of the cliff.

Start: Left end of a deep roof, at a fistcrack in a right-facing corner.

P1 5.8 PG: (V1, V2) Go up the fistcrack to the roof and hand traverse left along a handcrack to a ledge. Move up left past another ledge then mantel (crux, tricky gear) onto a tree-covered ledge. Step left onto a steep face and climb enjoyable rock past an overlap to a tree with a fixed anchor. 85'

V1 Split Personality 5.8 PG: Start 10' left at a handcrack below a right-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Go right past the ceiling, then climb directly up the offwidth crack to a sloping ledge.

V2 5.6 G: Begin 50' uphill and left, avoiding the bottom half of the route, and climb a right-leaning crack to the tree-covered ledge.

Tom's Roof Project Project

This work-in-progress goes up a huecoed-face to an arête under the right side of the roof. Make a big reach to a horizontal crack that is above the roof and follow it left to a discontinuous crack that goes to the top.

Roofer Madness   5.10a   G (5.8 R)   80'   

A second pitch has been cleaned but not led.

Start: 20' right of the huge, block-filled, right-facing corner, below a left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1 5.10a G (5.8 R): Go up the corner past two pitons to an overlap. Work around the left side of the overlap, then back right (5.8 R) and up a mossy slab to the base of the long roof. Go out a tapering fistcrack to the lip of the roof, pull over the roof, then step left to a left-leaning handcrack. Follow the handcrack to a spruce shrub and go around its right side to a belay at a birch tree. 80'

Tighter than Two   5.11b   G (5.4 R)   80'   

The roof crack appears to take a #2 Camalot, but it does not.

Start: Same as Roofer Madness.

P1 5.11b G: Traverse right along a foot ledge, then climb over a mossy bulge to a dirty slab (5.4 R). Up the slab to a stance below the right side of the long roof. Reach for a fingercrack that starts half way out the roof and climb to the lip. Pull the lip and follow a tapering fingercrack on a slab to a birch tree (same as Roofer Madness). 80'

Misty Mountain Hop   5.8   G   50'

Start: 5' left of the start of Spiral Staircase at a left-facing flake near the ground.

P1 5.8 G: Reach and mantel (crux) onto a ledge 10' up. Go up a mossy face, past a horizontal crack, then past a ledge to another crack. Finish with a short slab that ends at a tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

Spiral Staircase   5.5   G   50'   

Start: On the East Path, at an offwidth crack in a short, left-facing corner.

P1 5.5 G: Follow the crack right past easy steps, then back left where it widens into a deep squeeze chimney. Climb this (crux) to a ledge and a tree with a fixed anchor (same as Misty Mountain Hop). 50'

Stairway to Heaven   5.8   G   245'   

Clean, varied and enjoyable climbing for P1 and P2. From the top of P2, the best route to the top of the South Corner Cliffs is to finish on Gray-Harrison.

Start: On the East Path, at the base of the clean, narrow buttress with a chimney on its left side and a birch tree 20' up.

P1 5.7 G: Go up to the first horizontal crack (unprotected, crux), then past a birch tree to the center of the narrow buttress. Go past horizontals to a belay on a ledge at an oak tree with a fixed anchor (same as Misty Mountain Hop). 50'

P2 5.7 G: Climb an S-shaped crack to a small oak tree. Move left to a ramp in an overhanging, right-facing corner. Follow the corner for 8' to a horizontal crack that overhanging left wall of the corner. Work out left using the horizontal crack and a good sidepull to a small ledge. Climb a 5.4 slab to a belay on a tree-covered ledge. 60'

P3 3rd class: Scramble over a short wall above the ledge and walk for 60' up a steep wooded slope to the base of a short cliffband with a right-leaning crack. 70'

P4 5.8 G: Follow the crack then make a long reach to a left-facing flake. Climb a short slab to a belay at a large oak tree on a long ledge. 30'

P5 5.7+ PG: Climb a right-leaning crack to its end then step right to another crack and follow this to a belay at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 35'

Gray–Harrison   5.8   PG   535'   

When combined with P1 and P2 of Stairway to Heaven, this is the recommended route to the top of the South Corner Cliffs. Although the pitches are short and dirty, the climbing is sustained and the protection is adequate.

Start: Top of P1 of Stairway to Heaven.

P1 5.8 PG: Walk left to a large, dirty, right-facing corner. Climb a short way up this, move left around the corner to a small stance, then climb up a difficult crack to a ledge. Move left to a tree with a fixed anchor. 80'

P2 5.7 PG: Climb a dirty crack past a large, dead pine tree, then up a dirty face to a sloping ledge. Step up along a low-angle slab to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Follow it to a short, steep headwall, then tunnel past dense trees to a steep wooded ledge. 75'

P3 2nd Class: Walk up and left to a right-rising, brushy ledge. Go right along this ledge, below P5 of Stairway to Heaven, to a low roof above the ledge. 175'

P4 5.7 G: Boulder up a broken, left-facing corner (which is left of the low roof) to a grassy ledge. Climb a steep crack that forks (V1). Follow the right crack past oak trees then scramble left to an oak tree with a forked trunk and a fixed anchor. 80'

P5 5.8- PG: (V2) Walk 10' right to a left-leaning crack and climb it for 30' to an overlap. Traverse right along the overlap to a vertical crack and follow it to a ledge and belay at a small birch tree. 65'

P6 5.8 G: Climb a steep fingercrack up a 12'-tall wall and make a tough move onto a grassy slab. Work up and right to a deep, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb up the wall on the left and make an exciting exit onto an easy slab. Tree belay at the top of the South Corner Cliffs. 60'

V1 Gray–Sointio 5.9 PG : Stay left and follow a horizontal crack across a clean steep face then reach to a higher crack and follow it to its end. Reach into a shallow left-leaning crack and follow it (crux) to a vegetated ledge. Scramble up to the oak tree belay on the next ledge.

V2 5.8 G (5.4 R): 5' left of the left-leaning crack is a long downward-pointing flake. Boulder up to the left side of the flake then move up and left to another long flake. Foot traverse left, then climb a face (5.4 R) to an overhanging, right-facing corner. Follow the corner and go over a steep wall (dirty) to the tree belay.

Robin's Rainy Day Route   5.0   G   70'

Not on the Land of Overhangs, but accessed from its right end. Much like the routes in the Upper Wall section, this one is in raw condition.

Start: Scramble up a wooded gully along the right end of the Land of Overhangs for 200' to a right-rising ramp that is above and right of the gully.

P1 5.0 G: Climb the rock ramp to a good ledge. 70'

Provando   5.7   G   65'

Hand jams, finger jams, crimps, pulls, and even a little a cheval maneuver. Presently very dirty; cleaned up this would be a recommended route.

Start: Below a vertical crack just right of a right-facing corner formed by stacked blocks, 120' up the approach gully of Robin's Rainy Day Route. There are two horizontal cracks leading to the crack from the left, the first about twelve feet up, the second about twenty. The crack becomes a body-sized, flaring pod 20' up.

P1 5.7 G: Climb crack using all available neighboring tools to get to the top. 65'

Riprovando   5.10b   G (5.6 R)   80'   

Start: 8' right of a corner comprised of stacked blocks, at a bulging face with two horizontal cracks below a left-rising crack. This is 200' right of (and below) Second Amendment, and level with (and 50' right of) the top of P2 of Stairway to Heaven.

P1 5.10b G (5.6 R): Climb up to the left-rising crack, make a difficult move to get into it (first crux) and follow it to its end at a small stance at the base of a short, flaring, wide crack. Move up and right on easier-angled rock, then follow good knobs up and right as the angle steepens again. Make a final difficult move (second crux), then follow a horizontal crack up and right to the top. 80'

Descent: Rappel. Alternatively, walk (climber's) left and descend a ledge, then work back right to downclimb (4th class) stacked blocks.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: TeePee Wall

This wall is a long cliffband that starts above the right end of Land of the Overhangs. It has short, single pitch routes and nearly all of them start on the East Path. On the left side, the TeePee Wall reaches its highest point at Sauron's Bolt of Horror, a thin vertical crack 70' uphill from the East Path. Most of the climbing is concentrated near a bulging wall with the right-rising rail of Half Man Half Wit. The right end, separated by a block-filled dirt ramp, has a tips crack on a steep slab—the route Oddy's Crack of Horror.

Sauron's Bolt of Horror   5.10c   G   60'   

Follows a steep and continuous crack on a sheer face.

Start: 70' from the East Path, uphill and left of the start of English Channel. Approach from the left by following the base of the wall uphill to a 4'-wide grass ledge above a terraced belay stance.

P1 5.10c G: Above the ledge is a vertical seam; follow this past the left end of an overlap to stepped ledges. Go up the ledges and continue up the seam as it widens and enters a left-facing corner on a bulging wall. Pull over the wall to a sloping stance in a right-facing corner. Up the corner and an overlap to a fixed anchor on a tree. 60'

English Channel   5.10a   R   50'   

Start: On the East Path, at the left end of the bulging wall, at a 1"-deep horizontal edge at waist height below a rock scar.

P1 5.10a R: Step up on the ledge, then up past a right-facing flake. Move left to a good horn (only pro in this section), work up and right to a short horizontal crack that turns vertical and becomes a fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack to a large ledge on the left. Step right onto a clean face with a right-facing flake, then go to a tree with a fixed anchor (shared with A Peney for Your Freedom). 50'

Rope Monster   5.11b   TR   40'   

Climbs the face between English Channel and A Peney for Your Freedom. Go past a horizontal crack 20' up and up the steep slab above it.

A Peney for Your Freedom   5.8+   G   50'   

The short, steep crack above the ledge (5.10a) has been climbed on toprope.

Start: On the East Path at the most obvious feature on the cliff—the full-height C-shaped crack. This begins 20' left of a right-rising rail of Half Man, Half Wit.

P1 5.8+ G: Go through a flare to a jug below a thin crack (small cam). Follow the crack as it flares, bends to the right, and goes to a ledge. Follow the crack up and right in a right-leaning corner to a tree. Walk left to a larger tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

Half Man, Half Wit   5.9   R   40'

Questionable rock and protection suggest that this is best climbed on toprope.

Start: On the East Path, at a right-rising rail below the bulging wall.

P1 5.9 R: Follow the rail around the bulging wall and work up parallel vertical seams to an overlap. Step left then go back right to a belay at a tree. 40'

Fool in the Forest   5.7+   G   35'

Start: On the East Path, 20' right of the right-rising rail of Half Man, Half Wit, at the leftmost of three left-leaning cracks.

P1 5.7+ G: Follow the crack past a chockstone in a slot to the right end of an overlap. Belay at a tree (same as Half Man, Half Wit). 35'

Woodland Idiot   5.6   PG   35'

Start: The rightmost of three left-rising vertical cracks before a gully that divides the TeePee Wall in half.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb crack to stance. Step left and climb through blocky chimney to the top. 35'

Oddy's Crack of Horror   5.10b   G   60'   

Good gear and stances from which to place it.

Start: On the East Path, at the right end of the cliff, at a sheer wall with a tips crack that begins 30' up.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up right-facing flakes to the right end of a horizontal crack. Work up and right past the crack to another horizontal crack. Continue up the tapering-to-tips fingercrack (crux) to a tree with a fixed anchor. 60'

Yodellaybackloon   5.6-   G   40'   

Start: 20' right of Oddy's Crack of Horror is a 30'-tall right-facing corner. Begin 30' right to access a ledge.

P1 5.6- G: Climb left to the base of the corner, then up the corner to its top. Place a 1" cam above for your second, then walk left to the fixed anchor on Oddy's Crack of Horror.

Gear: A large cam (5") is nice for the top.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Long Play Wall

This tall, sheer wall is the rightmost of the South Corner Cliffs. The route Long Play ascends its greatest height. A vegetated gully on the left separates this cliff from the TeePee Wall, and the right end is separated from the Isobuttress by a tree-covered slope. Like many cliffs on Crane Mountain, there are knobs, flakes and rib-like holds hidden beneath a thick carpet of lichen.

Descent: Rappel from a tree with a fixed anchor at the top of Long Play. One rappel can be made with a single 70m rope. Alternatively, make a long rightward rappel to an oak tree with a fixed anchor then make a second rappel to the ground.

Paris–Harrison   5.7   PG   200'

Not technically on the Long Play Wall, but accessed from its left end. Much like the routes in the Upper Wall section, this one is in raw condition.

Start: Hike up the vegetated gully on the left end of the cliff, then traverse the highest ledge for 400'. Go under a chest-sized block wedged between the cliff and a large boulder to the base of a tall wall with a low ceiling on its left end.

P1 5.7 PG: Boulder up to a narrow vegetated ledge. Go left to the right edge of a low ceiling, and follow a bushy vertical crack to a broken ledge. Traverse left 60' to a large, right-facing corner. Up the corner to a moss-choked horizontal crack and follow it right (careful of rope drag), then up to a sloping vegetated ledge. Tree belay. 200'

Induhvidual   5.7   G (5.3 R)   50'   

Start: Hike 200' up the vegetated gully on the left end of the cliff to a narrow, treed ledge on the right. Follow this ledge rightwards under tiered roofs. Start to the right of the roofs and below a large right-facing corner.

P1 5.7 G (5.3 R): Climb a dirt cone to the base of a wide crack in the corner with a birch tree 7' up. Go up the wide crack (V1) 12' to a horizontal crack on the right wall. Follow this to an arête then finish on an easy, unprotected slab that ends at a tree-covered ledge at the top of the wall. 50'

V1 Big Man's Bane 5.6 G: Continue up the crack, which widens to a squeeze chimney, to the top.

Fifty Grades of Spray   5.10d   G   130'   

Challenging, well-protected crimping and slab climbing. Several gear placements require some creativity involving small TCUs and equalized small nuts.

Start: Same as Bodhi Tree.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the initial crack of Bodhi Tree to the optional belay on the ledge to the left. Fixed anchor. 50'

P2 5.10d G: Step left on the ledge and climb up to a horizontal seam 10' up (#000 C3, small nuts). Continue straight up the vertical wall on crimps to where the angle eases. Continue up a steepening slab to a horizontal break, then up more slab to an overlap (#0 C3, small nuts). Go over this, then angle up right to a fixed anchor on a tree (shared with Bodhi Tree). 80'

Gear: Camalots 1 ea #000, #0, #1, #0.75, and #0.5; small nuts; quickdraws.

Bodhi Tree   5.9   G (5.5 R)   140'   

Spectacular exposure and good climbing. The two pitches can be combined with an eye towards reducing rope drag.

Start: 60' left and uphill from Willie's Danish Prince, go up a steep chimney-like gully and locate a casket-sized rock that bridges a gap in the chimney. Walk under block and begin on top of it at a left-facing corner. This is about 100' right of Paris–Harrison.

P1 5.9 G: Walk across the balanced rock bridge to the left-facing corner and climb it to its end at a low-angled ramp. There is a fixed anchor on the slab to the left. 50'

P2 5.8 G (5.5 R): Step back right and aim up and slightly right for an overhanging, left-arching, thin-hands crack. Climb the crack to its end, then go up right and up on a plated face with horizontals, then up and left to a tree and anchor. 90'

Descent: A 70m rope just makes it back to the start of the route. With a 60m rope, make two rappels, or a single rappel angling left.

Willie's Danish Prince   5.9+   PG   110'   

It is, after all, his longest play.

Start: At a small, right-facing corner–flake, 20' left of where the trail reaches the cliff. This is 15' left of Long Play. There is a 7'-tall, loose rock pasted to the face just right of the corner–flake; you don't need to touch it, and probably shouldn't.

P1 5.9+ PG: Climb up onto the top of the flake, avoiding the loose rock. Climb up and step right on holds above the block. Make a tenuous move up, then right, then left, then up onto a ledge. Traverse right to a handcrack in a left-facing corner and follow it to a stance below an overhang, at a point where a vertical seam runs a few feet up the face above. Climb through the overhang here, step left, go up, then left, then up again to a good horizontal. Climb up and left on good holds and easier-angled rock to the ledge. 110'

Long Play   5.10a   G   110'   

Both a low and high crux. The middle second has more spaced protection, but with amazing, positive holds and clean rock.

Start: Where the East Path is closest to the cliff, below a steep, shallow, right-facing corner with a short fingercrack 7' up.

P1 5.10a G: Go up the corner, then make a tough reach to parallel cracks on the right (first crux). Follow the cracks to a broad ledge. Step right, go over a steep wall to a right-rising ramp (sling the flake on the left for only pro) and follow it past a horizontal crack. Go up and left past another horizontal to a long overlap. Above the overlap, work up a steepening wall past a horizontal crack, then crimp up a short face (second crux) to another horizontal crack. Work left past an overhang and finish at a tree with a fixed anchor. 115'

Descent: A 70m rope is required to lower off.

Gear: Doubles to 2".

Moehammed, Larry, & Curly   5.8+   G   110'   

Varied climbing separated by ledges.

Start: 30' right of Long Play, below a vertical crack at head-height.

P1 5.8+ G: Make a hard move to gain the crack. Move up to an overhang and reach out left to a long, left-facing flake. Go up the flake and climb a short handcrack to sloping ledges at the base of a left-facing corner. Climb a fingertip flake (small gear) and make a long reach to a horizontal crack that turns vertical and goes over a bulge to a ledge (V1). Work up to an overhang with stacked flakes; pull over this, then go past a jutting block and scramble up and right to a tree belay. 110'

V1 Hail Mary 5.8- PG : Belay at the ledge below the overhang with stacked flakes. Go left along a ledge, then below an overhang, to a point where good holds are followed to a left-rising horizontal crack. Follow the crack, cross Long Play 15' below its headwall crux, and join Induhvidual at a blunt arête on the left end of the cliff. Finish on Induhvidual: climb an easy, unprotected slab that ends at a tree-covered ledge at the top of the wall.

Descent: Walk left 20' to the fixed anchor at the top of Long Play.

Muckraker   5.9   PG   55'

Start: 40' right of Moehammed, Larry, & Curly at the leftmost of 3 vertical cracks that end at a right-leaning crack at head height.

P1 5.9 PG: Go up to a tenuous stance above the slanting crack and make a balancy reach to a good sidepull. Reach up to a right-rising crack (first pro) and climb this until you can make a move left to a right-facing corner. Up this to a ledge (V1). Advance over a triangular chockstone onto another good ledge. Go up the obvious crack to a sloping ledge finish. 55'

V1 5.10a TR: Climb the narrow seam–tips crack to its end. Bump to a good hold, then rejoin the normal route at the handcrack.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: South Corner Cliffs: Upper Walls

This collection of lower-angled, short, dirty cliffbands and slabs is situated above the Height of Land Wall, Land of Overhangs, and TeePee Wall. The reason to go here is for the sake of exploration, getting a good view, and gaining experience in climbing dirty routes. None of the routes have been extensively cleaned and should not be attempted in wet conditions. Climbing with a light pack, a wire brush, and comfortable shoes is recommended.

The left side has a long, tall right-facing arch above a low slab—the route McNeill–Harrison. To its right is a short, steep slab with four blueberry-named routes. Further right is the tallest slab, which has the cleanest rock and the best route, Solar Grace.

Descent: Rappel anchors are found on trees at the top of Madame Blueberry and Solar Grace.

Directions: The Upper Walls are not visible from the East Path, and are best approached from the base of the Height of Land Wall. From the East Path, go left along the base of the Height of Land Wall to its left end. Hike steeply uphill and go right of a small slab to reach the base of the Upper Walls near the start of Blueberry Tafone; this is 250' above the left end of the Height of Land Wall. The base of this route is a reference for locating the other routes in this section.

The upper pitches of McNeill–Harrison and Lane–Harrison have not been described. The first pitches of these routes have been described in order to direct you in the right direction if you wish to continue upward.

McNeill–Harrison   5.9   G (5.7 R)   540'

Climbs over a long, right-arching, right-facing wall and continues up broken rock along the left side of the Upper Walls, to a poorly protected pitch (5.7 R) at the top. Only the first pitch is described.

Start: 200' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, at the bottom left end of a long, right-arching, right-facing wall that sits above a low-angled slab, at a right-leaning fingercrack on a vertical wall.

P1 5.9 G: Go up the fingercrack then hand traverse left along a ledge to the top of an overhang. Go up a steep slab to the base of a low-angle, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to a horizontal crack (just before the corner becomes shrub-filled) and follow it left to a belay on a slab below the woods. 100'

Blueberry Crumble   5.7-   R   50'   

Start: 100' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, below the center of a steep, 50'-tall slab, at a right-facing flake.

P1 5.7- R: Go up the flake to a stance, then make unprotected moves past right-facing flakes to a wide, left-leaning crack that is followed to a ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree. 50'

Madame Blueberry   5.6   PG   50'   

Start: 90' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, below a 50'-tall steep slab at a right-leaning crack.

P1 5.6 PG: Go up the crack, then step left and follow a left-leaning, right-facing corner. (V1) Move right across a slab (crux) to a handcrack; go up this to a ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree (shared with Blueberry Crumble). 50'

V1 Blueberry Flapjacks 5.5 PG : Step left, go up a blunt arête, then finish at the ledge with a fixed anchor on a tree.

BLC   5.7   PG   70'

The name stands for Blueberry Ledge Chimney.

Start: 80' uphill and left of Blueberry Tafone, below a short chimney formed by a block perched on the slab.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the chimney (crux), then scramble up grassy ledges. Trend right and finish at a broad tree-covered ledge. 70'

Blueberry Tafone   5.6   PG   140'   

This route trends up and left from the lowest point on the slab. A tafone is a pocket formed by the weathering of rock.

Start: At the low point of the Upper Walls, below a diamond-shaped slab with a narrow, right-rising ledge that begins at the ground.

P1 5.6 PG: Follow the ledge for 20' to a left-leaning, zigzag crack. Go up the crack past a left-facing, left-leaning corner to a tall wall. Reach left and go over the wall to a hollow section of rock, then move up left along a horizontal rail to a pointed flake leading to a wide crack. Climb the crack to its end and finish at the broad tree-covered ledge. 140'

Lane–Harrison   5.3   PG   450'

After the initial slab, this route avoids any hint of exposed rock.

Start: At the belay ledge above Blueberry Tafone, below a short slab with a long, overhanging wall above it.

P1 5.3 PG: Go up a short steep slab to the overhanging wall and go around its left end. Climb up a steep, brushy groove past a large spruce tree, over several short slabs, then move up and right of a large roof. Belay at a tree on the left end of a long ledge. 190'

Second Amendment   5.10b   G (5.6 R)   200'

When both variations are climbed, it eliminates both 5.10 moves and reduces the grade to 5.8+; known as Bill of Rights.

Start: About 20' left of Solar Grace, and six feet left of the bottom of a right-rising crack right of the center of the largest expanse of rock. This route climbs a clean, dry streak of orange rock between two mossy wet stripes. It is about 60' right of a large, dirty, right-facing corner system.

P1 5.10b G (5.6 R): (V1) Climb up face below and slightly left of a shallow "scoop" or rounded ledge, and work up onto the stance. Continue up clean rock, following knobs and gear through two overlaps to a semi-hanging stance at a wide horizontal crack. 100'

P2 5.10b G (5.6 R): Climb up easy plates and knobs to an overhang, step right (V2) and climb through overhang using a sloping, right-rising crack. Climb directly up steep face, pull over onto an easy slab and scramble to a fixed tree anchor. 100'

V1 5.8+ G: Climb up right-rising crack, traverse left to scoop and continue as normal to the belay.

V2 5.8+ G: At the overhang, step left and climb straight up the left edge of block–face, staying close to the left edge for gear.

Descent: Two rappels witha 60m rope.

Solar Grace   5.6+   R   90'   

Tricky gear placements in shallow, flared cracks. This route can also be reached by walking 100' left of the top of P3 of Stairway to Heaven.

Start: 50' right of the start of Blueberry Tafone, below the right side of a 150'-tall, steep slab with a water worn streak, at a moss-covered slab with a short, clean handcrack that starts 6' up.

P1 5.6+ R: Up the handcrack to a grass-covered ledge below a large, hollow flake. Follow a left-facing corner then go back left across the top of the flake (5.6 R) to the base of a shallow, flared handcrack. Go up the crack, past a horizontal on the left, then step left to the base of a pretty face covered with knobs. Go up the face staying left of a short flared crack. Go past a horizontal and scramble to an oak tree with a fixed anchor. 90'

Solo, Gracias   5.7   R   120'

Start: Same as Solar Grace.

P1 5.7 R: Climb up mossy, right-facing corner, thrashing through a screen of spruce and oak branches until your patience wears thin, then opt for the less-painful but more dangerous face on the left (5.7 R) to move up and right to the beginnings of a decent crack. Climb this to where it joins a right-rising edge of a thin "gong" flake (possible escape left to the fixed anchor of Solar Grace). Take the flake and adjacent crack to a good ledge. An oak tree up and right has a fixed anchor to rappel.

Never Alone   5.7   G   100'   

Start: From Solar Grace, scramble up a steep, narrow, right-rising ramp to a point where an overhang below a block is at waist level. This is beside an oak tree. The block has a main left-leaning horizontal crack in it, with a shorter crack below it, and another, very short one above it near its right end.

P1 5.7 G: Climb up to horizontal, then follow a left-leaning crack to its end. Step up onto a stance=, then follow a horizontal crack left 12' to a right-rising crack. Follow right-rising crack to its end at a horizontal, step left to vertical crack and climb this to its end at a horizontal crack. Step up and left onto final slab on good, though sparse knobs. 100'

On the Fence   5.5   G   105'   

Start: Same as Never Alone.

P1 5.5 G: Scramble up right along ramp to a narrow ledge. Traverse left on ledge to a stance at the base of a right-rising ramp, and climb this to a wide crack on the left. Up this to a horizontal, then traverse left to another vertical crack. Follow this as it swings right, then up to a ledge. 105'


Crane Mountain: Southern Area: Pinnacle Overlook

Directions: Follow the East Path past the Long Play Wall to a section of open talus, just before you reach the Isobuttress. Pinnacle Overlook is the large boulder on the right in the open talus.

Keystone   5.10a   PG   45'

Short, but packed with variety. The crux move is made with gear below your feet.

Start: Begin on the downhill side of the boulder, at a left-facing flake 10' right of the left edge of the boulder. It is easier to rappel to the start of the route from the fixed anchor on top of the boulder.

P1 5.10a PG: Climb the flake to a horizontal crack. Mantel this (crux), then step left to a gear placement under an overlap. Friction up past a bolt to the fixed anchor at the top of the boulder. 45'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Diagonal Ramp Wall

This short wall lies on the left side of a steep, wooded, right-rising ramp behind the Isobuttress. (The ramp is the only nontechnical approach to Crane's summit from this part of the mountain.) The wall is 40' tall and sports several good crack lines.

Directions: Go to the route Long Play, which is about 30' above the East Path. Follow the path to the right along the base of the wall; shortly past Muckraker, drop into a small swale by a mossy wall (the winter route DR Drip), then reach the Diagonal Ramp—a steep, wooded slope rising behind the left side of the Isobuttress. The cliff begins a short way up the ramp and runs along it to the top of the ramp.

You can also reach this wall by climbing one of the Isobuttress routes all the way to the top: continue up 10' above the fixed anchor, then walk left to the Diagonal Ramp. You come almost directly to Kielbasy Posse.

Kill It Before It Spreads   5.7+   G   40'   

Start: On ledge at vertical crack near left end of the wall.

P1 5.7+ G: Climb widening crack to a blocky alcove at the top. 40'

Gear: To 4".

Fang Time   5.9+   G   75'   

Longest route on the Diagonal Ramp Wall, made so by making a traverse Tun Tavern.

Start: 10' left of Tun Tavern at a short, vertical crack in a left-facing corner that meets a right-rising crack 10'.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb crack in corner for 10', then follow the right-rising crack to join the right-facing corner of Tun Tavern. Follow corner for 20' to a wide, right-rising crack; follow this to a large, right-pointing flake. Climb behind or over flake, then follow right-rising cracks and features to the fixed anchor of Felonious Mopery. 75'

Gear: Standard rack plus doubles from #0.5 to #3 Camalot.

Tun Tavern   5.8+   G   50'   

Start: 10' of Tun Tavern and 25' right of Unnamed07 and 15' left of Felonious Mopery at a crack just right of a large, right-facing corner. There is a shallow seam 4' left of this crack.

P1 5.8+ G: Up the crack to the corner, (V1) break through the roof, then go straight to the top. 50'

V1 5.7 G: Partway up the corner finish on Fang Time: follow a right-rising crack system. Move up and left behind a large flake, then right to finish at the top of Felonious Mopery.

Felonious Mopery   5.9-   G   50'   

Start: At a tiny, left-facing, 7'-high corner, above which is a vertical crack that breaks through an overhang 30' up.

P1 5.9- G: Climb corner and cracks to overhang. Continue up handcrack to a fixed anchor on a tree at the top of the cliff. 50'

Norman's Crack of Joy   5.8   G   50'   

Start: At a pair of vertical cracks. One crack ends 20' up, and the other continues.

P1 5.8 G: Climb cracks to the top. 50'

Kielbasy Posse   5.10a   G   40'   

Start: On the right side of an alcove between two opposing corners, below a large chockstone.

P1 5.10a G: Climb up and over the chockstone, bridging the gap of the alcove. Follow a vertical crack until it turns right and fades, then climb excellent face (V1), veering right to better holds, to a final crack near the top. 40'

V1 5.10b G: Climb directly to the final crack.

Leapin' Louie   5.10a   R   35'

A one-move wonder that requires a #000 C3 to protect the initial crux moves. Named for the miniature poodle that fell 20' off a ledge during the first ascent.

Start: At a seam 6' right of the alcove of Kielbasy Posse.

P1 5.10a R: Climb seam and face to its left to a pointed block stance below two nonparallel seams. Climb seams to a short crack that leads to a right-rising, small open book. Climb the face left of the open book, up a crack behind a flake to one final crack at the top. 35'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Isobuttress

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 150'

Quality: ***

Approach: 35 min, strenuous

Description: The Isobuttress is the tallest and most distinct section of rock along the East Path. Short for "isolated buttress", the 35 min approach certainly adds to the isolation of climbing on Crane Mountain. It is boarded on the left by the Long Play Wall, and on the right by the Amphitheater. The base area is compact and comfortable, and the path conveniently diverges to the nearby sections of the Black Arches Wall, making the Isobuttress a good place to stage a day of climbing.

The Isobuttress has a couple of very good, two-pitch moderate routes and a few good single-pitch routes. Several of the routes are clean with excellent rock, and there's a good mix of climbing including pure friction, an exposed roof near the top, varied crack sizes, and face climbing on knobs and incut edges. At the base of the cliff is a 25'-tall, friction slab with a steep, cracked wall above it. Most of the first pitches end above the steep wall with the second pitches conveniently converging at a summit ledge. The upper pitches are lower angled and make it easy to choose your own adventure and finish as you desire. The bottom left end, near Carpenter and Das, seeps during wet conditions, but the right end (near E-Stim) dries quickly.

Directions: Follow the East Path, past the Measles Walls and South Corner Cliffs (do not walk along the base of the Long Play Wall), to a section of open talus with a view toward the Isobuttress, 34 min from the parking area. Contour a short distance and go across wooded talus to reach the left end of the Isobuttress near the start of Carpenter and Das.

Descent: There is a fixed rappel anchor at the top of the cliff where Carpenter and Das and E-Stim finish. Make an 80' rappel to a fixed anchor on the spruce tree at the top of P1 of Recuperation Boulevard, then a second rappel (40') to the base. In addition, there are rappel anchors on top of Adirondack Rehab and P1 of E-Stim.

Carpenter & Das   5.7+   G   150'   

Memorable crack climbing on P2.

Start: Where the East Path reaches the base of the Isobuttress, at a 9'-tall steep wall left of a broad slab.

P1 5.7 G: Go left of the steep wall and up to a long, sloping ledge. Continue left to a prominent right-leaning crack and follow it for 5'. Step left and work up a vertical crack with a suitcase-handle flake to two right-arching cracks. Follow the cracks to a horizontal crack below a sloping ledge 60' up. Move up onto the ledge, then traverse to the left end of the ledge (a 3" cam is helpful to protect the second before the traverse). Belay at a horizontal crack with a vertical crack that rises above it. 70'

P2 5.7+ G: (V1) (V2) Use a 4'-tall flake to the right to gain a vertical crack which widens to hands. Follow the crack to a ledge on the left, then climb easy rock up a right-rising ramp. Go up a thin, vertical crack to a triangular roof (V3); pass this on the right via a right-facing corner with horizontal holds. Continue up the corner to a horizontal crack and follow this left to an arête. Up this easily to a tree-covered ledge with a rappel anchor below the ledge. 80'

V1 5.7 G: Step left and climb 8' up a manky open book. Hand-traverse right along a thin crack to the vertical crack above the belay.

V2 5.6 G: Move right and climb past the 4'-tall flake, then traverse back left to the vertical crack before the triangular roof.

V3 5.5 G: Hand-traverse right under the triangular roof, then move back left to the horizontal crack.

Intensive Care   5.8   R (5.6 X)   140'

A direct route squeezed between Carpenter & Das and Recuperation Boulevard.

Start: At a tiny left-facing corner at head height, 4' right of a rock lying again the face (which marks the start of Carpenter and Das).

P1 5.8 R (5.6 X): Boulder up to the long, sloping ledge. Step right to the left end of a slab and friction (5.6 X) to the base of a steep wall. Go to a ledge, then up steep rock to the right end of the belay ledge on P1 of Carpenter and Das. Step right, go past an overhang, then up ledges to the right of the P1 anchor of Recuperation Boulevard. Go right and up clean rock to the right of a vegetated strip; continue up steepening rock right of the triangular roof on Carpenter and Das. Climb straight up (5.8 R) past a rappel station to the tree-covered ledge at the top. 120'

Outpatient   5.8+   PG   140'

The first pitch is a linkup of several routes and variations previously climbed

Start: Same as Intensive Care.

P1: Make a bouldery move to a ledge. Walk right onto the slab of Recuperation Boulevard; use its second bolt for first pro. Follow Recuperation Boulevard through the niche to a horizontal crack running right; follow this crack rightwards to a left-facing corner (this is V2 of Recuperation Boulevard). Climb the corner to its top and traverse right to an oak tree on a ledge (the top of Lane Change). 60'

P2: Climb the large right-facing corner and up the steep headwall. At the overhang, break right (very committing move). Either work back up left and traverse to the anchors or walk up and right to the ledge at the top of Post Op. 80'

Recuperation Boulevard   5.7   G   125'   

P1 is popular and is deceptively challenging. There are several toprope variations off of the P1 anchor. A lone bolt located left of P2 is not a part of any route (yet).

Start: Left end of the broad slab at a hollow flake at head height, where the path forks.

P1 5.7 G: (V1) Step up onto the flake and friction left along the left side of the slab. Go up a water-worn fracture to a steep wall. Step right and climb to a ledge under a ceiling. Move left to a left-facing corner; up this (V2) past a long overhang to a belay at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

P2 5.5 PG: Go left and up to a vegetated ledge with a rectangular block. Step right and go up a vegetated strip to clean rock. Work up and right to a stance below a right-facing scoop. Go up the scoop past a left-facing flake to a horizontal crack. Step above the crack and up a clean face with good edges (5.5) to a sloping ledge. Continue to the spacious, treed ledge with a fixed anchor located directly below it. 75'

V1 5.10b G: Begin 10' left of the regular start and make a boulder move off a fingertip left-hand side-pull flake directly up to the first bolt and rejoin the normal route.

V2 5.8 PG: Traverse right to a left-facing corner, then up to good holds that are followed left to the spruce tree belay.

Adirondack Rehab   5.10a   G (5.7 R)   80'   

Start: 20' left of the right end of the Isobuttress, at the center of the slab under a long overhang 20' up.

P1 5.10a G (5.7 R): Friction up the slab (5.8+) to crumbly flakes under the overhang. Reach out past the overhang to an incut rail and pull up (crux) to a horizontal crack with a vertical, thin-hands crack above it. Follow the crack to a good stance below an arête with a steep wall to its left. Trend left across the wall (5.7 R) then up to a fingercrack; go up this to a fixed anchor. 80'

Scaredy Cat   5.11b   PG   45'   

Start: Below a flared handcrack and left-leaning crack that converge 8' up.

P1 5.11b G: Follow the cracks, then work left and up a slab to the right end of a long overhang. Pull over the overhang to a long horizontal crack (3" cam), then out right to a vertical seam. Reach to a higher horizontal crack and climb easier rock to a belay at an oak tree. 45'

Lane Change   5.9+   G   45'   

A short crux on a short route.

Start: Same as Scaredy Cat.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the left-leaning crack, then move right past a horizontal crack to a vertical fingercrack. Follow the fingercrack into opposing corners (crux) to a good ledge on the right. Belay at the oak tree on the left or join P1 of E-Stim to finish at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 45'

E-Stim   5.6   G   140'   

Start: At a handcrack that becomes an offwidth 20' up, 10' left of the right end of the Isobuttress.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the widening crack on a steepening wall past good flakes and horns on the right to a small tree on a sloping ledge. Move left to a flared handcrack and follow it to a large spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 70'

P2 5.6 G: Traverse left on a ledge and go up to the base of a long, tall, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to the higher of two ledges that cut left across the steep wall. Hand traverse the ledge (5.6) to a stance on an arête and above the fixed anchor of Adirondack Rehab. Work across the face past a pointed, right-facing flake to a right-facing scoop (now joining Recuperation Boulevard). Go up the scoop past a left-facing flake to a horizontal crack. Step above the crack and up a clean face with good edges (5.5) to a sloping ledge. Continue to the spacious, tree-covered ledge with a fixed anchor located directly below it. 70'

Gear: Two 4" cams will adequately protect the offwidth on P1.

Post Op   5.9   G   140'   

Start: Right end of the Isobuttress at a right-facing corner that begins 7' up.

P1 5.7+ G: Go up ledges to the corner under an overhang. Up the corner then left to a handcrack and follow this to an easy slab. Go up the slab along the right edge of the cliff to the spruce tree at the top of P1 of E-Stim. Follow dual cracks to a belay at a tree on the right edge of the cliff and below a steep, right-facing corner. 90'

P2 5.9 G: Climb the corner to its top, step left onto a slab, and up past a large pine tree to the top. 50'

Descent: Go left for a short, easy pitch to get to the treed ledge with fixed anchor directly below it.

Full Recovery   5.6   G   165'   

A girdle traverse that starts at Post Op and finishes on Carpenter and Das. Starting on E-Stim is a popular option.

Start: Same as Post Op.

P1 5.6 G: Go up ledges to the corner. Traverse left along a horizontal crack to a ledge near the top of the offwidth on E-Stim. Continue left across the ledge above the crux of Lane Change, then along the face and under the 5.7 R section of Adirondack Rehab. Hand traverse a tree-covered ledge to the spruce tree at the top of P1 of Recuperation Boulevard. 75'

P2 5.6 G: Walk left along the belay ledge then up and left onto a higher ledge. Continue left to the vertical handcrack on P2 of Carpenter and Das. Follow Carpenter and Das to the top using V3 to avoid the roof and keep the difficulty at 5.6. 90'


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 145'

Quality: ****

Approach: 40 min, strenuous

Description: The Black Arches Wall is the last cliff on the East Path and is a steep and complex cliff, with a cliff base that drops quickly from left to right. Terracing of the base of several routes and several spur paths along ledges provide access to the different sections of the cliff. The cliff is divided into two sections—the Amphitheater and Main Face—which are reached from two paths that begin at the base of the Isobuttress.

The Amphitheater is approached from the right end of the Isobuttress where a spur path leaves the East Path, goes below the routes, and ends at a vegetated ledge below Gun Show. This cliff section has three tall, right-facing walls that are capped by tiered roofs. The left wall marks the beginning of the Amphitheater, and it forms an impressive right-leaning corner with stepped roofs that is climbed by Birthday Corner. Between the left and middle right-facing walls is a steep, broad face with the routes Amphitheater Crack, Broken Broom and Pinch an Inch. Further right, the tiered roofs are most impressive and are framed by the rightmost of the right-face walls and the opposing wall of Gun Show. Several chimneys go upward toward the roofs; the one on the right has the route Tribulations. Above the start of Tribulations on the right of the roofs is the striking arête that is climbed by Four Ounces to Freedom.

The Main Face has several distinct buttresses separated by two tall, sheer, right-facing walls. The East Path leads to the base of the leftmost buttress with Torcher and Eating Tripe and Lichen It, with an offwidth crack down low and a long ceiling/roof 70' up. (The buttress also contains Gun Show, but that route is more easily approached from the Amphitheater.) Immediately right is the buttress of Black Arches Arête, and right of this is a tree-covered ledge—the Patio Ledge—that starts 20' up from the path and is accessed by a short, chockstone-filled chimney. Black Arch Arête, Cranium, Parallel Passage and Plumb Line begin from this ledge. Much smaller, but still striking in appearance is the buttress of Plumb Line that stands between the two tall, sheer, right-facing walls. Below the access chimney to the Patio Ledge, the East Path drops steeply below and around a vegetated cliffband to the right side and lowest point of the Main Face; here there is a broad slab with the route Critical Crimps. This is the tallest section with the longest routes, and has twin roofs near its top. Just below these roofs is a belay ledge know as the Attic Ledge. Uphill and right of the slab are broken corners near the start of Second Job and Crossway. The cliff diminishes in height with a last buttress of rock containing the short route Suicidal Sydney.

Directions: From the base of the Isobuttress a spur path goes left (uphill) for one minute to the Amphitheater section. The East Path goes downhill to the left end of the Main Face of Black Arches Wall (39 min from the parking area) near the starts of Torcher and Eating Tripe and Lichen It. Continue right to reach a 20'-tall, chockstone-filled chimney with the approach to Patio Ledge. From here, follow an exposed ledge to the base of the Main Face, or descend steeply below a low vegetated cliff band to reach the lowpoint of the cliff, a slab below a low-angled arête, near the start of Critical Crimps (40 min).

Descent: There are several fixed anchors equipped for rappel with a 60m rope. The exception is Black Arch Arête, which requires a 70m rope. From the top of the cliff, go climbers right and make short rappels down a tree-filled depression right of Crossways.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall:Amphitheater

Here I Go Again   5.6   PG   70'   

Start: From the right end of the Isobuttress, follow the spur path into the woods for 100' to the 2'-wide, vertical chimney climbed by Amnesia Chasm. Start 3' left of the chimney at a short, left-facing corner.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the corner to its end, step left and go up an arête to a pedestal that is separated from the main cliff by a wide crack. Tie off the pedestal, step across the crack and climb a steep face (crux) to a sloping, tree-covered ledge. 70'

Amnesia Chasm   5.8   G   75'

Named because, "it's forgettable, once the scars heal."

Start: From the right end of the Isobuttress, follow the spur path into the woods for 100' to the 2'-wide, vertical chimney.

P1 5.8 G: Up the chimney and over a capstone boulder to a large, dirty ledge. Climb an arête on the right to a belay at a spruce tree on the left end of a ledge. 75'

Gear: Cams to 4".

Drive   5.9   G   140'   

The crux is getting off the ground, after which the climbing is interesting, varied, but easier. Still quite dirty.

Start: From Amphitheatre Crack, walk up and left along the base of the cliff to the ledge on the outside of a large right-facing corner near the left end of the Amphitheatre, 5' left of an offwidth crack, 10' above the approach trail, and 20' right of Amnesia Chasm.

P1 5.9 G: Make a hard move up and around the corner onto the main face to reach a good crack. Follow this to a large ledge with a deep chimney in its floor. 65'

P2 5.7+ G: Just left of an outside corner, climb face and intermittent vertical cracks left to a ledge with a spruce tree 20' to the left. Continue up a vertical crack to the top of the cliff. 75'

Descent: Walk up and (climber's) right to a spruce tree with a fixed anchor above the Amphitheatre Crack fixed anchor. 2 rappels.

Nasty Seven   5.7+   R   80'

Start: On the left end of the slanting block lying in the path leading to the main climbing area of the Amphitheatre. This is 12' right of the large right-facing corner formed by the wall with Drive and the main face, and 8' left of Birthday Corner.

P1 5.7+ R: Climb up a bouldery short face to a ledge. Traverse left 15' to a stance behind an oak tree where a thin crack in the main face leads to a small, right-slanting ramp. Climb crack and ramp to flakes and edges on a wet face 20' below a large roof. Climb right-rising tight seam with no pro to the right edge of the roof system (where Birthday Corner also meets this roof). Work around the corner, then traverse right to join Amphitheatre Crack for the final moves to the anchors above Broken Broom. 80'

Birthday Corner   5.10a   G   140'   

Start: 10' left of Amphitheater Crack, at stepped ledges below a right-facing corner.

P1 5.10a 75': Go up to the right-facing corner. Climb to top of corner and step right to a hold on the otherwise blank face, then work up and slightly left to a large roof and overhanging right-facing corner. Climb the corner to an overhang. Move left along the overhang and onto a high face. Belay at a large ledge. 75'

P2 5.7 65': Go up a bulging face to easier terrain and belay at an oak tree.

Descent: Make two rappels with a single rope. Start at a spruce tree with a fixed anchor that is 20' right of the oak tree belay and rappel to the fixed anchors on top of Amphitheater Crack. Make a second rappel to the base of the cliff.

Amphitheater Crack   5.9   G   70'   

Super secure climbing with protection possible every inch of the way. Layback or jam? Hmmmm.

Start: 45' right of a block-filled chimney at the bottom of the leftmost, tall, right-facing wall, below a fingercrack that starts 10' up in a short right-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Go to the base of the crack and follow it as becomes a left-facing corner. Make a crux move into a scoop, then follow the crack as it angles right and narrows to fingertips. Go past a horizontal crack, move left onto a slab, go past another horizontal, then pick up another right-rising crack and climb this to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70'

Broken Broom (Wasp War)   5.10a   G   75'   

Excellent crack down low, and well-protected face moves higher up.

Start: 10' right of Amphitheater Crack at a shallow, left-leaning, right-facing corner with a discontinuous fingercrack.

P1 5.10 G: Go up the fingercrack, then right on good knobs and plates to another left-leaning, right-facing corner. Go up the corner then work up to a left-rising ledge. Move left along the ledge, then face climb up to a horizontal crack. Continue up the face past a second horizontal crack to join Amphitheater Crack just before the ledge with a fixed anchor. 75'

Pinch an Inch   5.10a   PG (5.6R)   70'   

Start: 4' left of the middle of three tall, right-facing corners, at parallel, pocketed grooves that lean to the left.

P1 5.10a PG: (V1, V2) Start up the rightmost groove and go to the right end of a left-rising ledge (crux). Follow a right-rising crack toward an arête on the right side of the wall. Go up a low-angled face with knobs (5.6R) to a horizontal crack. Continue up the face and follow a right-facing scoop to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Amphitheater Crack. 70'

V1 Dexter's Dugout 5.8 PG: Begin 5' right and on a dirt ledge, below a fistcrack in a tall, right-facing corner. Go up the widening crack to a ledge with a perched block. Reach out left to a horizontal fingercrack and follow it to the arête.

V2 Impulse Drive 5.8- G: Begin 15' right at a 10'-tall right-facing corner. Go up the corner that becomes a left-rising ledge. Follow the ledge to the tall, right-facing corner and climb a short, wide-chimney to a prominent ledge on the arête.

Gear: To 3".

[Tribulations, route #34, page 485]

Four Ounces to Freedom   5.12d   G   95'   

Start: Above the start of Tribulations, at a broad ledge below a sheer wall with an overhanging arête on its left edge.

P1 5.12d G: Start up the wall (5.11a PG) and go to a 2' detached flake that is right of the arête. Follow the sharp, steep arête to it's intersection with tiered roofs on the left. Move right and go up a sheer wall until the angle eases and it is possible to move left to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner (5.10 PG) to a fixed anchor. 95'

Gear: Draws plus a #2 Camalot.

Gun Show   5.10a   G   95'   

A short, strenuous, excellent fingercrack and the shortest route to the top of the cliff. This route stays sunny longer than the other routes on the wall.

Start: The right end of the Amphitheater at a left-facing, rectangular wall above a vegetated ledge.

P1 5.10a G: Climb the vertical crack past a pod (V1) to a ledge and exit right to a broad ledge with a fixed anchor. (You can walk off left from here.) 35'

P2 5.8 G: Step off of a low block and reach left to a handcrack that begins 6' up a short buttress. Follow the crack, then climb easily to the top of the buttress and belay at trees. 60'

V1 Side Show 5.10b G : Make a long reach right to a horizontal crack. Follow this across the top of the wall and finish on a blunt arête.


Crane Mountain: Southeastern Area: Black Arches Wall:Main Face

Torcher   5.10b   G   105'   

Sustained and excellent; one of the better pure-trad routes at the Black Arches Wall. The move over the roof is wild, and getting established above is quite a puzzle.

Start: Same as Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It.

P1 5.10b G: Up the 8"-wide offwidth to a stepped overhang. (You'll need a 5" cam to protect the start. Or, better yet, scramble easily up and right to protect in a horizontal crack, then step back left and climb the offwidth with protection from above.) Go left along the overhang to a left-leaning fingercrack, then up this to a vertical seam. Climb the bulging seam (first crux) to a horizontal crack. Reach to a zigzag crack and follow it rightward to its end. Traverse left 6' and climb up to the long ceiling at an A-frame with a fingercrack that shoots left from its lip. Make a strenuous move over the ceiling (second crux), then make a puzzling step up to a jug. Face climb straight up to a spacious ledge with a fixed anchor. 105'

Descent: Walk left across the ledge and scramble down a chimney to the base of the Amphitheater.

[Eatin' Tripe and Lichen' It, route #35, page 485]

Hang Time   5.11b   G   120'   

Consistently difficult face climbing with several good rests. The route almost touches Black Arches Arête, and can be toproped (with a 70m rope) from that anchor.

Start: 20' left of the Patio Ledge approach chimney, below a block-filled open book.

P1 5.11b G: Up the open book to a good horizontal on the right wall. Hand traverse right, then up to a fragile hourglass flake. Move up and right to a short right-facing corner, then straight up the orange face with plates and knobs. Move left to an overhang, then straight up a final bulge to a fixed anchor (shared with Black Arches Arête). 120'

Gear: 7 bolts plus nuts and cams to 2", doubles of #0.4 and #0.5.

Black Arch Arête   5.10b   PG   120'   

Impeccable rock, equal parts of dihedral, arête, and face with a committing crux near the top; one of the best single pitch routes in the Adirondacks. The crimpy crux is scary with the risk of a big (but safe) fall; a real mental testpiece.

Start: The left end of the Patio Ledge at the top of the chockstone-filled approach chimney, at a low roof with stacked blocks under it.

P1 5.10b PG: Go up the blocks to the base of a 60' splitter handcrack in a clean dihedral. Climb this until the crack pinches down to finger-size. Reach out right to the sharp arête and pull around to a stance. Move up the right side of the arête past good stances, then directly up the arête to a horizontal crack under an overlap and bulging wall to the left. Step above the overlap and work left across the wall (crux) to a right-rising crack that is followed to a fixed anchor. 120'

Gear: 2 ea 1.5"–3.5"

Descent: Rappel 35m.

Sleepy Hollow   5.8   G   100'   

Many hidden holds and tons of fun.

Start: 15' right and slightly uphill from Black Arch Arête at a right-facing corner with crack system that widens to a chimney at the top of the cliff. This is 15' left of Parallel Passage.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the right-facing corner through a small overhang on nice flakes until the crack widens to a tight chimney. Pull up to a ledge with a handcrack in a 20' left-facing corner. Layback the crack and pull into another right-facing corner. Work up the corner to an overhang with a large chimney on its left side. (V1) Undercling and move up and right to a jug. Climb though an overhanging face just right of the chimney on jugs to a fixed anchor. 100'

V1 5.9 G: Climb directly up the chimney to the anchors.

Gear : A full rack with doubles to 3". Wide gear is not necessary.

Cranium   5.10b   PG   95'   

Climbs the thin, left-leaning cracks on the overhanging face above the Patio Ledge. Small nuts protect the committing crux.

Start: The right end of the Patio Ledge, 60' right of the top of the chockstone-filled approach chimney, at an oak tree below the striking fingercrack of Plumb Line.

P1 5.10b PG: Start up a left-rising flake past a 2'-tall, detached flake below the slot of Parallel Passage. Work up a left-leaning crack–flake, then move right to a vertical crack. Go up the vertical crack and make a long reach to a horizontal crack that has a thin crack rising left from it. Follow the thin crack until it fades into a seam and make another long reach (crux) to a crack in the overlap above. Pull the overlap, go leftward, step up and climb the right side of a small pillar and finish on Parallel Passage: work up cracks and climb a steep face to fixed anchors. 95'

Parallel Passage   5.10a   G   100'   

Sustained difficulties with strenuous laybacks. Some parties lower off of the Plumb Line anchor to avoid the serious rope-drag; despite this, the standard finish is recommended.

Start: Same as Cranium and Plumb Line, at the right end of the Patio Ledge.

P1 5.10a G: Go up to a 2'-tall flake that is below a slot with vertical walls. Follow the slot (crux) as it widens into a chimney and the angle eases. Follow a tight handcrack to a pointed overhang, then step out left and go up a left-rising ramp for 20'. Work up cracks and climb a steep face to fixed anchors shared with Cranium. 100'

Gear: To 3", doubles to 1.5".

Plumb Line   5.11a   G   80'   

A striking fingercrack on an overhanging buttress. Oddly, the crack is the easiest part and the route has both a face-climbing crux and an overhang crux. When rappelling, take precautions to keep the rope out of the crack.

Start: Same as Cranium and Parallel Passage, at the right end of the Patio Ledge.

P1 5.11a G: (V1) Climb up Parallel Passage 12' to a stance on top of a 2'-tall flake. Traverse right on jugs to the fingercrack. Follow the crack to its end and make a few face moves to a horizontal crack under the overhang. Pull the overhang and pick up the emerging crack that is climbed to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 80'

V1 Plumb Line Direct 5.11c G : Go directly up the tips cracks to join the normal route. Good protection can be obtained (micro cams and RPs).

Gear: To 3", doubles to 0.75".

Renegade   5.8-   PG   165'

This line is a challenging mixed route in winter. Cleaned up, it would be a decent rock route, but it is currently filthy.

Start: At the bottom of the wet gully left of the start of Critical Crimps.

P1 5.1 G: Climb up dirty corner system to Patio Ledge. 45'

P2 5.8- PG: Continue up corner system, through chimney, to the top of the cliff. 120'

Critical Crimps   5.10a   G   145'   

One of the first routes to tap the face-climbing potential on Crane Mountain.

Start: At the low point on the cliff, below a slab with a bulging wall that starts 12' up.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) Go up the slab and climb the right side of the bulging wall (1st crux), then move left and work up a blunt, low-angle arête. Begin up a steepening orange face, go past a thin horizontal crack, and decipher a crux sequence of crimps that ends at a wide horizontal crack under a ceiling. Haul out the ceiling and up a short, left-facing corner to a belay at a fixed anchor on the Attic Ledge. 110'

P2 5.8 G: Step left and move around the left side of twin roofs to the top of the cliff. 35'

V1 Jay's Affliction 5.10a TR: follows a vertical dike on the left side of the slab then up the left side of the bulging wall to the blunt, low-angled arête.

Gear: Cams to 2"

Descent: Rappel from the Attic Ledge is possible with a 60m rope.

Second Job   5.8   G   145'   

A low crux leads to an enjoyable handcrack.

Start: 30' uphill and right of Critical Crimps, below a left-leaning ramp.

P1 5.8 G: Go up the ramp to the base of a left-facing corner. Work up the corner and around the right end of a ceiling (crux) to a stance below a right-rising handcrack. Follow the crack that turns vertical, and enters a deep, left-facing crner under twin roofs. Move up and left to the Attic Ledge and belay from fixed anchors. 100'

P2 5.8 G: Traverse right to the offwidth crack that splits the twin roofs and ascend the crack to the top of the cliff. 45'

V1 5.9+ TR: The flake to the right of the crux left-facing corner has been top roped.

Crossway   5.6   G   145'   

Exciting traverse on P2. Can be used to access the fixed anchors on Critical Crimps and Plumb Line.

Start: Immediately uphill and right of Second Job, below opposing corners.

P1 5.6 G: Up the corner on the right, then follow steps up and left to join Second Job at the vertical handcrack that is followed to the fixed anchor on the Attic Ledge. 110'

P2 5.6 G: From the left end of the Attic Ledge, hand traverse left along a horizontal crack to a chimney (V1) that is followed up to the top. 35'

V1 5.6 G: Continue left, pass under a hollow (spooky) overhang, and go left to lower-angled rock. Belay at the fixed anchor on top of Plumb Line.

Tilly's Trench   5.3   G   30'

From the top of this route, it is possible to climb vegetated, wet 5.3 to reach the Attic anchors.

Start: 20' right of Crossway, at a wide handcrack on the left side of a 30'-tall buttress.

P1 5.3 G: Climb the crack to the top of the buttress and a belay at an oak tree. 30'

Suicidal Sidney   5.9-   G   30'

Start: 60' right of Crossway, on the left side of the rightmost buttress, below a vertical offwidth crack.

P1 5.9- G: Climb offwidth crack to a ledge on top of the buttress. 30'

Reducto Adductor   5.10c   G   40'   

Steep and sustained. Named for what it did to the leader on his first attempt. The successful assault had to wait for full healing.

Start: At a thin vertical crack 15' below a left-rising, flaring crack, 15' below and right of Suicidal Sidney's offwidth.

P1 5.10c G: Climb vertical crack, overhanging at first (crux) to left-slanting crack, then follow this (V1) to the notch at the top. 40'

V1 5.10a TR: After making the initial difficult moves up the left-slanting crack, climb directly up the face to the top.


Pitchoff Ridge Trail Domes: Upper Dome

Don't Kill The Client   5.7   G   150'

[Right of route #2, page 289]

The first ascent attempted the right-leaning roof crack, but, due to a dangerous block above the belay, opted for the easier exit. Named for the #1 rule in guiding.

Start: The top of the cliff on its right side is dominated by large roofs broken by a lone right-leaning crack. Begin at a slab with a lone birch 20' up, and just right of a right-leaning, tree-filled gully that leads the right-leaning roof crack. This is 200' uphill and right of N.O.C. Route.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the slab past the birch tree, staying right of the tree-filled depression, to a ledge below the large roofs. 90'

P2 5.7 G: Traverse 25' right to the right end of the ledge and climb a crack in a left-facing corner to a ledge with a tree. Step right and scramble to the trees. 60'


Chapel Pond Gully Cliff

Shiling Was Willing   5.7   PG (5.4 R)   390'

[Between routes #27 and 28, page 193]

Start: Same as Silent Spring.

P1 5.5 G: Same as Silent Spring: Climb the flakes and cracks on the arête past the right end of the wavelike bulges. After the second bulge, angle right on a low-angle slab to the top. Belay from trees below a crack in a left-facing corner in the slab above. 50'

P2 5.4 PG: Follow the corner of Beam Me Up to it's top then trend right to a belay at the left end of a cedar island. (This is the left end of the same cedar island in which Squirrelless Journey begins.) 120'

P3 5.6 PG: Make a right-rising traverse on good face holds (5.4 R) to a left-facing left-leaning corner. Move up through lichens and follow the left-facing corner and flakes to a belay at a cedar. 140'

P4 5.7 PG: Climb straight up on good rock for about 20', then up a broken crack (#2 Friend) to a small ledge. Move right and up on more loose rock to belay at cedars above (same topout as for Squirrelless Journey). 80'


Fly Brook Valley

The Fly Brook Valley is a large hidden valley north of NY 9N and west of Lake George, in the same neighborhood as Tongue Mountain and Barton High Cliff. The cliffs are just beginning to be explored with only a few rock routes and some ice routes; the vast amount of rock remains mostly unexplored and undeveloped. There are several cliffs along the northwest flanks of Catamount Mountain—Catamount Main Face 18T 615244 4837544, The Grotto 18T 615176 4838516, and Catamount North 18T 615940 4838960. Other cliffs include Fly Brook Crag 18T 615152 4839244, Middle Mountain West Face 18T 615952 4839656, and Wardsboro Cliff 18T 614588 4839988. The rock quality varies from bullet-hard to fractured and loose.

The area is heavily used by hunters during all hunting seasons. Despite this, the valley has a wilderness feel: the approach is long; there are thick fields of stinging nettles that guard the approach to Catamount Mountain and along the base of North Wardsboro Cliff; Coyotes have been heard while climbing, and, while no snakes have been reported, there are known rattlesnake dens within a few miles of the cliffs.

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 24, drive 5.0 miles east on the Bolton Landing–Riverbank Road to its end, where it makes a T with NY 9N. Turn left onto NY 9N and drive north 6.0 miles to Padanarum Road (0.0 miles). Turn left onto Padanarum Road, then right at 1.8 miles onto Wardsboro Road / Fly Brook Road. Park at a turnout on the right at 3.4 miles, just before the Wardsboro Cemetery and across from a red cabin 18T 613100 4837732.


Fly Brook Valley: Wardsboro Cliff

Location: Between Brant Lake and Lake George, accessed from Northway Exit 24 and NY 9N

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 120'

Quality:

Approach: 45 min, difficult

Summary: Wilderness cliff with several crack routes and good potential for more

Description: Wardsboro Cliff has seen the most attention in the Fly Brook Valley. The southeast-facing cliff is divided into two sections, the South Crag and the North Crag, separated by a broad, steep gully. A good landmark for orientation is the Kenneth Palmer Lookout, identified by a memorial plaque bearing this name mounted on the side of a rock at the lookout, located at right end of South Crag, and on top of the route Padanarum Crack. From this lookout you can see across the valley to Middle Mountain, Fly Brook Crag, and the various cliffs on Catamount Mountain.

Descent: Scramble down the broad gully that separates the North and South Crags (just north of Palmer Lookout), or rappel with two ropes from large pine trees near the lookout.

Directions: From the Fly Brook Valley parking, hike north along the road. At 0.6 mile there is a green house on the left and the road becomes a 4WD track. At 1.3 miles there is a hunting cabin on the right; 90 yards beyond is a cairn and yellow blazes on trees marking a state land boundary. Continue on the track another 100 yards past the state boundary, then turn right on a bearing of 100°, following the contour of the terrain. Cross a drainage area and continue contouring to the cliff, the South Crag, which will be on your left 18T 614588 4839988. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the cliff once you leave the 4WD track.

At the right end of South Crag is the steep gully used for descent and to reach Palmer Lookout. To reach the North Crag, make your way to the flat ground below the talus of the South Crag, then walk north until you can see the cliff on the left. The left end of the North Crag is identified by a large buttress with a huge roof 20' up, the location of Bowling for Simon.

Padanarum Crack   5.9+   G   120'   

Start: Walk right along the base of South Crag to a narrow ramp that drops you at the right end of the cliff near the base of this route. Begin at a steep 20'-tall dirty wall.

P1 5.9+ G: Up 10' to a small ramp. Work right on the ramp, then back left to ledges. Up the ledges, then step right to a protruding block. Face climb past two bolts (crux) to a right-facing corner. Climb a crack in the corner for 40' to where it forks (V1), then follow the wide left fork to a juggy, Gunks-like finish. 120'

V1 5.10 A0: Follow the direct fingercrack to the top.

Bowling for Simon   5.7   PG   50'

Moderate climbing on loose rock.

Start: Near the left end of North Crag is a large buttress with a roof 20' up. Begin at a left-facing corner on the left side of the roof, behind a detached block.

P1 5.7 PG: Up the inside corner, then up the blocky face on the right to a large tree on a forested ledge. 50'

P8tience   5.8   G (5.2 R)   90'   

Unique iron-rich rock with solution pockets.

Start: Near the center of North Crag is a large orange overhanging section of rock. At the right end of the overhanging section are two 80° faces. Begin on the left of the two faces below a large figure-8 worn into the rock by natural weathering 25' up.

P1 5.8 G (5.2 R): Up the easy and fun face with the figure-8 to an overhang. Climb straight through the roof via a crack on the right edge of a large block, up 15' to a ledge, then head left over loose but easy terrain to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 90'

Walking Fern Face   5.8   G   50'   

Good face climbing with several variations. Keep an eye out for the small fern with arrow-shaped leaves at 2/3 height (a walking fern), which is beautiful and rare.

Start: Right of P8tience is another 80° face bordered on the right by a corner and roof system that arches over the face. Begin below the center of this face.

P1 5.8 G: Up the face using interesting solution pockets to an overhang, over this, then up the face to a fixed anchor. 50'


Fly Brook Valley: Catamount Main Face

A long approach including a sea of stinging nettles brings one to Catamount Main Face. From the parking, head east into the Fly Brook Valley, then northeast staying on the high ground above the brook. Eventually you cross the brook 18T 614344 4838204, then head southeast and uphill to the cliff 18T 615244 4837544 reached at 1 hr 15 min. The only reported rock route is Nettle Crack, but there's a lot of potential here. Watch for poison ivy.

Nettle Crack   5.8 A0   G   70'

An incomplete route with no second pitch.

Start: At a right-facing corner 50 yards up and left of the cliff's main left-facing corner and roof system.

P1 5.8 A0 G: Up the right-facing corner to a beautiful right-arching fingercrack hidden from below. 70'


Lower Washbowl: Stone Face Rib

Made In The Shade   5.7   G   45'

A pleasant route; on a hot day, you'll be made in the shade.

Start: In the descent gully between the Spider's Web and Stone Face Rib, 150' up from the bottom of the Stone Face Rib on the west-facing wall.

P1 5.7 G: Climb left-trending handcrack to thin crack, then over a bulge to a tree covered ledge. 45'

Nothing We Bailed   5.8   TR   40'

This climbs the obvious fistcrack 20' right of Made In The Shade.


Lower Washbowl: Lost Arrow Face

 The route Bigger Than Jesus [Route #11, page 227] is listed as 5.12b, but is more like 5.11b.


Lower Washbowl: Concave Wall

Cinnamon Girl   5.11c   G (5.10 R)   230'   

P1 5.7 G: Climb the left-facing flake to the roof. Step left around the roof and up to a ledge with a cedar. 70'

P2 5.6 G: From the right side of the ledge, ascend a deep V-slot into a right-facing corner with a crack that leads to a ledge below the orange corner. 40'

P3 5.11a G (5.10 R): Go up the orange corner to its top (where the FA stopped), then move up and right around stepped roof to a corner. Up this (crazy runout) to next roof. Exit right to belay. 60'

P4 Big Brother 5.11c G: Angle up and left to a crack in the zebra-striped, overhanging wall. Follow the crack to a "bear-hug block"; pull left around this to the top. 60'

3:16   5.12a   G (5.7 R)   60'   

This route follows the crack through orange rock just right of P3 of Cinnamon Girl.

Start: At the ledge at the top of P2 of Cinnamon Girl.

P1 5.12a G (5.7 R): Go up the crack to its top, then reach way right to another crack. Up this to the P3 belay of Cinnamon Girl. 60'


Lower Washbowl: Eighth Wall

Hoar–Horovitz   5.10a   PG   75'   

Climbs the crack just left of the headwall top pitch of The Fang, and could make a logical extension to Land of the Lost. It's steep, sometimes puzzling, and has excellent exposure, positions, and scenery.

Start: At a tree ledge on top of P2 of The Fang or Land of the Lost, at a vertical crack broken at mid-height by a horizontal ledge, 15' left of P3 of The Fang. (Given the current conditions of these other routes, it's perhaps easier to rappel in from above. To do so, go up the decent trail on the left side of the Upper Washbowl until it turns sharp right, and just after a large boulder. Turn left and head slightly uphill to the height of land. Go right, then back left to reach the open summit ledges.)

P1 5.10a PG: Climb the thin crack system through some strenuous moves to the horizontal ledge (small gear; be mindful of falling onto the spiky dead cedar tree). Continue up the final corner to the open summit ledges on top of the Eighth Wall.

Pantless Phenom   5.7   G   220'

Start: At a large, block-filled, right-facing corner up and to the right of the lower terrace that holds the routes The Fang and Land of the Lost, and 10' left of PR.

P1 5.0 G: Scramble up the block-filled corner to the broad, dirt- and tree-covered ledge and a belay at a large aspen. 30'

P2 5.7 G: Walk left along the dirty ledge to an 8'-high vertical crack that ends at a small ledge. Move to the right end of the ledge at a small left-facing corner, then climb the corner and adjacent fingercrack until it is possible to step right onto another ledge system. Continue straight through this small ledge system to a large offwidth, which is climbed to its top at a broad, flat ledge. From here, climb either the crack just above (or the next crack to the right shared with PR) to a small, treed ledge with a fixed anchor on a cedar. 130'

P3 5.6 G: Head left to a right-facing corner–crack. Follow the crack until it fades just below a small evergreen tree. Head up and left to the summit ledges. 60'

Descent: Walk straight back from the cliff, then down and slightly right to reach the Upper Washbowl descent trail after about 1 minute. Alternatively, rappel with 2 ropes to reach the ground at the base of PR.

PR   5.9+   G   100'   

An excellent route featuring 100 feet of steep, sustained crack climbing with solid rock, exposed positions, and spectacular scenery. This route is mentioned on page 233 of Adirondack Rock: "A good cleaning here will undoubtedly yield stellar crack routes, especially the unclimbed line on the right side of the wall (which has some unexplained fixed gear)." The name is short for "Paying Respects", as it was climbed the day following Dennis Murphy's tragic accident.

Start: 10' right of the large, block-filled, right-facing corner used to access the aspen ledge, behind a small hemlock and a small cedar, at a long fingercrack.

P1 5.9+ G: Follow the fingercrack through some thin sections to a set of jugs and a good rest 30' up. Continue up the crack to a left-facing corner just left of an impressive tooth of rock. Climb the corner to a small ceiling at it's top, then step right to the parallel crack system. Up this crack for 15' to a horizontal break, then step back to the left-hand crack to an intimidating (but not overly difficult) offwidth. Go up the offwidth to a large ledge with a gigantic, gaping crack at its back, then climb the handcrack directly across the ledge past a perched boulder to a cedar tree with a fixed anchor. 100'


Spanky's Area: Nestle Wall

No Regrets Coyote   5.8-   G (5.4 R)   115'   

Named for a Joni Mitchell song, and the fact that the first ascent party found the remains of a Coyote near the base of the route.

Start: Walk past the boulder close to the cliff [the boulder described in the "Directions" to the Nestle Wall on page 156] and around the toe of the cliff towards the wet face (with the winter route Sheik of the Burning Sands) and look for a leaning boulder split vertically down the middle by a crack. Begin below this crack on top of a small slanting boulder below a ledge 6' up.

P1 5.8- G (5.4 R): (V1) Gain the mossy ledges below the crack. Up the crack (tight hands and fists) to the top of the leaning boulder. (V2) Stem up a large, offwidth, left-facing corner with good faceholds on the left wall (5.4 R, 4" cam helpful) to a large belay ledge. (Or scramble up 20' to a scenic belay with views of the King Wall.) 115'

V1 5.7 G: Begin 5' left of the normal start at a dirty left-facing corner with two trees growing down low. Up the corner to gain the splitter crack of the normal route.

V2 5.4 G: Better protected than the original finish. Traverse up and right to a fingercrack, then follow this using plentiful holds on the face to the right. Belay at a large birch on top of the face.

Descent: Rappel from a pine tree on the ledge with a single 60' rope.

Morsel Line   5.8   PG   75'   

Start: Near the right end of the wall, at a small nose in front of a slanting boulder, below a short ramp 3' left of Nescafé.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb to the ramp, then up flakes and cracks running up a steep wall (crux) on the left that follow a short, left-facing corner. At its top, (V1) step left to a rounded, left-facing corner and up it to the outside of a prow. 75'

V1 5.7 G: Traverse 4' right to a thin vertical crack, follow it to its end, then step left back onto the main line.

Nescafé   5.5   PG (5.3 R)   230'   

Start: At the base of the boulder close to the cliff [the boulder described in the "Directions" to the Nestle Wall on page 156].

P1 5.5 PG (5.3 R): Up an obvious crack onto a right-rising ramp. Go up into a shallow V-corner and into a flaring crack, then step up and right to a small ledge to find some pro before a run out slab. Step back left and up past a sill and a couple of nice pockets. 100'

P2 5.5 G: Climb a handcrack up and then step left onto the steep slab with a dirty crack in a corner; climb this to its top (beware of the loose block), then wander up over a series of smaller walls and ledges to the top. 130'

Chock Full O' Nuts   5.6   PG   230'   

Start: 30' right of Nescafé at the right side of the cliff in a dirty corner.

P1 5.6 PG: (V1) Climb up the dirty corner, step left onto the slab, and climb this to a small ledge. Make a few slab moves (crux) to reach a crack in a left-facing corner, and follow this to its top. 100'

P2 5.5 G: Up a crack in a small headwall, then wander up over the series of shorter walls and ledges to the top of the cliff. 130'

V1 5.9 TR: Begin 8' left of the normal start and climb a face to a right-rising rail, then move up and left around a small overhang via a rounded, small, left-facing corner to join the standard route.


Spanky's Area: Sunshine City

 The route Diamonds are Forever [Route #26, page 160] is considered difficult for the grade. If you restrict yourself to the line of bolts, it's mid 5.11. If you climb to the right of the bolts (and use holds from the neighboring route Bee Hold), it's 5.10c.

Freak Gasoline Fight Accident   5.9   G   80'   

A nice addition to the sport climbs on this wall.

Start: Same as WMP [Route #29, page 160].

P1 5.9 G: Climb WMP for 25' to the ledge. From here, WMP goes up and left; instead, go straight up a short wall, then slab to the fixed anchor (shared with Raw Tips). 80'


Lost T Cliff

Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: West

Height: 80'

Quality: ****

Description: Tucked in the forest above Chub Lake near the summit of Chub Lake Mountain is yet another gem. This 300'-wide wall stands between 40' and 80', is tilted at a comfortable 80º, and is laced with cracks. The rock is especially coarse and textured with excellent friction properties; hence, there is a good mixture of face climbs and crack routes, many of which are equipped with lower-off anchors. The base of the cliff rises gently uphill to the left and is pleasant, open and airy.

The cliff is located across the road from Good Luck and has easy access—the straight line distance from the road is less than 2000'. With the short approach, the cliff is sure to be popular. To reach the top, walk around the left end of the cliff.

The cliff was developed in a style similar to Shanty Cliff, meaning a mix of trad and fixed gear, well-cleaned routes, and good access for groups. Be aware that the first bolts are often high and have been designed to be clipped with a stick.

Approach: 20 min, easy

Directions: Park as for Lost Hunter's Cliff 18T 538082 4789285 [page 556] and follow the path to Chub Lake 18T 538184 4789652. About 100' before you get to Chub Lake, turn right and follow a path (pink flagging) on the right that curves around the lake to the north and begins to climb. 100' after crossing a small brook, the path splits (going straight leads to Lost Hunter's Cliff, red flagging); turn right steeply uphill and follow a path (more pink flagging) through open forest to the crest of a ridge. The Annex sits below the trail here. From here the trail levels and wanders another few minutes to the cliff 18T 538748 4789866.

Teriyaki Hairpiece   5.10b   G   40'

Start: 60' left of Keegans 5.8, and 40' left of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fix on rock protruding 1' from the cliff) below a crack that leans right and flares in the middle and runs the full height of a sheer face.

P1 5.10b G: Go up easy, mossy holds to gain the crack. Follow the crack past a flared section (easier on the face to the right) to a horizontal. A couple layback moved gain the jugs at the top. 50'

Gear: Small nuts and cams to yellow Alien. Green Alien critical at the crux.

Keegans 5.8   5.8+   G   40'   

The name is not a misprint, but yes, it also happens to be 5.8.

Start: At the left and uphill end of the wall, 20' right of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fin of rock protruding 1' from the cliff) and 10' left of a large pine tree growing on top of a sunken boulder.

P1 5.8+ G: Up the face (3 bolts) to a good horizontal crack, then up more face to a pine tree. 40'

Expiration 66   5.9+   G   40'   

Trickier than it looks as good stances are scarce. A few small cams are helpful.

Start: 15' right of Keegans 5.8 and 5' right of a large pine tree growing on top of a sunken boulder, below a seam and crack that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.9+ G: A small cam protects the moves to the first bolt. Up the seam (bolt) past a hand slot. Continue up the seam (bolt) and crack to the top. 40'

CB Love Grannys   5.12a   PG   45'

An exercise in smearing on a steep face. Requires small gear.

Start: 15' right of Expiration 66 and 12' left of the shallow left-facing left-arching corner that marks the start of Ten B, at a face with a left-slanting seam that begins 8' up.

P1 5.12a PG: Up the face on good holds to gain the left-leaning seam. Up the seam (bolt) to its top, then switch left to another left-leaning seam; follow this past a bolt to the top. 45'

Ten B   5.11a   G   45'   

Clean rock with good moves and a short crux. The name does not align with the rating.

Start: 50' downhill and right of a full-height chimney (the bottom half of which is stuffed with a fin of rock protruding 1' from the cliff) at a shallow left-facing left-arching corner.

P1 5.11a G: Move up and right on staircase holds to gain the left-facing corner. Up the corner as it arches left into an overlap. Traverse left in a horizontal crack below the overlap to its left end, then up to parallel seams in the face. Up the seams past a horizontal crack (crux), then up the short face to the top. 45'

Freckles and No Lipstick   5.9   G   50'   

An excellent crack climb.

Start: 5' downhill and right of the shallow left-facing left-arching corner of Ten B and 45' left of the large left-facing corner of The Keyhole, below a face with seams and a bolt 12' up.

P1 5.9 G: A small nut protects the opening moves to an excellent crack (unnecessary bolt). Up the face with seams to a crack and flared pod, then up more crack past a second bolt to a fixed anchor at the top. 50'

Spelunking Midget   5.10b   G   45'   

Start: In a shallow groove.

P1 5.10b G: Up the groove, then big holds to the first bolt. After the second bolt, there are numerous stances with great gear (small cams). 45'

The Keyhole   5.11a   PG   55'   

Start: Centered on the cliff (and just left of the highest section of cliff) is a stepped, 3'-deep, 40'-tall, left-facing corner. Begin 10' left of the corner at a brown mossy face below a bolt.

P1 5.11a PG: (V1) Up the face to a horizontal crack (bolt, scary clip), then straight up a thin crack (bolts) to an overhang below a right-facing corner. Step left and go over the overhang, then up and left in a good crack past horizontals to a fixed anchor on the left. 55'

V1 5.9 G: Begin 10' right in the left-facing corner. Step left onto the face climb a mossy, shallow, right-facing, left-leaning ramp to gain the thin crack. This reduces the overall grade to 5.10c G.

Courtney Marie's Boobies   5.10a   PG   60'   

Start: In the left-facing corner 10' right of The Keyhole (and same as The Keyhole V1).

P1 5.10a PG: Go up the left-racing corner past a ledge to its top. Step left onto the face and climb a thin crack system to where it disappears, make a move left to a jug, then a bigger move right to finish up a fingercrack. 60'

Crimps are for Pimps   5.11a   PG   80'   

Start: At a right-facing corner 15' left of Little Kisses.

P1 5.11a PG: Up a handcrack in the corner to a tree on a ledge 20' up. Go up a blocky section to reach a handcrack on the right. Protect here, move left on small edges for 15' to reach a seam. Up seam for 25' past two horizontals (sustained crux) to a big jug. Continue up easy handcrack to a fixed anchor on a tree. 80'

Gear: Some small cams (#000, #00) are necessary to protect the crux.

Little Kisses   5.9   G   80'   

This is the first of three parallel climbs on the tallest section of the cliff. This crack is a contender for the best 5.9 in the southern section of the park. The crack is fingers and tight hands with many hidden horizontals for rests.

Start: At the tallest section of cliff, 30' downhill and right of the stepped left-facing corner that marks the start of The Keyhole, and 8' right of a 12'-high right-facing corner, below a seam in chocolate-colored rock.

P1 5.9 G: Up the seam to a high bolt (or stick-clip), then up the beautiful crack to its top. Move left and finish in a short handcrack to a fixed anchor on the right (shared with Parthenope). 80'

Gear: To 2", with doubles in the finger size range.

Parthenope   5.11d   PG   80'   

Start: 4' right of Little Kisses, exactly between Little Kisses and Five Star Crack, at the left end of a blocky ledge 2' up.

P1 5.11d PG: Up the face to the first bolt (5.9, stick-clip). Continue up a thin seam in the face (small gear) to a bolt, then up the face (crux) to a good horizontal. A thin crack on the right (very close to Five Star Crack) protects more face climbing to another horizontal, then hard moves past a final horizontal (5.11b) leads to a fixed anchor shared with Little Kisses. 80'

Gear: Small cams, nuts, draws.

Five Star Crack   5.8   G   70'   

Sustained at the grade with good moves and excellent protection.

Start: The right-hand crack at the tallest section of cliff, 3' left of a large, broken birch tree 4' up.

P1 5.8 G: Go up to a small overlap to gain the left-leaning crack. Up the crack past many horizontals to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: To 2".

Dixie Normus   5.9   G   70'   

Start: Same as Wide Crack.

P1 5.9 G: Go up Wide Crack for 10', then traverse left 5' (almost to Five Star Crack) and climb a series of thin cracks straight up to the top. 70'

Wide Crack   5.7   G   60'   

Somewhat marred by a chossy finish.

Start: 12' right of Five Star Crack below a chossy overhang 5' up, above which is a crack that runs to the top of the cliff.

P1 5.7 G: Layback through the initial overhang to gain the crack which is climbed to the top. 60'

Limp Stick   5.9   PG   60'

Climbs the face via a thin, flared seam between Wide Crack and The Dike.

Start: Same as Wide Crack.

P1 5.9 PG: Go up Wide Crack to a horizontal crack on the right. Traverse right 5' to a thin crack, then climb straight up the face to an overlap. Over this via a crack on the left, then up to the trees. 60'

The Dike   5.8   G   55'   

This is the crack and dike 20' right of Wide Crack.

Start: Same as Wide Crack.

P1 5.8 G: Go up Wide Crack to a horizontal crack on the right. Foot traverse right 20' to the dike, then follow it to its top. Go past a tree, then up a deep, flared crack to a fixed anchor at the top. 55'

Mean Sister   5.10b   G   55'   

A harder version of Little Kisses, and one of the best fingercracks here.

Start: Halfway between The Dike and Coach and Mary below roof at head height.

P1 5.10b G: (V1) Move over the root to a triangular incut hold, then up a crack that leans left to its top. Move right and continue up another crack to a fixed anchor at the top. 55'

V1 5.8 G: Go up Coach and Mary to just past the first horizontal. Move left across the face to reach the thin crack of the normal route.

Coach and Mary   5.7   G   55'   

Presently a bit dirty with a few hanging roots, but better than it looks.

Start: On the right end of the cliff, 40' right of Wide Crack, 20' right of The Dike, and 10' left of the right end of the main face (where the terrain rises to the start of Emilie Doesn't Have a Clue) .

P1 5.7 G: Go up the wide crack to the top.

Emily Doesn't Have a Clue   5.8   G   45'   

Start: Near the right end of the wall is a boulder pile above which is a right-facing corner capped by a roof. Begin at a large birch tree at the top of a left-rising ramp below the right-facing corner.

P1 5.8 G: Up the wide crack in the right-facing corner past the left edge of the roof to a fixed anchor shared with Flavor of the Day. 45'

Flavor of the Day   5.12b   G   45'   

Start: Same start as Emily Doesn't Have a Clue.

P1 5.12b G: Stick-clip the first bolt, move right to a jug below the roof, then go directly over the roof (a toe-heel cam works well) onto a horizontal rail the face. Bump up to the arête, then follow this to a fixed anchor shared with Emily Doesn't Have a Clue.

Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap   5.9   G   45'   

A nice finish crack, but mediocre climbing below.

Start: On the right side of the boulder pile above which is the ramp that leads to Flavor of the Day, and 40' right of that route, at blocky chaotic terrain with a cleaned strip through moss below a ledge 10' up.

P1 5.9 G: Move up to the ledge, then up a crack to another ledge. Move left past a small tree and gain a seam and crack that snakes up a clean face. At the top of the crack, go up to a horizontal crack, then up the short face (crux) to the top. 45'

Waiting for the Sun   5.5   G   60'

Start: 30' right of Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap at a mossy, blocky, vague depression below a 2' x 3' projecting block at the top of the cliff.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the blocky depression, then over the projecting block to the top. 60'

Gear: To 2".


The Annex

Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: West

Height: 50'

Quality: *

Description: A smaller version of Lost T Cliff (and probably an extension of that cliff), this 150'-wide wall has several crack and face routes.

On the left end of the cliff is a large left-facing corner capped by a roof that marks the start of a couple routes. The center of the cliff has a jagged right-arching flake and has been cleaned and toproped, but no routes yet exist here.

Like its parent, Lost T, the routes here are designed to be stick-clipped.

Directions: The approach to Lost T Cliff traverses within 20' of the top of another cliff (you can see the opening in the forest on your left when the trail reaches the ridge). Walk [skiers] left along the top of the cliff to a short down scramble to reach the base of the cliff, then turn right and follow a trail to the base of the cliff.

Chocolate Left   5.8   G   45'

Start: At the far left end of the cliff, 10' uphill and left of the large overhang.

P1 5.8 G: Make a long reach to stick-clip the first bolt. Work right across the face to the left-facing corner on the left side of the buttress. Up the corner almost to its top, then slide right around the arête onto the face to a fixed anchor. 45'

Chocolate Right   5.9   G   40'

A 5.8 route with a boulder-move start.

Start: At a shallow trough directly below the large roof at the left end of the cliff and 6' left of the left-facing corner.

P1 5.9 G: Make a boulder move up the trough (crux), then up to the left end of the large roof. Step right around the arête and climb the face and shallow left-facing corner to a fixed anchor shared with Chocolate Left. 40'

Mr. T   5.10c   G   50'   

Start: 12' right of the large left-facing corner at the left end of the cliff, below flakes with a thin seam just above. A gnarled birch tree provides a seat at the base.

P1 5.10c G: Scramble up the flakes, then up a thin seam. Face climb up past several short vertical cracks and excellent horizontals (crux) to a final long reach move to a pocket. Mantel into the moss above. 50'

I Pity The Fool   5.7   G   50'   

Start: 6' right of Mr. T below a crack that runs the full height of the cliff.

P1 5.7 G: Up and right on a large blocky flake to gain a crack just left of a shallow left-facing corner. Follow the crack system to the top. 50'

Shirtless In November   5.10d   PG   50'

Start: 18' right of I Pity The Fool below the left end of a blocky right facing, right-arching corner 15' up.

P1 5.10d PG: Climb the face up to the corner, then up the corner to its top where it becomes an overlapping flake. Make face moves up and left to a good horizontal, then more face moves to a finishing handcrack (crux), the left of two parallel handcracks. 50'

Gear: To 2".

Criss Cross   5.10c   G   45'   

Start: On the right end of the cliff below a shallow vertical trough with seams, just right of a square box-shaped hole 8' up, and 20' left of a giant oak growing 2' from the cliff face.

P1 5.10c G: Up the groove using incut flakes and seams and intermittent cracks to a fixed anchor. 45'


Lost Hunter's Cliff

 The trail to the cliff has been improved and is easier to follow now.

From the east end of the parking pullout 18T 538004 4789286, locate an obvious trail in the trees (0.0 min) and follow this northeast. At 3 min reach a T intersection (going right goes to NY 10, the old approach); go left (downhill) for 50' towards Chub Lake. About 100' before the lake, turn right onto a small path and follow this as it contours around the east side of Chub Lake. The path crosses a small stream, then makes a short climb to a Y intersection at 9 min. The right branch goes to Lost T; you go left.

Follow the path as it meanders north, making several brief bends to the east. At 21 min cross two large streams that drain a beaver pond on the right 18T 538557 4790326. Just after the second stream is another intersection. The left fork leads to McMartin Cliff; you go right. The path follows along the shore of the beaver pond for 5 minutes or so, then breaks away to the north following a stream up the side of Sherman Mountain. When the path levels out, you'll come to a distinctive 40'-wide, 30'-high clean face with two prominent horizontals. This is key to locating the crag, as the main face sits hidden just above. Follow along the left side of this cliff and into a steep gully. At the top of the gully, the main face is visible directly in front of you 18T 539096 4790967, reached at 52 min.

 There are fixed anchors at the top of Mountain Bruin [Route #1, page 557], Sitting Duck [Route #3, page 557], Father Knows Best [Route #7, page 558], Lost Hunter Crack [Route #9, page 558], and Buck Fever [Route #10, page 558].

 The route Buck Fever is now a lead route. It is reported as sustained, and one of the best sport routes of its grade in the park. No single move is as hard as Elusive Trophy, but it is more sustained.

Corkscrew   5.11c   G   50'   

[Left of route #1, page 557]

Start: Follow the path another 100 yards left past Mountain Bruin to another buttress of orange rock with arêtes, overhanging faces, and roofs. Begin on the left side of the buttress at an arête.

P1 5.11c G: Climb up and right onto a beautiful yellow face with a shallow, left-facing corner. Up the corner to its top, then over two overlaps to a fixed anchor. 50'

Hot Compress   5.12a   G   50'   

A large roof with a steep, bulging, upper headwall. Unique with no crimps; only sidepulls.

Start: In the middle of this buttress, about 35' right of Corkscrew, at a 20'-tall slab.

P1 5.12a G: Scramble up the 4th class slab and stick-clip the first bolt. Go up a dihedral to a good ledge, then up and left to a roof. Over the roof on the right, then up an overhanging face using slopey sidepulls to a final mantel and a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Sideways   5.10a   G   100'   

Watch for rope drag on the first section. Great view from the top.

Start: 75' right of Corkscrew (and 15' uphill), on the right side of the buttress, 40' right of a crack that splits the middle of the buttress.

P1 5.10a G: Move left 10' under an overhanging face, then back right up a ramp that goes above the overhanging face. Large holds lead to a midway ledge, just left of a small pine tree. Walk 40' across the ledge and move up to the left of a large block that forms a roof. Continue into a corner between a slab and block, step right onto left side of block and up to a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: Draws.

Terapia   5.12a   G   50'   

[Between routes #1 and #2, page 557]

Start: On the arête 10' right of Mountain Bruin.

P1 5.12a G: Stick-clip the first bolt, then climb the arête and beautiful orange–yellow face just right of the arête to a fixed anchor. 50'

The Weasel Climb   5.9   G   50'   

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 557]

Start: 18' left of Sitting Duck, just right of an arête, at a short handcrack. This is right of, and just around the corner from Trigger Finger.

P1 5.9 G: Up the handcrack, then step right to a bolt. Go up and right over a bulge, then up left to a stepped ceiling. Over this at a thin seam, then work up the face just right of the arête to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Draws plus medium cams.


Snowy Mountain

 The sites on Mason Lake should be added to the list of "Where to Stay" [page 476], and are particularly convenient for those climbing at Snowy Mountain. These attractive sites are along Jessup River Road; from Speculator, drive 8.2 miles north (toward Indian Lake) on Route 30 to Jessup River Road. Turn left and drive 0.3 miles south. The lake is on your left.

 The turnoff from the DEC hiking trail near the campsite on the ridge is reportedly more difficult to find with new blowdown from Hurricane Irene.


Porter Mountain

Porter Party   5.8   PG (5.2 X)   365'   

Start: 75' left of the exposed right-rising ramp covered with prickly raspberry and blueberry bushes that marks the approach to the start of the Goodwin–Eastman Route, at a right-rising vegetated corner, the left edge of a clean steep slab.

P1 5.2 X: Up bushes in corner for 30', then step out right on good holds and ledges. Belay on the highest ledge. 75'

P2 5.5 PG: Aim for a small, left-rising overlap about 50' up. Up slab past a bolt, then angle left to a second bolt below a small right-facing corner. Gear belay above on a 10"-deep ledge. 125'

P3 5.8 PG: Up black fracture to headwall and puzzling overlap (crux, bolt). Aim up and slightly right on a long easy run-out to second headwall; break through overlap with good gear to a tree belay. 165'

Mellor–Hyson   5.8   R   620'   

Ascends a direct line between the lowest and highest points on the cliff.

Start: At the low point on the cliff, directly below the right end of the prominent, bushy, right-rising traverse terrace (the one from which the Goodwin–Eastman Route begins), at a 5'-high, left-facing flake, below a black roof 40' up.

P1 5.8 R: Climb the unprotected face—slightly right then back left—to roof alcove and some protection. Break roof, then traverse left to rising overlap at prominent right-rising crack (#1 or #2 Camalot). Up slab, then right to birch clump. 180'

P2 5.6 R: Climb rock right of grassy pasture to belay at steepening wall. 90'

P3 5.5 X: Move right over flake ledges. Then climb 40' of unbelievably pocketed rock on left-rising ramp; no protection until you reach the headwall (#2 Camalot). Traverse left to short right-facing corner, break headwall at crack above, then go up to trees. 190'

P4 5.4 R: Climb black slab to top. 160'

A. Minor Mellor Route   5.7   R (5.6 X)   500'

There is some really good rock on this high mountain face. And the views (including thirteen 46rs) are as good any in the park. This route holds a direct line to the cliff's high point, running parallel to and about 40' right of Mellor–Hyson.

Start: 30' up and right from the cliff's obvious lowest point. The Mellor–Hyson starts just left of this low point.

P1 5.7 R: Face climb up and slightly left to a bolt (25' right of the crux black roof of Mellor–Hyson) and up to a right-facing corner. Angle up and right to belay at a pair of balsam firs. 120'

P2 5.6 PG: Climb big blocks and flakes straight up to a faint quartz dike and a bad-stance belay at a left-facing flake (cams to 2") 125'

P3 5.7 R: Weave upward, slightly left at first, to find holds and meager gear, finally breaking the headwall at a little roof 10' right of the obvious right-facing corner–roof. Make a long runout to the trees. This exciting pitch alternates between the good black pocketed rock and the white-yellow to its right. It wouldn't be a good place to try leading. 170'

P4 5.6 X: Surprisingly good. Aim straight up the middle of the face, breaking a roof about 40' up. This is left of the obvious left-facing corner. Keep the line past another roof to the top. 100'

Descent: Rappel 100' from a good balsam to a tree ledge. Next, 200' to a scarred cedar. Next 170' straight down to base, crossing the Goodwin–Stanley traverse.


Mineville Slab

Zero Gravity Bella   5.2   G   40'

Start: Same as Turd Ferguson Can Suck It.

P1 5.2 G: Follow a left-rising ramp system. When the crack disappears, small slopey buckets lead to the top of Conveyor Belt. 40'

Turd Ferguson Can Suck It   5.5   G   35'

Start: 30' right of Conveyor Belt below an obvious parallel crack system.

P1 5.5 G: Work the low-angled dirty cracks to the ledge 20' up. Finish up the final section (crux) to belay at a few trees. 35'


Peregrine Pillar Area: Banzai Wall

 Variation to Oscillation Overthruster [Route #12, page 276].

V2 5.9 G: Useful if P1 is wet. Begin 6' left of the normal start and climb the outside face of the tower past a hole, then up a left-leaning crack to the top of the tower. Step down and right to the P1 fixed anchor.


Santa Claus Hill

Location: Wilmington, accessed from the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431)

Aspect: South and east

Height: 70' to 200'

Quality: ***

Description: Despite being obvious from the road (and even downtown Wilmington), this cliff appears to have escaped attention. The summit area above the cliff is a popular hiking destination with good views, a forest road approach, and a large stone fireplace (and grill).

The approach reaches the cliff at its toe. Right of the toe the cliff faces east, is overhanging, dirty, about 70' tall, and has very featured rock, although no cracks. Left of the toe is the "big wall" section that faces south, rises up to 200', and is capped by a roof, the location of Santa Crux and its neighbors. Left of the "big wall" are the crack lines Yes, Virginia and Rudolph.

The cliff is slow to dry after rain.

Approach: 25 min, moderate

Directions: From Wilmington, at the "four corners"—the intersection of NY 86, the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431), and Bonnie View Road—go west on the Whiteface Memorial Highway (NY 431) for 1.7 miles. Park at a pullout on the right (north) side of the road, just past Santa's Workshop (taking care not to block any gravel roads). Alternatively, there is a pullout on the south side of the road 200 yards west of Santa's Workshop.

From the pullout, walk a few feet up a gravel "loop" road to a weed-covered forest road that leaves the loop and goes north. At 1 min, bear left at a fork. At 2 min, the road crosses into state land (there is a Forest Preserve sign on a birch). At 5 min, a road branches to the left at a clearing; continue straight north. At 7 min, another road joins from the right; continue straight. At 9 min, reach a small double clearing. From the second part of this double clearing, two very faint roads branch left (west); take the first one. The road will fade to a lightly traveled intermittent path with some other faint roads branching from it, then fades completely, although there is some flagging. Persist uphill in the same direction on the intermittent path, moderately uphill, to reach the toe of the cliff at 25 min 18T 590924 4917424.

Note: The first section of the approach is private property. At present, there are no private property signs, and it seems obvious that many people use this road to hike up this hill. If there is a concern about crossing private land, it's easy to bushwhack along the heavily blazed property line from NY 431 for a couple minutes and reach the forest road where it enters state land.

Yes, Virginia   5.8   G   80'   

Good gear, but the oddly-shaped crack makes it difficult to place; not a good lead for beginning 5.8 leaders.

Start: Near the left end of the big wall, as the path starts going uphill, a 15'-long tongue of white rock extends from the bottom of the cliff. Left of this, locate an overhanging, flaring, black chimney high on the cliff, with a tan-colored "shark's tooth" boulder jammed in the top of it. 15' feet right of the chimney is a large nose of rock with cracks on either side of it. Begin directly below the nose at an obvious stepped crack, just left of the tongue of white rock.

P1 5.8 G: Step up the crack through some easier climbing to a flat platform below a vertical wall. Climb the crack system on the right side of the nose. At the top of the vertical wall, walk up an easy slope to a tree with a fixed anchor. 80'

Rudolph   5.5   G   120'   

Start: Same as Yes, Virginia.

P1 5.5 G: (V1) Go up the crack a few feet, then traverse right 20' to a right-leaning crack. Follow the crack for 90' to an easier brushy finish at a 4" beech tree with a fixed anchor. 120'

V1 5.8 R: Begin right of the tongue of white rock, directly below the right-leaning crack. Boulder 10' up to the crack (no gear, bad landing) and join the normal route.

Descent: Rappel with a 60m rope.

Santa Crux   5.10d   G (5.1 X)   100'   

Three hard cruxes separated by easier climbing on brilliant, clean stone .

Start: About 40' right of Yes, Virginia is a 20'-tall, overhanging, white wall. Right of this a low-angle slab. Begin on the right side of the slab.

P1 5.10d G (5.1 X): Go up and left across the slab to its left side. Move up to a roof (#2 Camalot), then over this (crux) to a low-angle slab. Run out the slab to the next bulge (trivial climbing, but not a place to fall) and pull this (5.9 G) using great knobs. Continue straight up the slab on great holds and a bit of friction to a final bulge; pull this at a left-facing flake (5.8+ G), then move up super-featured, black, knobby rock to a fixed anchor shared with Silent Flight. 100'

Gear: Draws plus a #1 or #2 Camalot.

Naughty or Nice   5.10a   G   100'   

Start: Same as Santa Crux.

P1 5.10a G: Fly up the right side of the slab to blocky steps at its top. Go over a bulge, then leftwards up the slab and over the next bulge. Continue straight up the slab to a right-facing open book in black rock. Up the open book (crux) to a tricky mantel, then move up and left to the fixed anchor shared with Santa Crux. 100'

Gear: Draws.

Silent Flight   5.8   G   120'   

Varied and interesting.

Start: 25' right of Santa Crux at a right-facing, black, frequently-wet open book above a three-trunked white ash tree.

P1 5.8 G: Move up the unprotected, frequently-wet corner to a ledge and hidden protection. Mantel left onto the ledge, then go straight up the face to the left side of a distinctive, left-pointed flake below large black roofs. Climb the face left of the left-pointed flake (crux) to a slab below the roof, traverse left under the roof, then pull through the roof on its left side to a fixed anchor shared with Santa Crux. 120'

Gear: Draws.

Don We Know Wears Gay Apparel   5.9   G   90'   

Varied climbing, and more continuous than the other routes.

Start: From Silent Flight, walk right along the base of the cliff and onto a right-rising ledge. At its highest point is a large tree; from here scramble up a short 5'-tall wall to the next ledge, then walk right to a huge terrace in a black corner, hidden from below. Begin at the toe of a slab 20' left of the corner.

P1 5.9 G: Move leftwards on the slab to a shallow, right-facing corner. Up the corner to its top, then step left onto a face and climb up past several horizontal cracks. At the highest horizontal, move right 6', then go straight up a knobby face to a fixed anchor. 90'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 1.5". The crux is protected by small TCUs.


Fox Mt Crag

Location: West of the village of Raquette Lake overlooking Browns Tract Inlet.

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 100'

Description: This long cliff rises above Browns Tract Inlet and is a mix of slabs, roofs, flakes, and cracks. Similar to nearby Bald Mountain, the rock is quite dirty, but a few clean lines have been uncovered. The main face is over 400' wide and 100' tall with good potential for routes to those that persevere.

There is good cell reception at the cliff.

Camping: There is a beautiful campground run by the DEC—Brown Tract Pond (315.354.4412)—about 3 miles away.

Approach: 20 min, easy

Directions: Park at the Raquette Lake Free Library in the village of Raquette Lake 18T 527592 4851240. Walk (or bike) west on Dillon Road, an old railroad bed and a designated biking trail and snowmobile trail, for 0.2 mile to a locked gate. Continue past the gate for 0.6 mile with good views of the cliff. Once past the cliff (and just west of the swampy area in front of the cliff) 18T 526272 4850872, leave the road and head northeast to the talus. Ascend the left side of the talus, working right to reach the cairn (a cheater stack of stones) at the base of Outfoxed 18T 526492 4851172.

You can also reach the cliff from the west by following Dillon Road (the old railroad) from a gate 18T 523846 4849812 near Upper Brown Tract Pond.

Outfoxed   5.8   PG   100'   

An unprotected crux start. Most of the dirty rock is avoided by staying on the nicely featured outside faces of the flakes.

Start: At some stacked blocks 100' left of Devin Monkey below a roof 4' up. 50' right is a large open book capped by a roof.

P1 5.8 PG: Boulder up to gain a left-facing flake which is climbed to its top. Move right across a vegetated black streak to another left-facing flake and climb to its top. Move left and step over a black streak to right-facing flake which is followed up and left to a sloping ramp. Head up and right up a small buttress with incut holds to a fixed anchor on a very large pine tree. 100'.

Gear: To 3".

Devin Monkey   5.6   PG   90'   

Enjoyable flake climbing down low with a grungy finish.

Start: At the highest point along the base of the cliff, on top of a short slab overlooking the open talus field.

P1 5.6 PG: Go up a leaning arête to a tree ledge. Step left onto a block then up a right-sloping ramp to some flakes. Climb the left-facing flakes system to its top at a large ledge. (V1) Walk right 10' and climb a crack in a very dirty slab to the top. 90'

V1 5.10 TR: Go straight up to gain a horizontal above the ledge, hand traverse left 10' to holds above a ceiling. Pull through the ceiling, then up a notch to the top.

Gear: To 2".


Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

 The bolts on Crack Mechanic and Coffee Achievers have been replaced.

 Variation to Crack Mechanic [Route #32, page 301], making this route a completely independent line.

V1 Crack Mechanic Direct 5.11d G: Begin as for Great Chimney and scramble to a ledge on top of a block (the center of this block forms the offwidth of Coffee Achievers). Move up a shallow left-facing corner to its top below an overhang. Over this (bolt) to a sidepull, then up to a good horizontal of the normal route.

 The initial protection pocket on Raging Raven [Route #17, page 297] has pulled off, making the route a little more difficult (maybe 5.11c), and definitely more difficult to protect at the start; a stick-clip may be prudent.

 On P2 of Bogeyman [Route #42, page 303], half the flake next to the first bolt has pulled off. Check the integrity of the remaining flake. The moves are more awkward and reachy now, but still around the same grade. If the remainder of the flake falls, it could guillotine your rope and possibly your belayer.


Bass Lake Hill Crag

Location: East side of the Northway, near North Hudson

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 200'

Description: This large and complex cliff can be easily seen from the old Frontier Town airstrip, and from the north-bound exit ramp of Northway Exit 29. The overall quality of the rock is reminiscent of Hurricane Crag—a bit of loose rock that can be pried off, and a sort of bristly, dry feel.

The cliff is 150' wide and about 200' tall, but is broken by a ledge and some 4th class rock at the top. There is potential for eight to ten routes.

Walking along the base of the cliff from left to right, after some broken rock, you'll reach a large 8'-tall boulder sitting a few feet from the cliff marking the left side of the first good climbing wall. This wall is about 60' by 60' with an obvious crack in an open book in the middle. Downhill and right of this is a short black wall that just out; 15' up is an obvious V-notch, and the start of the route Snakeskin. Right of Snakeskin is a large flat ledge below a 50'-tall tower of rock (The Citadel) with several promising cracks. Most of the climbing potential is around the area of Snakeskin and The Citadel.

Approach: 40 min, moderate

Directions: From Northway Exit 29 (North Hudson), follow US 9 north for 8.5 miles to Caza Turn Road on the right. Turn right and drive approximately 100 yards past the first house and locate an old blacktop road on the right that heads east, the little known (and unsigned) Caza Trailhead. Park along Caza Turn Road 18T 602976 4871116.

Walk the blacktop road east a couple hundred feet until it enters the woods and becomes a trail (there are "Forest Preserve" signs and "No live bait in Bass Lake" signs). Even though there is no roadside sign or trail register, this is a wonderfully maintained DEC trail that leads to Bass Lake and beyond to Berrymill Flow. Follow the trail along Black Brook, and then uphill. You will cross a small brook at about 5 min. At 15 min there is a cairn on the right side of the trail (you've gone too far if you reach three tiny brooks that cross the trail in rock lined channels). From the cairn, leave the trail and bushwhack 225º for 25 min to the top of the hill. Continue over the top of the hill and down the southwest side for a couple hundred feet to the top of the cliff 18T 603774 4870304. Reach the bottom of the cliff by hiking around the west (skier's right) end.

The slabs on top are very exposed.

Snakeskin   5.7   R   95'   

Start: Below a V-notch 15' up in a black wall that juts out. There is also a cairn here.

P1 5.7 R: Work straight up to the notch (no gear, 5.7 R). Through the V-notch, then up easier rock to a cleaned, slightly left-leaning corner. At the top of the corner, step right of the arête and climb an attractive face for a few feet to an easy finish. Fixed anchor on the tree at the top. 95'


Fun-da-ga-o Cliff

Location: Soda Range, accessed from Hurricane Road outside of Keene

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 70'

Description: Located at the high point on the Nun-da-ga-o Ridge, this small cliff has excellent views spanning from the Dix range to Whiteface. The cliff is 500' wide, although the left end is ledgy and broken. The climbing is fairly good with cracks and featured faces on generally high-quality rock. Many of the obvious lines have now been climbed, but there is potential for those willing to climb less well-protected faces. There are no trees near the edge, so gear anchors are generally required.

Approach: 50 min, moderate

Descent: Walk right to the trail and follow that to the base of the cliff.

Directions: From NY 73 / NY 9N in the center of Keene near the fire barn, drive 2.3 miles up Hurricane Road (CR 13) to a 90º bend to the right and the intersection with O'Toole Lane. Turn left and drive to the end of the road at Crow Clearing and the trailhead for Hurricane, Lost Pond, and Big Crow.

Hike the trail toward Big Crow for about two-tenths of a mile (about 10 min), steeply at times, to near the summit of Big Crow. Look for a trail on the right marked for Nun-da-ga-o Ridge (this ridge is marked "Soda Range" on the USGS maps); the intersection is obvious, but, as of 2011, the Nun-da-ga-o sign is very faded. Follow this trail, unmarked but in good shape and easy to follow, for 40 minutes over a series of bumps with beautiful views. Near the high point on the ridge the trail reaches the base of a 40'-tall cliff that wraps around the summit 18T 601288 4903288. The hiking trail meets the cliff at the route Mint Marcy; this route, as well as Crumbs Along the Mohawk and Samboneparte are climbed directly from the hiking trail.

Left End

To reach the Left End, bushwhack along the base of the cliff through thick balsam growth, or go back down the trail into the notch and through less thick growth to the base of the cliff (this is the easier approach for reaching Peanut Butter Pandemonium).

Peanut Butter Pandemonium   5.7   G   70'   

Start: 150' yards left of the trail below a winding crack on a right-facing arête.

P1 5.7 G: Follow a winding crack to a ledge below a short fingercrack. Pull the crack past a bulge and climb the face directly above it (crux), which can be avoided by moving right into a chimney–flake. 70'

Caramel Chasm   5.7   G   40'   

Start: At a prominent chimney–crack, 150' left of the trail.

P1 5.7 G: Access the hanging chimney via bouldery moves on the right-hand face. At half height, step across to the juggy left-hand edge of the crack and follow this to a loose topout.

Gear: 4" cam useful.

Fudge Brownie a la Mode   5.6   G   40'   

Start: Begin 75' left of the trail at a clean face beneath a small overlap.

P1 5.6 G: A tricky start leads up the face to the overlap. Over this, the up past several small wire placements. 40'

Right End

This is the section of cliff where the trail reaches the base.

Mint Marcy   5.7   G   40'   

Start: Where the trail reaches the base of the cliff, at a system of small flakes below a ledge 15' up.

P1 5.7 G: Climb the flakes to the ledge, then up a thin crack to the top. Scramble up ledges to set up a belay. 40'

Crumbs Along the Mohawk   5.9+   G   40'   

Start: At a left-facing corner 10' right of Mint Marcy.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the corner onto a small ledge (small cam essential), then up some insecure tips-locks into a handcrack. Exit onto the summit ledges with a gear belay.

Samboneparte   5.8   G   40'   

A superb climb, if only it were longer!. Sports an excellent thin crack and a clean face topout.

Start: 10' right of the Crumbs Along the Mohawk corner, behind some brush at a set of small corners below a thin fingercrack that breaks a small roof.

P1 5.8 G: Up the corners past some hollow jugs and through the roof via the fingercrack. Near the top of the crack, step right and continue up the face. Belay on the summit ledges. 40'


Gore Mountain: Paul's Ledge

Description: Paul's Ledge is mentioned in the introduction to Gore Mountain [page 506] as having a scenic viewpoint with a couple topropes.

Paul's Gondola Ride   5.4   G   45'   

A beautiful setting with views of Gore Mountain and the mountains to the east.

Start: [Map page 507] From Paul's Ledge on the blue blazed Schaeffer Trail, scramble (skier's) left along the cliff edge to a 5'-deep fissure. Scramble down into the fissure, then head (climber's) left along base of the cliff past a vertical toproping wall directly below the lookout. Begin 25' left of a blocky right-facing corner that has a clean overhanging right-facing wall, in front of a large two-trunked birch tree.

P1 5.4 G: Make a couple friction moves to a horizontal crack 10' up, then pass a large birch to the right. Continue on a right-rising line towards the blocky corner. Climb over a couple of large blocks and then into the corner for the last moves to the top. 45'


Panther Gorge

Kat Nap   5.9+   PG   280'

[Between routes #2 and #3, page 409]

Start: At the huge left-facing dihedral that separates the Agartha Wall and Feline Wall.

P1 5.9+ PG: Up a left-leaning crack to a small left-facing corner, then up to a grassy ledge at the base of the main corner system. Follow the main corner system to a belay on a good ledge. 230'

P2 5.8 G: Continue up the corner system to a spruce ledge at its top. 50'

Descent: Rappel the left side of the Feline Wall.

Bushy Pussy   5.9+   G   40'

On the Feline wall, this route has clean rock and a well-protected crux.

Start: Same as for The Cat's Meow; go up and around the dirty slab to a belay beneath the right side of the tall, low-angled wall.

P1 5.8 PG: Go up vertical cracks on the low-angled wall, stay left of a tall shrub-filled depression, and move slightly right toward an arête at the edge of the wall. Make a tricky slab move then work up and left to a belay beneath a steep wall with two vertical cracks. 180'

P2 5.9+ G: Climb the crack on the left side of the steep wall (crux) then continue up easier cracks and slabs that are left of vegetation. Belay from trees at the top of the wall. 160'

P3 3rd Class: Bushwhack up and right (northeast) toward a low-angled cliffband with a shrub-filled gully. Go up the gully to the end of the technical climbing. 300'

Descent: From the top of the gully bushwhack steeply uphill and heading north. Continuing north, the slope and bushwhacking ease and the Phelps Trail is reached 15 min from the top of the gully.


Jewels and Gem

 The route Pearl Necklace is high quality (***) and has PG protection—spaced, hidden, and excellent.

Gold Digger   5.10b   TR   60'

This route climbs the thin seam between North Country Club Crack and Diamond and Coal. Go up the seam, then straight up to the top.

Hidden Gem   5.9+   PG   60'

Start: 7' right of Shaky Spider, on a ledge with a large birch, 15' right of In the Rough, below a right-facing corner.

P1 5.9+ PG: Climb onto a small, dirty ledge via a groove–crack, and then step left to the base of a right-facing corner with a crack. Work up the corner to an overhang and break through using a blind crimp on the left face and up onto small ledges. Follow the right-hand fingercrack up to the top to a sloping, boulder-filled ledge. 60'

Gear: Small nuts, micro cams to 1".


Pilot Knob: The Brain

This is Spinal Tap   5.10b   G   80'   

[Between routes #20 and #21, pages 440–441]

Start: Between Where's my Cane? and Corpus Callosum.

P1 5.10b G: Make a right-rising traverse on a good crack, then up a left-diagonalling, intermittent crack to a lower angled section. Go straight up past to a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Quickdraws and small gear plus a 2" cam for bottom.


Buck Mountain: New Buck

Some additions to New Buck make a great teaching area that can be easily set up to accommodate a group.

 The route Train Wreck was once the worse climb at New Buck, but has cleaned up nicely.

Green Thumb   5.7   TR   50'

[Between routes #20 and #21, page 436]

Climb the face, crack, and flake just left of Train Wreck. The flake in the middle is hollow and would make protection scary.

Doe Si Doe   5.8-   TR   75'

[Left of route #26, page 436]

A one-move wonder. Begin just left of Fawn Crack at a shallow, right-facing corner. Go up and left to a protruding flake-crack which is followed to the Fawn Crack anchors.

Iron in the Fire   5.6   TR   70'

[Right of route #26, page 436]

Easier or harder depending how much of the big depression you use. Begin just right of where an arching roof meets ground. Go up thin cracks, flakes and holes, trending left around depression, then go straight up to the anchors of Fly in the Ointment.

Fly in the Ointment   5.5   G   75'

Start: 10' right of Iron in the Fire.

P1 5.5 G: Climb straight up, staying right of depression, past horizontals to a fixed anchor. 75'

Gear: Quickdraws plus gear to 1".

Bun in the Oven   5.4   G   80'   

Start: 25' right of Fawn Crack at a short corner crack.

P1 5.4 G: Climb face right of the short corner crack using "holes" for pro. Move up to horizontal, then up left to fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Quickdraws and small gear.

Pig in a Poke   5.3   G   55'

Start: Up and right, just left of a gully beneath cracks that start 15' up.

P1 5.3 G: Follow intermittent cracks to a fixed anchor. 55'

Gear: To 0.5".


Clements Pond Trail

Location: Keene, accessed from NYS 9N and Styles Brook Road

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 50'–80'

Approach: 20 min, easy

Description: The Clements Mountain tract is part of the Wilmington Wild Forest, featuring Clements Mountain and some rolling country to its west, including Clements Pond. Two cliffs have been identified and developed within this tract. The DEC has recently routed a fishing access trail from Styles Brook Road to Clements Pond, which provide convenient access to these cliffs. The rock is somewhat similar to the Pitchoff Chimney cliff, in that it is sandy, red, sometimes fragile, and has horizontal features.

Directions: From Keene (0.0), go north on NYS 9N. At 3.0 miles, turn right on Styles Brook Road (labeled Glen Road on some maps). Climb the steep hill until the road levels off. You will pass the driveway of the Keene Farm (the hut owned by the Alpine Club of Canada) on your left. At 4.0 miles (and 600' past the driveway), park on the right (south) side of the road, at a pullout that will accommodate 4 cars.

The DEC has not yet officially opened and signed the new Clements Pond fishing access trail, so at this time (July 2010), the trailhead is not obvious. Enter the woods on the north side of the road at a large tan-colored boulder in the ditch. Follow rough paths for 100' to the start of the maintained trail 18T 598302 4906020, marked with blue discs. The trail begins flat, then climbs moderately, crossing and re-crossing a small brook.


Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth

The Towers of the Teeth are two promontories of rock extending from the hillside, joined by a sandy neck of land. The upper tower is to the left, and the lower tower is below it to the right. Access to the tops of the towers is to climbers left of the upper tower, or by scrambling up between the towers. The tops of the towers have panoramic views extending from Giant around to Sentinel.

Directions: Follow the trail for 17 minutes to where you can glimpse a cliff through the trees on the right. Continue on the trail as it goes slightly downhill to a low point. There is a large three-trunked oak tree left of the trail here (with one dead trunk), and a small cairn right of the trail. (There is another large three-trunked oak tree about 50' further along the trail.) With no leaves, the cliff is visible through the trees on the right. Leave the trail at a cairn at the low point and walk easily downhill a couple hundred feet through open woods to the cliff 18T 598498 4906928.


Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth: Upper Tower

Thangorodrim   5.8-   PG   50'

Start: At a clean, right-facing, low-angle corner with an extremely thin crack, which widens to hands 20' up.

P1 5.8- PG: Climb the corner, initially on balancy face moves with very tiny gear, until the crack opens up and the climbing and the gear become much easier. Finish on a large, pleasant ledge. 50'

Descent: Rappel from the fixed anchor for the neighboring route, or scramble up blocks to the top of the tower

Gear: Standard rack plus Lowe Balls or doubles of small nuts.

Hobbit's Way   5.6   G   50'

Start: At a wide crack–chimney, 8' right of Thangorodrim.

P1 5.6 G: Up the chimney for 6', then up a short, left-rising ramp to a crack. Up the crack to a large ledge and a tree with a fixed anchor. 50'

The Silmaril   5.7   G   70'

Start: From Hobbit's Way, walk downhill and right 35' past a blocky, broken, right-facing corner to a reddish right-facing corner with a large, rotten-looking crack that widens to an alcove 15' up. Above the alcove are two dihedrals (the upper left dihedral is moderately steep and capped by a roof, the lower right dihedral is lower-angled and disappears out of sight). Begin at the large, rotten looking crack. There is a large, freshly-fallen, orange-red block (the "Silmaril") on the ground near the base.

P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack to the alcove. Pull up and left (crux) into the upper-left dihedral, and climb this. Step right around the roof at the top, and then up to a small birch tree cluster. 70'

Descent: Scramble left to the Hobbit's Way anchor to rappel

Gear: Standard rack plus one large cam (3" or 4") for the crux.

Project

The Oath of Fëanor: Like Fëanor's Oath, this starts out looking reasonable and then becomes a problem. Begin the large rotten-looking crack as for The Silmaril, climb to the alcove, and continue in the lower right dihedral as it narrows, and then finally inverts and becomes a rising hand traverse under a large roof. Once past the right end of the roof, climb straight up few feet, then back left to the same finish as The Silmaril.


Clements Pond Trail: The Towers of the Teeth: Lower Tower

The left end of the lower tower begins 75' right of The Silmaril, past an outcrop and a brushy side hill. Find some broken ledges and cracks, and then a left-facing corner capped by a roof 15' up. 20' right of the left-facing corner is a vertical, straight in crack which overhangs slightly for the first 10'; this is Morannon.

Project

Morannon: Begin 20' right of a left-facing corner at a vertical, overhanging crack. A strenuous start leads to easier crack climbing into a left-facing corner and a blocky finish. About 45' long.


Clements Pond Trail: Fisherman's Wall

This wall also has wonderful views from its top, and numerous blueberries in season. The key to finding the routes on this wall is the obvious recent rockfall at the foot of the center of the wall. The two routes are on either side of this rockfall area.

Directions: Follow the trail for 20 minutes to the base of the cliff, which sits about 30' off to the right. This is about 3 minutes past the turnoff for The Towers of the Teeth, and just after a switchback in the trail 18T 598302 4906020. Past this point, the trail continues another half mile mostly downhill to Clements Pond.

Fish Story   5.9   PG   80'   

Start: About 20' left of the recent rockfall (which is at the foot of the center of the wall), at some easy blocks, with a 4" birch tree growing out of the cliff 12' up to (climber's) left.

P1 5.9 G: Scramble up the blocks, and then left past the birch tree onto a left-rising ledge. Walk up the ledge to the pile of blocks below the spectacular headwall. Climb straight up the headwall on a series of disjointed cracks to a fine ledge, and then up the last crux bit for 10' to the top. 80'

Gear: Standard rack with micro nuts or ball nuts for the last section.

Fishin' Cruise   5.9   G   70'   

Start: About 20' right of the rockfall (which is at the foot of the center of the wall), a roof line develops about 12' up. Begin at the obvious flaring crack that splits the center of the roof.

P1 5.9 G: A strenuous start through the roof (crux) leads to easier climbing as the crack swings left past a small birch tree and then up to the top. 70'

Descent: There is a fixed anchor on a tree 10' to the right.


Hoffman Notch

Location: North Hudson, accessed from the Hoffman Notch trailhead on Blue Ridge Road

Aspect: South and east

Height: 200'

Description: The Hoffman Notch trail runs 7.4 miles in a north-to-south direction. The area is an explorer's dream, accessed by a well-maintained trail and surrounded by a vast wild forest—the Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest—about 2 miles south of Blue Ridge Road.

There are three named cliffs: The Trailside Wall, the Long Wall, and the Outback Wall.

The Trailside Wall faces east and parallels the trail, about 100'–200' to the right (west). Towards the left (south) end, at the point nearest the trail is a section with potential for some overhanging cracks routes.

At the far left (south) end of the Trailside Wall, it makes a 90 degree bend 18T 591752 4864929, turning uphill, forming the Long Wall, which faces south. This is the largest and sunniest of the cliffs, and has potential for many routes.

The Outback Wall is steeply uphill, west of and above the north end of the Trailside Wall. The Outback Wall is not visible from the trail, and takes an additional 35 minutes of strenuous uphill hiking to reach 18T 591694 4865434. There is limited potential here for rock routes.

Approach: 1 hr, moderate

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 29, go west on CR 84 (aka Blue Ridge Road) 5.4 miles. The trailhead parking is on the left (south) side of the road, across from a "Ragged Mountain Fish and Game Club" sign. The small pullout will accommodate 5 cars.

Follow the Hoffman Notch trail south through relatively level terrain. After the last of several bridges, the trail passes the remains of an ancient track machine. Then, the trail makes a series of gentle climbs alongside Hoffman Notch Brook, and then descends slightly and levels off close to the brook. Large boulders appear by the right side of the trail, and soon sections of the Trailside Wall may be glimpsed through the trees.

There is one approach path for both the Long Wall and the Trailside Wall. The marked hiking trail passes through a small, deep washout among boulders, then ducks under a large downed tree, and traverses a short wet section. A large, mossy boulder (the Bucket Boulder) will be seen on right side of the trail at a seasonal brook crossing; this boulder may be positively identified by the old rusty bucket sitting on its south side. The path starts directly behind this boulder, and is marked with cairns.


Hoffman Notch: Long Wall

Directions: From the Bucket Boulder (0.0 min), the path follows a seasonal brook bed which drains the waterfall area at the far left end of the Trailside Wall. In a minute or so, the cavernous black face of the waterfall area comes into view, and the path comes to a junction 18T 591752 4864929: the right branch leads to the Trailside Wall, and straight ahead leads to the Long Wall. Go straight, cross the brook, then traverse left and around the corner to the Long Wall. At 10 min, the path reaches a large cairn about 80' from the base of the Long Wall, a position directly beneath the route Summer Rules.

To reach the top of the Long Wall, from the large cairn, follow the path right (east). Climb along a ledge, then make an improbable left turn to climb steeply up to the top of the wall. This is the only hiking route to the top of the cliff for 1000' in either direction.

Descent: Rappel. There may be some fixed anchors in place on trees. Longer routes may require two ropes for the rappel.

The Pretty Good Dihedral   5.8-   G   100'   

Start: Walk uphill and left along the base of the cliff and locate the huge, 100'-wide roof 40' up. Near the left end of the roof, the path steps away from the cliff, around a small buttress, then climbs up steep open woods to return to the base of the cliff below an enormous left-facing corner. Begin on top of a bushy ledge a few feet up at the bottom of the dihedral.

P1 5.8- G: Climb through a low crux, and then continue up the dihedral to finish at a medium sized cedar. (A second pitch appears possible above and left.) 100'

Project

Peregrine: 35' left of The Cockpit, is a pile of recent rock fall at the base of two left-facing corners. The right-hand corner is loose and orange, and the left-hand corner is black and solid. 20' left of these is another group of smaller left-facing corners, with a large cedar growing on a ledge 20' up. Begin 6' left of the large cedar on a small sloping platform at the base of the cliff. Climb blocky rock, passing 6' left of the large cedar, and up a left-facing corner. Step right around a bulge at 60', and left around another bulge at 70' to a fine, exposed ledge. Continue up the corner to the top. Definitely the most appealing rock up here.

Project

The Cockpit: 35' left of Three Way at a section of blocky, white rock with a large roof about 30' above. This cleaned, open project begins at the left edge of the blocky white rock, under a small "octopus" cedar. Go up the blocky white rock and then traverse to the right under the roof into a cramped stance. Turn the roof where it is smallest, a few feet left of a tiny evergreen that sprouts about 5' above the roof. Move up and right to finish straight up a vertical crack in white rock.

Three Way   5.8   PG   150'

Start: At a left-facing corner, 40' left of Summer Rules.

P1 5.8 PG: Easy climbing up the corner leads to a steeper section about 20' up with some loose rock to climber's right. Climb up and left to a weedy ledge, then step up left and continue on a clean, exposed face, and a vertical groove, to finish up the left side of a blank buttress with a wonderfully exposed perch at its top. 150'

Summer Rules   5.7   G   150'

Not recommended due to loose and scary rock.

Start: From the right end of the cliff, walk 300' or so uphill and left and locate blocky rock with a small, cave-like overhang at its base. Above is a square, 6'-wide, chimney-like feature that continues up the cliff. (This is the line of the winter route Don't Fall or Go to Hell.

P1 5.7 G: Climb straight up, with ledges interspersed among steeper sections, finishing at the trees. The crux wall at 30' is loose and scary. 150'


McMartin Cliff

Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: Northwest (although the complex geometry has some sections facing south, west, and north).

Height: 100' (although may be higher in some of the undeveloped sections)

Approach: 42 min, moderate

Quality: ***

Description: This cliff is located in the Sacandaga River Valley along NY 10 in the same general area as Good Luck Mountain, Lost Hunter's Cliff, and Lost T. It shares the excellent rock found at Lost Hunter's Cliff—super textured, coarse rock, split by cracks. The cliff has a complex geometry consisting of many dihedrals, arêtes, overhangs, and steep overhanging faces. The base of the cliff is generally open and comfortable.

There are currently two groupings of routes. The first grouping is located above the dirt-scramble used to access the terrace at the base of the climbs; this is directly below a huge fin-like arête and the route Suomi. The second grouping is 100' uphill and left of the fin routes, at the height of land, where there are two large, flat-topped boulders, directly below the route Welcome to McMartin. Just right of the height-of-land is a large ledge 15' up with a boulder-tower, sitting in a huge corner; no routes here yet. Left of this second grouping the terrain drops steeply downhill along the base of the cliff, which continues for hundreds of feet of unexplored goodness.

The cliff is perhaps 500' or more wide, so there's good potential for more routes, although the rock is fairly dirty and may require considerable work.

Directions: Park as for Lost Hunter's Cliff [page 555] 18T 538004 4789286. From the east end of the parking pullout, locate an obvious trail in the trees (0.0 min) and follow this northeast. At 3 min reach a T intersection (going right goes to NY 10, the old approach); go left (downhill) for 50' towards Chub Lake. About 100' before the lake, turn right onto a small path and follow this as it contours around the east side of Chub Lake. The path crosses a small stream, then makes a short climb to a Y intersection at 9 min. The right branch goes to Lost T; you go left.

Follow the path as it meanders north, making several brief bends to the east. At 21 min cross two large streams that drain a beaver pond on the right 18T 538557 4790326. Just after the second stream is another intersection. The right fork leads to Lost Hunter's Cliff; you go straight. Proceed north following the trail; climb steadily uphill and stay well uphill (and west) of a narrow valley with a stream. Eventually, the terrain levels and you will come to a boggy section. Just after the bog is the turnoff for Lost T2; continue straight and slightly downhill. At 37 min you will see the first mini-cliff about 50' right of the trail. At 39 min make a right turn to the base of another mini-cliff; make a switchback to the right, then back left to the top of this mini-cliff. Continue north following the contour to reach the right end of main face—the Southern Wall—at 42 min 18T 538307 4791339.

Continue left along the base of the cliff to a short dirt-scramble up to a tree terrace—the Griffith Wall, directly below a 100'-tall fin of rock (and the routes Suomi and Mikkihiiri). This area contains the highest concentration of routes.


McMartin Cliff: Northern Wall

This is the section of cliff downhill and left of the Ball Cap—the orange buttress capped by roofs.

Ownership   5.4   G   70'

An attractive route, if not for the dirt and plants growing from the crack.

Start: From the Ball Cap, continue approximately 90' downhill to the low point of the terrain. Contour left along the base of the cliff for 200' to a slab with a handcrack, 20' left of a deep, left-facing chimney.

P1 5.4 G: Step up onto sloped holds and climb a 4'-tall, shallow, left-facing corner to gain the crack. Follow the crack to ledge with a 18"-diamater spruce tree with a fixed anchor. 70'


McMartin Cliff: Ball Cap

Left and downhill from the main face is a distinctive orange buttress with two left-facing corners capped by large roofs. There are two routes on this feature with a shared start.

Left Field   5.10a   PG   160'

Start: From the height of land, walk left along the cliff. After you walk past Stanley Frank, the terrain drops and about 70' from the height of land there is a shallow chimney that runs the height of the cliff (the winter route Gin and Juice). Begin 20' downhill and left of this chimney, and 6' left of a large birch growing up against the cliff, below a shallow crack system with two wedged chockstones 15' up.

P1 5.6 G: Go up the crack system past an overlap. Go the wide, shallow crack past two chockstones to a slab. Angle up and left to a fixed anchor. 60'

P2 5.10a PG: Go straight up into a large, orange, left-facing corner. Up the corner to a roof; go left under the roof, up a crack, then move right across a face and around an arête to the front face of the buttress. Continue straight up to a fixed anchor on top of the Ball Cap. 100'

Right Field   5.9   PG   160'

Start: Same as Left Field.

P1 5.6 G: Same as Left Field.

P2 5.9 PG: Go up and right to the right margin of the orange rock. Climb a wide crack in a left-facing corner to an alcove below roofs. Follow a crack straight through multi-tiered roofs. Continue straight up the face to a fixed anchor at the top of the Ball Cap. 100'


McMartin Cliff: Griffith Wall

Once you reach the cliff, contour left then scramble up a dirt slope and short slab to a tree-covered terrace, directly below a 100'-tall fin of rock (and the routes Suomi and Mikkihiiri). This is the right (southern) end of the Griffith Wall.

Stanley Frank   5.8   PG   50'   

Start: 30' left of the high point of the terrain, below the left of two cracks. The crack doesn't quite reach the ground.

P1 5.8 PG: Up the crack past the left end of an overlap 12' up. Continue up the crack past a small left-facing corner to a fixed anchor (shared with Henry Lewis). The anchor sits below and left of a 50'-tall arête with a square roof at the bottom. 50'

Gear: To 3".

Henry Lewis   5.8   G   50'   

Start: 15' right of Stanley Frank, below a left-leaning crack that begins as a seam and widens to fists 8' up.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack past a left-facing corner to a small ceiling. Step left to a fixed anchor shared with Stanley Frank. 50'

Gear: To 3".

Young Heavy Roosters   5.11a   G   100'   

Usually climbed in one pitch, but the first pitch makes a good route by itself.

Start: 4' right of Henry Lewis, and 12' left of a large left-facing corner at the height of the terrain, below a white face that overhangs for the first 6'.

P1 5.10b G : Up the face to a horizontal seam 10' up. Continue up the face to a fixed anchor. 50'

P2 5.11a G: Move up and right to the left end of a ceiling, then up a short left-facing corner to a larger left-facing corner. At its top, climb a face on the left, then up through tan-colored rock just right of a large arête. Up an inside corner to a roof, step right and up to the top. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Descent: Lower with a 60m rope.

Welcome to McMartin   5.11b   G   100'   

Usually climbed in one pitch, but the first pitch makes a good route by itself.

Start: At the height of land, on the right side of a large arête, 20' left and downhill from the boulder-tower that sits on a ledge 15' up (the boulder-tower is a landmark for the route Pay Dirt).

P1 5.9 G : Climb the face to a horizontal (fixed wire). Continue up the face and arête to the left to a fixed anchor under the large roof. 50'

P2 5.11b G: Step left to clear the roof on its left side. Continue straight up to a short open book, then angle up and right to a steep orange face. Up this to a fixed anchor below the top. 50'

Gear: Draws.

Descent: Lower with a 60m rope.

Harry Potter and the Witches Crack   5.8   G   50'

Start: 6' right of Welcome to McMartin below a wide crack in an 8'-high left-facing corner.

P1 5.8 G: Up the crack and into a large left-facing corner. Climb the crack to a roof, then step left to a fixed anchor (shared with P1 of Welcome to McMartin).

Gear: To 6".

Pay Dirt   5.10   PG   100'

Start: Same as Harry Potter and the Witches Crack.

P1 5.10 PG: Go up Harry Potter and the Witches Crack for a few feet, then scramble up and right to the a large ledge with a boulder-tower that forms a hallway with the main face (it may be wise to move the belay here). From the hallway, climb a left-leaning crack in the black rock on the main face to a ledge at its top. Continue up the crack line to a V-groove (bolt on right). Trend right through a fractured bulge to a ceiling. Over this, then up and left to a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff. 100'

Dog with a Nut Tool   5.9+   G   80'   

Positive edges on the face and some secure jams make this one approachable.

Start: 30' uphill and left of the dirt-scramble are two, shallow, left-facing corners: the left corner is 7' high, and the right corner is 12' high and scooped like a right-parenthesis. Begin in the right-hand corner.

P1 5.9+ G: Up the crack in the corner to a ledge at its top. Continue up a left-leaning crack in the face to where it thins and overhangs at its top (crux) where it meets the right side of a large, triangular roof. Continue up a large right-facing corner and the face to its right to a fixed anchor (shared with Trust Your Rubber). 80'

Gear: To 2".

Trust Your Rubber   5.9+   G   80'   

Good climbing, but presently very dirty.

Start: Same as Dog with a Nut Tool.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the corner of Dog with a Nut Tool to the ledge at its top. Step right and climb the face straight up to a fixed anchor (shared with Dog with a Nut Tool). 80'

Gear: Draws plus gear to 0.5".

Suomi   5.12   G   70'   

This dramatic line climbs the outside face of the fin above the dirt-scramble. Needs a stick-clip.

Start: 15' right of Trust Your Rubber at an overhanging face with a chest-high horizontal crack above which is a jagged seam and crack with angular holds.

P1 5.12 G: Up the overhanging face (crux) to where it turns vertical, then up to a horizontal break below an overhang. Over this, then up the outside face of the huge fin to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: Draws.

Mikkihiiri (aka Musse Pigg)   5.11d   G   80'   

Climbs the right side of the fin. Sustained, exposed, and difficult.

Start: On the right side of the fin, directly above the dirt-scramble, on a small ledge with a birth tree, below an ugly chimney that defines the right side of the fin.

P1 5.11d G: Up the chimney a few feet until you can step left onto a clean face. Up the face to an overhang on the nose. Step right onto a tower, then back onto the face, over and overlap (crux), and up to a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: Draws.


McMartin Cliff: Southern Wall

This is the short cliff where the trail meets the cliff, just right of the dirt scramble up to the tree-covered terrace below the Griffith Wall.

Rachael's Climb   5.8   G   50'   

Start: 100' right of the dirt-scramble, at a face with a right-rising ramp that starts at the ground and goes to about head height. This is 15' left of a poplar tree that has grown into the face.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the ramp up and right to a good horizontal. Move right to a vertical crack and climb this to a ledge 30' up with a small pine tree on the left. Continue up to another ledge with a fixed anchor. 50'


Lost T2 Cliff

Location: South of Piseco Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: West

Height: 60'

Approach: 35 min, moderate

Quality: **

Description: This cliff lies just south of McMartin Cliff, and is actually an extension of that cliff line. Due to the jumbled non-cliff terrain between Lost T2 and McMartin Cliff, the developers thought it worthy of its own name. The cliff is sheer, steep, with a couple obvious crack lines. There are two really good 5.10s here, one trad and one sport.

Lost T2 is similar to Green Lake Cliff in size and shape—it's about 60' tall, 50' wide, and has a flat, open base. The rock quality is good.

Directions: Follow the approach to McMartin Cliff. At 30 min when the trail levels, and just past a boggy section 18T 538422 4790951, turn right (east) and walk 300' through open, flat woods to where the terrain rises abruptly. Continue 300' steeply uphill to reach the cliff at 35 min 18T 538565 4791022. There is presently flagging on the approach trail, and the various intersections are clearly marked.

Cedar Dog   5.8+   G   45'   

Start: On the left side of the cliff, just before the terrain rises uphill to the left, at a large boulder below a crack on a rounded arête.

P1 5.8+ G: Follow a left-leaning crack up to the rounded arête, then straight up the crack on the arête to a fixed anchor. Climbing directly to the anchor is pumpy and made easier by stepping right to a rest. 45'

Gear: Thin gear plus draws.

Welcome to America   5.10d   G   55'   

The route ascends the most obvious feature on the cliff—a full-height, left-leaning crack, reminiscent of the Spider's Web.

Start: 20' right of Cedar Dog at a left-leaning crack that runs to the top of the cliff.

P1 5.10d G: Go up the left-leaning crack to an overlap 10' up. Continue up the crack to a fixed anchor. The crux comes at mid-height where the crack pinches down requiring some face climbing on the left. 55'

Locust Posts   5.11d   G   60'   

Start: 10' right of Welcome to America, below a V-groove that begins 7' up.

P1 5.11d G: Go straight up the face to a fixed anchor at the top. 60'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Airtime   5.10a   G   50'   

Start: 4' right of Locusts Posts, just left of mossy rock, and just left of a good, head-high horizontal.

P1 5.10 G: Go straight up to a slight V-groove capped by an overlap. Move right and up to another V-groove and follow this to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Quickdraws.

Public Service   5.8+   G   50'

Start: 10' right of Airtime, near the right end of the cliff just before the terrain begins to climb up right, below a left-leaning fingercrack.

P1 5.8+ G: Climb the fingercrack to a bolt. Make a big move up and left (crux, easier if tall), then straight up past two right-leaning cracks to a crack in a left-rising overlap. Move left to a fixed anchor (shared with Airtime). 50'


Otter Lake Cliff

Location: North of Caroga Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: South

Height: 45'

Approach: 30 min, moderate

Quality: ***

Description: Otter Lake Cliff is a small cliff that sits on the lower slopes of Pine Mountain facing Otter Lake. It's a small cliff, but what it lacks in height it more than makes up for in difficulty. The rock is clean, compact, steep, and crimpy. There are a number of steep, technical faces and several large roofs.

The base is level, open, and pleasant. Unfortunately, the cliff seeps and takes some time to dry out after rain. The cliff is 300' wide, but all the climbs are clustered together in a 150'-wide section.

In the center of the cliff is a right-facing corner that forms a deep alcove; the route White Arête is located here. On the left end of the cliff is a huge, 7'-deep roof 6' above the ground. Tucked under the right side of this roof is a large, flat-topped boulder known as the Belay Boulder.

Justin Sanford has prepared this topo.

The Pine Mountain area is a major hunting destination. During hunting season, it is recommended that climbers wear orange and be respectful of hunters in the area. There is a frequent "watching post" for deer on top of Otter Lake Cliff.

Directions: From the triangle intersection of NY 10 and NY 29A (0.0 mile), drive south on NY 10 (NY 10 is combined with NY 29 E at this point). At 2.0 miles, turn left onto Green Lake Road, a dirt road; the lake is right next to the road here. At 2.5 miles, turn left onto a smaller dirt road marked with a several small signs: "Kane MT", "Fire Tower", and "Parking Area", as well as a giant boulder with "Kane MT" painted on it. At 2.6 miles reach the trailhead parking 18T 540265 4780943.

At the north end of the parking area is the trail to Kane Mt, and another to Stuart Lake (0.0 min). Continue on the dirt road (towards Stuart Lake) for 200' to a three-way intersection (left is the Pine Lake X-C Ski Trail, straight is the continuation of the dirt road, and right goes to Stuart Lake). Go left onto the Pine Lake X-C Ski Trail marked with yellow discs.

Follow the ski trail (a bit muddy) to a large cairn on the right, reached at 4 min. From here, veer off the trail 45º to the right, heading towards the sound of water; this is the outlet of Otter Lake. Once you reach the water, follow this north, and eventually the stream will merge into the lake, reached at 11 min. Continue northeast along the shoreline of the lake following a good path through open hemlock forest, sometimes right next to the shore, while other times inland 50'. Eventually, but not quite at the north end of the lake, you'll find a large cairn (and some flagging) 18T 540775 4782018 about 15' from the water, reached at 21 min. Go 40' beyond the cairn, then head directly north away from the lake, at first uphill, then level, across a stream, and up to the cliff, reached at 30 min 18T 540673 4782428.

Porcupine Prelude   5.10a   G   40'   

Start: At the left end of the cliff is a huge, 7'-deep roof 6' above the ground. Begin in the center of the roof below a right-facing flake in the face above the roof.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) Pull up the flake to get established on the wall above the roof. Follow the right-leaning flake and crack to its end, then up past a bulge to the left side of a roof. Pull over this to a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 5.9 G: To avoid the strenuous pull at the start, begin as for Harvest Moon, stick-clip the first bolt of Porcupine Prelude. Climb up Harvest Moon for 8', then traverse left on good holds to the normal route.

Gear: Draws plus gear for the right-leaning flake.

Harvest Moon   5.11a   G   40'   

The first ascent was at 1:30 AM by headlamp and lanterns.

Start: On top of (and on the left side of) the Belay Boulder.

P1 5.11a G: Climb straight up the face to the second highest roof. (V1) Traverse right under the roof, then pull over the roof and up the face to a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 5.11a G: Step left and go up to the highest roof. Traverse left, then pull over the overhang to the fixed anchor on Porcupine Prelude.

Gear: Draws.

Roof Traverse   5.10b   G   55'   

Start: On the right side of the Belay Boulder.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up and right on a ramp to the lowest roof. Work your way up and left on the underside of the stepped roofs to (V1) the highest roof. Traverse left, then pull over the overhang to the fixed anchor on Porcupine Prelude. 55'

V1 Roof Direct 5.10a G: Combines the Roof Traverse with the finish of Harvest Moon. At the second highest roof, traverse right under the roof, then pull over the roof and up the face to a fixed anchor.

Gear: Draws.

Rubber KnumbChuck   5.10a   G   40'   

Start: Same as Roof Traverse.

P1 5.10a G: Climb up the ramp to the lowest roof (as for Roof Traverse). Step right and break through the low roof onto the face above. Up the face to a fixed anchor. 40'

Gear: Draws.

Pandora's Box   5.11a   G   45'   

Start: At a 5'-tall right-facing corner 15' right of the Belay Boulder.

P1 5.11a G: Climb up horizontals to the highest ledge, then up the face to some shallow left-facing corners, through an overlap, and up to a fixed anchor. 45'

Gear: Draws plus gear in the low cracks.

White Arête   5.10d   G   30'   

Start: In the back of the depression formed by the huge right-facing corner that divides the cliff, a few feet right of the corner.

P1 5.10d G: Work up an overhanging wall to a clean face and small arête in the back of the depression to a fixed anchor. 30'

Gear: Draws.

Independence Pass   5.10d   G   30'   

Start: On the right side of the depression in the center of the cliff, 10' right of White Arête.

P1 5.10d G: (V1) Boulder up the bulging black face to a good jug. Mantel this, then up the black face to a fixed anchor. 30'

V1 5.9 G: Avoid the crimpy start by starting 10' left and working up right to the good jug.

Gear: Draws.

Approach Shoe Assassin   5.10d   G   40'   

Start: Just right of the huge right-facing corner and depression that divides the cliff is a pile of flat-topped boulders. Begin on top of these boulders, 10' right of Independence Pass.

P1 5.10d G: Climb up a right-leaning flake to a roof. Pull the roof, then up the steep face to a fixed anchor. 40'

Gear: Draws.

Crimp Scampi   5.11a   PG   40'   

Watch the second clip.

Start: 20' right of Approach Shoe Assassin, and 10' right of a pile of flat-topped boulders, on top of a small boulder just right of a 4'-tall, left-facing, right-leaning corner that begins 4' up.

P1 5.11a PG: Crimp up the face on edges and incuts to a large horizontal (gear). Over this to a fixed anchor at the top. 40'

Gear: Draws, plus gear below the fixed anchor.

Dukes of Hazard   5.11b   G   40'   

Start: 15' right of Crimp Scampi.

P1 5.11b G: Up the orange face to a good horizontal 8' up. Continue straight up the face, over a bulge, to a fixed anchor at the top. 40'

Gear: Draws.


Green Lake Cliff

Location: North of Caroga Lake, accessed from NY 10

Aspect: West

Height: 40'

Approach: 5 min, easy

Quality: ***

Description: This small cliff is one of the many scattered through the woods in this region. It's steep, about 75' wide, has excellent rock and a communal, open cliff base. The routes have seen very little traffic, so there will inevitably be adjustments on grades as consensus develops.

Justin Sanford has prepared this topo.

The cliff is known to locals as Target Rock, as it has been used for generations as a backdrop for gun sight adjustment. In fact, the entire Pine Mountain area is a major hunting destination. During hunting season, it is recommended that climbers wear orange and be respectful of hunters in the area.

This cliff is presently the southernmost roped climbing in the Adirondack Park.

Directions: From the triangle intersection of NY 10 and NY 29A (0.0 mile), drive south on NY 10 (NY 10 is combined with NY 29 E at this point). At 2.0 miles, turn left onto Green Lake Road, a dirt road; the lake is right next to the road here. The road follows the shoreline around the northeast end of the lake. At 2.9 miles reach the end of the road and park at an unpaved turnaround loop in the road 18T 0540387 4780442. This is next to the last camp on the road, and the owner has given permission to park on the road, just make sure there is room for other vehicles to turn around.

Walk back on Green Lake Road for 150' yards to a stream that crosses under the road in a culvert, across the road from camp #270. Leave the road and walk east, following the left side of the stream for 300 yards to the cliff, about 5 minutes from the road 18T 540755 4780482. As you approach, veer slightly to the north away from the stream, as the cliff is about 180' north of the stream.

Vertical Limit   5.10a   G   35'   

Start: At the left end of the cliff is an offwidth crack that runs the full height of the cliff. Begin 4' right of the offwidth crack at a thin seam in black rock that begins at chest height.

P1 5.10a G: Follow the seam, which becomes a left-facing edge, then changes back to a seam again. There is a fixed anchor at the top of the seam. 35'

Gear: Draws plus some gear.

Vision Quest   5.11d   G   40'   

Start: 8' right of Vertical Limit below parallel seams in orange rock. There is a 4"-wide pocket at waist height.

P1 5.11d G: Stick clip, then make a technical boulder problem to gain easier crack climbing above with great gear. Step right at the top to a fixed anchor (shared with Adrenaline Surge). 40'

Adrenaline Surge   5.10a   G   40'   

Start: At a right-facing corner in the center of the cliff, 8'' right of Vision Quest.

P1 5.10a G: (V1) Climb good juggy holds until you can access the large jug on the face left of the corner. From the jug, (V2) go straight up the face to a fixed anchor. 40'

V1 Ghost Rider 5.10d G : Start as for Vision Quest. Follow vertical seams trending slighting right up the face to two incut triangle holds. From here, a big move gets you to the large jug of the normal route.

V2 Stretch Armstrong 5.10b G : Traverse left to access the upper crack of Vision Quest. A hand-heel match on the jug allows you to slap sidepulls out left to make it over to the crack (easier for tall climbers).

Gear: Draws plus gear.

The Invisible Man   5.10b   G   40'   

Start: Same as Adrenaline Surge.

P1 5.10b G: Climb good juggy holds up the corner system to its top, then follow a crack system trending up and right to a fixed anchor. 40'

Gear: Standard rack.

The Incredible Hulk   5.12d   G   40'   

A stout route worthy of a five minute hike any day; basically a 40'-tall V6 boulder problem.

Start: 3' right of the right-facing corner of Adrenaline Surge, at a steep, black face with an overhang 10' up.

P1 5.12d G: Go up the steep, black face to an overhang. Work over the overhang and follow a right-leaning seam that becomes a short, shallow, right-facing corner. At its top, work straight up the face to a bulge and a fixed anchor just above. 40'

Gear: Draws.

Flight of the Concord   5.10a   G   35'   

Start: Right of center, at a prominent right-leaning crack that goes through an overhang 10' up.

P1 5.10a G: Step up into a slot, then follow a crack through an overhang to a triangular alcove. Continue up the crack to a fixed anchor (shared with The Toxic Avenger). 35'

Gear: Draws plus gear.

The Toxic Avenger   5.10a   G   35'   

Start: 8' right of Flight of the Concord at a seam with a black rock 2' to its right.

P1 5.10a G: Follow a vertical crack up the face to two ceilings, the upper of which has a downward-pointing tooth. Above the ceilings, work up and left to a fixed anchor (shared with Flight of the Concord). 35'

Gear: Standard rack.


West Canada Cliff

Location: North of Hoffmeister, access from NY 8

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 200'

Approach: 2 hr 5 min, difficult

Quality: *

Description: The West Canada Cliff rises above the South Branch of West Canada Creek in a very remote section of the park. At 200' tall and nearly 1/2 mile wide, it's the largest cliff yet explored on the western side of the park. The views from the cliff are open and nice but somewhat limited in distance, since the cliff sits low on the mountain.

With only 3 routes, the potential for more routes is enormous. Just north of this cliff and facing the river is Eagle Bluff, totally unexplored.

West Canada Cliff is intimidating with acres of steep, clean faces, roofs, large corners, huge arêtes, and some cracks. Almost all the rock is near vertical with very few low-angle slabs. There is one, very imposing, bottom-to-top wet chimney, left of center. There are many enormous corners and arêtes; the most prominent left-facing corner has a large, north-facing, jet-black wall with a clear open area at its base, the bombardment zone for falling ice, and the only open, communal area along the cliff base. This is the Black Wall and it the key for locating the routes.

The cliff is located in the West Canada Lake Wilderness, the second largest wilderness area in the park, and contains very few trails, providing some of the most remote and hard-to-reach areas in the park. T Lake Falls, the highest waterfall in the park, is located near here, about 1 mile further upstream from the cliff.

Directions: The approach herein is from the south, from NY 8 near Hoffmeister. This is one of the approaches for T Lake Falls, and is also described in Barbara McMarttin and Bill Ingersoll's Discover the West Central Adirondacks. It's quite long and arduous with some moderate route finding and bushwhacking. You can save weight by bringing a water purifier, as there is water at the fisherman's camp 30 minutes before the cliff, and there's a trickle running through the talus below the cliff.

From the intersection of NY 8 and NY 365 (0.0 mile), which is just east of Hinckley Reservoir, drive east on NY 8 (towards Speculator). At 11.5 miles turn left on Mountain Home Road. This intersection is 1.5 miles west of Hoffmeister, a settlement that is somewhat easy to miss, although there is a post office.

At 13.5 miles the pavement ends at a snow plow turnaround with many posted signs. Not to worry, as these are to prevent you from parking and blocking the turnaround. Continue straight on a one-lane dirt road, currently suitable for low-clearance 2WD vehicles (although this could change, especially early season); there is one small creek crossing that isn't a problem. At 14.6 miles reach a fork where a logging road branches to the left; there is a small forest service sign on a tree. Take the left fork and immediately find a place to park 18T 0525192 4806088; there is room for just a couple cars. (If you miss the fork, going straight leads to a ford across South Branch of West Canada Creek.)

From the parking area (0 hr 0 min), hike on the logging road to reach a barricade at 1 min; just beyond is a sign-in register and foot bridge across Mad Tom Brook. After this, you're on your own, as there are no markers or official trail improvements. Follow the abandoned logging road, at first uphill, then over rolling terrain. The logging road is straight, wide and easy to follow, but very muddy in sections, even in a dry summer. At 55 min the road narrows to a trail, but is still easy to follow. At 1 hr reach the South Branch of West Canada Creek and cross it 18T 0528071 4809054. This "creek" is actually a river, and drains more watershed than most New York State rivers; in high water, the crossing is treacherous and extra shoes are recommended. In low water, you can simply rock hop across.

Once across the river, follow a trail upstream along the east bank of the river. There is some flagging, but don't count on it. After a couple minutes the path veers away from the river and at 1 hr 8 min you reach a vague fork in the trail. (Going straight leads east to Twin Lakes Outlet.) Take the left fork, which is totally overgrown at first, but opens up and becomes a better-defined trail very quickly. In addition to some flagging, there are occasional markings on trees—red paint spots and red, diamond-shaped aluminum markers. The path is well-defined in sections, while other sections are completely obliterated by deadfall. At 1 hr 27 min you reach the river again, and at 1 hr 37 min you reach a fork in the path with a view of a very large boggy area of the river just beyond (this is the beginning of a very long stretch of meandering stillwater). The left fork leads 150' to a fisherman's camp and fire ring 18T 0529700 4810325 on the shore of the river, where you can see acres of flooded alders. If you wander west out into the alders, you can see the top of the cliff to the southeast.

From the fisherman's camp, bushwhack uphill on a bearing of 130º. The forest is mostly open and easy going until you're directly below the cliff, which is choked with large talus. Arrive at the cliff base at 2 hr 5 min 18T 0530359 4810030.

Call of the Wild   5.6   PG   175'   

An exploratory, varied, and somewhat dirty line, that creatively links protectable features—slabs, corners, and cracks. With a little effort the line could be straightened and improved. Cleaning on lead, the first ascent was a 3.5 hour marathon.

Start: 50' left of the north-facing black wall is a wide chimney formed by a large left-facing corner and an orange tower. Begin 25' downhill and left of the chimney at a clean slab with a crack on the right.

P1 5.6 PG: Up the face, then move right to the crack for gear. Reach a ledge 40' up, then angle left to a right-facing corner with a balanced block on top. Continue angling left to an inverted V-groove. Up this to a ledge with a large bush. Move left to a vertical crack system, which is followed to the top at a giant pine tree on the very edge of the cliff, clearly visible from the base of the cliff. 175'

Gear: Standard rack plus an extra set of cams to 3". Double ropes helpful.

Descent: Rappel 150' from the large pine.


West Canada Cliff:The Black Wall

This north-facing, black wall has rock that is pressure-washed clean with a pleasant, open, flat-rock area below. Since it's the only black, north-facing wall, and has the only open area along the entire cliff base, it should be easy to locate. It's right of center on the cliff.

There are two routes on the wall that share a fixed anchor. After climbing one of the routes, the other can be toproped from this anchor.

It is possible (but strongly discouraged) to access the fixed anchor at the top of the routes by traversing in from the left, starting from a ledge that you can walk onto (and take incredible photos from). This traverse route, called Sketchy Shit Suck, goes at about 5.7, and is wet, loose, terrifying and dangerous.

Sausage Science   5.11a   G   75'   

Clean, elegant, and pumpy climbing with excellent holds and delicious moves.

Start: Centered on the Black Wall, 10' left of the arête on top of a block.

P1 5.11a G: Go straight up the face to a good horizontal 12' up, then use two tiny pockets to reach the next horizontal. Move right 5' to the base of a thin fingercrack and follow this with increasing difficulty to the top. There is a fixed anchor on a large ledge. 75'

Gear: Draws plus 1 ea #2 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot, medium nuts.

Cowboy Up   5.9   G   75'   

Incredible position, great moves, good rock, and excellent photo opportunities. This route and its neighbor Sausage Science make the approach worthwhile...almost.

Start: At the right side of the north-facing, black wall, below the toe of the arête.

P1 5.9 G: Move up a few feet to a block, then directly up the arête and wall on the left to a good horizontal crack at two-thirds height. Traverse right around the arête to a short left-facing corner, then up over two bulges to the top. The fixed anchor is shared with Sausage Science.

Gear: Draws plus 1 ea #2 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, #0 TCU, medium nuts.


Beaver Brook

Beavers Taste Like Wood   5.12b   G   75'   

[Right of route #6, page 344]

An excellent, hard line—bouldery, dynamic, balancey, technical, and straight up hard!

Start: 30' right of Good to the Last Drop in a cave-like feature with big holds. You can also begin a little to the left and traverse to the first bolt.

P1 5.12b G: Stick-clip the first bolt. Make bouldery moves out of the cave, then up to a left-facing shoulder. Follow this to its top, then go up the technical face on small holds to a small overhang. Pull this and gun for the fixed anchor at the top. 75'


Deadwater

 The route Desperado [Route #13, page 140] is considered hard for the grade.

 The route Time Bomb [Route #14, page 140] is indeed living up to its name, having dropped large blocks recently (fall 2012); no change in grade. There is an unstable flake before the roof, and more loose rock at the very top. It needs some testing with a hammer and crow bar before it can be recommended. Make sure the area is clear of spectators before attempting this on lead.

 Due to an added cell tower near Exit 29, Deadwater now has reasonable cell phone coverage (at least with Verizon).


Deadwater: MT Wall

Walk left 30' from the Left End (the location of the routes Doc Holiday and WISWIG) to a pair of low-angle arêtes; this is the MT Wall.

Hoedown   5.8   G   70'   

Worthwhile, although not quite as good as Incognito to the right.

Start: At the toe of the left-hand arête, 12' left of Incognito.

P1 5.8 G: Up the arête to where it steepens. Move left to a stance, then back right to a crack on the arête. Continue up the arête to a fixed anchor at the top. 70'

Gear: To 2".

Dig It   5.8   G   70'   

This is the corner between the two arêtes. It has recently been cleaned, and is now quite nice.

Start: At the top of a dirt cone in the corner between the two arêtes of Hoedown and Incognito.

P1 5.8 G: Up the corner to a roof. (V1) Reach left and pull over the roof, then follow a finger- and hand-crack in large corner to a fixed anchor. 70'

V1 5.10+ G: Climb the roof directly following a flared seam (deliberately avoiding the bigger holds to the left) to join the handcrack above.

Bear   5.11a   TR   70'

Climbs the face between Dig It and Incognito through a roof to the fixed anchor on Incognito.

Incognito   5.8   G   70'   

Beautiful rock and great protection; a great addition to the moderate routes at Deadwater.

Start: Walk 30' left of Doc Holiday to a pair of arêtes, 12' apart. Begin at the tow of the right-hand arête.

P1 5.8 G: Boulder up the arête to a ledge. Continue up the arête to a ceiling. Break through this into a right-facing corner, step right, then climb the face to a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: To 2".


Deadwater Way Left

Location: North Hudson, at the toe of Catamount Mountain, just south of the Deadwater Cliff.

Aspect: South

Height: 50' to 90'

Approach: 10 minutes, easy

Quality: *

Description: While not physically connected to Deadwater, which is on Potter Hill, Deadwater Way Left is on neighboring Catamount Mountain and is best described as part of the Deadwater group. The cliff offers steep crack climbs with potential for several more routes. The cliff also features one of the larger horizontal roofs in the Adirondacks, split by a razor cut finger crack, as yet unclimbed.

The cliff is about 300' wide. It has a shorter section on its left end, a higher middle section featuring the obvious very large roof about 60' up and a very sheer wall below this to the right, and then lower-angled rock on the right end. It's fairly easy to hike up or down around the climber's left end of the cliff.

Directions: Park as for Deadwater [page 134]. The herd path to Deadwater begins on the east side of Route 9, about 100' north of the parking area, and goes northwest. The approach for Deadwater Way Left begins about 50' south of the normal Deadwater path, directly across Route 9 from the north end of the parking area, and goes generally west. (A very short way into the woods, a sign clarifies that this is not the approach for Deadwater.)

Follow the path easily through open woods, and soon reach the brook that drains from between Potter Hill and Catamount Mountain. Cross this brook, then swing slightly southwest and climb into a small valley with open hardwoods. The cliff appears on the right soon after climbing into this valley 18T 606738 4879012.

Do You Feel Lucky   5.9   G   50'   

Start: At a striking fingercrack that shoots up the middle of the short, gray wall at the left end of the cliff.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the crack. Many face holds remove the sting of the often-flared tips crack. 50'

Gear: To #1 Camalot; tiny cams are helpful in the slightly flaring crack above.

Sister Sarah   5.9+   TR   70'

At the right end of the short gray wall 50' right of Do You Feel Lucky, the base of the cliff steps down about 15' to a lower base. Three parallel cracks, about 6 feet apart, rise from this lower base. Begin at the left-hand of the three cracks. Climb the crack. The low roof–block is shared with the middle crack. The protection for leading would be R.

Mule Project

An open project, this is the middle crack, just right of Sister Sarah. There is a fixed anchor on a tree at the top of this route.

Bonus Mule Project

Another open project begins at the base of the left-facing corner–slab, just right of the right-hand of three cracks (the left of which is Sister Sarah). This is directly under the left end of the big roof. Climb up and left into the crack line. The crack becomes a left-facing corner, and then transitions to a right-facing corner capped by a small roof. Step left around the roof to finish.

Josey Wales   5.6   G   70'

Start: At broken rock 8' right of Bonus Mule.

P1 5.6 G: Climb up and traverse right across 3rd class broken rock to a right-facing corner with a huge block sitting in it, under the right end of the roof. Go up the corner on the right side of the block, step right around the right end of the roof, and finish straight up. (A more direct start for this route would be better, but much harder.)

Every Which Way and Loose   5.5   G   55'   

Start: 75' right of the right end of the roof, at the end of the sheer section, is a complex blocky area with easier climbing. Begin at the base of the blocky area at a rounded arête with a small chimney behind it.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the rounded arête and step right to the blocky rock. Climb delicately up to a fixed anchor.

Spaghetti Western   5.6   TR   45'

Begin at the base of a low-angled rounded arête, with obvious recent rockfall from its base, 35' right of Every Which Way and Loose. This route is a "forested scramble". Climb the arête to finish at a small platform about 6' below a very large tree with a fixed anchor. Walking up the slippery pine straw to the tree may be the crux.


Mount Tom Cliff

Location: In the Moose River Plains, south of Inlet, accessed from NY 28

Aspect: South

Height: 200'

Quality:

Approach: 10 min, easy

Description: Mount Tom Cliff is an easily-accessible wilderness crag, situated near a road on the southern slope of the multi-summited Mount Tom. It's 300' wide and 100' tall, similar to Bald Mountain in Old Forge [page 575], but much steeper. There are potential for a few moderate climbs, but on the whole this is a very steep cliff with potential for difficult routes—steep faces and a few crack lines. The bottom of the cliff is easy to negotiate while the top has some thickets and dense vegetation along the edge. To reach the top, scramble around the left end.

Directions: From the post office in the town of Inlet, set the odometer to 0.0 and drive east on NY 28 (toward Blue Mountain Lake) for 0.8 mile, then turn right at the fire station onto Limekiln Lake Road (CR 14). There is a sign for Moose River Wild Forest and the Limekiln Lake Entrance at this intersection. At 2.7 miles, turn left onto a dirt road marked as the Limekiln Lake Entrance and drive 100 yards to the registration booth 18T 516976 4840878. From here the road can be rough, but still suitable for a low-clearance 2WD vehicle, and marked with diamond-shaped mile markers. At 7.3 miles, you'll reach a three-way intersection; turn left following the sign to the South Branch of the Moose River. At 9.5 miles reach camp site #68 on the left 18T 522936 4836970 (this is 0.1 mile before mile marker 7).

Standing in the road in front of the campsite (and looking over the outhouse) you can glimpse the cliff through the trees. It is possible to walk directly from the campsite to the cliff, but this involves navigating a swamp and huge talus. Instead, walk back on the road 300', then walk due north to the cliff 18T 522917 4836965, staying left of the talus and uphill of the swampy area. Hiking time is about 10 minutes.

Spooky Tom   5.5   G   180'

An exploratory route, so expect the typical vegetation and loose rock.

Start: Locate a 100' wide, black, overhanging wall, which is left of center. On the left side are two right-facing open book corners. Begin below the left-hand open book at a right-leaning offwidth crack that opens to a chimney 25' up.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the offwidth crack for 20' to where it widens to a chimney, then move right to an arête and climb up to the first ledge. Move back left carefully and step across the offwidth chimney (avoid large loose blocks). Make a long traverse left, then move up ledges to the top. Watch rope drag. 180'


Avalanche Lake

 A large triangular flake has fallen from under the left side of the roof on P2 of California Flake [Route #2, page 415]. It is reportedly slightly more difficult now, around 5.10a.

To Pass Or Not To Pass   5.9   X   60'

Start: At the height of the pass, just past the avalanche debris, at a small cliff on the left side of the trail below an obvious zigzag crack.

P1 5.9 X: Climb the crack to a little bush, traverse right, then head up and slightly left, following the path of least resistance until the bush is straight under you. Unlock the exit sequence (crux) to gain a larger ledge with a system of exit cracks. Belay from the trees. 60'

Descent: Walk off to the left through avalanche debris.


Avalanche Lake: West Face of Mt. Colden

Wish You Were Here   5.10a   PG   210'

[Left of route #5, page 417]

Named in memory of the day, and for climbers who are no longer with us.

Start: Approach as for the Trap Dike [page 418] and continue (climber's) left along the shore to the Matrix Wall. Wade across (knee deep) to the next tree island (the one with the route Timeline, and the winter route Adirondike). Begin on the (climber's) left side of the tree island, where the land disappears into the water.

P1 5.10a PG: Walk five feet left on boulders in the water to a faint rib that turns into a small right-facing edge–flake. Up this, step right to a right-leaning crack, then move up to a left-leaning, right-facing flake system. Move up the flake to a thin horizontal crack, traverse 5' left, then move up to a left-leaning fingercrack and follow this 15' to an alcove. Place small cams in a right-rising horizontal, then mantel onto a sloping ledge (crux). Move up and left along a handrail past a small cedar. Face moves lead to a hand- and fist-crack; up this excellent feature for 15' to a ledge with birch trees. 130'

P2 5.6 G: Scramble through the trees to the base of a wide crack. Up the wide crack for 50' (wide gear necessary). At the end of the crack angle up and right 30' to an anchor on cedars. 80'

Descent: Rappel 200' down and right to a cedar, then another short rappel to the start of the route.

Trap Dike   4th class   2000'   

Like many of the backcountry slides, this one was changed considerably by Hurricane Irene on August 28, 2011. In addition to the devastating floods that hit the region, the landscape of the backcountry was significantly changed, including the west face of Mt. Colden. A new slide was created from the Mt. Colden summit to the upper Trap Dike. The debris scoured the dike, stripping it clean of vegetation and dumping the resultant slurry into a debris cone that extends halfway across Avalanche Lake. Not only did this create a new—and most excellent—slide climb, but it improved the exposed alpine feel of the dike itself, making this modest scramble feel like a "big mountain" route.

Enter the dike as normal [Route #7, page 418] and climb past the second waterfall (crux). The easiest climbing is in the water. There are no longer any trees, if you need a rope, you'll also need gear to establish anchors. Above this, the walls of the dike are now totally visible and obvious, and you can easily find the traditional place to exit the dike onto the Colden Slide to the right. For the new slide, continue up the dike to its top where a clean, white slide enters on the right. The rock is beautiful, white, dimpled, and awesome, if not a little sandy on the feet. Unlike the Colden Slide, this new slide is unbroken—no tree islands or other features; imagine an endless parking lot turned on an incline. There are three bulges where care is needed, the steepest at the very top. From there, walk 40' up to the trail, then 100' right to the summit.


Barkeater

 The route Coy Dog [route #32, page 286] is considered hard for its grade. Perhaps 5.10b is more accurate.


Castle Rock

Location: Blue Mountain Lake, accessed from the combined NY 30 / NY 28N

Aspect: South

Height: 120'

Quality: *

Approach: 30 min, easy

Description: Castle Rock is a very popular mini-summit that sits above the northwest shore of Blue Mountain Lake. There's a DEC trail to the cliff and open-rock summit where there are views in all directions, especially of Blue Mountain Lake.

Despite the excellent rock quality, the roped climbing potential is small, as the cliff is broken up into ledges and short discontinuous faces. But it's a great destination for scrambling in the house-sized boulders that make up the lower section of the cliff. There are passageways into hidden rooms, 4th class chimneys that lead through holes to perches, and many isolated, hard-to-reach ledges with views and privacy. This is a great destination if you're in the area and need a half-day diversion.

Directions: From Blue Mountain Lake, at the intersection of NY 28 and NY 30 (0.0 mile), follow the combined NY 30 / NY 28N north (towards Long Lake). At 0.6 mile, turn left onto Maple Lodge Road, also signposted for "Minnowbrook Conference Center." Follow the road to its end at 1.7 miles; there are signs for trailhead parking on the left, and there's a DEC kiosk on the right with signs for Castle Rock and Upper Sargent Pond 18T 0544108 4857908.

From the kiosk (0 hr 0 min), follow the trail, which at first is actually a dirt road that provides access to more private homes, marked with red discs. Stay to the right at all intersections. At 7 min the trail splits; straight (red discs) goes the long way to Castle Rock and Sargent Pond, and left (yellow discs) goes to Castle Rock the short way. Go left and cross a bridge. At 16 min, reach an intersection with a trail that goes left to the lake (blue discs); continue straight following the yellow discs. At 30 min the trail reaches the cliff at an amphitheater where you walk between the cliff and a large boulder below an enormous roof, 20' deep, and 15' up 18T 542780 4858188. This amphitheater is a popular spot for scrambling and bouldering.

I Can't Believe It's Not Butter   5.11b   G   50'   

This snaking finger- and hand-crack looks 5.8, but don't be deceived, as it's definitely not as advertised; it is a beast. Great jams and fingerlocks, but sustained with absolutely no feet. Use plenty of gear because the route leans left, and the ground also rises to the left. Awaits a redpoint.

Start: This route is located on the west face of the summit block. From the summit overlooking Blue Mountain Lake, scramble west down a slab, then back to the base of the wall. Begin in a shallow right-facing corner at the base of a snaking crack.

P1 5.11b G: Go up the corner for 6', then hand traverse left in the crack to a fist-sized pod where the crack turns vertical and pinches to fingers. Up this (crux) to where the crack snakes left. Make a big move left to a decent foot rest, then up the easier handcrack to the top. 50'

Gear: A few medium to large nuts; cams from small to 1", doubles in the 0.5" to 1".

Enjoy the Little Things   5.4   G (5.1 R)   120'   

"You can't spend all your time worrying about where your next Twinkie is going to come from, so follow rule #32 and enjoy the little things." Easy climbing, clean rock, and great views.

Start: The route begins on the highest, forested ledge above the huge roof (that you walk under on the hiking trail). There are many hidden chimneys and passageways that link up to this ledge. The easiest is to walk 30' left from the giant roof to a person-sized slot (that leads into a hidden room). Instead of going through the slot, walk 15' left and scramble up a chimney to a forested ledge below a slab. From the upper right side of this ledge, make a puzzling move up another slot to a higher forested ledge. Begin at a shallow, right-facing corner with a good crack. Another landmark is a very long, right-leaning, right-facing, fern-filled flake that begins 2' to the right.

P1 5.4 G (5.1 R): Up the crack in the shallow corner to a good horizontal on the left. Continue up the corner to a good stance at its top. Step left and friction up a clean slab to gain a left-rising, shallow blueberry ramp–ledge. Move left 6' on the ramp–ledge to an unlikely bulge and pull over using an amazing bucket. Step right and follow good jugs to a tree ledge. 120'

Gear: To 3".

Descent: Contour 75' left to the base of a slab that sits directly below the summit viewpoint. Scramble up and right around this slab to the summit, then follow the hiking trail back to the base.


Dutton Mountain

This area is still being explored and the potential for rock routes seems limited. Even so, at least one route has been reported here.

Directions: From Minerva at the intersection of NY 28N and CR 37, follow 14th Road (CR 37) west 3.0 miles to where the road makes a sharp turn the southwest and crosses a major stream. Find a yellow pipe that marks the state land boundary, then follow the property boundary northwest to Dutton Mountain, about 0.6 miles. The cliff faces southwest, and is on the southwest-most corner of the mountain 18T 577244 4848516.

Lunatic Fringe   5.5   PG   120'

This route was climbed two days before several new ice routes on a cliff 1/4 mile to the west.

Start: Left of center, below a dirty open book.

P1 5.5 PG: Climb the open book, then up through a small overhang. Continue up a low-angle offwidth crack to a horizontal crack below a steep bulge. Rail left to another open book (presently has a tiny birch at your feet), traverse farther left to an outside corner, then up easier corners and pine-needle-covered slabs to belay off the first secure tree you can find. 120'


Cat Mountain: West Crag

This cliff sits 100' left of the trail, about 5 min before the summit, just before the final steep rise to the summit 18T 510760 4883168. There is a small cairn marking the turnoff. The cliff ranges between 40'–70' tall and a few hundred feet wide, with reportedly good potential for more routes.

Catnip   5.7   G   70'

Start: Below a triangular flake in a flared corner with a crack that widens to meet a triangular roof 20' up. There is an attractive finger- and hand-crack about 20' to the left.

P1 5.7 G: Up crack in corner to the triangular roof. Continue up the crack to the top of a large flake. Step left and ascend an unpleasant offwidth to a treed ledge below a slab. Avoid the slab by tree-pulling to the top. 70'

Descent: Walk right.

Gear: Large cams helpful.


Cat Mountain: Main Face

This cliff 18T 510716 4882920 sits below the summit cliff and above Cat Mountain Pond. [The cliff is mentioned on page 592, second paragraph under the Cat Mountain heading.] The cliff has seen little exploration (i.e., dirty, loose rock), but reportedly has good potential for climbing.

Directions: Either walk southwest from the base of Catatonic and rappel, or (preferably) bushwhack north from Cat Mountain Pond 18T 511032 4882508. (To reach Cat Mountain Pond, from the third trail junction, follow the trail toward Cowhorn Junction; the pond will be on your left within 0.5 mile.)

Scaredy Cat   5.7   G   50'

Start: Locate a left-facing corner, on top of which rises a sharp-edged, right-leaning flake in light-colored rock. Walk left, scramble up onto a ledge, then move right to the base of the left-facing corner.

P1 5.7 G: Work up the corner and follow the right-leaning flake to its top. Move right to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: Standard rack with many long runners.


Charcoal Kiln Quarry

The Charcoal Kiln Quarry [page 626] has seen a surge of route development.

 When approaching from the clearing [described on page 626], aim for the far right side of the cliff and pick up a good herd path. This avoids the tangle of trees, rocks, and garbage directly in front of the cliff.

Capstone   5.10+   TR   65'

Begin on the left side of the quarry just before the terrain drops down left, on a ledge below three small, clean overhangs. Climb over the overhangs, then step right and join A Cold Draft...Horse to a fixed anchor just left of a large perched boulder on the skyline at the top of the cliff.

A Cold Draft...Horse   5.6   G   65'

Start: Below the right end of three small overhangs, right of Capstone, where the ledge merges into the ground, at a drill-tube in black rock at head height.

P1 5.6 G: Follow the crack above the drill tube to a short right-facing corner. Up the corner past a small ceiling to another short corner, then up easier terrain to a fixed anchor shared with Capstone. 65'

Burke's Path   5.4   G   65'

Start: In the center of the quarry, at the height of land, is the beginning of a long, right-rising ramp that goes to the top of the cliff. Begin at the lower left end of this ramp.

P1 5.4 G: Move up some ledges, then step left to the base of a shallow, right-facing open book. Go straight up (V1) staying left of the bolts to a ledge with small birches. Go up and right to a fixed anchor at the top of a cliff. 65'

V1 Learning the Steps 5.5 G: Staying right of the bolts increases the grade a bit. 65'

Stager's Arête   5.6   G   65'

Start: Same as Burke's Path.

P1 5.6 G: Go up Burke's Path for 10', then veer right to an arête. Up the arête (stay out of the corner) to a ledge, then join Burke's Path to the top. 65'

Dunce In the Corner   5.5   G   65'

Start: Same as Burke's Path.

P1 5.5 G: Go up Burke's Path for 10', then veer right beneath Stager's Arête to the large, black, right-facing open book. Up the corner to a ledge, then angle left to finish on Stager's Arête. 65'

Back on the Horse   5.9   G   65'

Start: Same as Burke's Path.

P1 5.9 G: Go up Burke's Path for 10', then veer right beneath Stager's Arête to the large, black, right-facing open book. Go up the face right of the corner to a ledge below a black wall. Angle up and right to a fixed anchor at the rim, about 6' left of a prominent, left-facing nose with a birch tree. The crux is 15' below the top. 65'

The Smell of B.O.   5.4   G   65'

The very first route climbed on top rope.

Start: Same as Burke's Path.

P1 5.4 G: Climb up and right on the ramp to below the prominent, left-facing nose at the top of the cliff. Climb straight up left-facing, broken flakes to the birch tree on the nose, then step left to a fixed anchor shared with Back on the Horse. 65'

Ted's Has It All   5.7   G   65'

Start: 20' right of Burke's Path, below the ramp, at the bottom of a large, boulder-looking bulge.

P1 5.7 G: Go straight up the face to the ramp. Step across the ramp and climb over two large ledges to a shallow scooped feature on the main face. Up this to a high ledge below an orange headwall. Go up the left side of the headwall to the top; step right to a fixed anchor. 65'

No M.D. for You   5.6   G   65'

Start: 5' right of Ted's Has It All.

P1 5.6 G: Climb up to meet the ramp, then move up right and climb a crack moving up left to the right side of the high ledge beneath the orange headwall. Up the headwall to a fixed anchor. 65'


Twin Falls Cliff

Location: Accessed from the west end of Tooley Pond Road, near Twin Falls

Aspect: West

Height: 50'

Quality: ***

Description: This small, vertical cliff is about 50' high and 150' wide, has excellent rock, and is laced with thin vertical seams and cracks. It's in a pretty location, rising abruptly from an otherwise flat hardwood forest, with a flat, open cliff base and several fire rings. Along with South Colton, this cliff is a great destination for climbers living north of the park.

Access: Same as Deer Pass [page 603]. Note: As of fall 2012, access is open year route to the Santa Clara Tract, which includes the Tooley Pond Tract and this cliff.

Camping: There are many places along Tooley Pond Road to camp, including several pullouts near Twin Falls and the trailhead to Allen Pond (this is 0.9 mile east of Twin Falls, on the north side of the road, at an open yellow gate marked with #4 on the gate post; drive 0.4 mile to the end of this road.)

Approach: 7 minutes, easy

Directions: The cliff is located near the west end of Tooley Pond Road, which goes from NY 3 in Cranberry Lake northwest to Degrasse.

From the east, from the post office in the center of Cranberry Lake (0.0), drive east on NY 3 for 0.9 mile, then turn right onto Tooley Pond Road. This road is paved for a while, then turns to dirt, then back to pavement. At 14.7 miles you reach Twin Falls on the left (Twin Falls is unmarked, but the Grasse River is very near the road and plunges down an obvious waterfall. At 15.1 miles you reach a logging road on the right (the second logging road on the right after Twin Falls) with a yellow gate and #1 painted on the gate post 18T 0497438 4909104.

From the west, from the intersection of CR 27 and Tooley Pond Road in Degrasse (0.0 mile), go east on Tooley Pond Road. At 1.9 miles you reach Lake George Road on the right. At 2.6 miles you reach a logging road on the left with a yellow gate and #1 painted on the gate post 18T 0497438 4909104.

The correct logging road is directly across from a hidden brown cabin set back 100' from the road. There is a grassy clearing on the other side of the yellow gate, and the logging road is visible going up a steep hill. Plenty of parking is available on the wide shoulders; make sure not to block the cabin or logging road.

From the parking (0 hr 0 min), walk up the logging road and, at 5 min, the road levels out and there is a clearing on the right. Walk 150' further, then turn right (small cairn here, 18T 0497669 4909372) and walk straight east to reach the cliff at 7 min 18T 0497767 4909345. Due to the foliage, the cliff remains hidden until you are very close.

Jake's Route   5.8   G   75'   

One of the better routes here, as it goes to the top of a second tier of rock. The route is 5.6, excluding the 5.8 opening moves. Great views of Twin Falls from the top.

Start: At the left end of the cliff at the base of a large, left-facing, left-leaning open book with a good crack.

P1 5.8 G: Go up the crack for 25' (crux) to its top. Step back right over the top of the crack to a small ledge with a birch, then go straight up the rounded buttress past several horizontals to the top. 75'

The Afternoon Matinee   5.10c   G   40'   

Start: 15' left of a snaking V-groove that begins 12' up, 45' left of Elusive Bastard, at a right-leaning seam that begins at the ground.

P1 5.10c G: Go up the fingertip crack (crux) to a horizontal break with great, thank-god jugs. Continue up the easier handcrack to a mantel finish. Belay off small trees. 40'

Gear: To 2".

Jeff–James   5.12d   G   70'

Start: 12' left of Elusive Bastard below a thin crack. The cliff is at its highest here, and overhangs 5'.

P1 5.12d G: Several 5.11d/5.12a moves lead to a good hold out left 25' up. Step right, then make a series of powerful layback moves. A strenuous-to-place—and critical—#4 nut protects the lower part of the crux, and a #1 TCU protects the upper part. Continue up the crack to the top. 70'

Elusive Bastard (aka The Whipping Post)   5.11b   G   50'   

Most prominent route at the cliff and a north country gem. Sequency and sustained, saving the best for the top.

Start: 110' right of Jake's Corner, at the lowest point on the steepest part of the face, at a left-leaning crack in orange rock that leads to a flared open book 25' up.

P1 5.11b G: Climb up the crack to the flared open book (#3 Camalot in the bottom). Move up the open book to the horizontal crack just above (small cam). A hard move up the fingertip crack (crux) leads to stance, followed by another hard move to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: To 1", and a #3 Camalot.

Fancy Feet   5.10a   PG   45'

Start: 20' right of Elusive Bastard below a flared slot 6' up. This is 1.5' right of a waist-high, mossy seasonal spring.

P1 5.10a PG: Go up the crack into the flare capped by a roof. Up the flare and over the roof at its top (#00 TCU critical), then layback past a hidden hold to a ledge, then easier to the top. 45'

Trundle Bundle   5.6   G   35'   

Start: 28' right of Elusive Bastard, 3' left of a left-facing corner that has a birch 15' up, below a face with left-facing flakes.

P1 5.6 G: Up left-facing flakes into a crack to a ledge, then up parallel cracks to the top. 35'

Tool-less Wonder   5.6   G   60'

Start: 40' right of Trundle Bundle, in a left of a left-facing corner that has a birch 12' up, below a stem box with small roofs 40' up.

P1 5.6 G: Up left-facing corner to tree ledge at 12' through some blocky stuff into a right-facing corner with nice crack. Follow corner and crack through small roof with larger roof to the right (stem box), up a few more feet then move left the top. 60'


Noonmark Mountain

 The topo on page 395 shows High Noon ascending the right-facing corner to the high roof. This is incorrect; this route climbs the right-facing corner to the first roof, over this, then straight up a crack to the top.

From Switzerland With Hate   5.9   X   90'

[Between routes #2 and #3 pages 394–395] Scary and dangerous; perhaps easier if cleaned.

Start: On the right side of the body-sized detached block mentioned for Crack Chimney, and 5' right of that route.

P1 5.9 X: Move up the right side of the detached block with care, then up a nice, steep crack to its top. Continue straight up the difficult, lichen-covered face to the top. 90'


Basin Mountain: South Face Amphiteater

Directly south of the summit of Basin Mountain is a beautiful, south-facing amphitheater. It has seen little attention, perhaps due to the many hours of hiking and bushwhacking required for the approach, the density of the vegetation surrounding the rock, or that it's invisible from most vantage points on the surrounding mountains. A visit requires an affinity for the "whole experience" and will exemplify Adirondack-style adventuring to its full extent. The spectacular setting combined with the strong feeling of solitude make for an unforgettable experience.

In general, the cliff is very clean with very little vegetation. The left side is reportedly loose and unattractive, but the right side is steep with potential for more traditional lines.

Directions: Approach the cliff from the summit of Basin Mountain 18T 589092 4885956, about 5 hours from the Garden Trail via the Orbed Brook Trail (0 hr 0 min). Follow the trail south from the summit. At 5 min, where the trail turns west 18T 589092 4885636, leave the trail and continue south staying on the ridge. The bushwhacking is near impenetrable with little visibility; the best advice is to stay on the ridge, and perhaps use a compass. The ridge descends and, at 15 min, splits to form an amphitheater. Continue south down the steepening slope to the tree line at the top of the wall (25 min), then rappel to the base 18T 589260 4885328.

A 60m rappel may not reach the base in the middle section of the wall. The better trees are set back from the edge, so long cord is helpful.

Knock Before Entering   5.8   R   180'

Start: 35' left of Whaamburger.

P1 5.8 R: Climb up the face, then follow a loose ramp up and right to a small roof at 65'. Move off the stance and begin the long traverse right (crux) to a left-facing corner with a small sapling. Pull around the corner (optional belay) and continue up another 80' of unprotected face and overlaps to gain a shrub belay. Continue up the tree line to the top. 180'

Whaamburger   5.7   PG   150'   

Start: On the right side of the wall, at a blocky chimney 25' left of a vegetated, left-facing corner formed by an enormous leaning slab.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb the blocky chimney. Pull a small roof and move up a left-facing corner to a prominent horn. Pull around the corner and traverse right, then climb the unprotected face up to a tree. 100'

P2 5.4 PG: Easy climbing leads to the top. 50'


Sharp Bridge Campground

 There is now a good herd path to the cliff that begins 50' beyond the bridge [as per the directions on page 141].

Easy Monkey   5.5   G   70'

Start: 35' right of Monkey, at a right facing corner crack system.

P1 5.5 G: Up the corner and crack past a low crux (small TCU helpful). Easy moves continue up the crack to ledges and a short face at the top. 70'


Buck Mountain: Eagle Cliff

Location: East shore of Lake George, accessed from the Northway (I-87) Exit 20.

Height: 65'

Aspect: West

Approach: 50 min, difficult

Description: Beautifully situated on the ridge overlooking Lake George, Eagle Cliff is the tallest of the cliffbands that litter the steep slopes above Upper Buck. It is essentially one large dihedral, with the chimney of Disappearing Act in the middle facing the lake. The left side is sheer and split by a fingercrack (Chingacrack), and the right side has lower angled crack climbs.

Directions: Once rough and nondescript, there is now a decent path to this cliff.

From Upper Buck (30 min), walk left (west) past the base of the cliff for 200' until it is possible to scramble to the top near a short gully. Go left (north) and switchback uphill a couple hundred yards and work left toward a blunt ridgeline. Continue uphill, going right (northeast) and pick up a faint trail (cairns) that arrives at the right side of the cliff 18T 611872 4818419.

Annie's Crack   5.5   G   65'

Climbs a slab along the side of the sheer, left wall.

Start: 50' left of the chimney (Disappearing Act), at a short, left-facing corner.

P1 5.5 G: Go up the corner to a large ledge that is beneath two vertical handcracks. Go up the right handcrack, through a v-slot, past a blocky section, and finish to the right of a small tree. 65'

Scorpion Bowl   5.9+   G   65'   

Start: 40' left of the chimney (Disappearing Act).

P1 5.9+ G: Boulder up to a small ledge 8' up. Go up a right-rising ramp, move left past an arête, and join Annie's Crack at its blocky section. Finish to the right of a small tree. 65'

Eagle Crack   5.12a   G   50'   

The most obvious line on the cliff, a right-leaning fingercrack to the left of the chimney. The bottom 20' is very good, but some of the crux holds are crumbly and the jams are painful.

Disappearing Act   5.8   G   50'   

Start: At the obvious chimney in the center of the cliff.

P1 5.8 G: Boulder past low chockstones (crux) to a ledge 15' up. Enter the chimney, pass behind a high chockstone, and climb to its top. 50'

Cross Dresser   5.7   G   60'   

A short, well-protected crux.

Start: 50' right of the chimney (Disappearing Act), at stacked blocks beneath a long ceiling near the ground.

P1 5.7 G: Go up the blocks, then up a short, left-leaning crack to a ledge on the left. Move to a higher ledge and traverse left to the left of three parallel cracks on the wall. Do the crux move to a horn and continue along the widening crack. Finish either left (above the chimney) or go right to a fixed anchor on a tree. 60'

Devine   5.6   G   50'   

Start: Same as Cross Dresser.

P1 5.6 G: Climb up Cross Dresser to the center of the three parallel cracks on the wall. Go up the crack to its end then step right and climb to a fixed anchor shared with Cross Dresser. 50'

Drag Queen   5.6   G   60'   

Start: Same as Cross Dresser.

P1 5.6 G: Climb up Cross Dresser to the right of the three parallel cracks on the wall. Go up the crack, past a flare, to a thin crack that goes up and right. Follow the thin crack up a steep wall and go to a fixed anchor shared with Cross Dresser. 60'

Drama Queen   5.5   G   60'   

Climbs the low-angled arête on the right end of the cliff

Start: 70' right of the chimney (Disappearing Act), at a mossy ledge beneath opposing corners.

P1 5.5 G: Stem up the opposing corners, then climb vertical fins to lower-angled rock that is followed to the top. 60'


Buck Mountain: Upper Buck

Fat Toad   5.7   G   35'

[Left of route 1, page 433]

Start: On the left side of the cliff, at the top of the gully under the large roof.

P1 5.7 G: Traverse right on a ledge. Round the corner on hand and foot rails to a vertical fist crack. Take this to the top where you may find a fat toad. 35'


West Mountain: Rods & Guns Wall

Location: North of Great Sacandaga Lake

Aspect: South

Height: 85'

Quality:

Approach: 1 hr 10 min, difficult

Description: West Mountain is located north of Great Sacandaga Lake on the south shoulder of Hadley Mountain. There are many cliffs and boulders along the southeast side of the ridge running south of the Hadley Mountain Trail; to date, only the Rods & Guns Wall has seen development. This cliff is barely visible from Hadley Road.

Directions: The cliffs are on state land, but much of the land between the cliffs and the road is owned by several hunting clubs. Hence, an approach from the Hadley Mountain Trail is recommended.

From the south: From the intersection of North Shore Road (CR 4) and Hadley Hill Road (0.0), go north on Hadley Hill Road. At 5.3 miles, then turn left onto Tower Road. At 6.7 miles, park at the Hadley Mountain Trail 18T 585048 4802876.

From the east: From the Northway (I87) Exit 21 (0.0), go south on NYS 9N toward Lake Luzerne. At 10.2 miles, turn right onto School Road. Follow this to its end at Bay Road; turn right, then an immediate left onto Bridge St / Rockwell St. At 10.7 miles turn right onto Stoney Creek Road (CR 1). At 13.8 miles turn left onto Hadley Hill Road. At 18.1 miles, turn right onto Tower Road. At 19.5 miles, park at the Hadley Mountain Trail 18T 585048 4802876.

Follow the trail for 0.5 mile to the #3 marker (these numbers coincide with the brochures available at the parking lot). Leave the trail 18T 584268 4802668 and contour south/southwest (left) to a private property boundary. Skirt this and pass through the talus below a 50'-tall cliff, then drop down slightly and continue south/southwest along a wide, sparsely wooded bench to the southern end of the mountain. Descend along the eastern edge of the bench, then turn west. The wall is positioned just east of the southernmost end of the ridge 18T 583336 4801208. The hike takes about 1 hr 10 min.


West Mountain: Rods and Guns Wall: West End Walls

Directions: Stay on the wooded bench below the talus of the Main Wall. Walk uphill and westerly for 8 minutes. Keep an eye on the hillside at the top of the talus. A series of broken buttresses marks where the slope of the mountain turns towards northward. These are the West End Walls.

Outlander   5.9   G   65'   

Start: The leftmost large, steep buttress is very broken and steep on its left side; this route begins in a right-facing open book uphill and left of the low point of the buttress. The corner is overhanging at its start, and leads to a tight V-notch 5' left of a ledge with a refrigerator-sized detached block.

P1 5.9 G: Climb the face right of the corner (avoid choss on the left face) into the crack in the V-notch. Climb up this to a stance below a bulge. Go through a hanging notch to easier climbing that leads to a large ledge sparingly festooned with scraggly birch and poplar. 65'

Descent: Rappel off anemic trees or scramble up (climber's) left to reach a 3rd class gully.

Autumn Slab   5.5   G   70'   

Start: Locate the central and tallest buttress. Begin 10' up and right of the low point of the slab.

P1 5.5 G: Climb up and left to a crack breaking through an overhang. Continue upward to finish on a right-rising crack that goes through a small, left-rising overhang. 70'

Descent: Go down class 3rd class gully to the (climber's) right.


West Mountain: Rods & Guns Wall: Main Cliff

The main cliff is hidden by large hardwoods, and is 300' wide and 85' tall. To either side lie several smaller outcrops. Main Cliff has a central, major roof 25' up that blocks access to the upper portion of the cliff, and to date, no routes break this barrier.

To descend, rappel from a fixed anchor on a tree directly over the roof. Or, walk west (climber's left) until you can scramble down to the base of the cliff.

Blunderbus   5.5   G   55'

Start: Near the left end of the cliff at a foot-wide channel that begins as a shallow, right-facing corner. The channel is just behind an oak tree, and there's a large pine 25' up.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the channel past the pine tree, then, from a large block, continue up a final steep wall. 55'

Misfire   5.9-   PG   60'

Looks like 5.7.

Start: At stacked boulders 8' right of the channel with an oak tree in its base (the start of Blunderbus), and 4' left of a right-facing corner with a 10'-tall rock needle lying at an angle against it 15' up (the start of Scattershot), below a thin crack in an overhang.

P1 5.9- PG: Climb blocks to overhang, go through this using the crack and outside corner, then climb up right of a giant boulder and scramble up easy rock, joining Scattershot to the top of the cliff. 60'

Scattershot   5.4   R   55'

Characterized by good pro in bad rock, this route ascends a choss pile, originally thought to be a quick way to the top.

Start: At a dirty, right-facing corner just left of a fresh slab. A 10'-tall stone needle is tilted against the corner 20' up.

P1 5.4 R: Climb the slab just right of the corner until a tricky move to somewhat stable rock is possible. Clamber up the corner behind the needle onto a ledge. Climb the brushy face above this to the top. 55'

Colt 45 Corner   5.10a   G   55'

Start: 40' left of Chuting Lane near a 12'-long, sharp-edged boulder lying horizontally 20' below the cliff, at a steep, right-facing corner, partially hidden by trees.

P1 5.10a G: Scramble up a broken pile of dirt and rocks to the corner, then up a wide offwidth crack to a bulging tips layback on a thick, square-edged rock fin. A small ledge offers some rest before finishing up a corner with small gear (small nuts and cams) through another bulge to the top. 55'

Chuting Lane   5.6   G   55'   

Start: At a very large, left-facing corner, partially hidden by brush, 15' above the trail. This is the most-noticeable feature of the cliff left of the major roof.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the corner to a ledge on its top, then climb through the final headwall via a wide crack and corner system. 55'

Daisy BB   5.8   G   70'

Start: At a short, vertical crack in the face 10' left of the bookend alcove where Pump Action and Lever Action begin.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack to its end. Work up the slab to a thin, vertical crack and climb it to a good ledge. Go up an arching, left-rising crack in the right-hand wall of a left-facing corner to a sloping stance below a wide crack. Climb the wide crack past a birch tree to a ledge. Climb directly up the crack and face to the top, left of an 8'-long block. 70'

Squeezing Miss Daisy   5.8-   PG   70'

A squeeze job.

Start: At a waist-high concavity in the face just right of a short vertical crack (the start of Daisy BB), left of a right-facing corner (the start of Unnamed09).

P1 5.8- PG: Climb to a sloping stance, then move up and left to holds just right of the thin crack of Daisy BB. Climb up onto a ledge at its right end, up a vertical crack for a few feet, then traverse 5' right to a small, short, right-facing corner. Go up above this to a sloping stance below a hand- and fist-crack. Climb the crack past a birch tree to a ledge, then up a final headwall to finish at the right end of an 8' long block.

B.A.R.   5.10b   G   65'   

Start: At an 10'-tall right-facing corner 7' left of the right-facing corner of the Pump Action.

P1 5.10b G: Climb up the corner to stance, then up and right to a right-rising, right-facing flake system. Up this to a horizontal under a steep wall, then up a sharply-defined vertical tips crack to another steep bit. Use face holds and another vertical crack to reach a good ledge. Go up a flaring notch in a final steep face to the top. 65'

Gear: Tricams are helpful for protecting several of the difficult moves.

Pump Action   5.10a   PG   70'   

Strenuous climbing with good (but pumpy to place) protection.

Start: On the left side of a 12'-wide, level platform at the foot of the cliff, 50' right of the broken left end of the main cliff, at an 8'-tall right-facing corner with a crack continuing above it.

P1 5.10a PG: Climb the corner and crack to a large ledge, then continue up the shallow, right-facing corner to the top. 70'

Gear: Small to medium cams, tricams.

Lever Action   5.8-   G   70'   

Hidden protection makes this easier than it looks.

Start: At a left-facing corner on the right side of the level platform of Pump Action.

P1 5.8- G: (V1) Climb the corner to a stance, then up a seam, swing left along a right-pointing flake and back right to continue up the crack system to a large ledge. Climb a left-facing corner to the top. 70'

V1 5.8 G: An alternative, pumpy start begins down and right, below a crack running through a steep face. Climb the crack, then go up and left to meet the normal route at the beginning of the crux section.

Trigger Finger   5.11a   G   85'   

Start: Around the corner (and down) from Lever Action, at a head-high overhang with a sloping horizontal above. This is 10' left of the left end of the major roof system.

P1 5.11a G: Climb to the horizontal and move left to a vertical crack. Follow this up and back right onto a block below a bulging face with a solitary vertical seam running up it. Climb up this weakness and follow the ensuing crack system to the top. 85'

Winchester Dihedral   5.9+   G   80'   

Stretchy stemming, a tricky traverse, and strenuous crack climbing. The direct finish awaits a free ascent.

Start: At a left-facing corner at the right end of the major roof system, below an overhanging, flared corner.

P1 5.9+ G: Climb the corner to a stance, then up until hidden holds allow you to escape left and up to a sloping ledge. Traverse left 7' to a right-facing corner; go up this, then trend back right to the top. 80'

Garand Arête   5.10d   G   80'   

Start: 6' right of the left-facing corner at the right end of the large ceiling (the start of Winchester Dihedral), at a steep face.

P1 5.10d G: Climb up and left on a steep face to a rail leading out right to the arête. Go up the arête to a slot; go past this to left or right, to easier climbing. 80'

Kalashnikov Corner   5.8   PG   80'   

The first route here.

Start: At a seam–crack leading to a right-facing corner 25' right of the end of the major roof system, about 30' left of a dirty, 5th-class gully at the end of the main face.

P1 5.8 PG: Climb blocky rock to the right-facing corner and continue up this to a stance at the top of the block forming the corner. Continue up lower-angle rock to the trees. 80'

Tommy Gun   5.10c   G   65'   

Start: 6' right of Kalashnikov Corner, at a steep slab with a tiny overhang 8' up.

P1 5.10c G: Climb up slab, through overhang, past a horizontal crack to reach a steep headwall below a right-facing flake–corner. Climb up this, then make a long reach left to gain a ledge. Rail up right to another stance, then up and left to the top. 65'

Chute to Kill   5.9-   PG   45'

The first ascent almost ended fatally for the spectators below. This will be a good route if cleaned.

Start: 50' right of the right end of the major roof system, at a right-facing corner leading to an overhang 9' up.

P1 5.9- PG: Climb up to and through the overhang into a thin vertical crack in the slab above. Climb up this to a blocky ledge, step onto a block and climb through a shallow cleft on the right to a sloping finish. 45'

Trajectory Crack   5.7   G   50'   

Start: On the left side of the steep gully at the right end of the main face, at a small niche below an attractive finger- and hand-crack on the right edge of the wall.

P1 5.7 G: Climb up to a stance at the start of the vertical crack, then follow this feature to its end on a ledge. Step left and climb the face to the top. 50'


West Mountain: Rods and Guns Walls: The Slab

Directions: The Slab is directly right of the Main Wall, separated by a dirty, loose 5th class gully. Trajectory Crack starts on the lower left-hand side of this gully.

Descent: Rappel off trees.

Off Target   5.7   PG   70'

Start: At the left end of the slab, 8' up and left of the low point, beneath a left-facing corner.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb the good holds on the right edge of the corner, then follow a crack up through bulge to the top. 70'

Half Cocked   5.7   PG   75'

Start: At the low point of the slab, 20' right of the 5th class gully separating the slab from the main face.

P1 5.7 PG: Climb up a shallow, angular groove, over an angular flap, then up staying right of a right-facing corner to the top. 75'


West Mountain: Silver Bullet Band

This small outcrop lies over 100 yards east and below Main Cliff, past several other small cliff bands. It is composed entirely of a compact, gray rock. An attractive left-facing corner lies near the left end (the route Silveretta), which is about 12' right of a steep gully that leads to the top.

Directions: Follow the line of Main Cliff 100 yards east (climber's right) and down, past several short cliffbands.

Silveretta   5.5   G   35'   

If only it were longer. Several very hard topropes are to the right of this route.

Start: At a left-facing corner, 12' right of the left side of the cliff.

P1 5.5 G: Climb the left-facing corner 7', then follow a vertical crack up and onto the arête to its right. Ascend it to the top. 35'


West Mountain: Wave Wall

This small, 40'-tall, concave-shaped wall is sports an overhang at mid-height and has generally poor pro at the difficult sections. Combined with ease of setup, it is better for toproping than lead climbing. Several toprope routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.11 have been done here.

Directions: Stay on the easy terrain below the talus, and walk southeast, descending parallel to the line of intermittent cliffs above, about 1/4 mile.

Wave Bye Bye   5.6   PG   40'

Start: Just right of the outside corner that bounds the concave section of cliff, at a dirty, stepped slab.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb slab up and left to an overhang. Move around this to the left, then get on top of a large block and climb more slab to the top.


West Mountain: Whaling Wall

This 90'-tall cliff is closer to the Hadley Mountain trail. Much of the cliff is frightfully chossy, as the one route here exemplifies all too well.

Directions: From the Hadley Mountain trail locate the westernmost corner of the private property. From here, walk about 8 minutes further south to the cliff.

Whale Ship   5.8   G   90'

A more appropriate name would require changing one letter; it is likely to fall down soon.

Start: At the broken left end of the right side of the cliff, at a left-facing corner, just right of a blocky area below an obvious broken cleft 15' up. Currently, there is a large ash tree growing below this cleft; the belayer may want to use it as a shield.

P1 5.8 G: Climb up right face and corner to a wide crack by a pile of huge blocks. Climb crack to a stance below an overhang with a crack formed by a giant block separated from the cliff. Climb through this to easier rock and belay at trees. 90'

Descent: Rappel off trees.


The Honey Pot (aka Green Hill)

Location: Near Elizabethtown, close to the Northway (I-87) Exit 31.

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 70'

Quality: **

Description: This is a smallish 80'-wide cliff with a low, sheer, vertical wall, a roof at mid-height, and an overhanging wall at the top. There is nothing moderate on this cliff, and time will tell whether other routes can be found through its impressive features. The rock is smooth down low, but otherwise high quality. The overhanging sections are split by horizontal seams and cracks.

The cliff is nestled in a tiny valley, and sees full sun until mid afternoon. The base of the cliff is open and pleasant, and there are decent views of the valley from the top. The Northway can be seen (and barely heard) from the top.

Access: The entire cliff and approach are on state land. Be aware, however, of the east-west property boundary running diagonally down the hill 75' in front of the cliff.

Further southwest along the same aspect on Green Hill is another taller cliff visible from the Northway (I-87). This is clearly on private land.

Approach: 20 min, moderate

Directions: From the Northway (I-87) Exit 31, drive west on NY 9N for 1.7 miles. Park on the south side of the road directly across from the former Mountain Shadows restaurant (now an apartment), and just west (and in sight of) the Essex County Transportation Maintenance facility (shown as "gravel pit" on topo maps). 18T 616432 4896292

Locate an old forest road across the road from the former Mountain Shadows building. Follow this south into the woods, roughly along the fence of the maintenance facility, to a power line. Go straight across the power line and pick up the forest road again. Follow this on a southerly course through generally open, pleasant forest, heading gradually uphill and contouring the hillside. The forest road is difficult to follow in places, but if you stay on course, it will lead you to the base of the cliff about 20 min from the car. 18T 616176 4895416

Monkey Pump   5.11d   G   60'   

This gymnastic route finds its way up an unlikely wall capped by a roof. Getting through the roof involves two totally-horizontal body positions, one with both feet above your head.

Start: At a 2'-high pedestal just right of a boulder pile, located right of center on the cliff.

P1 5.11d G: Stand on the pedestal, then follow horizontal edges up a smooth face to the roof. A few juggy reaches get you positioned below a shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner. Monkey your way into the corner, then up to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 60'

Gear: Draws.


Moss Lake Slab

Location: Eagle Bay, accessed from Big Moose Rd

Aspect: South East

Height: 200'

Quality: ***

Approach: 30 min, easy

Description: Moss Lake Slab is a tucked away in what feels to be remote valley but is quite close to the road. There's a mountain-bike trail around Moss Lake with some boulders scattered to the right of the tail on the way in. The slab has excellent rock quality with sections of dimpled "moon" rock unique to the Adirondacks.

Directions: At the intersection of NY 28 and Big Moose Road in Eagle Bay (0.0 mile), follow the Big Moose Road north 2.2 miles to Moss Lake. Park on the left (west) side of the road at a large parking lot with the trailhead and kiosk 18T 512344 4848604.

From the kiosk (0 hr 0 min), follow the trail around the north side of the lake for 1 mile. At 15 min, when the trail reaches the western tip of the lake 18T 511484 4847844, head into the woods and contour southwest along the bottom slope of the mountain through a flat, open hardwood forest until you reach the slab 1.5 miles 18T 510832 4847568, 30 min from the car.

The Iron Heel   5.4   PG   175'   

When combined with the Crackberry finish, it provides a well-protected 5.9 route.

Start: Towards the right side of the slab just left of small, left-facing, left-leaning corner formed by a large flake.

P1 5.4 PG: Move up and right across open slab to the corner. Climb the corner (good gear) for 50' then straight up the wonderfully textured, dimpled, low-angle slab (protection every 25' or so) to an overlap 125' up. (From here, you can finish straight through the overlap as for Crackberry, 5.9.) Traverse right for 50' below the overlap to the trees. 175'

Gear: To 3".

Descent: Rappel from trees with double 60m ropes.

Crackberry   5.9   G (5.3 X)   195'   

Start: On the far right side of the slab, 40' right of The Iron Heel and just left of a short, low-angle, shallow chimney that leads to scrub, and directly below a very small overlap.

P1 5.3 X: Climb beautiful, clean, textured slab through a small overlap to the large overlap (some small gear can be found in a few pockets and cracks by wandering around and looking carefully). Move left at the large overlap to the weakness and good gear in a right-facing, rounded flake joining The Iron Heel. 140'

P2 5.9 G: Pull the overlap at the right-facing, rounded flake and finish on the easy slab to the trees at the top. 55'

Gear: To 3".

Descent: Rappel from trees with double 60m ropes.


Potash Cliff

Location: Near Lake Luzerne, 8 miles from Northway Exit 21

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 95'

Description: Potash Mountain is a small, rugged peak with a cliff band along its base. The rock routes are tightly clustered on the tallest and steepest section of this cliff band. Above the tallest cliff band are numerous smaller bands linked by a mountaineering route that finishes on the summit ledges.

Potash Cliff is a great cragging destination because of its compact size, abundant fixed anchors, and clean, steep routes. Although it's small, it packs a punch with thought provoking, exposed, and featured routes that take full advantage of the many roofs, dihedrals and arêtes. There are a few notable cracks—Eat Dessert First, Double Diamond, and Fear of a Flat Planet—, but the majority of the routes are face climbs on compact rock with positive handholds and tricky footwork; El Regalo, Endless Journey, and Iron Cross are examples.

Potash is climbable for most of the year due to its sunny exposure, summer tree cover, and steep, dry walls. Quick access from the Northway makes it a convenient after-work crag or an easy stop on the way through the Lake George region.

Despite being on public land, access concerns have created a unique situation for climbers: the state land is completely surrounded by private land and there is no public right-of-way on record anywhere. Thankfully, there is a private nature preserve that allows climbers to access the cliff. Prinpaw Preserve encompasses 300 acres of the northern side of Potash Mountain. Prinpaw hosts private retreats, maintains a network of trails, and preserves the natural beauty of the mountain.

The generosity of the Prinpaw owner can not be overstated. She wants climbers to enjoy the mountain, and we are indebted to her openness to have us pass through. All efforts need to be made to be good stewards to the mountain, respect the privacy of the neighbors, and preserve access to Potash for future generations of climbers. In short, the parking and approach directions must be followed exactly by all climbers visiting Potash Cliff.

Approach: 22 min, moderate

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 21 (0.0 mile), go south towards Lake Luzerne on NY 9N for 7.0 miles to the hamlet of Fourth Lake. Turn right (north) onto Potash Road which is opposite the entrance to the Fourth Lake DEC Campground and next to Harris Grocery. At 8.4 miles there is a dirt driveway on the right (east) that goes past an orange gate to the parking area. The entrance to the driveway is 200' before a bridge and immediately before a "Narrow Bridge" sign. Follow the driveway (past a neighboring brown house with threatening dogs) for 200' to a parking area in front of a green garage. There is a designated parking area, on the right, for six cars. Do not drive, or park, past the green garage 18T 0594217 4803547. There is a register at the trailhead which you need to sign.

The approach trail begins to the right of the garage door (0 hr 0 min). Follow the trail as it climbs at a moderate grade and curves toward the right (southwest). At 3 min reach the base of a steep hill where the climber trail intersects with an ATV trail. Turn left and go steeply up the ATV trail for 100' then turn right and continue up the climber trail. Go over two rocky sections to where the trail levels at the crest of the hill (7 min). Descend at an easy grade and reach the powerline at 10 min. Diagonal across the powerline and head downhill past pole #72 to two boulders. Go between the two boulders and continue on the trail as it contours to the state land boundary (yellow-blazed trees) at 13 min. Follow the trail and state land boundary and drop below a broad open talus field on the left. From here, continue level and contour across a wooded talus field staying well below cliffbands uphill and to the left. The state land boundary diverges to the right away from the trail; continue to contour through talus to reach the left end of the cliff at 22 min. Continue for 150' to the first route, Eat Dessert First, a right-rising finger- and hand-crack on a steep, 30'-tall wall 18T 594825 480314.

Access: The local snowmobile club has the right-of-way from December to April for the uphill (east) shoulder of Potash Road and the driveway that goes to the parking area. During the snowmobile season, climbers must park on the shoulder of Potash Road opposite the entrance to the driveway (the west side). Be prepared to dig out a parking space because the shoulder is narrow.

The approach to Potash Cliff crosses private property. Specifically, the parking area, the trail to the powerline, the powerline, and the short section of trail between the powerline and state land boundary. The landowner generously allows climbers to access the state land by way of this trail. Avoid loitering at the parking area and along the trail to state land. Under no circumstances are climbers permitted to park beneath the powerline and hike directly to the trail or cliff! Access and guidelines may change at any time. Be aware of all notices, postings or signs. All entry to the property is done at your own risk.

Peregrine falcons regularly nest at the far right end of the cliff between March and July. Currently there are no climbing restrictions and the birds continue to nest successfully. It is imperative that you do not walk past Black Dog (the last route on the main face of the cliff) during these months or whenever the birds are present. The climbs are out of sight from the nest, so climbers and peregrines have been able to share the cliff for many breeding seasons.

Eat Dessert First   5.10d   G   30'   

Short and desperate, this route is located where the approach trail first reaches the cliff. Tape your hands!

Start: At the left end of the cliff at a left-rising, moss-covered ramp with right-facing flake/handcrack that begins at its right end.

P1 5.10d G: Go up the flake and follow the crack as it narrows to finger-size and diagonals right. Go past a pod (crux) and continue up the fingercrack to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 30'

Gear: To 2".

Anopheles   5.8   G   80'   

The route name is the scientific name for the mosquito.

Start: 50' right of Eat Dessert First beneath a left-rising dike–ledge that begins 10' up.

P1 5.8 G: Scramble up a slab to a short, open book beneath the dike. Cross the dike and go up a steep wall with a left-facing flake. Climb the flake and continue up low-angled rock to a second, left-rising dike. Go past the dike (crux) to the base of an enormous arrowhead block. Move around the left side of the block and up a steep corner to a stance with a fixed anchor. 80'

Gear: 8 quickdraws.

Pulled Tooth   5.8+   G   40'   

Start: 20' right of Anopheles at a ledge 7' up and beneath an open book.

P1 5.8+ G: Reach up to the ledge, then move left onto a blocky buttress and up to a left-rising, eroded dike. Make a big reach out right and above the dike to a horn (the tooth) and pull onto a right-facing arête. Climb the arête to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 40'

Gear: 5 quickdraws.

Sunset Crack Project

Begin on a ledge above the fixed anchor of Anopheles. Go up a sheer orange face then move right to a left-arching, fingertip crack. Follow the crack to a severely overhanging wall that is climbed to the top. In the 5.12 range.

La Frontera   5.11c   G   95'   

Ascends the tallest prow on the cliff which has a left-rising roof halfway up. Spanish for "the boundary".

Start: At a left-rising slab below a ceiling that formed from an eroded dike.

P1 5.11c G: Go up the slab and reach above the ceiling. The gymnastic crux goes past geometric corners and a jutting flake to a hand jam in a v-slot. Climb to a left-rising ledge and up a vertical fingercrack in a left-facing corner. Follow the crack past the right end right of the roof (technical crux) to a rest beneath a right-facing open book. Work up the exposed open book, mantle onto a ledge, and climb easily to a fixed anchor at the top of the prow. 95'

Gear: 7 quickdraws plus gear to 2".

El Regalo   5.10c   G   85'   

Steep cedar-pulling, guano-covered ledges, and sporty distances between gear add to this fine route. El Regalo follows a vertical fracture in the wide open book on the left side of the cliff. Spanish for "the gift".

Start: From the center of the cliff, scramble up a left-rising slab–ledge to a belay stance next to a car-sized boulder that is 20' above the ground and 20' below a cedar tree that grows out of a vertical crack.

P1 5.10c G: Step up onto the boulder and make an awkward move up a short, right-leaning corner to a small cedar tree. Enjoyable climbing on incut holds ends at a stance below a steep, left-facing corner. Stem the corner and mantel a ledge covered in bird guano. Launch out left onto the overhanging face (crux) and work up to a vertical crack in a shallow left-facing corner. Climb the crack past a jutting block to an easy handcrack that ends at a fixed anchor. 85'

Gear: 9 quickdraws.

Cara Bonita   5.11b   PG   85'   

Although the crux involves a dyno off of a single finger, leading the steep crack is "thrilling". Easily toproped from the El Regalo fixed anchor after clipping the piton as a directional. Spanish for "pretty face".

Start: Same as El Regalo.

P1 5.11b PG: Step up onto the boulder and start up the awkward right-leaning corner. Step left onto a ledge and reach for small holds that lead to incut flakes and easy climbing. Pull onto a steep slab, diagonal up and left along a stepped seam, then make a big move (crux) to a sloping ledge that is beneath a right-rising fingercrack. Follow the overhanging crack (piton) to its end and join El Regalo at its crux. Finish as for El Regalo: work up to a vertical crack in a shallow left-facing corner. Climb the crack past a jutting block to an easy handcrack that ends at a fixed anchor. 85'

Gear: 9 quickdraws and gear to 1.5".

Endless Journey   5.11a   G   95'   

Climbs the deep, left-facing corner that starts 50' up the center of the cliff. The perplexing crux is well-protected and the remainder of the route is exposed—and sustained—5.10.

Start: Same as El Regalo.

P1 5.11a G: Follow El Regalo to the cedar tree: step up onto the boulder and make an awkward move up a short, right-leaning corner to a small cedar tree. Go right around the cedar tree and hand-traverse right across a sloping ledge to the base of a 10'-tall, overhanging arête. Move right beneath the arête and reach above an overhang to a fingercrack on its right side. Make a strenuous pull to clear the overhang, then work up the right side of the arête to a stance. Step right to gain the base of a tall, deep, left-facing corner. Follow the corner past a left-facing flake on the left wall to an overhang. Climb the overhang and continue up the corner to a ceiling near the top of the cliff. Escape out right and scramble around the ceiling to a fixed anchor. 95'

Gear: 12 quickdraws.

Boob Job   5.10a   G   45'   

Like many alterations (a large flake was removed) this one is glaringly obvious. This route is used to access Rhinoplasty.

Start: From the center of the cliff base, scramble up a left-rising slab–ledge to a belay next to perched blocks that are beneath a vertical wall with a detached shield of rock.

P1 5.10a G: Grab the detached shield and make a big move right to right-facing flakes in a shattered, right-facing corner. Go up the corner to a vertical crack. Work up and left along the crack and finish on a right-rising ledge with a fixed anchor. 45'

Gear: 2 quickdraws and gear to 1".

Rhinoplasty   5.12a   G   50'   

For safety reasons this route got some plastic surgery above the ceiling. Clipping the belay anchor as a first point of protection.

Start: At the fixed anchor atop P1 of Boob Job.

P1 5.12a G: Follow a vertical seam up an overhanging wall (crux) to a stance below the right end of a long ceiling 60' up. Continue up the seam and over the ceiling to a horizontal fingercrack. Traverse left, along the crack, and mantel onto an exposed stance on an arête (the edge of the Endless Journey corner). Climb a slab up and right to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: 5 quickdraws and gear to 1".

Double Diamond   5.10d   G   40'   

Climbs the laser-cut, left-facing corner that begins 20' up. Stays dry in the rain.

Start: On talus blocks to the right of wet, moss-covered cracks.

P1 5.10d G: Go up a sloping ledge and reach left to a block above an overhang. Pull over the block and into a thin, vertical crack. Follow the crack into the left-facing corner where it narrows to tips. Stem the sheer corner and a vertical crack on the left wall until the tips crack ends at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 40'

Gear: 1 ea to 2", doubles of 0.3".

Bunny Slope   5.8+   G   40'   

Climbs the right edge of an enormous, detached wall that sits beneath the most overhanging section of the cliff. Stays dry in the rain.

Start: 20' right of Double Diamond at chest-sized blocks that lean against the cliff.

P1 5.8+ G: Climb a thin vertical crack (0.2" cam, crux) to a sloping ledge. Hand traverse to the left, then follow a fingercrack past a jutting flake that is beneath a prominent horn. Reach for the horn and hand jam left along a crack to the fixed anchor shared with Double Diamond. 40'

V1 5.6 R: Start up a right-facing, friable flake that is 5' left of the start. Join the route at the sloping ledge.

Gear: Small cams to 3.5".

Sasquatch Hunting   5.13a   G   50'   

Climbs the bulging prow at the top of the cliff. A hard, short, well-protected route with an exposed position.

Start: At the fixed anchor at the top of Wide Supremacy. Climb either Bunny Slope or Boob Job and continue up easy rock to a stance on top of the detached wall.

P1 5.13b G: Step onto the main face, reach left into a handcrack and follow it to an overhanging wall with stepped overhangs. Go past the overhangs and reach right to left-facing, vertical ribs (crux). Move right across a vertical face then up easier rock to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: 5 quickdraws.

Wide Supremacy   5.11a   G   60'   

Climbs the left-arching wide crack in the center of the cliff. Awaits a clean, no-falls lead.

Start: At a wide crack in a left-facing corner, just right of Bunny Slope.

P1 5.11a G: Follow the easy corner to the base of a roof then go left following a 6–10" crack that starts vertical and parallel-sided, then goes horizontal and funky (crux). Traverse left to a fixed anchor on top of the enormous detached wall. 60'

Gear: 1 ea to 8", doubles of 5" to 7".

Fear of a Flat Planet   5.11c   G   85'   

Double ropes and long slings recommended. The crux roof is harder if you are short.

Start: Same as Wide Supremacy.

P1 5.11c G: Follow the easy corner to the base of a roof then move right to a fingercrack that goes through the roof. Go out the crack and past an arête to the lip of the roof. Pull over the roof (crux) and continue up the fingercrack splitting a sheer face. When the crack widens and eases (pin), traverse left across a face with left-facing flakes to a high, stepped ceiling. Pass the ceilings on the left (at a jutting block that faces left) and make strenuous moves until it is possible to step right onto a slab. Climb a vertical crack to a fixed anchor. 85'

Gear: 3 quickdraws plus gear to 3", doubles to 1".

Iron Cross   5.11c   G   70'   

Brilliant face-climbing with a strenuous, low crux and a balancey sequence beneath the open book.

Start: 15' right of the chest-sized blocks that lean against the cliff, where the base of the cliff begins to climb uphill, at a right-facing flake 4' up.

P1 5.11c G: Go up the flakes, move left across an overhanging wall and do an iron cross to reach a right-facing flake. Climb up sloping edges to a stance beneath a steep slab in an overhanging, right-facing open book. Decipher some puzzling moves that go up and left across the open book to a right-rising flake in the right wall. Exit the open book at a ledge with a right-rising crack. Above the ledge, move up left-facing flakes to the right side of a long ceiling. Pull past the ceiling, then work up and left across a face to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70'

Gear: 8 quickdraws.

Black Dog   5.12a   G   50'   

A high stick-clip was employed during the first ascent. The initial moves out of the corner are reachy.

Start: At the right end, 30' uphill of the chest-sized blocks that lean against the cliff, at a left-facing corner beneath tiered ceilings.

P1 5.12a G: Start up the left-facing corner, reach out right to an arête and climb it (crux) to a sloping ledge. Continue up the left side of the arête and rock onto a higher sloping ledge. Step right beneath a ceiling to a vertical crack which is climbed to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: 3 quickdraws plus gear to 3".

Haley's Nose   5.9   PG   50'

Start: 8' right of Black Dog, at opposing corners in a shallow chimney.

P1 5.9 PG: Work up the chimney to ledge on the right. Step left to vertical crack and join Black Dog to a fixed anchor. 50'

Gear: To 3".

Goes Both Ways   5.9   PG   80'   

A popular winter route that is worthwhile when the bottom is dry.

Start: 200' uphill and right of the chest-sized blocks that lean against the cliff, immediately right of a wet section of cliff, at a mossy right-facing corner with a ledge 10' up.

P1 5.9 PG: Scramble to the right to gain the ledge, then reach up and left into a vertical crack. Climb the crack and a short left-facing corner to its right (crux) to a wide ledge beneath a deep, left-facing corner 40' up. Follow a steep crack on the right wall of the corner past a sloping ledge to a ledge out right. Scramble to a fixed anchor that is 20' below the top. 80'

Gear: To 3".


Cobble Cliff

 The route Connection (5.12c) awaits a successful lead. The FA should read "FA (TR) Oct 2003 Derek Amberman".


Fish Mountain Crag

Small cliff band over looking Oxbow Lake, with about a .5 mile approach.

Location: Lake Pleasant NY, accessed from Fish Mountain Road

Aspect: Southwest

Height: 50'

Quality: *

Approach: 15 min, easy

Description: Fish Mountain Crag is collection of small cliffs with good quality rock overlooking Oxbow Lake, spread out across the southwest aspect of Fish Mountain. For the most part, the rock is very dirty, but a few clean sections can be found. The cliff has a mix of short faces, cracks, and even a mini-slab. Additionally, from the top there is a decent view of Piseco Lake and Oxbow Lake to the southwest. The first crag to be explored is on the right side closest to the parking.

Directions: Locate the intersection of NY 8 and Tamarack Road. This intersection is 1.7 miles from South Shore Road in Lake Pleasant, when traveling towards Piseco.

From the intersection (0.0), turn onto Tamarack Road. At 0.7 mile, turn left onto Fish Mountain Road and drive to its end at 1.3 miles. Park near the Fish Mountain Cemetery 18T 543972 4812768.

Walk along the north side of the cemetery on the snowmobile trail heading northeast towards Sacandaga Lake. Go 75' past the DEC gate and take a very sharp left following the trail that heads up the hill (west). Follow this trail for about 0.25 mile to a point where the trail begins to lose elevation. Walk rightwards into the woods, heading up hill. Go mostly northwest until you cross a swampy area, then head north and climb a couple hundred feet up the shoulder of the mountain to the crags 18T 543700 4813128, 15 minutes from the parking area.

Just Chum-me   5.7+   PG   55'

Start: This route is located about 15' right of a slabby area about 10' up, and is at the highest section of rock. There is a nice face with intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks. Begin left of a wet, mossy crack system.

P1 5.7+ PG: Climb the off-vertical face using left-facing flakes–blocks. Go up the left side of these blocks for about 12', then through a series of horizontals split by a thin vertical crack. Continue up to where the rock steepens beyond vertical, then (V1) move up and right to a right-facing corner and ledge (a direct line that stays on the face avoiding this ledge–corner has been toproped at 5.10a). Pull around left (watch the rope drag in the finger crack below the corner) onto a slab and move left about 5' to a vertical crack. Follow crack to the top. 55'

V1 5.9 G: Much better than the normal finish: go straight up the face to the vertical crack 5' left of the right-facing corner. Finish on the normal route.

Balls In Space   5.8   TR   55'

This route is located 30' right of a Just Chum-me and 6' left of another vertical hand crack. Climb the handcrack up to a stem box, then a few feet of awkward offwidth, then back to hands again. Move out left onto a face–slab to a nice left-facing flake, then up lower-angled, dirty terrain to the trees. The moss has been cleaned out of the crack above the offwidth making a more pure crack climb straight up.

With Brook Trout Eyes   5.9   TR   50'

Begin 6' right of Balls in Space bellow a left-leaning hand crack 9' up. Climb steps and face holds leading to the left-leaning handcrack. Follow handcrack to a good ledge with good gear.

Royal Coachman   5.9   G   60'

Start: 12' right of With Brook Trout Eyes at a tiny, right-facing corner bellow a vertical seem which gradually increases in hand width.

P1 5.9 G: Work up to the left of the crack using steps for about 7' and gain the fingercrack. Climb the gradually widening crack. Finish on a very low angle slab at the top. 60'


Giant Mountain

 The approach to the Eagle Slide (and other slides in this area) was significantly affected by Hurricane Irene, which did a good job cleaning out the streambed. The guidebook description [page 382] states that it is best to use a herd path in the woods between the Bottle Slide and Eagle Slide drainages. This is no longer the case. Follow the guidebook directions until you reach Roaring Brook and then stay in the brook to the base of the Eagle Slide. Although there are chokes of downed trees in the brook, the going is not difficult and the navigation is straight forward.


Palisades

[Lake Champlain Monster, page 131]

Birthday Route   5.6   PG   210'

About 200' right of Lake Champlain Monster [Route #1, page 131], beginning at water level, this route follows the winter route Drop, Swim or Die, the leftmost bottom-to-top depression in black rock.

[For the Birds, page 131]

The Original Route   5.9+   G   80'   

The obvious corner to left of Atom Smasher.

Start: On the ledge at the start of Atom Smasher.

P1 5.9+ G: Make moves over the water on good holds to a sketchy pull into the corner (optional belay). Jam and stem the amazing corner to a ledge. Hard moves up the hanging flake system lead to an offwidth and a fixed anchor. 80'

Atom Smasher   5.10d   G   65'

This mixed line is on the far right side of the main face. It is best approached from the water, as there is a small landing platform near the base.

Start: On the right end of the main cliff, about 200' right of For the Birds [Route #2, page 131], on a small buttress with a small, right-rising ramp that serves as a landing platform at the base. There is a dark-colored horizontal band in grey rock that marks the start.

P1 5.10d G: A stick clip is used for the first bolt. Pull through the first V6 boulder problem to reach a flake. Go up and right, then step back left on ledge. Move straight up a face to the top of the buttress. 65'

Gear: To 2".


Pulpit Rock

Placid Es Pontas   5.11a   R   50'

The first ascent was done as a deep water solo (and is probably best climbed this way), hence the R protection rating is just an estimate.

Start: 20' left of Jack in the Pulpit at a horizontal crack in an orange section of rock below an overhang.

P1 5.11a R: Climb a faint vertical crack in orange rock to a depression-like hole (a fist-sized offwidth) at mid height. Follow the faint vertical crack up (crux) past several horizontals to a slabby finish.

Descent: Jump (the water at the base is very deep).


Alcatraz

This is the imposing wall up and left of Moss Cliff (when viewed from the road). It's a steep (i.e., overhanging) wall with only six very difficult, high-quality routes, guarded by a difficult approach. The climbs are moderately cleaned, but still with an adventurous feel. Four of the six routes have been led, while the other three may need additional cleaning and perhaps some fixed protection before they can be led.

The left side of the cliff has a nice base area, but the right side is higher and exposed with slabs beneath you. The rock quality is excellent. Those that have visited report this as THE place for hard climbing.

Cliffe spent 8 days at here during the 2012 season. On more than one occasion, he "hucked himself off big cliffs" on the approach, luckily landing in the tops of trees. The approach has since been tamed with several fixed ropes.

In the fall of 2012, Cliffe introduced Matt McCormick to the cliff. He not only climbed The Great Escape, but he cleaned up some of the other lines as well, and further tamed the approach.

Directions: Approach Moss Cliff as normal [Page 324], which takes about 30 minutes. Continue up and left an additional 15 minutes. There is not much of a trail, so expect some bushwhacking. The final bit ascends a steep gully with several fixed lines 18T 587530 4910264.

Machine Gun Kelly   5.11+   G   100'   

The final 15' fingercrack is very photogenic, overhanging 5'. Could use some additional cleaning.

Start: Look for the prominent set of overhung finger cracks 75' downhill and left from The Great Escape. Begin at a fist-sized crack.

P1 5.11+ G: Go up the initial crack and duck under a pair of birch trees. Some layback moves lead to rotten rock under a roof. Make a tricky step left to gain an overhanging fingercrack which is followed to the top. 100'

The Great Escape   5.13b   G   105'   

Reported as "super cool" with the crux at the move into the final fingercrack. High-quality and clean, this route follows a slightly overhanging crack–seam in a shallow, left-facing corner.

Start: At the left edge of the main wall in the wide dihedral just left of Battle of Alcatraz. There are some trees growing out of it 25' up.

P1 5.13b G: Stem and chimney up the corner past a small cam placement to a bolt. Make a bouldery move right to a jug then up to a slot (gear). Punch it above the gear, then climb past 2 bolts to pull into the final, beautiful fingercrack. Fixed anchor. 105'

Gear: A small rack of finger-size cams 3 draws.

Battle of Alcatraz (aka BOA)   5.12b   G   105'   

Very clean with physical climbing and good rests.

Start: Just right of Armed Robbery at "B Block"—a system of corners and stem boxes.

P1 5.12b G: Go up the corners and break the roof at its highest point. Continue straight up a crack to its end. You can rap from the anchors on The Great Escape just to the left. 105'

The Godfather   5.12+   G   100'   

Amazing stemming guarded by some extremely thin moves.

Start: 10' down and right of Battle of Alcatraz at a crack.

P1 5.12+ G: Good holds lead to a square hole (the "missing cell") and then a ledge. Go up a series of thin face moves to gain a slightly-overhanging stem box. Make fun moves up the stem box with a crack on the left (V1) to gain a jug out left. Continue up a right-facing corner, then pull left around an arête. A final right-facing corner leads to the top. 100'

V1 Bookmaker's Variation 5.12+ TR : Clean, fun, and airy. At the top of the stem box, make a series of undercling moves right, then up discontinuous cracks to the top. This variation is prepared for leading, but awaits a redpoint; reported as sustained and a bit harder than the regular route.

Birdman Project

Great gear, clean except at the finish. Begin on the left side of the D Block Ledge at a left-facing corner. The "D block" acts as a cheater stone. Go up the corner until the crack fades. Move strenuously right around an arête, then up the arête and crack until you can transfer into a left-facing corner. Go past a "shark fin", then up dirty rock to the top. (It harder–but more classic–to move right before the "shark fin".) 80'

Scarface   5.12   R   120'   

Exposed, clean, fun, and full value. Falling at the crux would likely result in an upside-down fall.

Start: 35' below the right side of the D Block Ledge next to a right-facing corner. Look for discontinuous

cracks (or scars) 75' up from the start. There is a fixed anchor at the start.

P1 5.12 R: Up the crack to a stance out right and then past the D Block Ledge. (V1) Continue straight up the crack to the top. 120'

V1 Bootlegger Variation 5.11a G : 15' above the right side of D Block Ledge, move right and up a series of dirty cracks to the top.


Beer Walls

 The route Twelve-Step Program [Route #31, page 246] has been led at 5.12a. It's reported as a "piece of shit" with potato-chip jams, although the crux is clean.

 The route Center Stage is reportedly a high-quality route (*****). However, the bottom section is PG at best.


Pinnacle Mountain

Location: Between NY 30 and NY 10, east of Caroga Lake.

Aspect: East

Height: 100'

Quality: *

Approach: 40 min, moderate

Description: Roughly 140' wide and 100' tall, this sheer face is steep and split by two obvious lines: the left-facing corner of Bent Hickory, and the dramatic crack Release The Kraken that splits the steepest, smoothest part of the main wall.

The cliff is reminiscent of the steep section of Lost Hunters, except it's less featured. That said, there is potential for several more difficult lines. The base of the cliff is relatively flat, open, and pleasant. The approach requires blind bushwhacking (presently made easier by some flagging), and is mostly flat until the last 10 minutes.

Directions: From the east: locate the intersection of NY 30 and the Benson Road (CR 6) (0.0). Go west 5.8 miles to a T intersection, then go left (south) on CR 125. At 11.5 miles reach the intersection with Pinnacle Road on the right.

From the west: locate the intersection of NY 10 and NY 29A in Caroga Lake (0.0). Drive north on the combined NY10 / NY 29A for 0.8 mile, then turn right onto CR 112. At 5.5 miles, the road forks (CR 112 goes right); go straight on CR 125. At 7.3 miles reach the intersection with Pinnacle Road on the left.

From the intersection of CR 125 and Pinnacle Road (0.0), drive north on Pinnacle Road. At 1.2 miles the road turns to gravel and crosses a one-lane bridge. At 1.6 miles reach the end of the road, the trailhead for Chase Lake and County Line Lake 18T 0549516 4783982.

From the trailhead (0 hr 0 min), follow the red-marked trail towards Chase Lake. At 8 min (18T 0549912 4784347), turn left off the trail and follow a herd path northeast staying relatively level. At 36 min, reach a stream 18T 0550358 4785589; follow this uphill (west) to where it fades, then head west up the steep slope to the cliff at 40 min 18T 0550181 4785724. The herd path is presently (as of Aug 2012) marked with flagging.

Joy Crack   5.11b   G   35'   

Excellent steep crack climbing from hands to fingers that packs a wallop in its short length. It's best to belay from the top to keep the rope out of the crack.

Start: At the left end of the main face is a steep dirt cone that leads around a corner to a short wall. Make a move up the wall (easier without a pack) to a large ledge. Begin below the center of a head-high ledge with a block below a beautiful left-leaning crack. This is 15' left of the large corner of Inferiority Complex.

P1 5.11b G: Go up the crack to a wide pod. Continue with increasing difficulty to the top. There is a fixed anchor on a short wall just above. 35'

Gear: To 3".

Inferiority Complex   5.8   G   50'   

Start: On the ledge of Joy Crack, below the large corner with a handcrack on the wall just right of the corner.

P1 5.8 G: Climb the corner and crack to the top. 50'

Feeding The Rat   5.11c   G   60'   

Sustained finger jamming and technical laybacking.

Start: 25' uphill and left of the prominent left-facing corner of Bent Hickory and 5' right of an arête that forms the left end of the cliff, below a fingercrack in black rock that begins 20' up.

P1 5.11c G: Go up a steep face on crimps and incuts to a jug below the crack. Make a hard move to gain the crack (crux), then climb the crack to a ledge. 60'

Gear: To 1". Take a couple of 2" cams for the anchor.

Descent: Walk right 10' to the fixed anchor on Unnamed2.

Unnamed2   5.11a   G   60'   

A closed project; awaiting a free lead.

Start: Same as Feeding The Rat.

P1 5.11a G: Climb Feeding The Rat for 5' to the first bolt, then move rightwards across the face past another bolt to gain the bottom of a curving crack. Climb the crack to its top and mantel a ledge with a fixed anchor just above. 60'

Bent Hickory   5.11a   G   100'   

Start: Up and left of the low point of the terrain below a large, obvious, 5'-deep, left-facing corner.

P1 5.11a G: Climb the corner to where it leans dramatically left forming a roof–corner. Work out left under the roof–corner and break it on its left end. Easier climbing on the slab on the right leads to a fixed anchor. 100'

Shit! HiSir Needs Stitches   5.8   PG   45'   

Start: 5' right of the Bent Hickory corner below a shallow left-facing corner.

P1 5.8 PG: Up the corner that leans right and becomes a left-facing, orange flake. There is a fixed anchor at the top of the flake on the left. 45'

Release The Kraken   5.11c   G   100'   

An amazing, jaw-dropping crack that breaks a sheer, orange, overhanging wall. One of the finest crack lines of its grade in the Adirondack Park with a fine position, excellent rock, unique holds, and good rests. Not a move harder than .11b, but with a 5.12 pump. The top of the route is often wet.

Start: Just left of center of the low point of the terrain, below a right-leaning crack that runs the full height of the cliff (the only such crack to do so).

P1 5.11c G: Boulder up a short face and gain the crack. Go up the crack to near the top of the cliff. Angle left to finish in parallel cracks. There is a fixed anchor on a large tree set back from the edge. 100'

Gear: Nuts, triple cams to 1.5", 2 ea #3 Camalot.

Jug Monkey   5.11b   G   100'   

Start: Uphill and right of Release The Kraken at an upturned boulder, below the middle of three crack systems. The rightmost crack begins on the ground and goes up through a left-facing corner to a hanging oak tree.

P1 5.11b G: Move up to a bird-poop-stained hold, then make a hard move to gain an overhanging crack (#0.75 Camalot). Up the crack to grab a ledge, then layback up (#1 Camalot) onto the ledge. Move left to a jug, then up to a large ledge and thankful rest. Continue up easy rock to a crack, then make big moves on sidepulls and horizontals to a stance below parallel cracks. A couple layback moves up these cracks gain a fixed anchor. 100'

Gear: To 2".


Titusville Mountain

Aspect: Southeast

Height: 300'

Approach: 20 min, moderate

Description: This cliff lies just outside the northern boundary of the Adirondack Park in Titusville Mountain State Forest. The cliff sits in a beautiful setting high on Titusville Mountain with an unspoiled view. The rock is good quality and low-angled, offering good potential for long, traditionally-protected crack and slab climbs.

Decent: Rappel from the maple tree anchor at top of the Tomahawk Crack with a 70m rope to Tomahawk Ledge.

Directions: Locate the junction (0.0 mile) of NY 30 and Fayette Road (CR 41), about 24 miles north of Paul Smiths and 17.5 miles south of Malone. Go east on the Fayette Road, past the Upper Titus Mountain Ski Area. At 3.7 miles, turn right on Studdly Hill Road (aka Duane Road), just west of the dam in Chasm Falls. Go south on Studdly Hill Road, then, at 5.5 miles, turn right on Lee Road (aka Tamarack Trail) just past a cute little red house. The Lee Road is a seasonal road that turns into a 4WD trail. The first several miles to the parking are in relatively good condition; a 2WD vehicle can make the trip, but expect some lose gravel and overgrown sides. Lee Road makes a sharp turn left uphill, then levels off at a clearing where there is a good view of the cliff. This is also the parking for the hiking trail to top of the mountain. Continue on the road, gradually downhill, and cross a culvert where there is a beaver pond and another view of the cliff. At 7.5 miles, park at an obvious pull off on the right just uphill from the beaver pond.

Head into the woods behind the parking spot on a faint trail that follows an old logging road and blue flags. Do not follow the blue flags—they are hunting markings. 300' up the logging road head right and walk a few hundred yards through a wet area until you hit the small drainage that feeds the beaver pond. Follow this drainage upstream staying on its left. A low, moss-covered cliff band and talus field will start to appear. Stay low in the drainage and look for a series of cairns that head toward a short wall with horizontals. Continue up the talus field to some sketchy grass pulling and the toe of the cliff 18T 560348 4952492.

At the toe of the cliff, Titusville Express follows a rounded, low-angle buttress and provides access to Tomahawk Ledge, the starting point for the all the routes on the Tomahawk Wall. The Tomahawk Wall is a clean, dry face with good rock quality. It has a large tomahawk-shaped block perched on a horizontal in the middle of the wall with a perfect 60'-tall handcrack directly above it.

To the right of the toe the cliff, it is difficult to navigate with broken ledges that fade into the ravine. There is an ever-steepening, 300'-tall slab with water streaks that go up to a blocky headwall. The winter route Milking Time (M4 WI3+) is located here and follows the leftmost water streak. To the left of the toe is a nice 100'-tall wall with a comfortable base and sections of dry rock with route potential.

Titusville Express   5.9   R   100'   

An unusual start (A0), at least until a direct approach is worked out. This route provides access to Tomahawk Ledge where other routes begin.

Start: At the toe of the cliff with a large cherry tree on a ledge 25' up.

P1 5.9 R: Climb the tree, then bounce out the thin branches and make a dirty move to gain a left-rising crack. Climb this to an overlap, then follow another left-rising crack to an easy slab and a triangular ledge with a large pine tree—Tomahawk Ledge. 100'

Tomahawk Crack   5.6   G   125'   

Start: On Tomahawk Ledge. (Climb Titusville Express to gain this ledge.)

P1 5.6 G: Head straight up a stepped corner to a stance under a flake. Climb the solid flake to its end, then make a committing slab move to a stance under a tomahawk-shaped block. Move easily around the right side of the block and up to a perfect handcrack. At its top, foot traverse right to another short, fun, flaring crack to a slab move top out. 125'

The Chopping Block   5.8   G   60'   

A fun variation to approach the handcrack on Tomahawk Crack. Eventually this could be extended to make an entirely independent line.

Start: On Tomahawk Ledge. (Climb Titusville Express to gain this ledge.)

P1 5.8 G: Head left past a small maple to a series of folds in a left-facing corner. Make a well-protected move though the folds to a splitter crack and a fun pull up onto the left side of a tomahawk-shaped block beneath a short crack. Traverse right to join the Tomahawk Crack handcrack and finish on that route. 125'


Spruce Hill Crag

Day of Madness   5.8+   G   50'   

Start: 6' left of Rasputin [Route #19, page 273] at a small boulder on the ground below a fingercrack.

P1 5.8+ G: Follow the fingercrack to a layback flake 12' up. Up this awkwardly to gain a small ledge on the right. Follow the fingercrack to its top, then (V1) step left and friction up to an oak tree and dead pine. 50'

V1 5.10c G: Continue straight up into a second shallow fingercrack and follow this to the top.

Gear: Standard rack from small cams to 2".


Baby Dome

Location: North Hudson, at Northway Exit 29

Aspect: South

Height: 70'

Approach: 5 min, easy

Quality: *

Description: This small cliff is located on a tiny round-topped hill near the Northway (I-87). The short climbs are reasonably pleasant and worth the very easy approach.

Directions: Park on Blue Ridge Road (CR 84), just west of the Northway (I-87) Exit 29. Locate a path that starts near a culvert in the grassy shoulder on the north side of the road, 200' west of the Northway, and 70' east of a State Land sign (cairn). Enter the woods, and switchback up the steep bank. Go north across a flat area, and skirt a low area on the left (west) past a couple small boulders to reach the corner of the Baby Dome 18T 601378 4867536.

The approach brings you to the south corner of the dome. Walk left about 150' to access the top of the dome.

On the wall left off the approach are two left leaning diagonal crack lines.

Ankle Bruise   5.7   TR   50'

Not recommended. Just left of the approach are two left-leaning handcracks. This is the left-hand crack. Scramble up the crack, and then up the left-leaning rib of disintegrating rock. Stay clear of the base!

Well Now, That's Better   5.6   PG   65'   

Start: This is the right-hand of the two left-leaning cracks, about 50' left of the approach.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the crack past a large flake, then up the right side of the face to a small tree ledge. At the back of the ledge finish on a short black face. 65'

Dome Arête   5.5   PG   45'   

Start: Just right of the approach, at a face leading to a rounded arête.

P1 5.6 PG: Climb the face and blunt arête. 45'

Little Corner   5.4   G   40'

Start: 10' right of Dome Arête, below a small left-facing corner that begin 9' up.

P1 5.4 G: Climb the face and corner to another blunt arête. 40'

Easter's Bunny   5.5   TR   70'

From the approach path, walk right (southeast) around the hill for 300' to a low-angled slab. Begin right of the slab at a mossy arête with slanting ledges 25' up. Climb the mossy arête (first couple moves are hardest), then up steeper rock for a couple moves at the slanting ledges, and finish on low angled rock.


Azure Mountain

Walking Disaster   5.8   G   50'

Not recommended.

Start: At the dirty, left-facing corner between Urin Luck and Tangled Up in Azure [Routes #2 and #3, page 599], the only feature between the two routes.

P1 5.8 G: Up the dirty crack to a much cleaner crack above. Anchor shared with Urin Luck.


Santa Clara Tract

 Beginning in the fall of 2012, the cliffs in the Santa Clara Tract [page 603]—Deer Pass, County Line Mountain, Lost Key Crag—are now open to the public year round. Previous to this, access was prohibited during Northern Zone big-game season—from the next-to-last Saturday in October through the first Sunday in December. As always, stay clear of any hunting camps. More info is available on the DEC web site.


The Peasant Crags

Location: South side of NY 73, accessed from the Round Pond Trailhead.

Aspect: South

Elevation: 2500'

Height: 50'–100'

Approach: 1 hr, moderate

Quality: **

Description: From the Chapel Pond pullout, Round Mountain is the cliff-covered land mass that you gaze at across Chapel Pond. These north-facing slopes are home to the King Wall, Chapel Pond Slab, and the Gully Cliff, as well as most of the ice climbing in Chapel Pond Pass. The Peasant Crags are located on opposite (south) side of Round Mountain in a hidden valley; they cannot be seen from any trail or road. The Peasant Crags are smaller and harder to get to than those above Chapel Pond, but this guarantees solitude and some great views.

Directions: Park at the Round Pond Trailhead [same as for First Lead Slab, page 162], at a paved pullout 1.0 mile from Chapel Pond Pullout (when driving toward Malfunction Junction) and 3.1 miles from Malfunction Junction (when driving towards Chapel Pond) 18T 601531 4887257.

From the trailhead (0 hr 0 min), follow the Dix Mountain trail (blue markers) past Round Pond to the height of land 18T 600143 4886278 at 40 min. This is about 1.6 miles from the trailhead. Continue for 75' past the height of land to a flat spot, then turn right on a bearing of 300º for 100' to a small boulder. A cairn hidden on the back side of this boulder marks the start of the preexisting herd path. Follow the path easily through open woods and merge with a little brook that drains this valley. At 43 min, you will begin to see rock on the right. More rock is visible at 49 min. At 52 min reach an open area; the Gateway Crag is visible on your right. A cairn on a talus boulder marks this crag.

Continue past the Gateway Crag to where the path reaches a small tributary at 53 min. Cross this at a cairn. Walk uphill along the tributary to a downed birch tree; step over this, then turn left into the woods. Continue along the path uphill, then flat to the base of The Citadel at 1 hr 3 min 18T 599796 4886756.


Peasant Crags: The Gateway Crag

This complex cliff has potential for several routes, and has not yet been developed.


Peasant Crags: The Citadel

This is a fortress-like formation, with a long, right-rising extension reminiscent of the Live Free or Die area of the Lower Beer Wall. The climbing here is scenic with wonderful views from the tops of the climbs, and the rock is textured and grippy.

The approach brings you to the south prow of the formation, where the obvious ramp of Peasant's Toehold is easily identified. Moving left from this prow is a steep wall that continues for 60' to a wet corner, then a section of easier, broken rock. Right of the prow the wall goes upslope, rising above a rocky streambed for 350' in length. There are additional routes to be climbed on this formation.

The only practical approach to the top of the formation is a break in the cliff 215' right of the prow.

Descent: Best to rappel for most routes.

Storming the Tower   5.6   G   100'   

Start: At a broken, right-facing corner, 20' right of the wet corner (mentioned in the cliff description) and below a right-facing red dihedral. This is 20' left of an obvious diving board 40' up.

P1 5.6 G: Climb to the right-facing dihedral and up to a ledge. Continue up lower-angled rock to a shallow, vertical corner capped by a small overhang. Move up over this to a superb rectangular ledge, then up a little further to the top of the formation. 100'

Peasant's Toehold   5.6+   G   75'   

Start: At the base on a ramp on the south prow of the formation.

P1 5.6+ G: Climb the ramp, step right around large roofs 10' up, and at 40' reach a stunted birch. Continue up the corner to its end, then step around right and finish on easier rock. Walk back 40' to trees. 75'

Guillotine   5.9   TR   55'   

Begin 25' right of Peasant's Toehold at a short crack right of a large "nose" in black rock. There is a large roof 30' up broken in the center by a pair of cracks about 3' apart. Climb the crack and nose to a stance. (Go up and left from here to join Peasant's Toehold, 5.4.) Follow the pair of cracks through the large roof, then up easier rock to the same finish ledge as Peasant's Toehold.

Bastille Day   5.5   TR   55'

Begin 10' right of Guillotine at a system of steps and slashes in the black rock. Climb straight up past the right end of the large roof of Guillotine to the same finishing ledge as Peasant's Toehold.

Malfeasance   5.6   G   95'   

Start: 150' right of Bastille Day (and past a lower, broken section) is the walk-up—a break in the cliff used to access the top. Hanging above the base of the walk-up is a wavy, low-angled fingercrack, 5' left of a brushy, right-facing corner capped by an offset roof.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack, then step right and climb through the offset roof to a fixed anchor at a lone pine tree. 95'

Armistice   5.6   G   65'   

Start: 100' right of Malfeasance (and past a low-angled section) at a final steep wall with a fingercrack.

P1 5.6 G: Climb the steep crack that's easier than it looks due to the excellent rock. Continue to the top on lower-angled rock. 65'


Spectacle Ponds Cliff

Location: South of NY 8 accessed from Northway Exit 25 near Brant Lake

Aspect: West

Height: 80' - 250'

Approach: 33 minutes, moderate

Quality: *

Description: There is a large and complex array of rock on the hillside overlooking Spectacle Ponds, about 1000' wide. The general quality of the rock is good, with some unusual geology. The cliff is best described in three sections: Left End, Main Section Left (left of a waterfall), and Main Section Right (right of the waterfall).

Directions: From Northway (I-87) Exit 25 (0.0 mile), follow NY 8 east past Brant Lake. At 11.4 miles, locate a pullout on the left (north) side of the road with an old sign for the Joseph Dixon Forest. Park here, being careful not to block the forest road. (This is about 1 mile west of the height of land at North Pond.)

Walk back west about 150' along the south side of NY 8, and locate the obviously blazed property line, which serves as a handrail for part of the approach 18T 612691 4843214.

Walk down the rip rap bank to Swede Pond Brook (there is a nice swimming spot right here, and more further downstream). Cross the brook (easy one hop in low water; may need to wade in the spring), and continue south following the property line through open woods as it slabs over a small hill. At 10 min reach a small brook. Angle left and walk along the brook upstream generally southeast to reach a tributary at 13 min. At the tributary, follow cairns on a straight route on a bearing of 110º; climb very gently, then descend to reach an old forest path at 20 min. Cross the old forest path and continue straight through a low area, and then over two gentle rises to the base of the talus of the Main Section Left 18T 613335 4842474.

The cliff area is so large that it's difficult to miss. The Left End rises above a large, dramatic, open field of talus. Moving right from the Left End is a break where the cliff draws uphill and becomes a little lower; in this area is an excellent, heavily traveled deer path that climbs up and right, providing the best walking access up and down the hill.

Right of the break in the cliff is the Main Section Left. This section features moderate climbs and interesting formations. Right of this is a wide, seasonal waterfall with an obvious "bomb zone" ice meadow at its base. Main Section Right is to the right of the waterfall, and is where the cliff reaches its greatest height in a dramatic series of arêtes and corners.

Descent: It's a fairly long hike down from much of the cliff; rappel is the best option which, in some cases, requires two ropes.


Spectacle Ponds Cliff: Left End

The Left End by itself is a large and complex cliff. The center of the Left End is above the top left corner of the talus, and features a large broken alcove about 100' high, which is wet in the spring. Left of this is a second alcove with a razor cut finger crack; a friction slab; and finally an old slide path. Right of the central alcove is an enormous right-facing corner with sloping ledges at its base and an overhanging wall above. Right of this is additional rock, not yet explored. The Left End has potential for numerous routes.


Spectacle Ponds Cliff: Main Section Left

Söt Torn   5.6   G   75'   

Start: At the toe of a blocky tower 75' left of the waterfall.

P1 5.6 G: Climb up and left a few steps, then go straight past the right end of a blocky overhang to the top of the blocky tower. There is a fixed anchor on a birch tree a few yards uphill. 75'


Spectacle Ponds Cliff: Main Section Right

Lakeview Arête   5.8-   G   250'   

Start: At a blunt arête with horizontal cracks and unusual protrusions, directly below a large spruce, about 200' right of the waterfall. A small cairn marks the start.

P1 5.8- G: Climb the blunt arête past a technical balance crux at the low roof, through some ledges and up a complex dihedral to the spruce tree. 100'

P2 4th Class: Step right from the tree and scramble up the blunt, loose arête to a small oak. 50'

P3 5.4 G: Step right from the oak and climb the corner and complex arête to the top. High on this pitch, enjoy the unexpected view of Lake George to climber's right. 100'

Descent: Walk 50' left to a fixed anchor on a large tree branch. 120' rappel over wooded ledges to a fine, flat mossy ledge. A fixed anchor on a tree at climber's right of this ledge provides a second 120' rappel down a brushy gully to the ground.