Last updated: Sep 27, 2016
The following new routes (346) and notes (130) have been compiled for 163 areas. This supplements the information in the second edition of Adirondack Rock. To contribute updates or new routes, simply email us (Jim or Jeremy) with your information.
Note: We are saving some content for the next edition, including first ascent data, cliff and route histories, maps, topos, and cliff photos. However, when reporting new routes, please include this information.
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Click here for the newroutes page that accompanied the first edtion.
Click here for a summary of the 2014 and 2015 seasons.
Aquarium, The (1)
Ark Wall (2)
Beyond, The (2)
Bikini Atoll (3)
Cedar River Crag (6)
Dannemora Wall (1)
Devil's Washdish (1)
Eagle Falls (6)
Goodman Mountain (3)
Lake Lila (1)
Middle Sister (1)
Padanarum Cliff (2)
Ragged Mountain (9)
Ranney Cliffs (5)
Shanty Cliff (1)
South Colton (1)
Split Rock Cliff (5)
Statebrook: Left End (10)
Wild Pines (1)
Sausalito 5.10d PG 100'
[Between routes #8 and #10, volume 1, page 157]
Climbs the face and small crack between Warpath and Bandito. A little contrived in that you have to purposefully avoid Warpath for gear and holds.
Start: Same as Bandito.
P1 5.10d PG: Climb Bandito past its bolt, then move left and follow a faint crack and face holds to a roof. Over this (crux), then up a crack with a couple horizontals to the fixed anchor of Warpath. 100'
Location: Near the intersection of US 9 and NY 72 (Malfunction Junction), accessed from Exit 30.
Approach: 10 min, easy
Summary: Four tiny walls, very close to the road, with several exploratory routes.
The Boquet Ridge Cliffs are four small cliffs facing away from US 9 on a small ridge. They are short, steep, and offer a few lead routes and some toproping.
Directions: Park on the wide shoulder of US 9, 1.0 mile north of Malfunction Junction, near the utility pole 3316A 606161,4885358 (0 hr 0 min). Walk 40' south of the pole and enter the woods at an opening cleared by surveyors. Walk steeply uphill for a few feet, then follow a gently open valley southeast to the height of land. At 4 min, turn to the right (southwest). At 8 min reach the first, rightmost cliff cleverly named Cliff #1 606117,4885114. Walk left along the base to Cliff #2, Cliff #3, and finally Cliff #4.
This cliff is just left of Cliff #3 and is about 40' tall. On the right end is a series of right-facing corners and a large roof. 20' left of this are a pair of overhanging cracks separated by a mattress-sized block. 20' further left is a steep, left-leaning crack.
Twin Cracks (project)
A closed project of Rhonda and Sabrina. Begin 18' left of On Bee on the left side of a low overhang formed by a mattress-sized block. Go up a crack on the left side of the mattress to the top of the block, then up into a stem box that leads to the top. 30'
On Bee 5.8+ G 35' ★
Start: Near the right end of the cliff, under the left end of the large roof, below a pod 5' up.
P1 5.8+ G: Get onto the pod, then up right-facing flakes to a platform. Step left and climb a crack to the top. 35'
Gear: A large cam (4" or 5") is helpful about 10' up.
This diamond-shaped cliff is 40' tall and separated from Cliff #2 by a tight, steep, wooded gully. At the highest point on the cliff is a system of short, curved cracks which look like "somebody stuck a butter knife into the cliff while it was soft."
Butter Knife (project)
A closed project of Rhonda and Sabrina. Begin 36' left of Journey below a system of right-leaning cracks and slots, and below a shallow, wide crack just below the top of the cliff. Go up the slots and cracks to the wide crack. Go past the wide crack on its left side to the top.
Journey 5.8 G 50'
Start: 10' left of the right end of the cliff (and left of the steep wooded gully that separates Cliff #3 and Cliff #4), below a 5'-tall right-facing corner 5' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb up into the corner, then go left along a long left-rising traverse. Run it out up easier rock to the top. 50'
This cliff is wider and taller than Cliff #1. There is a large right-facing corner on its right end, and a broken up right of that. 20' left of the right-facing corner are some large, right-facing flakes.
Grunt 5.10 TR 40'
Begin 20' left of Loose below a large right-facing flake that goes half-way up the cliff. Go up the flakes via strenuous laybacks and sidepulls and finish up the steep face above.
Loose 5.5 G 35'
Go up 10', then more up and right to scary left-facing, broken flakes.
Start: Near the right end, at a large right-facing corner, the base of which is formed by a 12'-tall tower with P1 5.5 G: Go up 10', then move up and right to scary, left-facing, broken flakes. Follow these to the top. 35'
This is the smallest of the four cliffs, and the first one you reach on the approach. It's 35' tall and very steep. There is a right-facing corner and large roof on its right end.
❏Life's a Beach [route #1, volume 1, page 198] has been cleaned and an anchor installed, shared with these new routes.
Hang Ten 5.9+ G 65' ★★★
Start: 10' left of Surfs Up below good ledges.
P1 5.9+ G: Go up and right on ledges, then step left and go up steep rock to a left-leaning crack. Follow the left-leaning crack over a bulge (crux), then up a steep face past several horizontals to the top. 65'
Gear: Nuts and cams up to 3".
Surfs Up 5.10d PG 65' ★★★
Start: 10' left of Life's a Beach below a jug 7' up, and a ledge 10' up.
P1 5.10d PG: Gain the ledge, then go straight up on narrow ledges to a bulge split by a left-leaning crack. Go over the bulge at the crack, then go straight up the face (bolt) to another left-leaning crack, move right onto the face past another bolt (crux) to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Hang Ten and Life's a Beach. 65'
Gear: Small cams to #1 Camalot.
Life's a Beach 5.9 PG 60'
[route #1, volume 1, page 198] More of a face climb with a seam than a fingercrack.
A Path in the Wilderness (4th class X) 5.3 G 1090' ★
A good route to enjoy a unique view on Avalanche Pass from above. Easier and not as varied as the Colden Slide route.
Start: Same as Colden Slide [route #14, volume 1, page 517].
P1 5.3 G: Go straight up using flakes to an overlap below and left of a large tree island. 200'
P2 5.1 G: Climb up and right to the top of tree island. 90'
P3 4th class: Go straight up with no protection. When the angle lessens, go left to another belay at a flake. 200'
P4 5.1 R: Climb a narrow section of rock between two tree islands past a couple of overlaps, then go left to another tree island. 200'
P5 3rd class: Go up slab with no protection to another tree island. 200'
P6 4th class: Climb toward a band of trees that block the upper part of the mountain, then go left below the trees toward its end to another belay. No protection. 200'
Gear: Up to 4".
Descent: Make two 30m rappels into the Trap Dike.
Wine Bottle 5.7 R 2150' ★★★★
Like Colden Slide [route #14, volume 1, page 517], Wine Bottle offers spectacular climbing on exposed technical terrain. The climb is better, steeper on some pitches and considerably more diverse than Colden Slide. The rock is excellent quality, surprisingly clean in most sections, and quite diverse with extended pitches of technical slab climbing, cliff bands, a small fracture cave and a bouldery 5.7 move at the top. Many parties will prefer to simul-climb and belay only brief difficult sections.
Start: Approach as for Trap Dike [route #9, volume 1, page 515], but stop at the southern end of Avalanche Lake. Follow a faint herd path southeast to a drainage and up to the slide, about 250' from the lake. Begin at a position with a large buttress to the left and a cliffs to the right 582492,4886867. This slide (and the start) can be seen on the right side of the photo in the second edition of Adirondack Rock, volume 1, page 514.
Route Description: Climb up the lower wall staying right of the obvious buttress on the left side (5.2). Divots, pockets, flakes, cracks and edges offer a variety of options and good gear. Above this is the central section of the route—a 400'-wide slab with expansive view of the lakes. Scramble 450' up the center of the unprotected slab to a 5'-tall overlap. Climb the overlap (5.4) and head slightly left up 4th-class ledges with plentiful holds and edges. Traverse back right toward the right side of the slide under a large tree island below a 25'-tall cliff that spans the slide. Climb a left-rising ramp to a terrace. Walk left and crawl through a crevice. Climb up to another terrace and walk to a 15'-tall overhanging cliff. Traverse left to obvious cracks (5.7, crux) and climb these to a low-angled slab, which is followed to the top. To exit, bushwhack left 250' to a narrow slide (known as Rolling Rock) and follow this to the balanced rock on the summit.
❏V1 (Avalauncher) of Dorsal Fin [volume 1, page 523] should be ★★.
These routes are located on a small wall above The Fin, directly above the route Dorsal Fin [route #25, volume 1, page 523]. To reach the ledge above The Fin, climb a grungy pitch just right of the start of Something Wicked [route #18, volume 1, page 520]. Once on the ledge, bushwhack right to the base of the wall. Bushwhacking is easiest if you hug the base of the wall.
There are four cracks on this face, two of which have been climbed.
Descent: To descend from the base of this wall, rappel from a fixed anchor at the top of Affliction [route #21, volume 1, page 522] with a 70m rope.
Knot Punny 5.10a G 30'
This is the leftmost (and cleanest) of the four cracks on this face. Really fun, but really short.
Start: From the center of the wall, walk left on a left-rising tree ledge to the base of the crack.
P1 5.10a G: Climb the crack to the top. Lower from a cedar. 30'
Lichen Life 5.8 G 40' ★★
The most obvious line when viewed from across the lake, and perhaps the most worthwhile. Steep and sustained for the grade. With some scrubbing this would be a 4-star route (would it not be for the middle-of-nowhere location and grungy approach).
Start: This is the third crack from the left.
P1 5.8 G: Climb the crack to the top. 40'
There's been quite a bit of activity here since the second edition [volume 1, page 150]. The cliff has yielded some excellent, hard routes. Unfortunately, there are no easy warmups.
The cliff is now divided into two sections. The far left end is known as The Amphitheater and is capped by an enormous 25'-deep horizontal roof. The wall is overhanging, stays mostly dry in the rain, and has a shady base, so it's good for hot days. The right end of the cliff is the Main Face. There is a wide terrace that splits the cliff into an upper and lower section. The upper section overhangs 35 degrees and is where the routes are located. The Main Face and terrace stay totally dry in the rain, and it's sunny here in the afternoons.
Directions: There is now a good path to this area, reducing the approach to about 45 min. From the base of Springtime [route #2, volume 1, page 149], walk away from the cliff on a good path to some open slabs. Turn left and walk through some trees to another open slab area. Follow this south parallel to the highway, down a steep slope, and onto the west side of a beaver swamp. Traverse around the edge of the swamp to the south end, then go directly south through a narrow canyon paralleling the Northway. At the other end of the canyon pick up a trail that heads southwest, then west. The trail crosses a seasonal stream, then some open slabs, then meets the stream again at a waterfall. Go up the waterfall and continue west to a narrow, boulder-filled canyon just before the height of land. The Main Face is just above you to the right.
Directions: From the Main Face, walk left along the base of the cliff to a beautiful amphitheater capped by a dramatic, 25'-tall roof.
The Fountainhead 5.11d G 60' ★★★★★
This begs-to-be-climbed line breaks the 20'-deep horizontal roof on its left side. May help to be short. This is the biggest horizontal roof with a free route in the Adirondack Park.
Start: Below the left side of the enormous roof, at a bulging face.
P1 5.11d G: Go up the bulging face to a white boulder jammed under the roof (despite appearances, this boulder is solid). Up this to an amazing roof-crack in an offset corner. Undercling left out over the void with increasing difficulty to the lip of the roof. Break the roof and climb another 6' to a fixed anchor. 60'
Gear: Single set of cams from yellow Alien to #2 Camalot. Once you clip the anchor, place a directional to keep the rope out of the crack.
Judgement Day 5.12b G 80' ★★★★
This thuggy, gymnastic, technical line breaks through the roof on its right side. Hand tape and a right knee pad help.
Start: On the right side of the enormous roof, just left of a deep, dirty, V-corner.
● P1 5.12b G: Stick clip, then boulder onto the orange face and climb shallow, left-leaning cracks up the overhanging wall to the roof. Rail right 6' to the right side of a chockstone, then make powerful moves up to a layback flake (crux). Layback desperately up the flake to a great jug at its top, then make hard moves left to good holds. Move up to the left side of an overlap, then climb up and right (easier, runout) to a fixed anchor. 80'
Ain't No Thang 5.12a G 70' ★★★★
An incredible, sustained journey up a black, overhanging wall with a little bit of everything: jugs, heel hooks, jamming, and big moves between crimps. Hand tape (up to your elbows) and a right knee pad help.
Start: Begin on the right side of the amphitheater, just left of where the terrain rises steeply to the right, at a left-rising flake on an overhanging wall.
◉ P1 5.12a G: Follow the rail up and left to where it meets a right-leaning offwidth crack. Go up the offwidth using jammed chockstones to an alcove, then jam straight left using a horizontal handcrack (#1 Camalot). At its end, layback up to a huge jug (crux), then go straight up the overhanging wall to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: 1 ea #1 Camalot. If you really want to sew it up, a #2 and #3 Camalots can also be used.
Second-Hand Lichen 5.8 G 60' ★★
Noteworthy in that it is (by far) the easiest route at the cliff.
Start: 50' from the left end of the most overhanging section of the wall at a left-facing, right-leaning ramp with good cracks in the corner.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the crack in the corner of the ramp to a roof. Step left over the roof and climb another crack to the top of the ramp. (A well-placed piece helps keep the rope out of the crack here.) Continue straight up to the top. Wall left to descend a gully. 60'
Off the Couch 5.13c G 50' ★★★★★
This masterpiece climbs an unlikely sheer wall that overhangs 35 degrees. Three distinct cruxes.
Start: Locate Crown Crack, the left-leaning crack that begins on the terrace that divides the right end of the cliff. Begin 15' left of the crack just left of two flat boulders and below a shallow overlap 7' up.
◉ P1 5.13c G: Stick clip. Undercling up into the overlap, then use sidepulls to gain a good ledge. Move up to the next horizontal and rail left to a good hand jam. Go straight up to a rail, then up to a flake (#0.3 Camalot critical). Go up the crack (shared with Crown Crack) to a ledge. There's a fixed anchor just above. 50'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3 Camalot.
Crown Crack A2 0'
[route #1, volume 1, page 150]
The Warmup 5.13c A0 45' ★★★★★
Closed project. Another pump-fest up the most overhanging section of The Crown. This one lacks any rests.
Start: 6' right of Crown Crack at an obvious left-leaning layback flake in black rock.
● P1 5.13c A0: Stick clip, then go up the layback flake to its top. Shift right and climb a black streak to a rail. Go up and right along the rail, then straight up to a fixed anchor over the top. 45'
Over The Edge 5.6 G 60'
Start: On the right end of the terrace.
P1 5.6 G: Scramble up boulders to the arête that forms the right end of the wall. Climb the face just right of the arête to the beautiful, open summit area. 60'
This small, 75'-wide canyon is in the same drainage as The Crown, but much further east 605172,4880656. The main cliff is narrow, overhanging, and about 70' tall. Across the canyon is another cliff, mostly dirty, with a single, cleaned swath of excellent stone; the route Jennafactor is here.
Directions: From the waterfall, follow the cliffline left into a gully. Walk up to the head of the gully, over some boulders, and into a tiny canyon. The main cliff is on the right, facing southwest.
Jennafactor 5.7 G 70' ★★
Great holds on this one.
Start: Directly across the canyon from Poster Boy at the base of a cleaned slab.
● P1 5.7 G: Go directly up the slab to a fixed anchor. 70'
Poster Boy 5.10b G 70' ★★★
The first route here, and a good warmup for other routes at The Crown.
Start: In the center of the face below the left end of a left-facing, right-leaning corner that begins 12' up. This leaning corner defines the left edge of the overhanging wall of Stone Cold.
● P1 5.10b G: Make some insecure palm-slapping friction moves to gain the ramp. Go up the ramp to near its top, then step left and climb an overhanging wall to its top. Mantel onto a slab (crux) and up to a fixed anchor at the very top of the wall. 70'
Stone Cold 5.12c G 55' ★★★
A direct route up the smooth, overhanging main wall. Requires powerful pulling on good edges.
Start: 15' right of Poster Boy below the main, overhanging wall, and just left of a dirty depression.
● P1 5.12c G: Mantel up into a scoop below the overhanging wall. Shuffle right, then back left on two rails. From the rails, go straight up to the top of the face, and onto a ledge at the top. Continue up the slab to a fixed anchor shared with The Bionic Woman. 55'
The Bionic Woman 5.10a G 60' ★★
A one-move wonder, but oh, what a move.
Start: On the right side of a blunt, crack-riddled arête, just right of a large tree pasted against the rock 2' above the ground.
P1 5.10a G: Go up and left behind the tree to the arête, and climb this to a wide ramp. Go up the ramp a few feet to a horizontal on the left wall. Traverse wildly left and mantel up (bolt, crux) onto a ledge. Continue up the face to a fixed anchor (shared with Stone Cold). 60'
Gear: To 2".
Location: Near the Northway (I-87) Exit 30.
Approach: 1 hr 10 min, difficult
Summary: Two high-quality climbs in a quiet, remote setting.
As the name suggests, The Beyond is farther than everything else...farther than King Philips Spring Wall, the Highway Blues Slab, Steve Austin, and The Crown. It's located in a quiet, remote valley southwest of The Crown and has beautiful views of the rocky east-facing flanks of Spotted Mountain and East Dix (now Grace Peak).
The cliff is broken up and wide. The routes are located on the highest section of rock, below and left of a left-rising, stepped overhang that breaks the cliff a third of the way up. The rock here is excellent with that High Peaks coarseness (reminiscent of Wright Peak), and many excellent hidden horizontals for gear. There is limited potential for additional routes.
Directions: From the Amphitheater at the left end of The Crown, walk west 200' out of the canyon 604799,4881041. Bushwhack southwest on a bearing of 245°. Visibility is limited, and, once out of the canyon, the terrain is gently rising, but the hardwood forest is relatively open. After 20 min arrive at a remarkable 40'-tall, egg-shaped boulder perched on a slab near the summit 604328,4880796. Just beyond the boulder, and below you is the cliff. Walk downhill staying skiers left of the cliff until you can break right under the main face 604117,4880716, about 25 min from The Crown.
Land of Snake Believe 5.9 G 80' ★★★
Excellent climbing, great gear, impeccable rock. Named for the snakeskins found in just about every horizontal crack on the cliff.
Start: On the left side of the face, just where the terrain rises steeply uphill, is a hidden left-leaning crack that runs nearly the full height of the cliff. Begin 10' right at a smaller left-leaning crack–flake that leads to a 10'-high, right-facing corner that leans 45° to the right.
P1 5.9 G: Go up the left-leaning crack past some blocks to the base of the 45° leaning corner. Step left onto the face and climb straight up a series of left-facing flakes and horizontal cracks to a bulging overlap. Layback up the right side of the bulge (crux) to excellent horizontals. Continue up an easy slab to a comfy bench-seat ledge. There's good gear here, or you can scramble up further to anchor on trees. 80'
Above and Beyond 5.11a G 80' ★★★
Another excellent and unlikely line. Harder if you're under 6' 4".
Start: 15' right of Land of Snake Believe below a slab, just right a white pine tree growing next to the cliff.
P1 5.11a G: Make a couple slab moves to gain a good stance on a shelf (small TCUs here). Continue up through a couple overlaps to a shallow left-facing corner. Up this, then reach right to a smaller left-facing corner and mantel up onto the slopers at its top. Make a few face moves up and right to some sidepulls, then go back left and make a hard barn-door move up to jugs (bolt, crux) and good horizontals. Follow a low-angle left-facing corner to the top. 80'
Revelations 5.8+ X 600' ★★★
The route incorporates one of the most distinguishable features on Marcy's East Face, an 80'-tall arrowhead-looking flake near the bottom center. The route is a deceptively foreshortened and stout adventure climb featuring textured face climbing, layback cracks and a scary, unprotected start on P3. The first ascent was accomplished as day-hiked from the Keene Valley in just under 22 hours with a night exit through the northern talus field.
Start: At the lowest section of slab below the arrowhead flake 75' right of Ranger on the Rock [route #9, volume 1, page 501].
P1 5.7 PG (5.1 R): Run up the easy slab to a right-rising, grassy crack. Follow this to a right-rising overlap with a handcrack underneath. Follow the overlap to its end, then traverse right to a 4" crack at the bottom of the arrowhead flake. Climb past a small tree-island and belay. 190'
P2 5.5 PG: Climb the flake to its top. Follow right-rising cracks and face to the left side of a tree island under a large, nearly-vertical overlap. Belay from small crack under overlap. 130'
P3 5.8+ X: Step right behind tree island and climb a featured face for 40' to the first gear (5.8+). Avoid the appealing dihedral/detached block to the right. Continue up easier face over several overlaps toward the two obvious huge blocks. Make a sketchy traverse under the right-hand block to a right-facing corner and belay. 140'
P4 5.5 PG: Continue up the right-facing corner with an offwidth beneath to easier dimpled slab. Drift left to the end of broken ledges at its top. Continue up two small ledges and belay from stout trees at the base of the upper cliff band. 140'
Descent: Same as Ranger on the Rock.
Gear: Doubles of mid-size and large cams. Yellow and green Aliens are helpful.
Just left of the Agharta Wall [volume 1, page 499] is this unique feature—a deep rectangular depression about 200' tall, marking the left end of Mt Marcy's highest cliffs. Just left of this wall is Twin Fracture Gully, where you can replenish your water.
Predatory Instincts 5.9 PG (5.6 R) 450' ★★★
Climbs an edgy technical slab, slightly overhanging finger- and hand-cracks in the left wall of the Huge Scoop, and breaks through the roofs above the Huge Scoop.
Start: 20' uphill and left of Rumours of War, on top of a 4'-tall "pancake" flake.
P1 5.6 R: Climb slab to the first gear 40' up. Continue to left-rising seam and follow it through a small overhang. Belay 30' below headwall where the slab steepens below the first obvious overhanging crack from the left corner of headwall. 150'
P2 5.9 PG: Traverse left to the right-facing wall with twin chocolate-colored cracks—"double chocolate love" to quote Schneider. Gain cracks and climb to their top. Step left onto face at chockstone and belay from horizontal crack below a tree island. 75'
P3 5.8 PG: Step right and climb diagonally up and right over an overlap and up to a 5'-tall left-facing corner with finger crack. Climb right to another crack and follow to roof and left-facing corner. Break through roof via a handcrack and climb to top of a tree island; belay from crack under a roof. 175'
P4 5.8 PG: Drift slightly right and climb a left-facing corner with a handcrack and horizontals to low angle chossy slab. Take care of loose flakes. Climb to the right of a large tree island and belay from trees at the top. 50'
Descent: Rappel along right side of Twin Fracture Gully.
Rumours of War 5.9 G (5.2 R) 405'
This route ascends the slab and crack in the center of the Huge Scoop. It offers a slab, a vertical handcrack, an offwidth crack, and a chimney.
Start: From Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald, follow the cliff left for 5 min to the center of the Huge Scoop. The lower slab is divided into two halves by a left-facing corner; begin to the left of this corner.
P1 5.5 G: Climb slab along left-facing corner to a grassy ledge 20' below the steep wall at the top of the scoop. 180'
P2 5.9 G (5.2 R): Climb a handcrack to an offwidth crack. Step right with awkward move to a fingercrack. Follow up to loose-looking blocks and climb lower-angle runout slab to a grassy ledge. Belay from crack above. 75'
P3 5.7 G: Step right over a corner to a shallow left-rising rail; follow this to a right-facing corner. Continue up to an offwidth chimney with handcrack in back. Go up this, then exit to left-facing corner. Continue up a vertical crack, then up a low-angle slab to the top. 150'
Gear: To 4".
Descent: Rappel with double ropes into Twin Fracture Gully.
The Pride 5.9- G 560' ★★★★
One of the gems of Panther Gorge: clean stone, diverse climbing, a multi-tiered roof system, and a splitter handcrack.
Start: In the center of the lowest section of slab on the right-hand side The Huge Scoop.
P1 5.7 G: Climb a black slab to a thin crack and follow this for 40' to a horizontal crack. Go up a right-rising ledge to the huge corner that forms the right side of the Huge Scoop. Move up the corner and belay under small roofs. 200'
P2 5.9- G: Continue up the huge corner to the dominant roof system. Move left 20' to a vertical crack and climb up below a cantilevered block—the "Dong of Death" (don't touch it)—, then go back right to the corner. Climb through the multi-tiered roof to the lip (critical protection above lip), then traverse right 7' to a handcrack and climb to its top. Follow a crack right and belay. 110'
P3 5.7 G: Move right and climb a short left-facing corner, then up a slab to large left-facing corner. Climb to the top of the corner, then drift left and belay at tree left of the P3 chimney of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. 170'
P4 5.7 G: Climb cracks for 30', then break right for 50' through 5th class krummholz to belay at top of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. 80'
Gear: Standard rack plus an optional #5 Camalot. Double 70m ropes recommended.
Descent: Rappel Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald 5.8+ PG 470' ★★★★
Ascends a cerebral line on the face on the buttress right of a huge square scoop at the left side of the Agharta Wall.
Start: From The Cloudsplitter [route #2, volume 1, page 500], walk left for 5 minutes to a drainage below the right side of the huge square scoop. Ascend to a small vegetated bench at the bottom left side of the face below the flake and buttress on the right side of the scoop.
P1 5.8+ PG: Face climb to a series of three open books on the left side of the face. Go up a handcrack in the third open book to its top (#2 Camalot), then make tricky moves (crux) with gear at your feet to a seam (yellow Alien). Traverse to a handcrack leading to a small roof. Break through the roof using the left of two vertical cracks. Move right to a right-leaning crack with two alders. Follow this past loose blocks to an offwidth. Go up the offwidth until it leans left. Traverse right 6' and belay from a 6" ledge with horizontal cracks just above. 150'
P2 5.7 PG: Go back 6' left to the offwidth, then continue up the left-leaning offwidth to lower-angle slab with a series of fistcracks. Follow the face to a steeper bulge at about 110'. Climb it and go slightly right above a large tree island to an obvious left-arching bulge with dominant overlaps. 160'
P3 5.7 PG: Break through the bulge on the right and face climb up and left toward an obvious chimney in the upper cliffs. Go through bushes and climb on grungy stone to the bottom of the chimney. Climb the corner up to a small slab to finish. Alternate exit if too wet: step over a corner to cleaner rock on the wall immediately the right of the chimney. Belay from trees above. 160'
Descent: Rappel the route.
Watery Grave 5.10a TR 170'
Start between Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald and CrazyDog's Halo at a short right-rising ramp on a smooth face with a 1'-deep ceiling 35' up and a splitter fingercrack just above that. Climb the ramp then up face to a stance below the roof. Go up the face and over the roof (crux) to the excellent fingercrack. At the top of the crack, go up an easier face, left to a hanging flake, then up this to join Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald at the scary pointed block just below the offwidth.
CrazyDog's Halo 5.8 PG 500'
This route ascends a series of corners and cracks slightly north of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. It offers incredible views to the north across the Agharta Wall before breaking through the upper cliff near a scary detached block.
Start: From The Cloudsplitter [route #2, volume 1, page 500], walk left for 5 minutes to a drainage from the face slightly right of the huge square scoop. Ascend to the face to a position 40' right of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald, and below the dominant left-facing corners on the right-hand side of the slab.
P1 5.8 PG: Face climb to the left-facing corners below a small roof. Go up 15' along the corner and then up to a smaller corner. Follow the obvious crack to a small grassy ledge. Avoid an offwidth crack below the roof, and instead climb up and right to a larger grassy ledge below a splitter handcrack. Climb the handcrack to the top of the flakes and traverse right to a crack that widens into a chimney. Exit the chimney before it gets grungy: traverse up and left on good face holds until a foot traverse brings you to a stance below a 1.5" crack and belay. 165'
P2 5.6 PG: Climb a left-rising fingercrack until it peters out. Face climb up and right to an overlap below a large tree island. Clear the overlap and continue 35' through the trees to a spacious terrace below a steep wall with good cracks. 135'
P3 5.7 PG: Climb the steep wall and break through another bushy area to the upper slab. Face climb directly up to an obvious crack in the cliffs (about 50' left of the Agharta chimney). Climb behind a large block to a ledge and traverse left to a left-facing corner with a small chockstone. Climb the corner and face climb to the trees. 200'
Descent: Rappel Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.
Pioneer Anomaly 5.8 PG 350' ★★
Start: On the left of the slab at the bottom of the Agharta Wall under broken overhangs split by a chimney 50' up.
P1 5.8 PG: Climb up grungy corner to right-facing handcrack–corner to top of pinnacle. 150'
P2 5.8 PG: Climb obvious fingercrack to its end. Make a crux move to a ledge, then go up a series of ledges and belay where it joins CrazyDogs Halo at horizontal cracks on a low-angle slab. 200'
Tail of Redemption 5.7+ R 320' ★★
Some sketchy rock for the first 40', then excellent rock with some runout face climbing following cracks and seams.
Start: At the highest grassy ramp below the Agharta Wall about 10' right of The Cloudsplitter.
P1 5.7+ R: Climb a ramp with loose rock and good gear to a left-leaning chimney–corner at the left border of the obvious roof system. Continue to a stance below a 4'-tall boulder. Break right and face climb up to the first left-leaning crack–seam. Follow until it turns into a left-facing overlap (runout). Climb about two-thirds up this feature, then step right over the overlap before it arches to the left. Face climb to the next left-leaning handcrack. Follow this and belay from the crack with a stance in a small depression. 150'
P2 5.6 PG: Climb the crack and bulges to obvious left-facing corner. Up the corner to its top then go diagonally to another left-facing corner with a large roof at the top. Face climb slab to roof and belay from tree island. 170'
Descent: Bushwhack to belay tree at the top of the Feline Wall or rappel Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.
Galaxy of Tears 5.9 PG 600' ★★★
One of the longest routes on the Mt. Marcy's side of Panther Gorge. Highlights include an exposed open book on P2, funky face climbing on P4, and expansive views of the Agharta Wall to the left.
Start: Begin at the left-hand edge of the Feline Wall—the steepest section of the wall—below the left-most fingercrack. Right of this steep section is a forested slope, separating it from the low-angle area further right, and to the left is the Agharta Wall. You may find it easier to bushwhack to the Agharta Wall, then go right up the glade to the start of this route.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the leftmost fingercrack to a handcrack and belay from cracks at the top near a 3'-wide flake that overhangs the Agharta Wall. 120'
P2 5.9 PG: Follow an obvious fingercrack up an exposed arête, then move left before an overhang. Continue up a slightly left-leaning dihedral to an open book with the crux at an exposed hand traverse. Climb to its top and belay from a good ledge. 150'
P3 5.8 PG: Climb a right-facing flake that turns into a corner with sketchy gear. Climb past top of Kat Nap, then drift right on low-angle slab. Break through the trees to the base of the upper cliff band. 170'
P4 5.6 G: Begin 50' left of a large, left-facing corner. Climb obvious cracks on a very featured "cheese grater" face. Traverse along a short wall leftwards to a chimney, then up low-angle slab to trees and belay. 160'
Kitten's Got Claws 5.7+ R 250'
Start: From The Cat's Meow [route #4, volume 1, page 500], walk to the bottom lefthand side of the slab then up and left slightly to avoid mossy slab.
P1 5.7+ R: Climb up to a grassy ledge above a mossy slab. From the center of this ledge, get your claws out and crimp your way up unprotected black slab to small right arcing overlap with a finger pod to its left (critical gear placement). Traverse left to smaller cracks. Climb to lighter colored slab with twin finger cracks that nearly join at the top. Continue up handcrack and belay from vertical cracks above small ledges next to left-facing corner. 110'
P2 5.6 G: Follow the obvious blocky left-rising crack to a right-facing corner. Step right after corner and continue up to gully at the upper lefthand side of the wall. Crawl through a vertical womb of cedar to a 10"- diameter pine tree and belay. 140'
Promised Land 5.8 G 410'
Face climbing, varied crack climbing and a money pitch between large opposing walls make this a worthy climb.
Start: This route is located on the buttress directly right of the large gully that defines the right side of the Feline Wall. Begin 15' up from the lower left side of buttress.
P1 5.7 G: Climb a right-rising ramp, then up the face to a horizontal crack left of two small trees. Continue up vertical cracks in the center of the face. When the cracks disappear 100' up, make some sketchy moves and break through a narrow band of vegetation. Climb cracks to a treed terrace directly below a large roof. 160'
P2 5.4 G: Climb to roof and make a 4th class traverse 20' right. Step up on low-angle slab to huge boulder on the left and belay. 80'
P3 5.8 G: Walk past boulder to left-facing wall with a chest-high ceiling. Traverse using horizontal crack under the ceiling to the face between the gully and a huge left-facing corner. Climb the face to a pair of handcracks. Climb to their end, then go right on low-angle slab to a chimney below a small ceiling. Climb up and left on blocky horizontal cracks to another chimney. Take care of loose-looking rock. Step left and climb along the edge of gully to top. End with cedar pulling and belay from two large pines left of the gully. 170'
Descent: Rappel down gully.
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof 5.8 PG (5.7 R) 200' ★
Wet tin isn't easy to climb, and neither are wet backcountry cracks. This route has a little of everything—unprotected start, easy-moderate cracks, a scenic terrace and a killer finish up an easy chimney between the mountain and a large free-standing pinnacle. Other than the first 15', the route has decent protection.
Start: Left of Le Chat Noir [route #6, volume 1, page 501] at a vertical face 5' left of the mossy blocks at the lower left corner of Panther Den, where the herd path veers back into the woods.
P1 5.7 R: Climb an unprotected face (5.7) to a ledge below an obvious handcrack. Climb the handcrack, then up divots with good cracks along the left-facing corner of the Panther Den wall. Belay from a spacious terrace below a vertical wall. 150'
P2 5.8 PG: Follow a handcrack up to a large free-standing pinnacle. Climb slab along the left side of the pinnacle to a chimney. Go up the chimney 20' to top and belay from trees. 50'
Descent: Walk off northeast around top of cliff.
Climb After Slime 5.8 G 180' ★★
A play on "Time After Time", this route features an absolutely bomber layback flake leading to a traverse out on the prow of the Panther Den Wall.
Start: 10' right of Cat on Wet Tin Roof at mossy blocks and cracks below an obvious gully. The first 15' are often wet, in which case you can start on Cat on a Wet Tin Roof and move right to the gully.
P1 5.7 G: Climb mossy blocks with good gear into a gully. Continue to an optional belay on a ledge next to the beginning of twin fingercracks below an obvious right-facing flake. 50'
P2 5.8 G: Step right to attain the cracks (crux). Climb a flake with an alternating finger - and hand-crack to a horizontal at its top. Traverse 10' right along the horizontal with great hands and ok feet to attain the prow. Go up face and through a series of overlaps to low-angle slab. Continue past a chimney on the left to belay from the trees past a left-facing corner. 130'
Gera: To 4".
Descent: Bushwhack north 75' and rappel Panther's Fang.
You Moss be Kidding Me! 5.7 G 110' ★
This one looks like a mossy mess at first glance. Instead, an alternating chimney system makes a surprisingly fun climb with great hand jams, good feet and plenty of holds.
Start: About 20' right of the Panther's Fang at an obvious crack with moss on either side.
P1 5.7 G: Climb a chimney–crack system to its top. Break right to a left-facing corner and belay above. 110'
Gear: To 5".
Descent: Bushwhack (fourth class) 30' left and rappel Panther's Fang.
One for the Boys 5.9 PG 75' ★★
Start: At the first crack to the left of the 6'-deep right-facing corner of Puma Concolor [route #8, volume 1, page 501].
P1 5.9 PG: Climb the straight crack to its top and belay from a good vegetated ledge. Take care of loose blocks at the top (can be avoided). 75'
Gear: To 4".
Belshazzar's Fate 5.8 PG 100' ★★
Surprisingly more interesting and appealing than it appears from below.
Start: 15' to the right of the obvious right-facing corner of Puma Concolor [route #8, volume 1, page 501].
P1 5.8 PG: Climb to flaring chimney and follow to roof. Drift left around dangerous blocks to a small ledge. Climb handcrack in a right-facing corner to adequate belay on the left. Rappel or walk off (climber's) right. 100'
Until recently, all of the reported climbing activity in Panther Gorge has been on the Mt. Marcy (west) side of the gorge. These routes are located on the Haystack (east) side of the gorge.
for an overview of Haystack.
For Whom the Lichen Tolls 5.9 PG 40' ★★★
Ascends an overhanging finger- and hand-crack of a free-standing pillar. Recommended music for the climb—For Whom the Bell Tolls by Metallica.
Start: Walk south about 525' south into the gorge from the Phelps Trail/Haystack intersection. The pillar sits slightly above the drainage on the Haystack side. Alternatively, you can see the pillar with the obvious crack on its west face from the base of the Panther Den Wall and traverse to its position 587601,4885228. Begin just right of the southwest corner of the pillar.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb up good edges and jugs along the south side of the pillar to an obvious ledge on the SW corner. Follow a slightly overhanging, left-rising finger- and hand-crack up to a horizontal seam. Continue climbing the continuation of the crack as it rises slightly to the right. Top out on a small summit split by cracks. 40'
The Ramp Wall was named for the large left-rising ramp at mid-height on the cliff. The upper portion of the cliff forms a fin with a deep corridor behind it that provides a unique 4th class descent.
for a photo of the Ramp Wall.
Directions: The wall sits directly across from the Panther Den Wall [volume 1, page 501]. Approach as for the Panther Den Wall then bushwhack across drainage to the Ramp Wall.
Eye for an Eye 5.8 PG 60' ★
Start: Walk to the left end of the Ramp Wall, then continue 100' left and cross a stream to this route. Begin just left of the stream.
P1 5.8 PG: Go up a short offwidth crack, then scramble up ledges to a right-facing corner with many loose looking blocks (they are well anchored). Continue to the top of the corner, move right past flaring cracks in face and past two small pillars. Ascend a fist crack to the top. 60'
Descent: Walk right and rappel from trees.
Less Than Zero 5.5 PG 60'
The intended route—the striking lightning-bolt-shaped crack under the start—is no more than a dirty seam.
Start: 50' uphill and left of All Battered Boyfriends, below some left-facing corners. This is just left of the prominent ramp high above.
P1 5.5 PG: Climb the face left of the left-facing corner to a ledge at the top of the corner. Step right to top of the ramp, then go up the 4'-deep right-facing corner to top. Hurdle moss cornice to belay. 60'
Descent: Rappel from trees.
All Battered Boyfriends 5.7 PG 70' ★
Start: 30' left of lower right end of ramp.
P1 5.7 PG: Face climb past horizontals, then up opposing corners to the ramp. Traverse down and right on the ramp, then up a right-leaning handcrack to a vegetated terrace and belay. 40'
P2 5.5 G: Climb blocks in a right-facing corner (part of a wide stem box) to the top. 30'
Descent: Scramble down the corridor behind the cliff (4th class).
for a photo of the V Wall.
This is the gorge below Little Haystack. The wall is shaped like a "V", the left side of which is definted by a deep left-rising gully, and the right side by a right-rising dike-gully.
Directions: Follow the intermittent herd path to the Agharta Wall, then bushwhack to a large boulder located in the drainage stream from the V Wall. Follow stream to wall 587593,4884764. Expect to navigate through heavy moss-covered talus, blowdown and dense tree growth.
Windjammer 5.7 G 140' ★
Start: At the opposing corners partway up the right wall of the left-hand dike that defines the left side of the V Wall.
P1 5.7 G: Follow the right-hand crack of the opposing corners (left-facing corner). Good jugs and jams lead to a stem box with a basketball-size chockstone (crux). Continue past the chockstone and follow the gully to its top. Belay from tree. 140'
Psalm 23 5.7 G 190' ★
Start: At the bottom of the V of the V Wall.
P1 5.7 G: Follow slightly left-leaning cracks and ledges to overhanging hand- and fist-crack and follow this to its top. Belay from trees. 190'
All Things Holy 5.7 PG 505' ★★
Great views of the Mt. Marcy side of the gorge. An aesthetic line on excellent rock.
Start: From the base of the V, go up the dike-gully that forms the right-hand side of the "V" to an obvious left-rising crack in the left-hand face.
P1 5.5 PG: Follow the left-rising crack from the basalt dike around onto the front of the wall. Follow a left-rising fracture through bulges to a small belay terrace at the bottom of a grass island. 90'
P2 5.4 PG: Continue 30' up and left to a right-rising crack. Follow this up bulges of heavily pitted rock. Just before the crack ends, step left over a rounded corner onto the face. Go up the face, then up a crack straight up to trees. Bushwhack 30' through the tree band to the base of a slide and belay from cracks near its base. 180'
P3 5.7 PG: Climb the face up the center of the slide with the crux move on a tier with horizontal fingercracks. Continue to the top where it becomes briefly vegetated. Climb the last section on and left up a handcrack and low-angle slab at the top. Exit to the left and climb a 10'-tall wall with nice cracks to belay at the top. 165'
P4 5.7 PG: Bushwnack 40' up and left to the first face with a vertical crack crossed by two horizontal cracks. Traverse to the crack from the right and climb the vertical crack. Belay from the top at a large tamarack tree. 70'
Descent: Rappel the route, or continue uphill to the Range Trail northwest of Little Haystack.
for a photo of the South End.
Haycrack 5.3 PG 150' ★★
This aesthetic route climbs an excellent crack located on the northern of two technical slides joined at the top. The route provides a unique perspective of the Mt. Marcy side of the gorge.
Start: The route is located south in the gorge below Haystack's summit. Due to its position low in the gorge, it is best approached from the Panther Gorge Lean-to. (It's about 20 min south of the V Wall of All Things Holy.) From the lean-to, follow Marcy Brook about 0.5 mile up to 3,375 elevation where a small stream enters from the right. This is near the beaver ponds, which are on the left. Bushwhack just south of the stream to the slides, which you reach after about 200' of elevation gain. Climb several ledges to a right-rising dike that leads to the base of the slab 587429,4884146. If you find yourself at a long, left-rising ramp, then you're on the southern slide.
P1 5.3 PG: Face climb 15' to a handcrack. The serpentine crack offers bomber holds throughout. Follow the crack up the face, over a bulge, to an obvious overlap 80' up (optional belay). Continue up the crack another 30' to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall (stepping down and around a 6'-deep corner) for 40' to the woods. 150'
❏There has been significant rockfall (around March 2014) above this part of the Beaverview. Be aware of loose debris strewn over the upper ledge and along the base. The trees originally used for belaying at the top of Drumthwacket [route #3, volume 2, page 147] and Beat the Crowd [route #4, volume 2, page 147] are gone. While these routes appear relatively undamaged, they have not been climbed to assess their condition. Descent from these routes can be made to climber's right, down a steep ramp, also partially covered in debris.
Livin' on the Edge 5.8- R 100' ★★
Start: On the left edge of the face 52' left of Drumthwacket [route #3, volume 2, page 147], at a faint, right-rising seam 8' up. It is easier to start slightly higher yet.
P1 5.8- R: Climb along the edge of the face, along a narrow rock ramp, until even with a left-facing corner on the main face. Climb the corner as it rejoins the edge, then go up along another (higher) narrow rock ramp until it dwindles and steepens. Step out onto the face and climb along the edge to the top. 100'
Gear: Brass nuts, micro-cams, and small to medium cams for the top.
This closed project follows a crack line 12' right of Livin' on the Edge and 40' left of Drumthwacket. It goes through two overhangs along the way.
Leaver Your Beaver 5.5 PG (5.3 R) 230' ★★
Start: 25' right of Beat the Crowd [route #4, volume 2, page 147], at an ill-defined right-facing flake below a left-rising horizontal crack. This is roughly 10' left and below a stepped, left-facing corner that begins 20' up, and turns to become an overhang 30' up.
P1 5.5 PG (5.3 R): Make a tricky move off the ground to reach the left-rising horizontal crack. Step onto this and move left 8' to a subtle rock rib. Climb up the rib without protection to an overhang formed by the aforementioned left-facing corner. Climb through the overhang at a vertical crack, and follow vertical seams and cracks to a ledge. 80'
P2 5.5 G: Begin at a pair of vertical cracks that lead up a slab to a wide crack. Climb slab and cracks to a large, sloping tree ledge. 50'
P3 5.5 G (5.2 R): At the top of the tree ledge is a left-leaning crack leading up to meet a left-facing, left-leaning corner. Climb crack and corner to lower-angle slab, then up a textured black slab on the right to another wooded ledge. 100'
Eager Beaver 5.4 PG 80' ★
Start: 10' right of Leaver Your Beaver and 35' right of Beat the Crowd, at tiny right-rising footholds that lead to the bottom of a stepped, left-facing corner system, which becomes an overhang 30' up.
P1 5.4 PG: Climb out footholds to reach the base of the corner, then climb the slab right right of the corner until it is possible to reach a vertical seam running up the slab. Up this to a left-rising horizontal crack, move left 6' along this feature, then up easy slab to a ledge. 80'
Afternoon Tea 5.6 PG 95' ★★
Previously a toprope [volume 2, page 148], this has now been led.
Start: At an S-crack that begins 4' off the ledge of the Beardsley Buttress.
P1 5.6 PG: Climb crack to a small ledge 20' up. Traverse 6' right, go up on good holds through a small overlap. Climb up to a left-leaning crack and follow it to the top of the buttress. 95'
This slab lies above the left side of the Brown Slab [volume 2, page 148]. There is a good crop of blueberries along the top.
Directions: Climb anything on the Brown Slab, then go to the high point of the left side. Thrash upward for about a minute to reach the base of the Connector Slab.
Brown to Blue 5.5 R (5.3 X) 100'
Start: At the low point of the slab.
P1 5.5 R (5.3 X): Climb up the middle of the slab. Near the top, stay right of an overhang. 100'
❏The route Divide by Zero [route #10, volume 2, page 156] has been led.
Brownies and Beer 5.9 G 90' ★★
[Between routes #10 and #11, volume 2, page 156]
A good line that would be much better if cleaned.
Start: 50' right of Dividing Line at a vertical crack that fades 40' up. From Dividing Line, go right and up a steep, wooded slope to a vertical crack between two pines growing up against the cliff, 4' apart.
P1 5.9 G: Climb vertical crack to its end at a bulge. Move right to gain another crack system, and climb to the top. 90'
Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot, 2 ea #1, #2 Camalot.
❏The variation Everywhere That Man Can Be [route #23, volume 2, page 158] should be ★★.
Amid the Flood 5.8- R 85'
[This is up-to-date description, replacing route #22, volume 2, page 157.]
A good line, but with ledge-fall potential.
Start: On the left side of a narrow grassy ledge near the right side of the Firecamp Wall, 10' left of a steep tree gully.
P1 5.8- R: Scramble up a right-facing open book to a stance below an A-shaped overhanging notch at a right-facing corner. Move out onto the face left of the A-shaped notch, and climb through a bulge via a shallow V-groove. Weave up the face utilizing cracks along the way for gear, finishing on the final moves of Seam Ripper. 85'
Fooled Again 5.9 G 90'
Maybe not the best route to simul-climb with heavy packs, as the first ascent party did.
Start: Same as Amid the Flood [route #22, volume 2, page 157].
P1 5.9 G: Climb the broken corner to a right-leaning, right-facing corner with a pronounced A-shaped overhanging notch. (This notch is directly right of Amid the Flood.) Climb through notch and up the corner to the top. Tree anchor. 90'
❏V1 (Lost in the Crowd) of Cornerstone [volume 2, page 161] should be ★.
Trench Foot 5.1 G 30'
A beginner route.
Start: At an open book 30' left of the spring that flows from below the low point of the cliff.
P1 5.1 G: Climb open book to the top. 30'
Divots 5.3 X 30'
Because it's there. There is no gear on this route; any fall will go to the ground.
Start: 10' left Hypoxia [route #6, volume 2, page 168] and the spring that flows from below the low point of the cliff, at the least-mossy strip on the slab.
P1 5.3 X: Climb the excellent knobs running straight up the least-mossy bit of slab, to just barely right of a spruce tree. 30'
Virgins in the Dark (project)
Closed project. Begin on the arête left of Roped Bouldering [route #18, volume 2, page 169]. Climb the arête and face to meet the crack of Roped Bouldering. Continue on the overhanging lip of the arête to its end.
Cabin Fever 5.4 G 65'
[Between routes #19 and #20, volume 2, page 169]
Start: At a wet, vertical crack leading to a cluster of trees on the sloping ledge 25' up, just left of the wide black wet streak near the center of the Upper Measles Wall.
P1 5.4 G: Climb up crack to a flake, then go out right onto a slab and onto a ledge. Step left behind the cluster of trees to a chimney formed by a large block left of the overhanging face of the cliff proper. Climb the chimney to the top of the block, then step onto the slab above the overhang and scramble left to the outside right edge of a large dihedral. Climb into the dihedral and up the wide crack in its corner, then move out to the right edge to reach the top of the cliff. 65'
Hydrophilia 5.2 G 35'
Often wet; the dry spell of 2015 allowed this massive cleanup operation.
Start: 20' right of Hydrophobia [route #23, volume 2, page 170] at the base of a left-rising crack in a shallow left-facing corner. The crack meets the top of Hydrophobia at the top of the cliff.
P1 5.2 G: Climb crack and corner to the top. 35'
This wall lies directly below the campsite, above and right of the Below the Measles Wall [Volume 2, page 170], and accessible by the same path.
Rocksport 5.10 5.11a G 40' ★★★
A short amount of real climbing, but what there is, is exquisite.
Start: At the base of the leftmost outside corner of the wall.
● P1 5.11a G: Reach or lunge for a good triangular hold, then move up and right to a right-facing side-pull. Move left and up to a small, arcing, right-facing corner, climb to its top, then move onto the easier slab above and up to trees. 40'
Kirby's Nine 5.10b G 75' ★
Diminished by friable holds and a dirty top-out, this is certainly far harder than its namesake's implies.
Start: Below the right outside corner of the wall, at a blocky ramp left of a pointed, 6'-tall boulder.
● P1 5.10b G: Climb ramp up and left to a stance at the base of the main wall. Make difficult pulls on friable crimps up and right to a positive (though suspect) hold, then up to a small shelf. Move right to the edge of a large flake, and go up this as it turns to become a rounded small ledge. Reach for the lip at the end of the steep wall, then make a difficult transition onto the slab above. 75'
This is the first 20'-tall boulder beside the East Path above the campsite.
Mammut Oasis 5.9+ R 25' ★★
With a better landing, this would be a boulder problem. As reported, it's not a safe lead, though adequate protection can be found with enough stamina Start: At the obviously-cleaned crack on the right side of the boulder.
P1 5.9+ R: Make a difficult move off the ground to reach a hold up and right of the left-leaning crack. Reach left to the crack and follow it to the top. 25'
This area is short, steep slab right of and slightly above the bottom of the Green Stamp Walls. It is uphill and left of Unnamed Slab, and about halfway between Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174] and Tablerock Crag [volume 2, page 152].
There are several vertical cracks here, and after extensive development and cleaning, revealed themselves to be quite easy. The views are good, and the cracks are suitable for learning gear placement.
Directions: Go to the Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174], then contour left (west) on a herd path to Unnamed Slab, the first long slab you come to. Continue uphill and left along the base of this slab to Lower Long Slab, then on to Springfield.
Homer 5.2 G 60' ★
Start: Below the leftmost crack on the left side of the slab. The crack does not quite reach the ground.
P1 5.2 G: Up slab to crack. Climb crack through a short steep section, then climb the slab left of a brush-filled, low-angle crack to a stance below a spruce tree. 60'
Lisa 5.4 PG 55' ★
Start: Same as Maggie, at a short slab below a vertical crack 20' right of the left end of this slab.
P1 5.4 PG: Climb up to crack and follow it to its end. Make a tricky move up and very slightly rightward to reach the reappearance of the crack, then climb up easing angled rock to the top. 55'
Maggie 5.5 PG 50'
Start: Below a short crack which does not reach the bottom or the top of the slab, left of center.
P1 5.5 PG: Climb a crack near the left edge of the slab a few feet, then reach right to the base of a shallow crack, and climb it to its end. Reach up and right to a bushy crack, and climb it to the top of the slab. 50'
Bart 5.2 G 65' ★
Start: At a low-angle open book leading to a crack which jogs left 20' up.
P1 5.2 G: Climb up to crack and follow it left around the jog, joining Maggie to the top. 65'
Moe Szyslak 5.3 G 65' ★★
One of the better routes on the slab.
Start: Same as Bart.
P1 5.3 G: Climb the slab right of Bart to a crack, then follow this to the top. 65'
Diamond Joe Quimby 5.7 G (5.4 R) 60'
Start: 15' right of Bart at a left-rising, left-facing corner beneath an overhang just left of where the cliff turns right and slopes uphill.
P1 5.7 G (5.4 R): Climb up corner and steep slab on the left to reach a good horizontal above the overhang. Traverse right a couple feet and make a long reach to another horizontal, then move up and follow a short vertical crack in the slab above. Continue up an unprotected, dirty slab to the top. 60'
Kang & Kodos 5.6 PG 55'
Start: The right side of the crag is steeper. Begin 8' up from the low point of the formation.
P1 5.6 PG: Climb up small, right-slanting corner until it is possible to traverse left across the face to a pair of horizontal cracks on the edge of the buttress. A hidden crack along the way takes a micro-cam. Climb onto the uppermost horizontal, then run it out up easy slab to the top. 55'
Mr. Burns 5.7 PG 50' ★
Start: Right of Kang & Kudos at the first crack on this steeper section of face, about 12' up from the low point of the formation.
P1 5.7 PG: Climb crack, which thins to a near-useless seam for a few feet (crux) as it leads through the steepest part of the wall. 50'
Principle Skinner 5.6 G 50'
Start: Beneath a left-rising, left-facing corner 6' right of a vertical crack running through a ground-level overhanging bulge.
P1 5.6 G: Step up onto a small ledge, then stem using the corner on the right and the vertical crack on the left until it is possible to shift left to a good stance below a bulge with a crack. Make a committing move to pass the bulge. 50'
Marge 5.6 G 40'
Start: At a 5' by 5', flat boulder lying on the ground 35' right of the low end of the right face of the crag.
P1 5.6 G: Make a difficult move up to reach a thin, right-rising crack, then follow it up and right to the easy slab and on to the top. 40'
This is the slab sits between Springfield (to the west) and Unnamed Slab (to the east). There is a lower and upper section; you walk past the lower as you walk west from the Bellavista Slab towards Springfield. Climbing here is a "pleasant relief from mere bushwhacking."
Directions: Go to the Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174], then contour left (west) on a herd path to Unnamed Slab, the first long slab you come to. Continue uphill and left along the base of this slab to Lower Long Slab.
Cleanin' Jerk 5.4 X 120'
Start: The base is split by a thicket on its right side. Begin at the low point left of the thicket, below a wide, shallow rounded groove.
P1 5.4 X: Climb up through groove onto easier slab above, then to the top. Several loose plates lie askew near the top of the slab. 120'
This is the longish slab above Lower Long Slab. Routes here are a "terrifying, engaging solo."
Directions: Approach as for Lower Long Slab, then either climb Cleanin' Jerk, or hike up around the left (west) side of Lower Long Slab to its top.
Brushin' Roulette 5.8 G (5.7 X) 150'
It's a tough decision: cling desperately to the holds you have or clean off the next ones. There is good gear for the hardest moves, but the climbing between it and the easy slab is desperate.
Start: At the base of a long slab above and slightly right of the top of the Cleanin' Jerk slab, below a dual-seam box-notch left of a left-facing corner.
P1 5.8 G (5.7 X): Climb up into the notch, up this to its end at a small overhang. Go up and right onto a steep slab and weave upward, first slightly left, then rightward, to get through the steepest section. Above this, the angle eases and the climbing becomes enjoyable, unprotected 5.4 terrain (a brush-filled crack to the left can be utilized for gear, that is, if you bring a trenching tool). 150'
This is the first major slab area west of, and roughly the same elevation as Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174]. It's the longest and most continuous section of rock in this area.
The area is named "Unnamed Slab". Go figure.
Directions: Go to the Bellavista Slab [volume 2, page 174], then contour left (west) on a herd path to this slab. This is the first slab you come to when walking towards Springfield.
Unclaimed 5.7 G (5.3 X) 200' ★
Start: At two tilted blocks near the left side of the slab.
P1 5.3 X: Climb up blocks on the right side of a chocolate-colored slab. Below a large spruce tree, traverse right across a mossy section, then go up to get behind the tree. 100'
P2 5.7 G (5.3 X): Climb a vertical crack through the short steep wall, then up a crack on the slab until it is possible to escape left or move right onto the main slab. Move right, cross a left-facing flake (good pro here) onto a knobby face. Climb good knobs to cleaner slab and merge with Unnamed to the top of the slab. 100'
Unwanted 5.5 G (5.3 X) 200' ★
Start: Below the right corner of a flagstone-like block lying askew on the slab.
P1 5.4 G (5.3 R): Climb up to top of block, then friction up and right to a right-facing corner capped by a triangular boulder. Go to the top of this boulder, step left onto dirty slab, then move up and right on cleaner rock to the base of the headwall at a point where it is broken by a hanging open book (about 16' right of the short vertical crack crux of Unclaimed, and about the same distance left of the crux of Unnamed). 100'
P2 5.5 G (5.3 X): Climb into the hanging open book and climb it its top. Move right to a crack in a small left-facing corner, and climb this to its end. Friction diagonally up and right on the slab (no protection), arching upward in the center of the slab. 100'
Unnamed 5.7 G (5.4 X) 340' ★
Yes, the route's name is "Unnamed," hence the name of the slab.
Start: At the lowest point of the slab, near its right end.
P1 5.4 X: Climb up the slab weaving between dirty streaks. Pass through a constriction at a steep part of the slab, then move up grooves toward a tree on a shelf near the right side of the slab. Climb up left of the tree to a stance at the top of a right-rising seam at the base of a short headwall. Presently, there is a small, dead pine tree here. 230'
P2 5.7 G (5.3 X): Climb through the short headwall using good holds and cracks, then move up through a vegetated groove to a cleaner slab above. Move up and right along cleanest rock to the top of the slab. 110'
❏The route Bon Chance [route #12, volume 2, page 175] has a second pitch. In keeping with the character of P1, protection is poor. It climbs the left edge of the headwall. (P2 of Le Jeure de Bon Heures climbs the left-facing corner that defines the left side of this headwall).
P2 5.5 X: Climb up the left edge of the headwall. Make a few tricky slab moves up the headwall, trending rightward to reach low-angle rock. Join Le Jeure de Bon Heures where it traverses right onto the slab. Follow that route to the fixed anchor on an oak tree shared with the other routes. 60'
There are several low-angle slabs with prominent black streaks right of the second pitch of Leftover [route #4, volume 2, page 175; the slab is visible above the legend in the photo, volume 2, page 172.] Jay Harrison soloed three lines here (Blackavar, Campion, and Hazel) in 2012 and 2014, ranging from 5.2 to 5.4 with R protection, each about 100' in length. The area is not predicted to be popular.
❏Solar Grace [route #14, volume 2, page 179] has been extensively scrubbed to reveal additional protection opportunities (small brass nuts and micro cams). The grade is now PG.
❏Solo, Gracias [route #15, volume 2, page 182] has been scrubbed and is now ★. Fixed protection has been added, making this 5.7 G. This route also has a cleaner variation start that bypasses the dirty, wet corner:
V1 5.10a G: Go up the first 10' of Solar Grace, then move right directly across the slab to rejoin the normal route.
❏Never Alone [route #16, volume 2, page 192] has been scrubbed and is now ★★.
❏On The Fence [route #17, volume 2, page 182] is 5.4 by consensus.
New variation to Animal Farm [route #30, volume 2, page 184]:
V1 5.10c G: After the crux (at the first horizontal crack), move right to the end of the crack (micro cam), then step right to a vertical crack (0.3 Camalot). Up the crack to its end, then right to good holds. Go up and left to rejoin the normal route to the top.
The Mote in God's Eye 5.8 R (5.3 X) 170'
[Left of route #6, volume 2, page 177]
Raw, dangerous, and intricate adventure climbing. This route pads up the slab underneath the Eyebrow Overhang, then breaks through it at an unlikely locale. P2 has excellent moves with good exposure; if cleaned it may yield more gear. There are several loose blocks, some large, but they can be avoided. It may be possible to avoid the difficult, unprotected opening moves by traversing across the slab from the beginning of H2 Alpine [route #6, volume 2, page 177].
Start: On a narrow, low tongue of moss-covered slab directly left of the bottom of the gully–ramp that leads up to Blueberry Ledge (the ledge where the "blueberry" routes end—Blueberry Crumble, Madam Blueberry, etc.).
P1 5.8 R (5.3 X): Climb holds hidden in the moss just right of a water-cleared streak, aim for a good hold visible at the top of the steep part of the slab. From there, climb up clean swathe of easy, unprotected slab, then head left toward the right-rising headwall of the Eyebrow Overhang. Reach it 20' below the point where it turns sharply to become a horizontal overhang. This is directly below the upper end of a wide, flaring crack running underneath an overhanging block just above head level. 100'
P2 5.7 R: (V1): Climb up onto the ramp at head level, then make delicate moves up and right around the overhang. Above the block is a rubble-choked crack under another overhanging wall; reach it and follow it back left and slightly down to a stance below a notch in the wall. Climb up through this notch onto a slab, and move up and left to the base of the final headwall. Step up onto a left-rising crack, shuffle left along it a few feet, and make tricky moves to surmount the steepness and reach easy ground. 70'
V1 5.8 R: Friction up the slab to the point where the wall turns to become a horizontal overhang. Climb up the notch into a cave shared by a very large, disconnected block lying at a very frightening angle on the slab. Chimney up and away from this obstacle without using it, then head leftward to a stance under an overhang. Rail left and down along a crack to rejoin the standard route below the uppermost headwall.
Gear: Wire brush, superglue, double set of cams from 0.5" to 4".
First Amendment 5.10a G 150' ★★★★
Not as difficult, but more sustained, than Second Amendment [route #12, volume 2, page 179].
Start: 10' left of Second Amendment, near the left end of the terrace, 10' right of a dirty gully, at a tiny, rounded, left-rising ramp that ends 10' up.
P1 5.10a G: Go up the ramp to its end, then go up and right on a clean slab to where the angle eases below a left-rising, shallow crack. Climb the crack and continue up easy slab to an overlap with a right-rising crack. Follow this crack past the large horizontal (below the P1 anchor of Second Amendment) and continue up knobs to a fixed anchor. 150'
Gear: Single set of cams from 0.5" to 3".
Second Helping 5.10b G 175' ★★★
Start: Same as Second Amendment [route #12, volume 2, page 179], at the base of the tall, orange-colords slab, next to a right-rising crack. This is the same start as the V1 variation Bill of Rights).
P1 5.9 G: Climb up the right-rising crack to a shelf, then make a friction move upward left to a small stance. Climb up the slab directly above to the left end of a horizontal crack, then move up and left to a stance under a large hanging block. Continue up the slab past the block, (V1) then step left across a dirt gully and climb the slab along a black streak to the right end of a small overlap. Pass the overlap, then step right and climb good knobs to a horizontal crack below the fixed anchor of Second Amendment. Traverse left to the fixed anchor and belay. 120'
P2 5.10b G: Traverse 10' right and climb knobs to a point 8' left of a block pinned beneath the right end of an overhang. Climb through overhang (harder for short climbers) to a stance on a sloping ledge, then follow a right-rising crack to a tree ledge. 55'
V1 Short Change 5.10a G: This variation provides an alternative finish for anyone under 6' tall. Do not cross the dirt gully; continue up the slab to its end at a left-facing corner. Climb along the arête to the ledge and anchor shared with Saratoga and Solar Grace (5.7 PG 50'). Step down from the anchor to the ledge, then step left across the dirt gully and traverse 15' left to rejoin P2 the standard line. At the overhang, climb up through the notch in the overhang using the block pinned underneath, swing left from it to gain a sloping ledge stance (hard for tall climbers). Climb directly up the face to the top (5.10a G [5.5 R] 60').
Saratoga 5.8 PG 95' ★★★
Adequate gear, but tricky and occasionally strenuous top place.
Start: Same as Solar Grace [route #14, volume 2, page 179].
P1 5.8 PG: Climb vertical crack to rounded ledge. Traverse left 10' to a rounded, left-rising ramp below a bulging face. Go up the ramp then stand up into the right end of a horizontal crack. Follow knobs up and right (this is very near Solar Grace). Move up left to an elongated plate, climb up this to reach a good crack behind a left-facing flake, and climb it to a small overhang. Reach another horizontal crack, then go up the center of the knobby face to the ledge shared with Solar Grace. 95'
I Don't Want No Scrub 5.8 PG 110' ★★★
[Between routes #15 and #16, volume 2, page 182]
Would be ★★★ if cleaned up. This is a direct line on this section of cliff.
Start: 30' up and right of the start of Solar Grace, 10' left of Never Alone, at a waist-high slab that leads to a small, left-rising overhang.
P1 5.8 PG: Up slab, then through overhang using a thin, left-facing flake. At flake's end, mantle onto a horizontal crack, then climb a knobby face directly above to another horizontal crack. Step up and left on this, climb the thin slab to one more horizontal crack, then join the final moves of Never Alone: climb knobs on face to a ledge with a fixed anchor on an oak tree near the edge. 110'
Gear: Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
Secrets of the Pyramid 5.6 PG 145'
The first pitch is uninspiring, but you can bypass this by climbing the P2 of Rise & Shine. The route finishes on a pyramid-shaped formation.
Start: 12' right of the flake–crack system of P2 of Rise & Shine, at a left-leaning horizontal crack, on the far right side of the Mad Cows Wall.
P1 5.6 PG: Use the crack to gain a left-rising ramp, and follow this to its end at a right-facing corner with a boulder lying askew on the ramp. Move delicately around the boulder and out onto the face, following a right-leaning rail which ends at a good stance below a right-facing corner formed by stacked blocks. Step across leftward along a low-angle slab to a headwall, then continue left and downward onto a brushy, large ledge. Walk left to a point directly below a steep, right-facing corner. 75'
P2 5.6 G: Climb up the corner 4', then foot traverse right to a left-facing flake. Climb flake to its top, then traverse right along a narrow ledge. The ledge sweeps upward, diminishing as it does to become a crack and a steep rail. Follow it to a stance below a final, triangular block (aka The Pyramid), then climb past a bolt to the peak of the formation. Walk across the top edge to reach level ground. 70'
❏The route Little Jam [route #32, volume 2, page 185] is considered hard for the grade and gets 1 star.
❏The route Jug, Tug, and Jam [route #31, volume 2, page 185] has been cleaned and now gets a star.
The route On the Fence [route #17, volume 2, page 182] has been cleaned and is now 5.3 (yes, a two-grade drop in difficulty). It is reported as one of the best pitches of this grade in the park, G, and an excellent first lead.
Goosesteps 5.10a G 40' ★★
Similar to Baby Steps, but slightly easier.
Start: Same as Baby Steps. At a ledge at ground level at the extreme left end of the Jammer Wall.
◉ P1 5.10a G: Walk left along a ledge to knobby face just left of a rounded, right-rising, right-facing corner. Climb knobs to a horizontal crack, then up face, rightward at first, then leftward, then straight up to a ledge with the fixed anchor on an oak tree near the edge. 40'
Gear: #2 Camalot.
Baby Steps 5.10a G 30' ★
Start: 12' left of Stutter Steps, behind an oak tree at the far left end of the Jammer Wall (walk any further left and you fall off the ledge).
◉ P1 5.10a G: Step up left to a flake and climb onto a small ledge. Delicate moves past a horizontal crack and two bolts lead to easy slab. Up and left is a tree anchor (for On the Fence). 30'
Stutter Steps 5.8- PG 90'
[Left of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Might be decent if it were thoroughly cleaned. Dry conditions must prevail.
Start: 15' left of Stand Your Ground at a right-facing corner with a wide crack.
P1 5.8- PG: Climb up corner to a horizontal crack on the main face. Pull up onto a small horizontal stance above this, and move left to a right-facing flake. Climb flake to its end at an overhang. Move right 5' to and break the overhang on knobs, then go up to a crack under a right-rising overlap. Follow this to its end, then continue up and right to join Action Steps for the last 20'. 90'
Action Steps 5.8 G 90' ★★★
[Left of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Not a sport route, though the only gear-placements are at the easiest climbing. Bring a #0.3 and #0.75 Camalot, quickdraws, and one long runner.
Start: Same as Stand Your Ground [route #24, volume 2, page 184].
◉ P1 5.8 G: (V1) Climb to the first ledge 7' up. Step left onto the slab, traverse onto knobs above a small overhang. Follow a vertical line of knobs to a slight bulge, then up easy rock for 10' to a horizontal crack. Climb knobs above the crack onto slab, with one last tricky friction move before reaching a fixed anchor. 90'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3, #0.75 Camalots.
V1 Action Steps Direct 5.9+ PG: Begin on the steep slab 10' left of the Stand Your Ground crack, at a small foot edge just above knee height. Step up on small edges to reach a horizontal crack under a small overhang (5/8" cam possible to the right). Move up, right, up and right again to join the regular route. There is only a single piece of gear on this variation.
Losing Streak 5.8- R 65'
[Right of route #24, volume 2, page 184]
Start: 40' up the ramp right of the start of Stand Your Ground, just right of and above a large oak tree.
P1 5.8- R: Climb the slab along the left edge of a water streak. At the point where the water streak becomes mossy, climb knobs on its left edge to good right-facing side-pulls to reach a good ledge. Climb straight up to the fixed anchor of Stand Your Ground. 65'
Crack of Dawn 5.7 G 175' ★★
[Right of route #32, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 12' right of Little Jam, at the rightmost vertical crack on the Jammer Wall—a hand crack filled with malicious sharp crystals.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack (V1) to its end, then up several squat bands of rock to a sloping wooded ledge. Walk up to the base of the next cliff, at the right end of a rounded ledge at head height, with a fragile tongue of rock hanging below a flake bordering the right end of the ledge. 35'
P2 5.6 G: Get up on the rounded ledge, stab for a good knob, then (V2) move right to reach a flaring vertical crack. Climb this to its end, then step left onto holds below an overhang. Climb through the overhang and up the left edge of the block forming to a stance below a short, dirty face. 50'
P3 5.7 G: Move the belay: go up to the higher of two left-rising ramps, and walk left to its end, left of an oak tree and 10' left of a vertical fingercrack leading up to an A-shaped overhang (the start of Ape X [route #36, volume 2, page 185]). Climb a right-leaning crack and knobs to a left-rising horizontal. Reach up past this to good holds, then foot-traverse along the horizontal crack to a stance. Follow a right-rising crack to an overlap, and move right around this, and up to a good ledge below a large overhang. 50'
P4 5.5 G: Same as P2 of Ape X: walk right to a block providing access around the roof. Climb vertical crack to its end at a horizontal, step right to a thin vertical crack and climb it to reach a notch leading to the top. 40'
V1 5.4 G: Easier, less intuitive, but much more enjoyable than the crack. Sidepull the crack to reach right-rising holds blending into a rounded ramp. Follow the ramp, then climb easy face to rejoin the standard line above the crack.
V2 5.8 G: This was the original line to reach P3, and dries quicker than the standard route. Traverse left following P4 of Rise & Shine along left-rising cracks until they join a horizontal crack under a small overhang. Reach up over the obstacle to another crack system trending left, and follow it 10' left. Traverse right across a slab, and up to a left-rising ramp. Climb through a short wall above this to the left and of another left-rising ramp to rejoin the standard route at the base of P3.
❏For the route Ape X [route #36, volume 2, page 185], after P1, you can walk right on the ledge to the fixed anchor of SMASH!.
❏The easiest way to access the upper right-hand side of this wall (the routes Ape X, Chesty Puller, and so on), is to climb (or solo) P1 of Crack of Dawn, then walk right (initially uphill, then slightly downhill) until you can switchback up and left on a narrow, exposed ledge that runs along the base of this wall.
SMASH! 5.12b G 70' ★★★
Crimpy; wait for cooler temps for this one. The crux is short and well-protected, but much harder if you're short.
Start: 4' left of The Slash, at a waist-high horizontal.
P1 5.12b G: Stand in the horizontal, then climb straight up the face through an overhanging scoop (crux). Continue up the steep face to a beautiful, spacious ledge. There is a fixed anchor high on the overhanging back wall of the ledge. 70'
The Slash 5.11a G 90' ★★★
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Strenuous and demanding with excellent, but fiddly, gear.
Start: 25' right of and down from Ape X, on block on the left-rising ramp, at a right-rising crack that breaks a head-height overhang and rises through a steep face and bulge.
P1 5.11a G: Climb through overhang and continue up the crack, over the bulge to easier climbing. There is a fixed anchor on an oak tree left of the crack. 90'
Gear: Cams from 0.25" to 1.5"; 2 ea #0.5 Camalot; full set of nuts.
Chesty Puller 5.11a G 90' ★★★
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 6' left of Crazy Lace, at an ankle-high horizontal seam below a left-rising overhang at head height. 40' above, the wall bulges significantly.
P1 5.11a G: Climb up onto a sloping ledge under the left-rising overhang. Reach right for a blunt, left-facing flake, swing up and right onto the face above it, and go past a bolt to a good stance. Climb over a small overhang to reach an upward-facing, right-slanting flake, then climb the bulging face to obtain a good stance above it. Go up and slightly left to reach a right-rising crack line (the top of The Slash), and follow it to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 90'
Gear: To 3".
Crazy Lace 5.8 G (5.3 R) 95' ★★
[Right of route #36, volume 2, page 185]
Start: 50' right of and down from Ape X below a small overhang 8' up, which has a right-rising vertical crack running through it.
P1 5.8 G (5.3 R): Climb to and through the overhang via the crack, then follow the crack as it diagonals right, then becomes a horizontal under an overhang. Traverse right along the crack, then up where it once again begins rising right. Break the overhang to reach the left end of a large ledge (escape possible here). Traverse left along a horizontal tips crack 7' to its end, then climb unprotected knobs to a small stance with a thin crack. A few more knobs gain a right-rising crack (the top of The Slash); follow this up and right until it is possible to step left onto a final slab below an oak tree anchor. 95'
Gear: Standard rack plus 2 ea 3/4" and 1" cams.
Tourist Trap 5.7 PG 170' ★
An attempt at perusing the possibilities on this wall that went bad.
Start: Slightly right of the start of Crazy Lace, at a left-leaning crack at ground level.
P1 5.7 PG: Reach directly right (#2 C4 helpful) to good holds on top of a left-facing flake. Climb up to a horizontal, then move right 5' to good knobs leading to another horizontal crack. Traverse right along the crack to its end, then make a committing reach up and right to a left-rising mini-ramp. Climb up ramp to its top and make a tenuous reach to the left end of a thin horizontal crack. Traverse right (V1) to the crack's end (last gear) (V2), then make a long step right and slightly down to sloping footholds. Continue right to reach a line of three sloping knobs, one above the other, just left of a shallow, rounded, right-facing groove-corner. Climb knobs to the refuge of a large, sloping ledge. 70'
P2 5.5 G: Climb through a notch formed by a right-facing corner on the left and a large block lying on a slab to the right, to gain a ledge below a wide horizontal crack. Traverse left and follow the crack as it sweeps up and leftward. Cross the right-rising crack of The Slash, to another right-rising crack. Step up this crack a short distance, then continue the traverse up and left to reach a blueberry-carpeted ledge at a large flake leaning against a final short wall (Ape X climbs up into the notch on the left side of this flake). Climb up the right-facing corner formed by this flake to the top. 100'
V1 (TR) 5.9: At the left end of the crack, climb straight up the short slab above.
V2 (TR) 5.8: Traverse along the crack until it is possible to reach up to a very rounded knob. Hidden crimps near this ease the passage up.
The Clash 5.11a G 65' ★★★
Overhanging jugs at the start contrast sharply with the tiny crimps that commence thereafter.
Start: At a large incut hold just above head height, 25' left of Ambulance Chaser, behind a large, healthy spruce tree.
P1 5.11a G: Follow jugs to a stance at a wide horizontal crack. Shift slightly left of a short, right-facing flake, then move up past two bolts and a short, exhilarating runout to good holds at a horizontal crack. Continue upward on small knobs to a left-rising, right-facing flake with a shallow, flaring, worthless crack. Follow this up (terrain shared with Tourist Trap) to its end, then step up and right through an obscure rounded notch in the final headwall to gain the large ledge. 65'
Gear: Cams to 0.75", medium and large chocks.
Descent: Hack rightwards through the thicket to reach the anchor above Ambulance Chaser, or climb P2 of Tourist Trap.
Ambulance Chaser 5.9+ G 70' ★★★
Start: Near the right end of the Animal Charm Wall, below a slightly past-vertical, right-facing corner that begins at a ledge 10' up.
P1 5.9+ G: Make a difficult, bouldery move to gain the ledge. Climb the corner to its end at a horizontal crack. Traverse right around a small right-facing corner, then climb it to a stance in a chimney formed by the main wall and a large block on the right. Stem the gap to a fixed anchor on an oak tree. 70'
The Gash 5.8 G 70' ★★
Start: 30' right of the right-facing corner of Ambulance Chaser (which begins at a ledge 10' up), the wall turns uphill, below the bottom of a sweeping, bent open book (the open project Crooked Book); then is broken by a deep, steep, dirty gully. Begin 20' left of and down from this gully, below a stepped, thin, left-facing flake left of a left-rising vertical crack system.
P1 5.8 G: Climb a low-angle face between two rocks lying against the bottom of the wall. Move up and right to reach the left-rising crack system. Take the crack system to the tree anchor at the top of Ambulance Chaser. 70'
Gear: Cams to 3"; 2 ea 1"-3" cams.
❏P4 of Gray-Harrison [route #46, volume 2, page 187] has been extensively cleaned. This route begins in the Land of Overhangs, but the pitch is technically located on the Jammer Wall.
❏The route End of the Line [route #48, volume 2, page 187] is more like 5.10c.
Logging Flight Time (aka Tom's Roof) 5.11a G (5.3 R) 55' ★★
This route was previously the project known as Tom's Roof [route #41, volume 2, page 186].
Start: Below the large ceiling, 8' left of the corner at a flaky, pockmarked face.
P1 5.11a G (5.3 R): Climb easy, friable face up and right to the juncture with the ceiling. Make a long reach to a good horizontal, traverse left to a vertical crack, then go up this to an easy slab. Scramble to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree. 55'
Ledgehopper 5.5 PG 480'
An easy tour of the South Corner Cliffs (easier than Rise & Shine, at least), linking several good routes and adding a smattering of new territory. Expect raw conditions in several spots along the way, particularly on the variations.
Start: Near Misty Mountain Hop [route #44, volume 2, page 186] on the left edge of the Stairway to Heaven buttress.
P1 5.4 G: Traverse to the top of the chimney via a rounded ledge beneath a bulging face. Climb up the crack system of Spiral Staircase to a small ledge beneath the final offwidth chimney, then traverse left to finish on the final moves of Misty Mountain Hop. 45'
P2 5.5 PG: Walk left 20' and climb a right-rising ramp system, cross the second pitch of Stairway to Heaven to a ledge, then continuing up the short, steep face to a scruffy finish on a sloping, wooded ledge. 50'
P3 5.4 PG: Shift the belay by walking uphill 60' to the terrace below the Provando Wall. Begin on the right end of the terrace (same start as Fireworks), but make an awkward traverse on a sloping ledge beneath the bulging wall, go right onto a steep ramp leading to a short, left-facing, blocky corner. Climb up and left to the oak tree partway up Fireworks. 30'
P4 5.4 PG: Follow Fireworks onto the slab a few feet, then head left along a horizontal crack, climb up to a second horizontal crack at the bolt of Riprovando. Continue leftward to the upper portion of Provando and climb that crack to the ledge with the herd path leading to the Jammer Wall. 60'
P5 5.3 G: Shift the belay 50' left along the herd path, to the base of a right-rising crack with a small, rounded, left-leaning, right-facing corner to its left. Climb corner to the right-rising ledge near the start of On the Fence, then climb that route. 120'
P6 4th class: (V1) Walk up the right-rising ramp on the right end of the ledge (V2), pass through broken rock to an oak tree with a 12'-long, sharp-edged boulder-flake above and to its right. 100'
P7 5.0 PG: Scramble up around the large flake, walk up a narrow, sloping rock ledge to easier terrain, then make a final move up a short slab to reach the ledge at the top of the Animal Charm Wall. 75'
V1 5.2 PG: Walk left on the ledge, drop down to an oak tree at the top of a left-facing corner on the right side of the Second Amendment Wall. Make an airy step left across a gap to reach a vertical grassy slope and claw to a short offwidth crack above it. Move up the right-rising, grassy ramp to another grassy ledge. Move up and left to stacked blocks and weave up through them (this is part of the Lane-Harrison route) to their top.
V2 5.7 R: This was a failed attempt at finding an easy original finish to the linkup. Shift the belay 60' right, up the ramp, at an oak tree. Scramble a few feet farther up the ramp, then move out left onto easy slab. Walk up to a headwall, climbing knobs past twin horizontal cracks with a small wedge of rock between them, reach another crack, then make a committing move off the crack to a small ledge above it. Climb up slab (#3 or #4 help protect the initial moves, but there is no protection on the rest of the slab) through a shallow scoop on crystalline crimps and rounded knobs to belay on a ledge with an oak tree 20' to the right (5.7 R, 65'). Walk right 10', then climb up a left-rising, right-facing corner to underneath a bulging block. Move right onto a brushy ledge beside the bulge, then climb up left onto the block, beneath a face with a right-rising, right-facing corner. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a flaring horizontal seam. Make a very dicey move across the slab to reach an undercling hold near the edge of the slab, then climb up easier slab to the top (5.5 R, 55').
Descent: Walk right into the woods, all the way across the top of the Carnivore Crack then traverse climber's left downward to the rappel anchor at the top of Animal Charm.
Going to Thee 5.7 G 40' ★
[Right of route #47, volume 2, page 187]
Better than it looks.
Start: At a crack system above a dirty notch at the top of a dirt mound, 15' right of the Stairway to Heaven [route #47, volume 2, page 187] face.
P1 5.7 G: Go up a crack system to a tight V-notch in steep rock. Step right to a short, wide crack. Climb up this onto a large block. Top out at the start of End of the Line [route #48, volume 2, page 187]. 40'
Rise & Shine 5.9 PG (5.4 X) 420' ★★★
This route begins on the TeePee Wall and is threaded through various other walls to ascend the full height of the South Corner Cliff.
Start: Same as Kissing Pigs [route #50, volume 2, page 188].
P1 5.9 G: Climb flake and crack to end of flake, then continue up the right-rising crack to a crystal-studded horizontal. Traverse right 6' and up a scruffy bit to a stance below the right end of an overhang, at a left-facing corner. Up the corner, then go around the right edge of an overhang via a good hand- and fist-crack. Climb the crack to its top, and scramble up wooded slope to the base of the next cliff. 90'
P2 5.7 G: Climb into a scoop below an ornate jumble of left- and right-facing flakes. Climb these up and left to a stance below a broken, right-facing corner. Climb corner (V1) to its end at a dirty, sloping ledge. Scramble 50' upslope to good trees. 60'
P3 5.9- PG (5.4 R): Move the belay: At the base of the next cliff, walk right around a large block to belay at a left-rising, narrow ramp, which becomes a right-facing corner. Climb the ramp and corner (good holds on the left face) to the left end of an overhang. Climb through this via a steep hand- and finger-crack to a stance beside an oak tree. Follow a left-rising crack to a narrow ledge below a bulging wall, make an awkward mantel, then move right (blind 1" cam placement) and up to a sloping stance. Climb leftward up onto the right end of a ledge (it is possible to escape left to the base of the Jammer Wall here). Make unprotected moves up a right-rising rail to another sloping stance with a right-rising overhanging wall above. Step up left and use a good right-rising edge (tricky offset brass nut placement critical here) to make a hard mantel, then move up right to find holds and gain easier ground. Climb slab and face up and left to join the top of P1 of Crack of Dawn. 90'
P4 5.8 G: Begin same as Crack of Dawn, at a chest-high rounded ledge, with a rock tongue below a left-facing flake on its right side. Get up on the rounded ledge, make a long reach for a good knob, then move directly left to gain a left-rising crack system. Ascend up and left to the point where the crack system meets a horizontal at a small overhang. Reach up for another horizontal crack, which becomes a left-rising crack system, and follow this as it steepens to its end beneath a large block lying on the right end of a ledge midway up the Animal Charm Wall. 120'
P5 5.8: Same as last pitch of Gray-Harrison [route #46, volume 2, page 187]: climb a steep fingercrack up a 12'-tall wall to a brushy ledge. Scramble up and right to a deep, right-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb a thin crack on the outside edge of the corner, up and around onto the face. Go up low-angle, dirty rock to a tree. 60'
V1 5.9+ PG ★★★: This variation (the line of the original ascent) adds 45' to P2 (making the pitch 105'-long). Instead of working up and right to get off the cliff, climb onto an awkward stance below the right edge of bulging wall. Tricky offset brass nut placements protect this move. Rail along a thin crack leading leftward above the bulging orange wall (A tricky-to-place purple C3 useful). Move left until it is possible to pull up onto an easy slab. Climb up to a right-rising flake (last gear), then climb the easy triangular face (the "Pyramid", bolt) to its top. Walk across or "á cheval" to safety.
Straighten Up 5.8+ G (5.4 R) 90' ★★
Start: Same as the Paris-Harrison [route #61, volume 2, page 190]. You can reach this position by hiking up the left-rising ramp along the base of the Long Play Wall, about 150' left of Bodhi Tree. Alternatively, rappel from the right end of the Jammer Ledge and walk right 100'. Begin below a right-rising vertical crack that leads to the left edge of a small overhang 10' up, formed by a large block lying on a right-leaning ramp.
P1 5.9 G (5.4 R): Climb the crack to the right-leaning ramp, step up on the block and make a gymnastic move onto a narrower right-leaning ramp. Walk 12' left, down the ramp, to a nice vertical handcrack. Climb the crack to its end, then climb straight up the face above via an ornately-fringed plate (3 bolts). Climb easier rock with some run-out to a fixed anchor (or continue up a scruffy, sloping ledge to reach the base of the Animal Charm Wall near its right end). 90'
❏There is now a fixed anchor at the end of P1 of Birthday Corner [route #91, volume 2, page 200].
❏The route Four Ounces to Freedom gets ★★★.
Underworld is described in the guidebook in the approach to the Slanting Cracks Wall [volume 2, page 209]. It's essentially the left side of the Slanting Cracks Wall, and sits directly below the Black Arches Wall. The lower section of the cliff is overhanging right off the ground with Crane's signature textured, orange rock. The upper portions are broken and vegetated with trees and completely uninteresting to climbers, with the exception of the Underworld Roof.
There are two closed projects on the right end of the cliff just before you reach the Slanting Cracks Wall.
Underworld Roof 5.12+ TR 50' ★★★
Not really a roof, but a 45° overhanging wall with a crack. With only one hand jam, this crack is harder than it looks, and it looks hard. It has been toproped successfully, and awaits a lead. From the East Path, walk downhill as per the approach to the Slanting Cracks Wall. About 100' down the slope, contour (skier's) left (east) on ledges for 300' to an open promontory with a good oak tree. The roof is completely hidden from view; rappel down a slab, then directly over the roof to a ledge. (Consider leaving the rappel line in place, with an ascender to retreat.) Climb up and left on a ramp to a handrail ledge on the overhanging wall. Rail right to the crack, then follow it (crux) up to a stance below a slab. Make a hard mantel onto the slab, then walk to the oak tree.
Gear: To #1 Camalot.
Crisis Inverted 5.12c G 35' ★★★★★
A super gymnastic route which will have you horizontal trying to reach the fingercrack. Stick clip if you're short. The upper fingercrack is totally protectable, but unnecessary.
Start: On the left side of the cliff, at an overhanging scoop split by a right-leaning seam that begins 10' up. The base here is pleasant, level, and open.
● P1 5.12c G: Make a hard slab move to gain the right-leaning seam. Up this a few feet to where the wall overhangs, then move up and left on a huge pasted-on flake. At its top, launch out right (crux) to gain a fingercrack in a left-facing corner. Up this to a fixed anchor. 35'
The Drop 5.13a G 70' ★★★★
Crane's first route of this grade.
Start: At the right end of the cliff, 15' left of Say Hello to My Little Friend and 10' right of a bottomless vertical crack that begins 20' up.
● P1 5.13a G: Reach a horizontal, then a jug-ledge just above. Use a left-hand gaston to make a long stretch to a thin right-facing flake (crux), then throw to a sloper and gain the next horizontal crack that spans the face. Move 5' left (0.5 Camalot optional) then continue straight up the sustained face using small crimps to an overlap. Finish on a clean slab to a fixed anchor. 70'
Say Hello to My Little Friend 5.12c G 70' ★★★★
Ascends an incredible textured orange face. It has one really hard section that can be bypassed by pulling on a draw, but is otherwise fairly moderate (5.11a).
Start: Locate the overhanging orange face at the right end of the cliff, just before a broken area. Begin 40' left below a horizontal crack 7' up.
● P1 5.12c G: Latch the horizontal crack, then climb up to an overhanging bulge. Make a desperate grab to a hidden crimp at a prominent horizontal that spans the face. Step left, then go straight up a beautiful, textured, orange face to a roof; over this at a nipple hold to a ledge, then up a short easy slab to a fixed anchor shared with The Drop. 70'
Madcap 5.7 G (5.4 R) 100'
Start: 65' left of Fifi Fingers [route #11, volume 2, page 211] at a shallow chimney–notch that ends at several diverging cracks 15' up.
P1 5.7 G (5.4 R): Climb up into notch, then follow right-leaning cracks to a stance where a wide handcrack leads sinuously up and left. Go up the sinuous crack up to a stance below a final, unprotected slab, and up this to a large, slanting ledge. 100'
Gear: 3 ea #2 Camalot; 2 ea #0.5, #1 and #3 Camalot; 1 ea #0.3 and #0.4 Camalot; medium to large nuts.
#4 Crack 5.5 G 35' ★
Start: At a vertical crack that begins 3' up, 20' left of the Call Me Gone buttress.
P1 5.5 G: Climb cracks and knobs on either side to a wooded ramp that leads up and behind the Call Me Gone buttress. 35'
Canine's Little Helper 5.10b G 65' ★★★
Similar climbing to Fifi Fingers, but easier.
Start: Below a rounded, right-facing corner that begins at the left side of a ledge, in the clean, chocolate-colored face shared with Fifi Fingers.
◉ P1 5.10b G: Either climb directly up to the rounded right-facing corner (5.8) or walk to it via the ledge. Climb up the corner until it curves right to become a rounded bulge. Step right a few feet, stem up to a cluster shallow divots, and go up. Step right to top out on a ledge. Move up and left to a fixed anchor. 65'
Gear: 1 ea #0.5 Camalot, green C3.
This cliff is left of the Scout About Slab. The outstanding feature is a large, right-facing corner with a left-rising crack that goes from the base of the corner 10' up to the outside corner.
Objet d'Irt 5.4 R 60'
Start: 25' right of the large right-facing corner, at a notch in the base of the cliff, below the right side of a huge, tilted block 25' up.
P1 5.4 R: Climb up and right to a short vertical handcrack and climb to its end. Move up and left behind the large, tilted block, then traverse up and right along a narrow right-rising ramp to the upper section of a crack in the slab above. Follow that crack to the top (same as Block Aid). 60'
Block Aid 5.7 G 60' ★
Would be better if not for the stacked blocks that form the lower 15'.
Start: At a vertical crack leaning slightly leftward, 35' right of the large right-facing corner.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the vertical crack through blocks to a ledge, then step left and finish in the vertical crack (shared with Objet d'Irt). 60'
Last Call 5.7 G 55' ★★
Start: At a right-facing corner on the right end of the 15'-high stacked blocks.
P1 5.7 G: Climb corner onto the ledge on top of the blocks, then follow a vertical crack in the same diminished corner through a small overhang where the corner ends. Continue up the crack to the top. 55'
This slab is up and left of the Waterfall Wall, and presently has several routes. Additionally, a couple linkups can be achieved starting at the Waterfall Wall and finishing on this wall.
The lower lefthand section of this slab is broken into two tiers. While several routes have lower pitches, the best climbing tends to be on the upper slab. You can reach this via a steep, slippery, 3rd-class gully on the left edge of the Main Slab.
Directions: From the left side of Waterfall Wall [volume 2, page 211], scramble up a steep, nasty gully to the right end of a long, tree-filled ledge system that runs gently downhill to the left. The face just above is the Scout About Slab. An easier approach can be done from the left side.
Scrounge About 5.6 PG 140'
Start: The first ascent on this slab, Scout About, goes up a vertical crack, then wandered up onto, then leftward across the slab via a thin foot traverse. Begins on the lowest section of cliff toward the left end, at a short, blocky slab 150' left of the class 3 gully.
P1 5.2 G: Climb up blocky slab to notch between trees on a sloping, wooded ledge. 20'
P2 5.4 G: Climb up a pleasant, but dirty vertical crack in the slab. Step right to top out between two trees. 30'
P3 5.6 PG: Walk 30' left to a large, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to its end 20' up at an overhang. Traverse right around the overhang on mossy holds, then go up the right edge of a tree island. Continue upward along a thin seam in the slab to a tongue of trees where the slab becomes trivial. 90'
Descent: Walk (climber's) left, go around a short cliff, then turn back to regain the base of the route.
Scout About Direct 5.5 G 40' ★★
Start: Same as Scout About [visible in the cliff photo, volume 2, page 211].
P1 5.5 G: Climb a vertical crack to its top. The original route goes up and left across the slab via a thin foot traverse. Instead, move up and right to a stance at a small horizontal. Go directly up the slab past two bolts. As the angle eases, angle left to an oak tree. 40'
Arbor Eat 'Em 5.5 G 60'
This exploratory route wrestles prickly branches for protection; not an instant classic.
Start: Scramble up the steep gully left of the waterfall slab, to the right end of a long, tree-filled ledge system that runs gently downhill to the left. This is the Scout About ledge [visible in the cliff photo, volume 2, page 211]. Begin just right of Scout About at a dirt-filled, vertical groove that leads to a spruce tree, and beyond that, a pair of large pine trees.
P1 5.5 G: Step up the left edge of the dirt groove, move out left onto the slab to circumvent the spruce tree, then move back right, above the spruce tree into a left-facing corner leading up to pine trees. Climb the corner to the first pine tree and rappel. 60'
Tumbling Dice 5.6 PG 190' ★★
This linkup begins at the base of the Waterfall Wall and finishes on the Scout About Slab. Each pitch can be reached by scrambling up the steep gully on the left side of the Waterfall Wall. The top pitch on the Scout About Slab is good, but scary with a long runout.
Start: At the right-facing corner on the left side of the steep gully used to access the Scout About Slab, which is immediately left of the Waterfall Wall.
P1 5.6 G: Climb up blocky rock on the outside edge of the corner to a horizontal crack beneath a bulging block. Traverse left to a right-rising crack and climb that to a narrow top-out. Scramble 25' up and left to the toe of the next slab. 45'
P2 5.5 PG: Start 10' left of the toe of the slab, friction right to a vertical crack, then step up onto a small stance. Continue up the outside edge of the slab to the top. Either skirt around the "Big Die" to its right, or step around its lower point to the left and climb directly up it to top out You are now at the base of the Scout About Slab. 45'
P3 5.5 PG: Begin just right of Scout About and Arbor Eat 'Em. Climb directly up the slab right of a dirt runnel until even with another spruce tree. Traverse right 12' on a sloping foot ledge to reach a left-rising diagonal crack. Climb the crack to its end, then move up a short way to a left-rising seam. Climb it to a stance on the left near the end of the seam, make a few easy friction moves, then move left to a large white pine tree to belay, or scramble up and left on an easy slab for 40' to the top of the formation. 100'
The Verge 5.5 PG 110' ★
Start: At the left edge of the main waterfall slab, just left of Waterfall Left [route #1, volume 2, page 211]. At the time of the FA, the bottom of the route was blocked by an inverted tree trunk (in which case, begin on top of the trunk).
P1 5.5 PG: Follow twin thin left-rising cracks to a stance atop blocks on the left edge of the slab. Continue up a left-leaning, left-facing corner and crack to its end at a rounded bulge. Climb up the bulge and slightly rightward to the top of the slab. 110'
The Verge Inn 5.7 X 310' ★
While the initial runout of P1 is unavoidable, the most dangerous sections of P2 can be mitigated with a cagey belay and clever rope tricks.
Start: Same as Waterfall Left [route #1, volume 2, page 211].
P1 5.7 X: Climb directly up the dimpled face past a pair of small slit pockets 50' up. Head to a left-leaning, useless crack and follow it upward. The crack provides some protection before pinching off; follow it past a final steep wave (5.6 R). Once over the wave, move up and slightly right, up a black streak to the top of the slab. 110'
P2 5.7 X: Shift the belay 35' up and left, to the right edge of another slab. Step out onto the slab at the base of the ledge (immediately putting you 60' up this slab), then climb along the right edge of the slab. Continue up the slab past a difficult wave 50' up to where the climbing eases. Belay at an oak tree growing between the slab and a large flake of rock. 120'
P3 5.2 PG: Climb up and left on easier slabs to the top of the formation. 80'
Descent: Walk climber's left to a left-descending ramp and follow this taking care not to turn directly downward until in sight of the boulder-choked streambed. At that point, skirt back to the base of the Waterfall. It is also possible to escape climber's right into a gully at the top of P2, descend this then make a 20' rappel to reach the sloping ledge at the top of P1. From there, make a descend 3rd class along the (climber's) left side of the main slab or rappel, angling left if using a 60m rope.
All Wet 5.7 PG (5.5 X) 800'
The Waterfall Wall is popular as a long, mild ice climb, and early in Crane climbing, was also the most popular rock climbing area. Over the years as summer conditions allowed, every pitch of this route has been soloed, except the topmost one. What follows is a summer ascent of the ice route; during the FA, much was wet.
Start: Same as Waterfall Left [route #1, volume 2, page 211].
P1 5.6 PG: Climb P1 of Waterfall Left. You can also climb P1 of The Verge (5.5 PG). 90'
P2 5.6 PG (5.4 X): Several options exist, especially if dry. For this ascent, start on the bottom left edge of the dry buttress right of the watercourse and climb to its upper right edge. There is a crack 35' up with the only protection. 140'
P3 5.3 X: Several options here. The right-facing corner where the water usually runs is a class 3 scramble. The slab to its right is an unprotectable 5.6 that gets easy after 10'. There are a couple overhangs left of the watercourse that have been climbed, all of which involve tricky unprotected pulls to easy, short slabs into forest. For this ascent, climb the low-angle, green slab right of the watercourse. While low-angle, there is almost no gear (effectively, one oak sapling), and a few moves that would otherwise be trivial on sparkling clean rock are much harder in their present condition. Tip-toe up the start, about 8' right of the boundary with the wet (and/or brown) rock, past the aforementioned sapling, traverse left 6' along a seam to the edge of the green slab, then make a tricky move up following a suspicious line of clean patches to the top of the slab. 75'
P4 Class 2: Cross the stream, then head up and right to a ramp leading to the base of the next pitch, a slab with a 7'-tall overlap above a scruffy ledge 75' up. 260'
P5 5.5 X: The most dangerous pitch on the route: there is no protection for the first 65', and although the lower, steeper section has holds and dries relatively quickly, the upper, lower-angled stretch is usually wet and quite dirty, and almost impossible to climb in this condition. Since the upper section is not visible from the base, it is possible to climb into a trap. While this slab has been climbed in thoroughly dry conditions, this ascent escaped leftward by sneaking under a loose rock plate on wet (though clean) rock, getting pro in a wet right-facing corner, then scrambling up woods and moss to rejoin the regular ice climbing path after traversing right under an overlap. 150'
P6 5.7 PG: The only new terrain for this ascent. This pitch will be excellent if cleaned. Climb up the left side of the 20'-tall block lying near the center of the face, to its top. Traverse left to a right-facing corner (both wet and dirty), make a couple funky moves up, then hop left onto a dry, clean slab. Go up this to a stance under an overhang. Commence a long and very wet traverse, 25' right to a position 8' below and right of the bottom of a vertical crack. Climb up to the crack, then follow it to the top. 85'
Learning to Fly 5.5 G 170'
Learning to Fly [route #4, volume 2, page 212] has been extended to the top of the cliff, and one piece of fixed gear has been added at the start (to replace the tree that has since fallen).
Start: 150' right of the waterfall is a bulging wall with two chest-sized blocks on a ledge 4' up. Begin 30' uphill from and left of the blocks at a 3'-long right-rising ramp. This is left of the level area where I'll Fly Away begins.
P1 5.5 G: At end of foot ramp, traverse right past a horizontal pod, a vertical crack, and a vertical seam, to reach a crack that begins in a left-facing corner. Follow this crack up and right, then move up and right to another crack left of the anchor for I'll Fly Away. Climb crack to a horizontal, above which the crack closes to a seam. Traverse the horizontal crack to another vertical crack, and take that up to a cluttered ledge. Belay at an oak tree on the right. 120'
P1 5.5 PG: Walk up low-angled rock to a headwall 12' from its left side. Climb the headwall using knobs to an easy, dirty slab and belay at a hemlock. 50'
I'll Fly Away 5.10a G 40' ★★★
This route [route #5, volume 2, page 212] is now a lead route.
Start: 150' right of the waterfall at two chest-sized blocks on a ledge 4' up.
◉ P1 5.10a G: Scramble onto the blocks, then up the face to a short horizontal at the base of an elliptical formation in the rock. Go 5' right, then up and slightly left to a small left-facing corner. Up this and onto a slab. 40'
Gear: An optional #0.5 Camalot helps protect the opening moves.
Live and Let Fly (project)
This closed project is 10' right of I'll Fly Away, at a right-rising tips crack that leads through an awkward right-facing, right-leaning corner to an overhang.
Keymaster C2 85'
This route opens the door to the potential climbing above the large overhang that blocks much of the cliff above.
Start: 50' right of the blocks of I'll Fly Away, on a block in front of a ramp on a right-facing corner under the large overhang.
P1 C2: Aid up to the thin crack nearest the upper, outside edge of the overhang, then aid rightwards until the crack becomes wide. Move up and out via a good, vertical finger- to hand-crack, then follow this until it fades. Pendulum right into the next vertical crack, which also fades at about the same spot. Free climb to where the crack reemerges and climb it to a tree. 85'
Gear: A set of brass nuts and a set of offset brass nuts, a full set of C3s, doubles of 0.25" cams, triples of 0.5" cams, one 3" or 4" cam.
Seam Stress 5.10b G 45'
Start: Below a trace-seam 10' left of Wreck Me Baby, 30' left of the large left-facing corner of De-hedral.
P1 5.10b G: Climb up left of the seam, then (V1) stem across it and make a long reach to a good hold. Move up and left across the seam again to reach a right-rising block with good holds. Gain a horizontal break just below the large sloping ledge. Weave up good holds onto the ledge. 45'
V1 5.11b TR: Stay left of the seam through the initial 30'
Wreck Me Baby 5.10a G 45'
Start: At a 6'-high left-facing edge 6' up, 20' left of the large left-facing corner of De-Hedral.
P1 5.10a G: Work up the left-facing edge, traverse right 6', then move up and gradually back left to a rounded groove below a sloping ledge. Gain the ledge via that groove, then move right to the anchor of De-Hedral. 45'
De-Hedral 5.8 G 45' ★★
The seam in the steep face above the anchor is an open project.
Start: 200' right of the blocks of I'll Fly Away, at a 45'-tall left-facing corner, which ends at a ledge below an overhang on a steep face with a vertical seam rising directly above the corner. This is very near the right end of climbable rock.
P1 5.8 G: Climb up block to the base of the corner, then follow the corner to a ledge under an overhang. Over this to a fixed anchor on the steep face above. 45'
Caveman Cam 5.7 G 85'
[Right of route #11, volume 2, page 214]
Start: 50' right of Caterpillar Chimney, at a 20' long offwidth crack leading to the left side of an overhanging block.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the offwidth crack to tight alcove below overhang. Go up into the bottomless chimney along the left side of the block, then up stacked blocks to a stance on the right edge of the steep face to the left. Follow a left-rising, narrowing ramp up the edge of the face until it is possible to step left to a right-facing open book. Ascend the book onto an easy, dirty slab, then move left to a shaky shadbush tree to belay. 85'
Gear: A #6 Camalot (or even larger Big Bro) may be desirable, especially if the chockstone has fallen out.
Resperator 5.9 G 90'
Start: 10' right of Caveman Cam, at a fistcrack leading to the right side of an overhanging block.
P1 5.9 G: Climb crack to awkward stance below block. Make an awkward move following a crack right around the block to another stance on the upper slab. Climb up and left, following wide cracks, blocks, and steps to a shaky shadbush belay. 90'
Gear: Cams to 3"; 1 ea #5 Camalot; 2 ea #4 Camalot.
Paul and Tom's Morning Show 5.10+ G 110' ★★★
[Between routes #14 and #15, volume 2, page 412]
This route breaks the wonderfully exposed headwall to the right of the Azurite arête with views of the main wall and the valley below. Awaits a clean lead.
Start: 40' right of Azurite on a large ledge with an overhang at eye level.
P1 5.10+ G: Climb around the overhang then straight up weaving left and right through a series of flakes and thin edges to a roof. Around the roof on the left, then straight up a series of finger- and hand-cracks to a spectacular finish onto a ledge. 110'
❏The day use fee for Rogers Rock Campground [volume 2, page 87] has been increased to $10.00 per day.
❏You can now rent canoes at Rogers Rock Campground for $20.00 per day (from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM). This is more convenient for those lacking the ability to transport a canoe rented elsewhere. The limited hours, however, may require a two-day rental.
❏V1 (Direct Finish) of Little Finger (aka New Moon) [volume 2, page 98] should be ★★★★★.
To The Top 5.9 G 150' ★★
This route provides a high-quality extension to The Plunge or Flake 'n Bake [Routes #9 and #12, volume 2, page 90].
Start: At the large ledge at the top of The Plunge and Flake 'n Bake. Climb either route to access this ledge.
P1 5.7 G: Go up the offwidth crack in the back of a corner to its top 60' up. Scramble 4th class up and left to a very large white pine tree. 75'
P2 5.9 G: Above the pine, make a tricky slab move (5.6), then go easily up and right to a red-colored pillar-like corner. Climb this corner (5.9) to the very top of the cliff. 75'
❏P1 of Roaring Brook Falls [volume 1, page 316] should be ★★★★.
Edgewater, 5.6 PG (5.3 R) 170' ★★
[Right of route #2, volume 1, page 317]
Extremely slippery when wet, which is most of the time; the rating reflects mostly dry rock conditions. After P2, you can join the normal route, or cross the stream and walk off right.
Start: On rocks just left of where the lowest waterfall terminates. Belay at the edge of the water 20' right of After Irene.
P1 5.3 R: Climb just left of the final small waterfall to a broken slab, then diagonal up and left to a ledge below and left of an usually wet, vegetated slab. There is an old fixed piton at the belay. 60'
P2 5.6 PG: Step up and left to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the slab above then traverse right to a crack close to the water (often wet). Follow the crack straight up and over a small headwall to belay on a large ledge at the dead cedar, just left of the water. This is the same belay as commonly used after P1 of the ice route. 110'
❏Variation to Dweezil [route #42, volume 2, page 51].
● V1 Dweezil Extension 5.8 G ★★: Just before the anchor of Dweezil, step left and follow bolts up, then right to a belay left of Diva. Be mindful of rope drag (bring many 2' runners).
Two Bum Knees 5.10a G 70' ★★
Start: 20' left of Timbuk-2 [route #10, volume 2, page 63] in back of depression beneath a bolt on the overhanging right-hand wall.
P1 5.10a G: Climb up to a ledge, then up the all-too-short diagonal crack to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: To #0.4 Camalot.
TMT (Two Much Thought) 5.9 G 70' ★★
Start: On the arête just left of Timbuk-2 [route #10, volume 2, page 63].
● P1 5.9 G: Go up steep, juggy rock to a ledge, then up face to a fixed anchor. 70'
❏There has been some rock alteration on the route Free Ride. On the first pitch, a block pulled out just before the crux; grade unchanged. There are now some precarious, leaning blocks on Lunch Ledge (top of P6); use extreme caution here. Finally, some flakes pulled off the Perverse Traverse (P9), grade change unknown.
❏There's a new fixed anchor at the top of Sole Fusion [route #2, volume 2, page 266]. From the top, walk 30' right and look for bolts. This straightens the rappel line. The rappel lengths are 40m, 45m, 50m.
The Pusher 5.10a A0 170' ★★★★
This route [route #5, volume 2, page 269] has been rerouted/improved, cleaned, and extended.
Start: Scramble 4th class to the top of the left-rising ramp of Fistful of Stoppers. From the base of that route, walk left to the left side of a vegetated ledge, below a shallow right-facing corner, the right edge of a massive flake.
● P1 5.10a PG: Climb the corner until it's possible to reach left and clip a bolt on the face. Friction left past another bolt to a stance on the left side of the giant flake. Go straight up to a fixed anchor. 50'
P2 5.9 A0 PG: Go straight up through overlaps to the right of the blueberry bushes. Face-climb past two bolts to gain the crack, then continue on friction using the crack for protection. At the top of the crack, head up and right past a bolt to a stance below a roof. Overcome the roof using one point of aid (bolt, hidden from below) then climb easier face to a fixed anchor below the tree island. 120'
Descent: Rappel with two ropes.
Gear: To #0.75 Camalot, including nuts and RPs.
Fistful of Stoppers 5.10d G 430' ★★★★
This route [route #6, volume 2, page 269] has been straightened and extended and now goes to the top of the cliff. The extension has been named Fistful of Draws, and can be climbed at 5.8 A0 by pulling on a draw.
Start: Locate the left-rising ramp at the start of Meteorite, then scramble up and left to a spruce tree belay. Begin where faint horizontal dike bands extend horizontally to the right from the ramp across. About 25' along these bands is a 12'-tall, shallow, left-facing corner.
P1 5.8 G (5.5 R): Traverse right following thin dikes to the 6'-high, shallow, left-facing corner. Up this corner to its top, then angle up and left to an overlap. Over this to the bottom of a sharp, left-leaning tips crack. Follow this incredible crack for 50' as it gradually widens to hands, to an alcove at the base of a right-arching roof, the Death Block Belay (named for a scary, 8' wide, cantilevered flake held in place by magic). Fixed anchor. 140'
P2 5.8 G: Step left and go straight up the face past an hourglass flake and several horizontals (#3 Camalot) to a slab. Angle up and right (#0.3 Camalot) to an amazing perch with a fixed anchor. 80'
● P3 5.10d G: Step right and go straight up pure friction to a left-rising edge below a ceiling. Traverse left following the left-rising edge to the left edge of the slab. Break through the flap on jugs (5.10d crux, or 5.8 A0), then go straight up the slab to a fixed anchor. 130'
◉ P4 5.8 G: Go up a narrow tongue of rock that breaks through an overlap, then work up and slightly right on incredible waterworn rock to a left-leaning crack (optional #2 Camalot). Cross this and go up the final slab to a shallow dish at the top of the cliff with a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: For P1: a standard rack to 2"; for P2: 1 ea #3 and #0.3 Camalot; for P4: optional #2 Camalot.
Descent: Rappel 200' to the P2 anchor, then another 200' rappel to the base. Avoid rappelling from the P1 or P3 anchors (difficult pulls).
Soul Confusion 5.10c G 440' ★★★
[Located between routes #14 and #15, volume 2, page 273]
Another full-length route with a clean bottom section. Each pitch is slightly longer than 100', but it can be rappelled with a single 60m rope with care (much better with a 70m rope).
Start: Locate a clean slab—one of the rare places where the slab is clean beginning at the ground—between Another Botanical Wonder and Heroes, bisected by a left-facing, vegetated corner. Begin left of the vegetated corner, on top of a dirt cone, at the base of a left-rising crack that splits the slab. 50' up and right is a roof in a left-facing corner.
P1 5.10b G: Go up the left-rising crack a few feet (#1 Camalot), then straight up the slab to the roof in the left-facing corner. Over this (large stopper), then up more slab to a tree-pulling finish, and a fixed anchor just above. 110'
P2 5.9+ G: Climb the slab straight up, then angle left to a right-facing corner. Go up the corner, then step left to a small pedestal ledge. Follow a left-curving horizontal crack to belay ledge. 110'
P3 5.10c G: Step right and climb face to obvious crack which diminishes into a small, curving, right-facing corner. Belay under ceilings. 110'
P4 5.7 G: Climb into corner above belay, then pull spectacularly out onto the slab directly above. Diagonal up left to a line of weaknesses, then back right through the next two overlaps. Go up the final slab to the trees. 110'
Descent: Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. Some of the rappels just make it.
Gear: To 2".
Valar Dohaeris 5.10a G 360' ★★★
The sister route to Soul Confusion. All belays are fixed, and the route avoids all tree islands.
Start: 25' right of Soul Confusion, scramble up a fern slope to a birch tree.
P1 5.9 G: Climb a slab up and left to a right-leaning crack. Follow the crack to its top, then go straight up the face. Trend left on the slab to a fixed anchor (shared with Soul Confusion). 100'
P2 5.9 G: Follow Soul Confusion up clean face for 15', then straight up. Move right to a crack that leads to a ceiling. Over this to a fixed anchor. 90'
P3 5.9 G: Up right to groove, up stepped corners to fixed anchor. Classic and fun. 90'
P4 10a G: Up and slightly right to bulge and a stand-up crux move. Continue straight up over bulges trending left to a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: To 2". RPs mandatory for P3.
Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.
Dreadnaught 5.8+ G 300'
Start: Same as Valar Dohaeris.
P1 5.8 G: Start as for Valar Dohaeris: up diagonally left to a crack, then up right-leaning crack to its top at a dirt ledge. Cross rightwards onto a clean slab, then up right to blunt arête that leads to flakes. Belay at prominent 1"-2" crack. 105'
P2 5.7 G: Straight up crack, overlap, then up face to bigger overlap. Over this, then up face to a fixed belay (shared with P2 of Valar Dohaeris). 100'
P3 5.8+ G: Up face into shallow groove, then follow variably-sized cracks on right edge of slab to a fixed anchor. 95'
Gear: To 2".
The Dark Side 5.9 G 315' ★★★
Like many routes at Sugarloaf, an unpleasant first pitch leads to good climbing above.
Start: Same as Heroes [route #15, volume 2, page 273].
P1 5.5 G: Make your way up the slab and belay on tree ledge with fixed anchor. (This pitch more-or-less follows P1 of Heroes, but instead of making a 5.8 move right and climbing tree islands, it goes straight up.) 95'
P2 5.9 G: Move left under roof to gain a left-facing corner. Go up the corner and break onto the slab before the corner becomes dirty; stay left of tree island. Go up a crack to a fixed anchor. Watch for rope drag. 100'
P3 5.7 G: Move up and left across slab to a right-facing corner. Step left then follow varying-sized crack to fixed anchor (shared with P3 of Dreadnaught). 120'
Descent: Rappel Valor Dohaeris with a 60m rope.
Gear: Gear to 2".
Gyros 5.8+ G 210'
P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of The Dark Side to the fixed anchor under roof. 95'
P2 5.8+ G: Go up right into corner, then follow this past fixed pin to a defined crack. Climb the crack halfway, then exit right to a flake system, then to a tree island, then left to the fixed anchor shared with P2 of The Dark Side. 115'
Gear: To 1".
[Volume 2, page 278]
With a location next to the now-open Sugarloaf, excellent rock, and being 2 min off the road, this cliff is sure to become more popular.
Riptide 5.8 G 60' ★★★
Start: Left of the three prominent right-facing corners is a buttress split by a right-rising horizontal crack. Begin below the left end of this crack, below a vertical crack in an open book 10' up.
P1 5.8+ G: Go up the handcrack in the open book to the prominent horizontal crack that splits the buttress. Go straight up past two more horizontal cracks to a fixed anchor. 60'
BLF 5.9 G 85' ★★
Start: 5' left of Fritzie's Honor, just left of the low roofs.
P1 5.9 G: (V1) Stick clip, then climb onto the sloping shelf at the base of main right-facing corner of Fritzie's Honor. Go up the corner 10', then break left around the arête at an obvious flake. Climb the face right of the giant precarious pancake flake, then up a crack in a right-facing corner to its top. Move up and right over a bulge to a fixed anchor shared with Fritzie's Honor. 85'
● V1 Pudding Snack 5.11b G ★★★★: Excellent and devious. Begin 10' to the left at a giant, three-trunked tree, below a jug-ledge at head height. This is below a shallow, smooth, green-stained open book 20' up. Mantel onto the jug-ledge, then up to a good left-facing flake. Move left into the shallow, green-stained open book and climb to its top. Go up and right around a bulge, then join the main route below the giant precarious pancake flake.
Fritzie's Honor 5.9+ G 85' ★★★★
[route #1, volume 2, page 278]
The original route on the face has been cleaned and equipped, and is now an excellent lead.
Start: Locate the right-rising ledge that splits the right end of the cliff in two. Walk up the ledge to the third right-facing corner that begins above a shoulder-high ceiling.
◉ P1 5.9+ G: From the right end of the ceiling, move up onto a left-rising slab. Follow the slab up and left to the corner. Go up the corner to a right-facing, right-rising, stepped overhang. Step left around the corner to another, more shallow corner, and layback up this to the fixed anchor. 85'
Gear: A few cams to 1".
Peach Meat 5.11b G 85' ★★★★★
Great face climbing on excellent, naturally clean stone; sustained. And who doesn't love peach meat?
Start: 10' right of the shoulder-high ceiling at the start of Fritzie's Honor [route #1, volume 2, page 278], behind a white birch, at a chest-high, left-leaning fingercrack on a shallow ramp.
● P1 5.11b G: Use the fingercrack to get established on the face, then climb up to the highest of the easy holds. Make a hard boulder move (crux) to stance on the highest of these holds. Move right and climb a shallow open book to its top, then step right again into another shallow open book. Climb jugs to a tombstone flake, then go over this to a headwall. Go up the right side of the headwall (second crux) to a roof. Finish on easier climbing through two roofs. Fixed anchor at the top. 85'
Fruit Cup 5.11a G 85' ★★★
Great moves up clean rock with two distinct cruxes.
Start: 10' right of Peach Meat below a ceiling 10' up that has a small, left-facing offset corner in it.
P1 5.11a G: Stick clip. Go up to the ceiling and reach up to some good holds on the face above. Make a hard move up and left (crux) to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner to its top, then up holds in a green-tinted face (stay just left of a hanging tree). A hard move up and left gains a sloping stance beneath a ceiling. Break the ceiling in the middle (second crux) to reach an orange flake and fixed anchor just above. 85'
Gear: Green Alien, blue TCU, #0.4 Camalot, #1 Camalot, yellow Alien.
Hit Girl 5.11a G 80' ★★★
Start: Walk 30' up and right from Fritzie's Honor on the right-rising ledge that divides the right end of the cliff; begin below a right-facing flake that begins 8' up.
P1 5.11a G: Gain the flake and climb to its top. Rail up and left on a good edge, move up to another rail, then go up and right on flakes and jugs. A hard mantel gains a rounded stance below a headwall. Go up the headwall on tiny crimps and smears (crux) to another rounded stance, then up more easily to a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: A few cams to #0.5 Camalot.
These routes are located on the lower wall—the wall below the right-rising ledge that divides the right end of the cliff.
Clash of the Lichens 5.11b PG 55' ★★
Two consecutive boulder problems on this one. Make sure to clip short on the first bolt to avoid hitting a slab.
Start: Below the right end of a low roof in a bottomless sentry box. This is in the center of some recent rockfall.
P1 5.11a PG: Go up an arête on the left side of the sentry box to the roof. Go up a short, right-facing corner to its top (#3 Camalot goes perfectly in horizontal crack at the top), then up the face to a fixed anchor. 55'
That's What She Said 5.11b G 60' ★★★
Start: 6' right of Clash of the Lichens at an 8'-tall square pillar.
● P1 5.11b G: Gain the top of the pillar and step left into a scoop. Climb up using a series of right-facing flakes. Make an unobvious traverse right using right-facing holds, then up (crux) to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 60'
Sloppy Seconds 5.6 G 50'
Start: 150' from the left end of the Main Wall, and roughly 300' right of the Carhartt Wall, on a narrow face with two right-leaning cracks, just left of a right-facing corner. Begin below the right-hand crack.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack to a fixed anchor at the top. 50'
Busta Gutt 5.5 TR 50'
Stem the corner just right of Sloppy Seconds. Staying strictly on the left face goes at 5.10d.
Stable Weather 5.9 G 40' ★★
Start: 300' left of Snake Charmer [route #12, volume 2, page 45] below a zigzag crack that begins a low ceiling 8' up above orange rock.
P1 5.9 G: Climb the zigzag crack to the top. 40'
❏The route Orchestra [route #163, volume 1, page 99] has been re-equipped and renamed Born Again. The grade is 5.10b (sport) up to where it logically joins Paralysis. Above this there are two more bolts that add a few moves at a more difficult grade.
❏The P1 and P2 fixed anchors of Freedom Flight [route #47, volume 1, page 50] have been upgraded.
❏The route Gun Control and the variation Gun Control Now should be ★★★★.
❏V1 (Mother's Day Variation) of Phase III [volume 1, page 39] should be ★.
❏V1 (The FM Direct) of The FM [volume 1, page 59] should be ★.
❏V1 of Spectacular Rising Traverse (aka SRT) [volume 1, page 62] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (Changing of the Guard) of Great Dihedral [volume 1, page 64] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Persecution) of Bloody Mary [volume 1, page 76] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Goombay Finish) of Fastest Gun [volume 1, page 78] should be ★★★.
❏V2 (The Cogito) of Fastest Gun [volume 1, page 78] should be ★★★.
❏V4 (Dunn Finish) of Fastest Gun [volume 1, page 78] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (Fastest Shark) of Shark Week [volume 1, page 79] should be ★★.
❏V1 (The Arch Crack) of Pilgrim's Progress [volume 1, page 87] should be ★.
❏V2 (Matrix) of Pilgrim's Progress [volume 1, page 87] should be ★★★★.
❏P3 (The Fingercrack Buttress) of Snow Blue [volume 1, page 87] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Munchky Microarête B) of Earthly Night [volume 1, page 89] should be ★★★★.
❏V1 of Macintosh [volume 1, page 94] should be ★★★★.
No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110' ★★★★
Demanding and sustained face climbing that follows the underside of a right-rising roof system.
Start: At the P1 anchor of Freedom Flight [route #47, volume 1, page 50].
◉ P1 5.11d G: Step right from the belay, climb left up to a short open book, then up this to some good holds on the right. Make a huge move right to an obvious small flake. Continue straight up through a serious of technical side-pulls and smears to the roof (a bit runout here on the easier ground). Pull through the first roof (crux) into a short, right-facing corner, then up to a flake. Undercling right on the flake to a final right-facing corner, and climb this up to a slab. At the last bolt, traverse right to join the last 15' of Freedom Flight to the fixed anchor. 110'
Gear: An optional yellow or green Alien reduces the runout to the roof.
❏There is now a fixed handrail that leads from the approach trail up the 3rd-class ledges to the base of Catharsis [route #2, volume 1, page 107]. There is also a fixed handrail that leads from the approach trail up the V-slot right of Space Walk [route #12, volume 1, page 112], presumably to access the tree-covered terrace above P1 of Space Walk.
❏There is a new 2-bolt start to Space Walk [route #12, volume 1, page 112]. Begin down and right of the 3rd-class ramp of the normal start. The grade is unchanged.
❏P1 of Le Poisson [volume 1, page 112] should be ★★.
Several routes have been discovered on the clean, black slab left of Catharsis [route #2, volume 1, page 107].
Let Them Eat Flake 5.5 PG 80' ★★
Start: From Catharsis, follow the cliffline left past a slab with a roof 15' up. Just pass this go up the steep slope, then up and right to the highest point of the terrain (now above the roof). This is also below the left side of the tree ledge 80' up, the same tree ledge where P1 of A Fine Line ends.
P1 5.5 PG: Go straight up the face past 2 bolts to a horizontal (small cam), then up to a hanging, left-facing flake (small nuts and cams). Undercling this to its top, then up the slab to a tree with a fixed anchor. 80'
Shake and Flake 5.5 PG 85' ★★
Climbs an interesting series of left-facing flakes.
Start: The right side of the tree-covered slope right of Let Them Eat Flake.
P1 5.5 PG: Step right on the slab to reach a shallow left-facing corner. Follow this as it leans left (piton), then straight up to a bulge with a flake whose right side looks chopped off. Over the bulge at this flake, then follow flake-jugs up and right to a ledge. Either walk right to the fixed anchor of Hot Bricks, or up and left to the treed terrace (in which case you can walk left to the tree anchor of Let Them Eat Flake). 85'
Gear: Standard rack to 1.5".
Hot Bricks 5.6 G (5.2 R) 120' ★★★
The longest route on this end of the cliff.
Start: 90' left of Catharsis at a large, double-trunked oak tree.
◉ P1 5.6 G (5.2 R): Go straight up the bolted slab (5.2 R at the bottom) to a bulge (small nut here, or a #0.4 or #0.3 Camalot in a flake also work). Up over the bulge to a ledge with a fixed anchor just below the tree ledge of P1 of A Fine Line. 120'
❏P1 of Hydrophobia [volume 1, page 124] should be ★★★.
❏P1 of Flash Flood [volume 1, page 126] should be ★★★.
❏P1 of Retrograde Motion [volume 1, page 127] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Trilogy) of Darkest Africa [volume 1, page 130] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (After the Gold Rush) of Gold Wall [volume 1, page 136] should be ★★★.
❏The route Anniversary Waltz [route #2, volume 1, page 356] now has a fixed anchor.
❏V2 (Another Crack) of Great Chimney [volume 1, page 356] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Radioactive Direct) of Radioactive [volume 1, page 294] should be ★★★★.
❏V2 (Isotope) of Radioactive [volume 1, page 294] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Tequila Mockingbird Direct) of Tequila Mockingbird [volume 1, page 295] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (Flying & Drinking Direct) of Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving [volume 1, page 296] should be ★★★.
❏The hardware on Center Stage has been upgraded.
❏The route Rockaholic [route #42, volume 1, page 302] now has a fixed gear anchor that avoids the junky finish.
❏The route Pegasus [route #65, volume 1, page 308] has a new bolt that protects the crux on P2. The rating of the route should be 5.8+, PG. The runout above the crux is on easier terrain and unchanged from the original route.
❏V1 (Death Trap Lite) of Death Trap [volume 1, page 304] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Lichenbräu Dark) of Lichenbräu [volume 1, page 309] should be ★★.
❏P1 of Backs against the Wall [volume 1, page 310] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Cruisin' with Joey) of Clutch and Cruise [volume 1, page 310] should be ★★.
❏V2 (Clutchin' the Bräu) of Clutch and Cruise [volume 1, page 310] should be ★★.
❏Variation to Gemini [route #13, volume 2, page 284].
V1 Enterprise 5.7+ G ★★: Climb the first 15' of Gemini to a left-rising crack. Follow this left around the corner to O'Ryan's Belt. This bypasses the crackless crux move of O'Ryan's Belt and slightly eases the difficulty rating for the whole route. One could also use this as an alternate start to Andromeda.
Solar Wind 5.7 PG 60' ★★
The first move is difficult and unprotected, and a fall here would continue off the ledge; the belayer should be firmly anchored. It is much easier (and protectable) to traverse in from the base of Cosmic Ray.
Start: 10' right of Cosmic Ray [route #7, volume 2, page 284] at a thin seam that doesn't quite touch down on the ledge.
P1 5.7 PG: Climb the seam, up a small left-facing corner, through a broken, steep section, to a final low-angle face above the end of the seam. Pockets to the right offer good protection for the last moves. 60'
Black Holes Matter 5.10b G (5.6 R) 70' ★★★
Start: Left of O'Ryan's Belt [route #11, volume 2, page 284] at a V-notch in the slab, just left of a tree. This is the same start as the project Unnamed2 [route #10, volume 2, page 284].
P1 5.10b G (5.6 R): Climb up notch to the steep wall. Move right and up 5', stretching for an invisible hold on the bulge above (a 5' 6" climber can barely reach it using the highest foothold). Climb up through the bulge to a good horizontal, then continue upward as the difficulty eases, to reach a left-rising, right-facing flake. Go up this to its top and run it out straight up to the left side of a block on a shelf. Move left and up to a fixed anchor. 70'
Opportunistic Omnivores 5.9 PG 115' ★★
Start: 30' left of No Regrets Coyote [route #5, volume 1, page 189] on top of a boulder and below a black right-facing corner. This is the same start as Sheik of the Burning Sands (winter route).
P1 5.9 PG: Climb right-facing corners to a left-rising ramp. Up the ramp 10' (blue Camalot) and break an overlap on good holds. Wander up the face following holds and protection, then eventually head left aiming for a ledge below a white roof. From the ledge follow a rising crack to a pine tree rappel. 115'
❏The route Sirloin Tips [route #15, volume 1, page 190] has been led free. The route stays on the clean black face all the way to the fixed anchor (avoiding Lentil Beans for the whole pitch).
P1 5.12b G: Stick clip, then make a couple hard moves to get established at the overlap 10' up. From here, a tips-ripping slab-crimp gives way a better hold at the second bolt. Continue straight up the face (5.9 PG) to the top, then step left to a fixed anchor shared with Lentil Beans. 75'
Thunder and Lichen 5.11c G (5.9 R) 85' ★★★★
[route #22, volume 1, page 192] This project has been meticulously cleaned, and led as a single pitch. The route is well-protected once above the horizontal crack 12' up; if you're worried, you can pre-place a #4 Camalot in the horizontal and stick clip it. An excellent, sustained pitch.
Start: 30' left of Rope Burn at a black wall that leads to a left-leaning seam that begins above a wide horizontal crack 12' up. The face on the right of the seam is sparsely dotted with orange lichen.
P1 5.11c G (5.9 R): Climb the black face up to a wide horizontal crack (#4 Camalot), then go up the left-leaning seam (crux) to its top. Mantel onto a sloping stance. Follow a crack over the next bulge to the top of the wall and a fixed anchor. 85'
Gear: Standard rack to 2", plus 1 ea #4 Camalot.
❏The route Alien Umbrella [route #7, volume 2, page 300] has been led, and is no longer a project. The grade and quality have been confirmed. At 5.11a, this is one of the easier cracks at this cliff.
SLU'zers 5.3+ G 40'
Start: At a right-facing corner 4' right of Sport Climbing is Neither [route #1, volume 2, page 406].
P1 5.3+ G: Climb up a series of ledges along the right-facing corner to the dominant overhanging ledge to right of two mossy vertical cracks. Continue to the left of the obvious horizontal crack to the top. 40'
Second Shift 5.10c G 80' ★★★
Two short, quality pitches. The upper pitch has great position.
Start: At a right-facing, right-leaning corner with a crack, below the right side of the terrace-ledge (mentioned in the crag description). This is below a large prow that defines the right side of the wall above the ledge, and there's a good ledge at the base of the right-leaning corner.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the crack to its top. Step left and go straight up to a short, right-facing block. Go over this (crux), then rail left and mantel onto the large terrace-ledge. There is a fixed anchor on the ledge. 40'
P2 5.10c G: Layback and face climb up a seam past two bolts to a fixed anchor at the top of the wall. 40'
Gear: Small cams and nuts.
Location: Accessed from NY 74 (between Schroon Lake and Ticondaroga), north of Pharaoh Mountain.
Approach: 2 hr, difficult
Summary: Large, remote cliff with high-quality rock.
Devil's Washdish [Volume 2, page 134] is located in a beautiful and remote setting in the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness. It is a substantial cliff, roughly 200' tall at its highest, and 0.5 mile wide. The rock is generally excellent with a high quartz content yielding many hidden, solid holds. The exceptions are the large, low roofs, which tend to be orange, smooth, and scaly. Surprisingly, there are very few cracks or other natural features for protection. The terrain along the base is easily negotiated and has multi-level terraces used to access the rock.
Directions: The approach involves a 3.5 mile hike, followed by a 30-minute bushwhack through relatively open forest with easy navigation. The hiking distance can be reduced using a canoe.
From the Northway (I-87) Exit 28 (0.0 mile), go east on NY 74 towards Ticondaroga. At 12.6 miles, turn right onto Putts Pond Road (CR 39, marked with a DEC sign that reads "Pharaoh Wilderness, Putnam Pond") and drive to its end at Putnam Pond at 16.2 miles. Enter the Putnam Pond Campground (518.585.7280) and park at the trailhead, just past the boat launch 614807,4854786 at 16.6 miles.
From the trailhead (0.0 mi), follow the yellow-marked trail south along the east shore of Putnam Pond towards Treadway Mountain. The first intersection is with a yellow-marked spur trail on the right used to access the east shore boat landing. Continue straight and reach the second intersection at 1.4 miles. Straight ahead goes to Pharaoh Lake and Grizzle Ocean Lean-to; go right onto the blue-marked trail towards Treadway Mountain and Clear Pond Lean-to. At 1.8 miles reach a third intersection. Straight ahead leads 0.3 miles to the southwest shore; left goes to Treadway Mountain.
You can reach the third intersection by canoe, avoiding about 1.5 miles each way of hiking. Put in at the Putnam Pond State Campground boat launch and paddle to the southwest shore boat landing 613759,4854544. Follow the hiking trail 0.3 miles to the third intersection.
From the third intersection, follow the red-marked trail towards Treadway Mountain. The trail climbs steadily. At 1 hr 30 min the trail switchbacks down into a ravine and crosses a faint stream, then turns left with a yellow-arrow sign pointing the way 611855,4854306. Leave the trail and bushwhack due south following this stream. At the first open, boggy meadow, stay high on the west bank, then leave the drainage 611910,4853728 and contour southwest to the cliff. (The stream continues south, then doglegs west into Devil's Washdish below the cliff; the bushwhacking along this section is not recommended.) At 2 hr arrive at the right end of the cliff 611641,4853357.
If you want to reach the top of the cliff, instead of leaving the trail at the ravine, continue on the hiking trail another 7 minutes to a 10'-high rock step. Scramble up then, then leave the trail to the left and follow cairns and occasional flagging across open rock slabs, staying on the height of land. Reach the cliff near the top of the North Country for Old Men 611410,4853462.
The Number of the Beast 5.11b G 70' ★★★★
Start: 120' left of The Devil You Know, at an obvious left-rising handrail that begins 10' up and leads to a large right-facing corner.
P1 5.11b G: Follow the handrail and make some hard moves to gain the corner. Stem up the corner and around the large roof to another hard series of moves around a smaller roof using the arête. Easier climbing leads to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: to 1"
One of the major features of the cliff is a huge, smooth, 200'-tall, 80'-wide slab known as the Treadway Face, located left of center on the cliff. It is quite prominent in aerial photography (Bing's "birdseye" images) but is virtually invisible from below due to low roofs. The left side has a single point of access, however, and marks the start of The Devil You Know. Unlike many slabs in the Adirondacks, this one has no exfoliation, and is completely lacking any major features (no corners, cracks, corners, or overlaps).
The Devil You Know 5.10c G 250' ★★★★
Start: On the left side of the Treadway Face 611353,4853432. Walking left along the base of the cliff, you will come to some very large, low, crumbly roofs, which define the bottom of the Treadway Face, hidden above. Walk uphill and left under these roofs to almost the height of the terrain and a small opening onto the slab with several left-leaning flakes.
P1 5.7 G ★★★★: This fantastic pitch can be climbed by itself, as it ends at a fixed anchor (a 70m rope is required to rappel from this anchor). Gain the slab via the left-leaning flakes, then go straight up using fixed protection and ample vertical slots for gear. 130'
● P2 5.1 G: Traverse left along a ledge to a fixed anchor at the left side of the slab. 40'
P3 5.10c ★★★: On the left side of the Treadway Face is a huge, right-facing wall. This pitch climbs a steep crack on this gently-overhanging wall. Step left across the vegetated gully to an alcove at the base of the obvious crack. Climb the fantastic crack past a rightwards dogleg to the top. Tree anchor. 80'
Gear: P1 requires a sparse rack to 2.5". P3 requires a single rack to 3".
Descent: From the top, walk right to the top of the Treadway Face, then continue down and climber's right to a tree on the edge of a right-facing wall. A 60' rappel leads to a terrace. From here you can scramble down climber's right to the base of the cliff.
Closed project. Scramble up the gully as for North Country for Old Men. Continue up to a cedar growing in the corner, then through a hidden step behind the cedar to a higher terrace. This project climbs an obvious cleaned crack in a right-facing wall.
North Country for Old Men 5.11a G 160' ★★★★★
Incredible position on the tallest section of cliff. The climbing on P2 is fantastic, and is well worth the walk to get here. Mostly fixed protection, but there are some necessary gear placements on each pitch.
Start: Right of the Treadway Face is a gully in a giant right-facing corner. On the face right of the corner is a broken chimney and wet streak that ices up in the winter. Scramble up the gully, through a short corner, then up until you can move right to a ledge with a red pine below a slab right of the wet, broken chimney. You can also rappel to this point from the anchor at the top of the route 611410,4853462.
◉ P1 5.7 G: Step left up a slab to steps that lead to a notch (#0.5 Camalot). Go through this to a blueberry ledge below the slab. Go straight up the slab to a short right-facing corner. Up the face right of the corner (#0.4 Camalot), then step left to a spacious ledge on top of the corner. Fixed anchor. 80'
◉ P2 5.11a G: Step right off the ledge and climb up an overhanging right-facing corner system to a sloping ledge. Go up a crack that starts in a shallow left-facing corner, then up the overhanging face to a fixed anchor at the top. 80'
Gear: 1 ea green Alien; #0.3, #0.4, #0.5 Camalots.
The right side of the cliff has two beautiful, open clearings at the base, presumably the bombardment zones for falling ice. 30' above this is a terrace that spans nearly the entire right end of the cliff. The routes Lichen Boobies, Rural Juror, and Soul Sacrifice begin from this terrace. Gain the ledge from the left; a couple cairns mark the short gully approach through orange rock.
Rural Juror 5.11b G 70' ★★★★
An exercise in technical stemming on compact, difficult-to-read light-colored rock.
Start: Near the left end of the Lichen Boobies terrace is a wide chimney through black rock and capped by a large overhang. Begin 15' left of the chimney below a shallow right-facing corner in light-colored rock.
● P1 5.11b G: Go up the corner to its top, then foot traverse left to a shallow, 5'-high, left-facing corner. Go up the corner, then up the seam to a right-facing corner. Up this to its top, then climb up and left to a fixed anchor. 70'
Iron Maiden 5.11a G 100' ★★★
Excellent climbing up an impressive corner, and a deceptively hard (and exposed) diagonal crack. Slow to dry.
Start: At a huge right-facing, right-leaning corner that defines the left side of the Soul Sacrifice face. Scramble up and left from the start of Soul Sacrifice to a good ledge below the corner.
P1 5.11a G: Go up the face following the right-leaning corner, then break left on jugs and go up the overhanging wall to a right-leaning crack in black rock. Follow the right-leaning crack (crux) to the Boobie Trap arête, then traverse up and left to a fixed anchor. 100'
Gear: Standard rack to #2 Camalot.
Soul Sacrifice 5.5 G 100'
This route climbs an attractive, naturally protected corner, then finds an easy, less-attractive way off the cliff. The variation is recommended and provides a challenging and more direct finish.
Start: Left of Lichen Boobies is a large right-facing corner. Scramble up the corner to a high ledge and begin below a left-facing, left-arching corner on the right wall.
P1 5.5 G: Climb a clean crack in the arching corner to its top at an overhanging headwall. Continue up and right for 15' following an open book formed by the main face and the headwall to some cedars, (V1) then traverse straight right to the woods. 100'
V1 Boobie Trap 5.7+ G ★★★: A better finish. The first ascent avoided the "boobie trap" (5.10a R) by exiting the corner at the appropriate time. Go up a right-facing corner and the arête to its left. Move left around the arête using jugs, then traverse up and left along a horizontal crack to a fixed anchor shared with Iron Maiden.
Lichen Boobies 5.8 PG 70' ★★★
This route ascends a black, naturally-clean, blunt arête. A great warmup.
Start: Gain the terrace that divides the right end of the cliff above the open clearings. Walk right on the terrace past a huge chimney to a large right-facing corner. Begin below the black arête 25' right of the corner.
● P1 5.8 PG: Climb the arête to a large ledge at the top. Fixed anchor. 70'
Wet Hot American Pumper 5.11b G 100' ★★★★
Start: From the base of Secret Agent, scramble (3rd class) left on sloping ledges to the base of a black wall. Begin at a fixed station just right of a thin crack in black rock. Slow to dry (like the Poke-O Waterfall).
● P1 5.11b G: Step left from the station and climb the thin crack to a horizontal rail. Mantel this, then go straight up the steepening face (crux) to its top. Pull onto a slab and run up to a fixed anchor. 100'
Secret Agent (project)
Closed project. On the right end of the cliff, above a continuation of the Lichen Boobies terrace, is a beautiful, smooth, overhanging, black-streaked face. Climb a left-leaning seam on the left side of this face to its top, then angle up and right to a fixed anchor.
The Future Wall is mentioned [Volume 1, page 252] as having the greatest potential for new routes at Washbowl Pond. Indeed.
The west-facing wall is 130' tall, but the routes stop at a natural breaking point below the dirty, loose upper section. The base of the cliff is open and pleasant, a great place to be.
To set a toprope, walk right and up a broad gully separating the Future Wall from the Banana Belt. Once up the initial section of the gully, walk left to a short wall and follow this steeply downhill, then (skier's) right on ledges above the lower wall. You'll need to make a short rappel to safely reach the anchors.
It's About Time 5.11b G 75' ★★★
A straight-up face climb with great moves and a unique three-finger hole.
Start: 15' left of License to Thrill, below a horizontal handcrack 6' up, and 6' right of a firepit.
◉ P1 5.11b G: Go up past the horizontal crack to a left-rising seam. Follow this to another horizontal break (yellow Alien). Step left and climb straight up to a hole in orange rock. Go up and left to a ledge, then step back right. Continue straight up the wall to a ledge and fixed anchor. 75'
Gear: A yellow Alien (a #0.4 Camalot works also), and an optional second yellow Alien for the top.
License to Thrill 5.12d G 65' ★★★★★
Supreme, intricate, technical face climbing.
Start: Just left of the base of the right-rising ramp of Not Too Steep for my Lichen below a head-high horizontal crack.
● P1 5.12d G: Climb past several horizontal cracks, then up a left-facing edge. Continue straight up the face to a left-rising horizontal crack, then straight up to the top at a fixed anchor. 65'
Not Too Steep for my Lichen 5.12c G 65' ★★★★★
A gorgeous and aesthetic line. It has bigger holds than its neighbor, but is steeper.
Start: On the right side of the wall at a 2'-deep right-rising ramp.
● P1 5.12c G: Walk up right along the ramp (optional #0.5 Camalot), then layback and undercling up left-arching flakes to their top. Make a hard move (crux) to a coarse baseball-shaped hold, then reach right to some jugs. Layback to the top of the face and a fixed anchor. 65'
❏The hardware on Chiquita [route #9, volume 1, page 254] has been updated and a fixed anchor added, shared with Banana Hammock. Chiquita is a destination-worthy 5.9.
★ New variation to Do You Feel Lucky [route #1, volume 1, page 163].
V1 Gentle and Soft 5.9+ R: Begin 15' right and climb the striking fingercrack using pods for 15', then mantel a sloping ledge. Traverse left 15' (crux, unprotected) to join the normal route to the top.
Blind Stoke 5.11b G 100' ★★★
[Between routes #5 and #6, volume 1, page 163]
A good route with a brief, well-protected, crux on excellent rock. The easier climbing has some subpar rock.
Start: 40' right of the large roofs at a left-leaning crack system in a steep wall.
P1 5.11b G: Climb up to an alcove 10' up. Move left to another crack and up into a smaller, higher alcove. Follow left-leaning seams (crux) to where the angle eases. Go up an easy slab to join Josey Wales [route #5, volume 1, page 163] to the top. Fixed anchor on a tree. 100'
Gear: To 2".
❏There is a new fixed anchor at the top of Capsaicin Corner [route #5 (incorrectly spelled Caspian Corner), volume 2, page 448] on the "surfboard" ledge.
❏There is a new fixed anchor between Tales of Weakness [route #13, volume 2, page 451] and Finger Lock'n Good [route #14 (since renamed), volume 2, page 451] which serves as a belay for these two routes, as well as a for rappel descent. (A single 70m rope will get you down.)
❏The P2 anchor for Great Northern Diver [route #11, volume 2, page 450] is now a proper fixed anchor, making this one of the premier single-pitch routes of the region. (You no longer need gear to back up this anchor as described in the book.) P1 of this route is just a scramble to get to the start, and P3 is merely a linkup to reach the anchor below Finger Lock'n Good (there is now a better approach to this route from Window Box Ledge).
❏The route Finger Lickin' Good [route #14, volume 2, page 451] has been cleaned, led, and renamed Finger Lock'n Good.
Finger Lock'n Good 5.10c G 110' ★★★★
A long-time project previously documented as Finger Lickin' Good.
Start: At the fixed anchor between Tales of Weakness and the base of this crack. There is a clean 5.6 pitch which leads to this anchor from Window Box Ledge [this ledge is labeled "A" in the photo diagram on page 450, volume 2].
P1 5.10c G: Step right and climb easy slab to a short left-facing corner. Up the corner and into the obvious right-leaning fingercrack. Follow this past a devious crux to a pin where the crack becomes vertical. Continue up to a large cedar and follow a handcrack (5.7) to the top. 110'
Gear: Standard rack with small nuts.
The Wheelchair Ramp 5.9- PG 100' ★★★
Start: 55' left of the vegetated gully and 40' left of Famous From The Pain at a right-arching flake that rises directly from the ground and becomes a prominent right-facing corner.
P1 (5.9- PG): Climb the flake (or the face to the right) to the corner. Climb the corner using the intermittent crack to a ledge at its top. 100'
Descent: Rap or lower with single 60m rope.
Gear: To 1" plus Tricams and RP's. The protection is good where you need it, but not straight forward, and some placements are critical for keeping the route PG; if you miss key gear, the route becomes R.
Famous From the Pain 5.11a G 290' ★★★★★
Start: Left of Crackus Interuptus [route #19, page 452, volume 2] and 15' left of the vegetated gully just left of where the lower approach trail meets the cliff. This is below a clean-cut right-facing corner 30' up that leads to a massive roof.
P1 5.9 G: Climb face and thin cracks to the excellent right-facing corner (V1). Layback to its top, then jam right under the roof for 25' and break the roof at a handcrack. Follow the crack to its top and face climb up and left to a fixed anchor. 130'
P2 5.11a G: Climb easy face right to a stance below a clean left-facing corner guarded by a roof. Climb over the roof and up the corner (V2) and thin cracks to a stance below the next roof. Climb out the roof via twin handcracks and follow these to a fixed anchor on the right. 100'
P3 5.10a G: Climb the clean face between grungy opposing corners. 60'
V1 Thin Privilege 5.10c G ★★★★: A good pitch as a route itself or as a harder first pitch to the regular route. Instead of stepping right into the corner, head straight up through a bulge. Climb face and thin cracks just to the left of the arête to a stance below a left-facing corner. Up the corner (run out but easy), clip a directional bolt and walk right to a belay. Gear to 1" plus a #2 Camalot.
V2 Painkiller 5.9 G ★★★★: Not as excellent as the regular P2 but it does drop the overall route grade from 5.11a to 5.10a. From the top of the corner traverse right across the slab to a bolt. Continue right around an arête, then up to and through the roof via the hand- and fist-crack which becomes an offwidth corner. At a cedar traverse 10' left to the standard P2 belay. Careful rope management is required to reduce rope drag. Gear to 4".
Descent: Rap with a single 70m rope.
Gear: Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
❏The route Tooth & Nail [route #7, volume 2, page 455] is more like 5.10c/d.
❏P1 of Silver Flake [route #9, volume 2, page 456] has been cleaned to climbable condition:
Start: Right side of the depression where it makes a left-facing corner.
P1 5.6 PG: Climb the corner to a belay at an obvious crack (#4 Camalot).
Present Tense 5.9 G 60' ★★
Nice face climbing on clean rock after the initial corner.
Start: 40' left and uphill from Quercus Rubra, beneath a left-facing corner with an overhang 40' up.
● P1 5.9 G: Climb 6' up the corner, then diagonal up and left across the face until below the left end of the overhang. Climb the overhang and short left-facing corner (crux) to a good stance. Increasingly easy climbing leads to a great 3rd class slab and a fixed anchor (shared with Bruised Orange) 60'
Bruised Orange 5.7 G 60' ★★★
Well-protected corner, face, and arête climbing.
Start: Same as Present Tense.
● P1 5.7 G: Climb the left-facing corner for 15' until an obvious pull around the corner. Climb up the face to a slab with a fixed anchor (shared with Present Tense). 60'
Quercus Rubra 5.9+ G (5.4 X) 225' ★★★
Two nice (and very different) pitches of climbing that will improve with additional cleaning of the final slab.
Start: 150' left of red, black & blue, past the brushy depression of Silver Flake [route #9, volume 2, page 456], and past some low ceilings. Begin below a face at a waist-high shelf that makes a great bench to shoe up on. There is a small left-facing flake 10' above that.
● P1 5.9+ G: Climb the face past a crux mantel onto the flake. Continue up and slightly left, past a bulge to enter a narrow, black water groove. Go over a final small bulge to a fixed anchor. Harder if short. 75'
P2 5.9+ G (5.4 X): Go up and right over blocks (5.4 X) to a left-facing corner. Jam up the corner, then move left to a cool "handlebar" hold. Go up the face past some finger pods to the base of a short, wide, crack-like groove. Move up groove to a stance out left (a #5, then #3 Camelots helpful). Step right onto a narrow slab and climb to a fixed anchor. A great and varied pitch that has lots of 5.8 in the middle sections. 150'
Gear: Standard rack from small TCUs through to #5 Camalot. Double up on the #2 and #3 Camalots. Aliens work well in the finger pods of P2.
Descent: Two rappels (130', then 70'). Alternatively, walk (climber's) right; easy 15 min.
Wasted Reprise 5.10b PG 105' ★★★★
Excellent crack climbing with a splitter offwidth in the upper section.
Start: Climb P1 of Silver Flake [route #9, volume 2, page 456] and continue another 30' uphill on grassy terrain in the depression to a fixed anchor at the beginning of a left-arching crack–flake on the right wall. Above is a large nose-like feature, the right side of which forms an offwidth crack.
P1 5.10b PG: Awkward moves off the belay gain the crack. Jam and layback (5.10a G) to a slab. Go up the slab to the base of the offwidth. Go up this 7" crack which gradually opens to 12" at the top; there's a hidden crack on the inside that takes #0.4 to #2 Camalots, plus a #3 for a directional at the top. Exit right at the top of the crack and climb the right wall to a fixed anchor (shared with Do the Evolution). 105'
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope.
Do the Evolution 5.10b G 125' ★★★★
Harder if short.
Start: At the P1 belay of Silver Flake [route #9, volume 2, page 456]. Gear anchor in the crack (#4 Camelot).
P1 5.10bG: Climb the first 20' of the Silver Flake crack (#2 and #3 Camalots). When the crack goes right, exit left onto the face and climb up and left (5.9) to the base of a short open book. Go up the open book (crux) to a stance. Follow shallow ramps and flakes up and onto a slab (5.9). Climb the slab past a series of shallow slashing cracks and angle left when the angle eases to a fixed anchor (shared with Wasted Reprise) 125'
Gear: Cams from blue to red Metolious (extra blue and yellow) plus small to medium stoppers.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope (using the starting anchor of Wasted Reprise)
red, black & blue 5.11a G (5.7 R) 185' ★★★★★
This is a superb, quick-to-dry, two-pitch route. P1 is similar the upper section of Adirondack Iron featuring several thin 5.10 sections on perfect, clean, water-worn stone. P2 has great variety with an awkward-leaning ramp, thin fingers in a corner, a short traverse, and a final face crux on the same perfect rock.
Start: Right of Silver Flake [route #9, volume 2, page 456] is a left-rising horizontal crack 12' up. Begin just left of a large maple tree growing up against the cliff, at a chocolate-colored, undulating slab with bolts.
P1 5.11a G: (V1) Boulder up to the horizontal crack (#0.75 Camalot), then go up clean, black rock to an overlap (first crux). Pull over the overlap, and go up to the base of the attractive (and steeper) upper slab. Climb on top of a hollow flake and up onto the slab. Increasingly difficult moves lead to a final hard move (second crux) to reach a bucket. Finish up a vertical crack (small to medium cams) to fixed anchor shared with Silver Flake. 95'
P2 5.10c G (5.7 R): Go up and right (5.7 R) to a narrow, right-rising ramp. Awkward moves up the ramp (5.9, unobvious but bomber keyhole medium nut along the way) lead a good stance at the base of a left-facing open book. Climb the open book (5.9+) to jugs at its top, then move left and onto a ledge. Traverse left onto a clean, black headwall. Up this to where the angle eases, then run out (5.7 R) to a fixed anchor on a small ledge. 90'
V1 5.7 G: Start 20' to the right and climb the horizontal crack to the stance below 1st bolt.
Gear: For P1: #0.75, small to medium nuts, finger-sized and smaller cams for the anchor; for P2: #0.4, small to medium nuts.
Descent: Rappel the route with a single 60m rope.
Objects In Motion 5.10b A0 165' ★★★★
Start: At a large oak with slings on the ledge at the top of P1 of Sinner Repent [route #16, volume 2, page 458]. Climb this route, or P1 of Connecticut Yankee [route #17, volume 2, page 458], or approach via rappel.
P1 5.10b A0 PG: Climb up the face to a dike. Hand-traverse a few moves right then mantel onto the dike and a good stance. Use two points of aid gain the left-facing corner and climb to its top, Step right to a good ledge with a fixed anchor. 70'
P2 5.10a G: Step back left and climb up to a hollow flake-corner, then go straight up as the angle eases to a short handcrack in a bulge. Climb the handcrack (shared with Sinner Repent) to its top and make a bizarre mantel (crux), then follow cracks to the top. 95'
Descent: Three rappels with a 70m rope.
This closed project begins partway up Connecticut Yankee [route #16, volume 2, page 458] where the flake becomes an overhang. Move right at the end of the overhang and onto a right-rising ramp. Climb this to its end (5.9). For the next pitch, traverse right on friction towards Adirondack Iron, then traverse up and left to reach a crack-groove. At its top, weave up and left through bulges to the top of Connecticut Yankee.
Adirondack Iron 5.10b PG 250' ★★★★
This route is the first to break the beautiful, sheer, streaked wall right of Connecticut Yankee. P2 is especially good.
Start: At an obvious right-leaning groove 30' right of Connecticut Yankee [route #16, volume 2, page 458].
P1 5.9- PG: Climb the groove, which becomes a right-facing corner, past a couple of steep sections to it's top. Mantle onto the excellent ledge, then walk 20' left to a fixed anchor. 100'
◉ P2 5.10b PG: Climb easy terrain up and left to the top of a pillar. Climb up and right to a run-out on easier terrain and then straight up as the wall steepens, aiming for a crack at the skyline. The short crack provides a wild and fitting finish (mandatory #1 Camalot placement). Fixed anchor. 150'
Gear: P1 requires a standard rack to #4 Camalot. P2 requires a #1 Camalot.
Descent: Rappel with a single 70m rope.
Origins Reconsidered 5.10+ G 120' ★★★★
Start: At the top of P1 of Adirondack Iron. Build an anchor directly where P1 of Adirondack Iron reaches the ledge (Camalots #0.75 to #2, nuts).
P1 5.10+ G: Climb straight above the belay to a sloping ledge at the base of opposing dihedrals. Go to the top of the right-leaning corner and make a hard exit to a stance. Mantle past a bolt, and cruise up and left to the obvious crack. Up the crack past a few sections of thin-hands jamming (steeper and harder than it looks from below)to its top, then up twin summit cracks through a small roof. 120'
Descent: A single rap with two 60m ropes. Alternatively, rap with a single 70m to the ledge, then walk left to the P1 fixed anchor on Adirondack Iron and rappel from there.
Gear: Single cams from blue TCU to #2 Camelot, med and large nuts, plus an extra #0.75 and #1 Camalot.
Shamrock 5.10b G 140' ★★★★
Climbs through the right-arching overlap left of the larger right-arching overlap of Every Inch Counts [route #14, volume 2, page 480].
Start: On the smile-shaped ledge at a fixed anchor on top of a smaller ledge midway between the top of P1 of Positive Latitude [route #13, volume 2, page 478] and Every Inch Counts.
P1 5.10b G: Climb the beautiful dimpled face past the arching overlap (crux) to a fixed anchor. 140'
Directions: Climbers have been using a new option. [This option adds to the three described in volume 2, pages 469–470]. Option 4: From the Jutting Block Wall [mentioned in the approach to the Outback Slab, volume 2, page 468], go up the steep slope on its left side to the Outback Slab (40 min from the trailhead to here). Go left along the base of the Outback Slab, then along the top of Midway Cliff. When you come to van-sized bounders, go right uphill to El Niņo Presents (55 min). To reach Trillium, continue up and left along the base of the cliff (1 hr).
El Niņo Presents 5.8 G 65' ★
Nice jamming in a narrow dihedral.
Start: On the lower right-hand section of the Wayback Cliff, look for hanging opposing corners capped by a roof 60' up. Begin 50' left of this feature, and 20' left of an octopus-like yellow birch growing out of the cliff, at a block leaning against the cliff below an attractive, narrow corner above.
P1 5.8 G: Climb to the top of the block, then continue up the corner to the top. Step right (#4 Camelot) onto a ledge with a fixed anchor. 65'
Gear: Single set cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camelot, hexes.
Mad Season (project)
This closed project climbs through an amazing octopus-like yellow birch, and has a 6"-wide offwidth crux. Begin 20' right of El Niņo Presents below the octopus-like yellow birch, at a shallow right-facing corner with a thin crack. There is a 6"-wide crack 3' to the right. Hard moves (5.10) off the ground lead to and through the tree. Continue up the corner to a ledge. Climb the offwidth crack above (#6 Camalots) to the ledge. Step left to the fixed anchor on El Niņo Presents. Reported in the 5.10 range, and 65'.
Trillium 5.10- G 330' ★★★★
The lower slab is one of the most attractive features on Wayback Cliff. P2 has great climbing and position on obvious black buttress above and right of the Mr. Peabody [route #1, volume 2, page 470] slab.
Start: At the extreme lowest point of the clean and narrow Mr. Peabody slab, and very shallow twin cracks.
P1 5.7 PG: Climb directly up the slab to a bolt 40' up. Go up and slightly right to a hidden slot (0.5 Camalot), then up and slightly left to a shallow pocket (red Alien). Run up easy slab to a second bolt where the angle steepens. Face climb up and right (V1) past a short steeper section, then up low-angle slab (V2) to the lower of two pine trees. There is a fixed sling and quick link here for protection for both leader and follower. Down climb along the left-facing wall and over secure blocks. Step left (skiers) around the corner to a flat 5'x5' belay corral with a fixed anchor. A cool place to be. 190'
P2 5.10- G: Climb the offwidth and left-face for 15' to a stance, then up twin cracks (5.8) to a large ledge. Go up a shallow dihedral (5.9) past three bolts. Face moves (5.9+ ) lead to cracks and a bulge; over this (hidden bucket) to a stance. Go over another bulge to a crack and low-angle terrain. Cruise up to a steeper, clean, black face with two bolts. Climb the thin face (crux) up and left to a shallow crack. Up the crack and arête to a fixed anchor. Great moves and position on this pitch. 140'
V1 5.9- PG: Face climb up and left from the second bolt past a small, hollow overlap. Angle up and right to rejoin the regular route.
V2 5.6 G: Move straight right after the crux to the blocks in the corner. R for the follower.
Gear: P1: 0.5 Camalot, red Alien; P2: green C3, single cams from blue Alien to 0.75 Camelot, an extra finger sized cam, small/medium nuts.
Descent: Two rappels from fixed anchors, both require two 60M ropes.
Location: South of Piseco Lake just north of Good Luck Mountain, accessed from NY 10.
Approach: 35 min, moderate
Summary: Well-developed cliff with many high-quality, single-pitch, crack, face, and chimney routes.
This cliff sits high on the north shoulder of State Brook Mountain. Facing northwest, Statebrook fills a need for single-pitch cragging in the shade. It's 100' tall and roughly 300' wide, and consists of a collection of beautiful faces split by deep chimneys, slots, and depressions—an unusual geometry for Adirondack cliffs. The deep slots offer more climbing surface, as some of the routes are nestled on the inside walls of these slots.
The rock is mostly excellent with quartz ribs and sections pink bullet-hard rock reminiscent of Lake Lila and Lost Hunters. Like most cliffs, though, there are occasional sections of substandard rock too, and the routes are still new and a little dirty.
Every route has a clip-in style fixed anchor for lowering. These are located on the cliff face, and are not accessible from the top except by rappel. Some routes are designed to be stick-clipped.
The area is relatively compact considering the number of routes here (and potential for more). To simplify organization, the cliff has been divided into sections: the Left End, Biscuit Buttress, Beaver Wall, and the Right End.
The area has been published in an.
Directions: From the intersection of NY 10 and NY 29A (0.0 mile), drive north on NY 10. At 5.8 miles reach a bridge across the West Branch of the Sacandaga River (this is just past the parking for the Lost Crags). At 6.0 miles reach the parking for Good Luck Mountain on the right. At 7.3 miles there is a driveway on the right with a yellow posted sign; this driveway is the only break in a long wire guiderail, and just before the driveway is a green highway mileage marker that reads 10/2205/1043. Park on the west side of the road on the ample shoulder 536444,4791290. The trail to the cliff begins on the west side of the road directly across from the driveway.
If approaching from the north, from the intersection of NY 10 and NY 8, drive south on NY 10 for 10.1 miles, just past a low, red-colored log cabin on the left. Look for the driveway on the left that breaks a wire guiderail, and park on the right shoulder of the road 536444,4791290.
From the road (0 hr 0 min), follow the trail into the woods. At 4 min reach a vague fork in the trail; stay left and intersect an old snowmobile trail. Cross this and follow (what appears to be) an old roadbed to where it fades, at which point the path veers right and crosses a stream. Follow the trail moderately uphill to the cliff at 35 min. The trail reaches the cliff at its left end 535017,4790832 at the route Bowline with a Blow Job Finish.
The Left End contains the cluster of routes where the approach trail meets the cliff.
Tyler Knows Mr Toad 5.8 PG 25'
Start: 4' left of Only the Toad Knows below a left-hand pod 6' up.
P1 5.8 PG: Go up the face to a fragile, right-facing flake 15' up. Continue to a horizontal, then up a short crack to the top. Reach right to the fixed anchor of Tyler Knows Mr. Toad. 25'
Only the Toad Knows 5.9 G 25' ★★
Start: 45' uphill and left of where the trail meets the cliff, and 15' left of the prominent, left-facing corner-flake high on Berly Arête, below a crack that bisects a horizontal crack 20' up.
P1 5.9 G: Climb the crack to a fixed anchor on the left. 25'
Berly Arête 5.9 PG 50' ★★
Unusual positions and a unique rock rail up high. It ascends the prominent left-facing corner-flake at the left end of the cliff.
Start: 6' downhill and right of the arête, just where the terrain rises to the left, below a face with a bolt 12' up.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb the face, then move left to the arête. Follow the arête to a ledge at its top. Go up the face above to a fixed anchor. 50'
Hollies High Step 5.8 G 70' ★★
The wide crack down low is a little dirty, but the layback crack up high more than makes up for it.
Start: Just left of where the approach trail meets the cliff at a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling 10' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb the corner through the roof, then follow a crack that widens and snakes up and right into a left-facing open book. There's a fixed anchor on the left wall at the top of the open book. 70'
Three Lions 5.11a G 70' ★★★
A terrific face climb, and one of the best routes here. Formerly named Bowline...
Start: Where the approach trail meets the cliff, 6' right of the left-facing corner of Hollies High Step, and 6' left of The Inverted Englishman.
◉ P1 5.11a G: Go straight up the face past several horizontals to a fixed anchor on a ledge. 70'
Gear: #0.5 Camalot.
The Inverted Englishman 5.7+ G 70' ★★★
Start: Below a crack with a tree 40' up, 6' right of Three Lions, and 3' left of a right-facing corner that goes up to a high roof 50' up (the route The Englishman Direct)
P1 5.7+ G: Climb the crack to the tree. Move past the tree on the right. Step right and climb the face left of a flared slot in a roof (The Englishman Direct joins in here) to a ledge. Walk left 12' to a fixed anchor shared with Three Lions. 70'
The Englishman Direct 5.7+ G 80' ★★★
Start: 3' right of The Inverted Englishman below a right-facing corner that begins 7' up.
P1 5.8 G: Climb up into the corner and follow this to a roof 50' up. Break the roof at the flared slot (join The Inverted Englishman here), then up a face to a ledge. Walk left 12' to a fixed anchor shared. 80'
The Perverted Polishman 5.8 G 70' ★★★
Start: Just right of The Englishman Direct.
P1 5.8 G: Go up blocks, then up into a left-facing corner (this corner opposes the right-facing corner of The Englishman Direct forming a stem box). Go up the corner to a roof. Break this on the right via a right-leaning wide crack. Follow this up and right, then left, then straight up to a fixed anchor. 70'
The Priest Kept My Underwear 5.10 PG 80' ★★★★
Start: 15' left of a prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney and 15' right of a deep depression (centered on the buttress, in fact).
P1 5.10 PG: Climb up a right-leaning crack to a ledge, then straight up to a roof. Break the roof on its right side following the same crack system up into some orange rock capped by a large roof. Move right and break this roof at an obvious crack. Just above is a fixed anchor on the left wall. 80'
Jennelle and the Terrible Horrible No Good Very Bad Day 5.11 PG 80' ☆????
Start: Right of The Priest Kept My Underwear is a deep, bottom-to-top chimney. Begin on the left wall of the chimney below a large roof.
P1 5.11 PG: Climb up the left wall and break the roof on the left via a crack. Follow the crack to its top, then step right go up a yellow-orange face to a very large roof at the top of the cliff. Break this at a thin crack (about 5' right of where The Priest Kept My Underwear breaks the roof) and continue to a fixed anchor. 80'
This is the buttress defined on its left by the prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney, and on its right side by a deep chimney-gully with log terracing at its base.
The Success of Sully's Bride 5.7+ PG 90' ★★★
Unusual (for the Adirondacks, anyway) climbing up a wide chimney. Great position and stemming. Add a #1 Camalot to make the route G.
Start: Below the right side of the prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney that defines the left side of the Biscuit Buttress.
● P1 5.7+ PG: Climb the right-side inside wall of the chimney up through the slot to a fixed anchor. Stay on the outside of the chockstones. 90'
Batman has it in for Robin 5.11 PG 90' ☆????
Start: Same as The Success of Sully's Bride.
P1 5.11 PG: Move up and right onto the face right of the chimney. Up the face to a ledge, then up orange rock to a large roof. Bypass the roof on the left (joining for a moment The Success of Sully's Bride), then move up and right to the arête, around this to the outside face, then up to a fixed anchor shared with Sully's Belay. 90'
Sully's Belay 5.11b PG 90'
Somewhat dirty down low and some poor rock in the orange section. The holds above the roof are good, though.
Start: At a vertical crack 10' right of the prominent, deep, bottom-to-top chimney.
P1 5.11b PG: Go up the vertical crack, then up the orange face (same as for Batman has it in for Robin). Move up and right into a hanging left-facing corner in the roof. Break the roof on good holds, then go straight up to a fixed anchor shared with Batman has it in for Robin. 90'
Butter My Butt and Call Me a Biscuit 5.8 G 90' ★★
Despite following a wide crack, this is more of a face climb.
Start: 12' right of Sully's Belay below a wide, full-height crack with a chockstone at the bottom.
● P1 5.8 G: Go up past the chockstone to a ledge, then up the wide crack to the top. The route finishes straight up to a fixed anchor, but it's also possible to finish at the Sully's Belay anchor. 90'
Uncle Hal Direct 5.10 G 70' ★★★
Start: 10' right of Butter My Butt and Call Me a Biscuit, and 10' left of Uncle Hal's Arête, at a chest-high horizontal crack that goes into the right-rising slope.
P1 5.10 G: Climb up the face to a horizontal crack 12' up, then up a short crack to a ledge. Continue up a short left-facing corner and climb this to where it angles left, then up the face (bolts) to a double-tiered roof. Step right and go up a right-facing corner to the arête and join Uncle Hal's Arête to a fixed anchor. 70'
Uncle Hal's Arête 5.8 PG 70'
Start: On a small ledge on the left side of the entrance to the deep chimney-gully that defines the right side of the Biscuit Buttress.
P1 5.8 PG: Climb up into a right-arching corner. From its top, step right and go up the inside wall of the chimney-gully to a high fixed anchor above the arête. 70'
Big Bro 5.8 PG 60' ★★
Start: Go up the log terraces in the chimney-gully to the top of the dirt cone. Begin on the left wall below a roof 10' up.
Climb up the face to the roof, over this, then up the face (stemming as necessary) to a fixed anchor. 60'
This is the tall wall that begins at the log-terraced chimney-gully and extends rightwards to a right-rising, stepped roof system. Just right of this is another deep chimney-slot. The crack and face climbing here is excellent, although the routes are still new and somewhat mossy.
Sully's Success 5.6 G 60' ★★★
Start: The same stance as Big Bro, except facing the right wall.
P1 5.6 G: Climb face to roof, then step right around the roof and follow a crack and flake system to a fixed anchor at the top of the wall. 60'
The Boy Scout Leader Likes Me 5.11a G 80' ★★★
Quality climbing with an out-of-character crux move near the top. You can avoid this by moving left to finish on Sully's Success (making the overall grade 5.10a).
Start: At a large white pitch tree on the right side of the mouth of a chimney-gully that defines the right side of the Biscuit Buttress.
P1 5.11a G: Step right onto the outside face of the cliff and climb a good crack to its top, then up the face past a horizontal crack to a ledge (shared with Sully's Success). Move up and right to a right-leaning crack; up this a few feet, then move left onto the face (crux) and climb this to a horizontal break. Shuffle right, then up to a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: 1 ea #0.3, #0.4, and #2 Camalots; green Alien.
Monsters Inc. 5.10c PG 90' ★
Start: Downhill and right of The Boy Scout Leader Likes Me at a flared crack that begins 8' up.
P1 5.10c PG: Go up the flared crack (crux move down low) to a V-slot, step right to the next crack and climb this discontinuous system straight up the face to a fixed anchor. 90'
Wally Your Finger Smells Like the Beaver 5.10b G 90' ★★★★
Excellent face and crack climbing, with a short section of exceptional pink rock in the middle. A little dirty.
Start: 6' right of Monsters Inc. at a crack that begins at the ground.
P1 5.10b G: Up the crack to a horizontal break. Move up and right 6', then up thin cracks and face with quartz ribs to pretty pink rock and a jug. At the tiny overlap, follow an easier crack straight up to a fixed anchor. 90'
Gary Goes Home Crying 5.9 PG 90' ★★
Start: At a right-facing corner that leads to a wide crack, 15' right of Wally Your Finger Smells Like the Beaver.
P1 5.9 PG: Climb the arête of the corner to gain the crack. Follow the crack as it widens to a chimney, then into a right-facing corner to a roof. Follow parallel crack on the right side of the roof to a fixed anchor at the top. 90'
The Far Side 5.9+ PG 90' ☆????
Start: 12' right of Gary Goes Home Crying is a large, protruding nose of rock low on the cliff. Begin below the left side of the nose.
P1 5.9+ PG: Go up the left side of the nose to a ledge on top of the nose. Diagonal up and left on a face to reach a thin crack. Follow this straight up to its top. Finish up the parallel cracks of Gary Goes Home Crying. 90'
Bipolar Express (aka Don's Long Climb) 5.10c PG 90' ★
A bit dirty, and not as good as it looks from below. Watch for rope drag in the corner at the start.
Start: Below the right side of the protruding nose of rock low on the cliff.
P1 5.10b R: Go up the right-facing corner of the nose to a narrow ledge on the left wall. Hand traverse left along the ledge to the outside face of the nose. Go left 6' and climb a thin crack system up the full height of the cliff. 90'
There are two open projects that break through the right-rising, stepped roof that defines the right side of the Beaver Wall. This one breaks through at a triangular slot. Fixed anchor.
Welcome to Statebrook 5.10 G 100' ★★
Start: 20' right of Bipolar Express on the right side of two, stacked, refrigerator-sized blocks.
P1 5.10 G: Go up to the top of the blocks, then traverse right under an overlap to a crack system. Follow this up into a large right-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb the corner to the roof, then traverse left 4' around the corner to a small tree. Follow a right-leaning, snaking crack to the top and fixed anchor. 100'
This section of cliff begins in the deep Mr. Poopers chimney-slot, and extends all the way to the right end of the cliff.
Mr. Poopers 5.11 PG 50' ☆????
Start: On the left wall just inside the entrance to the chimney-slot that defines the right end of the Beaver Wall.
P1 5.11 PG: Go up the overhanging wall to the left side of a large block hanging over the slot. 50'
Mr. Poopers Backside 5.8 PG 50'
Start: Deeper into the chimney-slot that defines the right end of the Beaver Wall, 12' up and right of Mr. Poopers below a crack on the left wall.
P1 5.8 PG: Up the crack, then stem up the chimney. Step left and climb the face up to the right side of the large block hanging over the slot. 50'
Thing 1 5.9 PG 50' ☆????
Start: To the right of the Mr. Poopers chimney-slot are a number of huge blocks stacked 30' high. Begin on the right side of the chimney-slot opening below a chimney in the blocks 10' up.
P1 5.9 PG: Go up into the chimney, then climb the left rib of the block forming the chimney to its top. Up an orange face past the left end of an overlap. Continue up and right to a fixed anchor. 50'
Snake in the Crack 5.6 PG 50' ★
Start: Same as UFC2.
P1 5.6 PG: Go up into the chimney formed by the blocks, then up and right to the top of the stacked blocks. Go up a left-facing open book to a crack. Follow this up and right, then back left to a fixed anchor shared with UFC2. 50'
Thing 2 5.10 PG 50' ☆????
Start: Same as UFC2.
P1 5.10 PG: Go up the outside face of the stacked blocks past several horizontals to the top of the stacked blocks. Join Snake in the Crack to the top. 50'
Dysphemism 5.8 PG 30'
Start: 30' right of the Mr. Poopers chimney-slot is another deep depression capped by roofs, and right of this is another buttress. Begin on the left side of this buttress at a thin crack.
P1 5.8 PG: (V1) Up the thin crack to two horizontals, move right 5', then climb a crack past a V-groove to a fixed anchor that straddles a crack below a pine tree. 30'
V1 5.10+ TR: Go directly up the face below the crack.
Evil Twin 5.8 G 20'
Start: Below an obvious, short, crack that begins 12' up. This is just left of a low roof, 36' right of the deep depression marking the start of Dysphemism, and just before the cliff diminishes to rubble.
P1 5.8 G: Climb to, then straight up the crack to a fixed anchor. 20'
❏Variation to Son of Circuitous Shit [route #5, volume 2, page 234].
V1 Grandson of Circuitous Shit 5.8- PG: Once you leave the chimney, exit right via a horizontal crack, then weave up the face to the next horizontal crack. Exit this crack and go right around the arête on to the upper slabs, straddling the arête. Join the normal route to the top.
Once They Moved Like the Wind 5.9 PG 150' ★★★
[Right of route #6, volume 2, page 389]
The climb has excellent finger locks in deep cracks and is surprisingly better than it appears. With some traffic and a bit of cleaning, this line would be as good as Do Me a Solid.
Start: Twelve feet right of Hart Pump at an obvious, diagonal crack.
P1 5.9 PG: Up the easy crack to a wide section and bush, which you pass on good holds. Continue in a right-rising line to another bush. Climb a short bulge (or move easily left to join the upper crack of Hart Pump, making the overall grade 5.8-) and up to a rippled pink face with a tips crack just to its right. Go up the face (crux), using the widening crack and superb locks. Join Hart Pump a few feet below the top. 150'
Wild Things 5.10b G (5.5 R) 70'
[Between routes #3 and #4, volume 2, page 106]
Follows the left-leaning crack that begins 25' up.
Start: 10' right of Wild Rumpus, at the low point of the terrain.
P1 5.10b G (5.5 R): Work up and right on easy terrain to a large flake resting on top of a ledge beneath a steep, left-leaning crack. Follow the crack through steep terrain and onto a delicate face beneath a large, crescent-shaped arête. Continue up and left between the two walls to a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Untamed Stimulation. 70'
Gear: To 3".
Shark Fin Cliff sits 600' upstream from the Boquet Canyon and on the same side of the river 600444,4885628. The cliff can be seen from the pool below Welcome to the Jungle [route #1, volume 1, page183]. The south side of the cliff is an easy slab and the west side has possibilities for more technical lines, its dominant feature being a roof that resembles a huge shark fin.
Directions: There is an alternative approach to the Boquet River Crags that is reportedly quicker. Park at Round Pond Trailhead [volume 1, page 426] (1.0 mile from the Chapel Pond Pullout, when driving towards Malfunction Junction). Follow the Dix Mountain trail (blue markers) to Round Pond and continue along its northern shore. Follow the trail over the height of land to a stream crossing at a log bridge. Leave the trail and bushwhack left (roughly south) along the stream for about 0.1 mile to where it meets the North Fork Boquet River. Follow this downstream for another 0.3 mile to reach the north end of Shark Fin Cliff.
Talus About the Crack 5.6 PG 70' ★★
Start: 150' from the south side of the cliff directly below the shark fin shaped roof. This is directly above a large dipping pool.
P1 5.6 PG: Climb up a slightly overhanging wall with left-leaning cracks to a stem-box below a narrow ceiling. Break right through a slot in the ceiling to a small ledge. Continue past a large freestanding flake on the left to the top of the chute. Exit right onto terrace. Belay and rappel from trees. 70'
Gear: To 2".
Mama's Boquet 5.7 PG 40' ★★
Start: 300' upstream from Talus About the Crack at the corner of a smaller cliff immediately after a sandy gully 600389,4885702.
P1 5.7 PG: Go up and left of a triangular ceiling at head height on clean rock. Follow a right-rising crack to a nearly vertical crack ending at a ledge. Follow a left-rising rail to the top (critical blue & black alien in crack left of rail). Walk off to right down gully. 40'
Gear: To 2".
❏There is a fixed anchor at the top of Rumble Strips.
❏Variation to Monkey [route #7, volume 1, page 165].
V1 5.6 G: At the top of the corner, traverse right a couple steps around a small arête, then scramble to the top. This alternate finish reduces the overall grade of the route to 5.6, although is less aesthetic.
❏The following fixed anchors have been updated: P3 anchor on Touch of Class, at the top of Hard Times, and the P1 anchor of Spirit of Adventure. All bolted stations on the Free Wall of Moss Cliff are now 3/8" stainless.
❏There is a new variation to Touch of Class [route #10, volume 1, page 399].
V4 5.10a G: Follow Nestlings to where the thin cracks fade. Instead of traversing right, grab the arête on the left and follow it to where it rejoins Touch of Class. This is a superior line to the normal Nestlings variation, with good gear (wires).
❏There's a new fixed anchor on Naked Truth [route #6, volume 2, page 367], now that the tree is dead.
❏A hold has broken on Promiscuous Girl, and the grade almost certainly harder now.
Go to Bread 5.10d G 60' ★★
Start: On the face right of Naked Truth [route #6, volume 2, page 367].
◉ P1 5.10d G: Go up the thin, off-vertical face, moving rightwards to a horizontal crack. There is a fixed anchor just above. 60'
Gear: Optional finger-sized cams.
Grumpy Raccoon 5.9 G 40' ★
A short but enjoyable pitch.
Start: Same as for Ranger Rick [route #1, volume 2, page 366].
P1 5.9 G: Start as for Ranger Rick, but where that route works right, go straight up the face, then up a broken crack system (V1) to a heartbreaker crux at the top. Fixed anchor. 40'
Gear: To 3/4"
V1 Grump Ranger 5.8 G: Avoids the crux. Work right near the top and continue on Ranger Rick. A good escape should you pump out before the top.
Hot n' Stanky 5.10b PG 100' ★★
A contender for the longest pitch at Eagle Falls with great views and varied climbing.
Start: 10' left of Seventeen [route #35, volume 2, page 379].
P1 5.10b PG: Up the face (bolts) to a small roof 20' up. Choose either the corner to the left (easier) or the roof (harder). Follow a series of strong sidepulls to a jug and mediocre gear. Gain a ledge, then press through an easy (but runout) section, then more bolts and gear to a stance below a roof. Traverse left around the roof and move into a high, right-facing corner with a fixed anchor. 100'
Gear: #0.75 to #2 Camalots.
Sammy-Jo Traceyville 5.9 G 50' ★★
The bottom is chossy, but the top is quality.
Start: 20' right of Class Five [Route 38, volume 2, page 381] below a fist-sized roof crack.
P1 5.9 G: Climb over loose blocks to a stance under the roof. Work out to the arête, then over the lip of the roof and into a wide crack in a right-facing corner. A final crux layback leads to the top of the cliff and a tree anchor. 50'
Gear: To 4" (no small gear needed).
Oral in the Dark 5.10d G (5.10a R) 50' ★★
An exposed and unlikely line up a clean imposing face, possibly easier for taller climbers.
Start: 15' right of Sammy-Jo Traceyville at a crack
P1 5.10d G (5.10a R): Up crack to a large grassy ledge. Work up from the ledge on positive holds following an intermittent crack. Make a steep runout to reach a horizontal crack. Continue up to a stance with tricky pro, then go up and right to a fixed anchor. 50'
Gear: Standard rack with an emphasis on small stoppers.
Trap 'Em 5.10a G 50' ★★
Start: On the arête 10' right of Oral in the Dark and 25' left of Stacked [route #39, volume 2, page 382].
● P1 5.10a G: (V1) Up the arête to a ledge. Continue up horizontal edges and jugs to a ledge with a fixed anchor. 50'
V1 5.8+ G: Begin in the corner to the right and join the main route after the initial crux.
Vestibular Apparatus 5.10d G 80' ★★
Start: Below the black arête that defines the left end of the steep wall, 22' left of Out with the Boyz [route #1, volume 1, page 415].
P1 5.10d G: Climb a handcrack in black rock just left of the arête to its top. Move right to gain a thin crack on the arête (1st crux). Up the arête to a ledge (this is the same ledge as P1 of Out with the Boys Again). On the steep wall above the ledge, make several face moves (2nd crux) to gain a right-slanting crack in a shallow right-facing corner. Follow this to its top (fingers), then reach up and left to another right-slanting crack (3rd crux). Follow this to its top at a fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: To 3".
The Eye of Sauron 5.13a G 50' ★★★★
Pumpy, crimpy start, and a hard slab finish. Good rock.
Start: 30' right of Out for the Boyz at a rust-colored, eye-shaped hole 1' above the ground. This is 20' left of Crime, Fools, and Treasure.
● P1 5.13a G: Stick clip, then make a boulder move (crux, V7) to good holds. Go past a band of angular, light-colored rock to a right-leaning seam in a steep slab. Up the seam (second crux) to a ceiling and fixed anchor just above. 50'
Hardheaded Woman 5.11a G 90' ★★★★
High-quality face climbing, then a stellar crack. Tape up.
Start: 30' right of Crime, Fools, and Treasure [route #2, volume 1, page 415] on a ledge below an overhanging, orange wall. Begin at a black, upward-pointed flake 5' up.
P1 5.11a G: Go up the overhanging wall on incut edges (2 bolts) to a crack. Up this (crux, think face climbing) to where it widens to hands. Follow the incredible handcrack through two roofs to where the crack ends at a slab. Step right (bolt) to a water groove and follow this to its top. Fixed anchor on the left. 90'
Gear: Single rack to #3 Camalot; 2 ea #1 and #2 Camalots.
Closed project. Begins the same as Polar Soldier. From the opening jug, reach up and left to a horizontal and hand traverse left. Step up into a crack system and follow it straight up to the top. The high crack is offwidth.
Polar Soldier (aka The Tropical Trooper) 5.11c G 90' ★★★★
Climbs the left side of the Polar Soldier ice route. The gear is tricky to place, but excellent.
Start: Locate the mini-pond in the open area in front of the wide black face—the location of the Polar Soldier ice route. Scramble up onto a ledge (from either side) above the pond and begin just left of a shallow right-facing corner that begins 10' up.
P1 5.11c G: Step up to a jug, then angle up and right into a shallow right-facing corner. Up this (first crux, #3 Camalot critical) to a roof, then pull over into the right-facing corner above. Up the corner to a slab, then angle up and right to a left-facing corner. Up the crack in the corner to its top where the corner merges into the face. Crimp up the bulging face (second crux) to a horizontal, then mantel onto a ledge with a fixed anchor. 90'
Gear: Cams up to #3 Camalot.
Fifty Shades of Awesome 5.10c G 40' ★★★
One of the better routes here. Big moves between good holds with excellent rock.
Start: 20' right of Eyes on the Prize [Route 4, volume 2, page 355], and 8' right of a maple tree growing up against the face, below a dike of black knobby rock 7' up.
◉ P1 5.10c G: Up the face (crux) to some good edges, then move right to left-facing flakes. Up these (#2 Camalot), then up some right-rising horizontal edges to a fixed anchor. 40'
Gear: #2 Camalot.
Slimy Ham 5.11 G 130' ★★★★
Start: 40' right of Redneck on a Rope [route #5, volume 2, page 252] and 30' left of a pillar that forms a left-facing corner with a handcrack, at a left-rising undercling 5' up.
● P1 5.11 G: Climb technical face—an elegant drip line of small patina plates—to a final crux and fixed anchor above a ledge. 60'
◉ P2 5.10a PG: Step left and climb face on good positive edges over an overlap, then straight up. When the patina plates end, step right, up, then left to reach a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: 1 ea #0.5 Camalot.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope.
Get Off My Lawn (project)
This open project is parallel to, and harder, than Slimy Ham. Hard slab to a line of patina plates. Bolts and gear; ends at a ledge with a fixed anchor shared with Slimy Ham. 60'
Open project. This is the rightmost of three routes between Redneck on a Rope and Vertebrae [Routes #5 and #6, volume 2, page 252], and is characterized by many hard, thin boulder problems. Go up a handcrack in the left side of a pillar to its top. Make a hard slab move, then thin vertical climbing to a hard finish. 110'
❏V1 of Metacomet [volume 1, page 149] should be ★★★★.
❏V1 of Route Number 1 [volume 1, page 184] should be ★.
❏P1 of Elusive Dream [volume 1, page 207] should be ★★.
❏V2 (All the King's Men) of Kingdom Come [volume 1, page 209] should be ★★★★.
❏The protection and anchors on Kingdom Come and Four Guns Blazing [volume 1, page 209] have been updated to modern standards. The anchor on Chronic Fixation has also been replaced.
❏A sizeable hold on P4 of Kingdom Come [route #20, volume 1, page 209] broke (6/18/2016), leaving a larger hold. The grade is unchanged, but there may be some loose remnants of the original hold that still need to be cleaned.
❏There is a new fixed anchor at the top of P4 of Kingdom Come [route #20, volume 1, page 209].
❏There is a new variation to P4 of Kingdom Come [route #20, volume 1, page 209]:
V3 5.10 G: Avoids the harder finish to Kingdom Come. Begin on right end of the King's Couch (at the top of P3 of Kingdom Come). Traverse up and right 20' to a deep horizontal, then go straight up (crux) to a large flake on the right. Stand on this to reach a fixed anchor. Exposed! Gear: A few cams to 2". Rappel (single rope) back to the King's Couch.
❏P1 of Führer [volume 1, page 211] should be ★★★.
❏V1 of Führer [volume 1, page 211] should be ★★★★.
❏V2 of Führer [volume 1, page 211] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (Palm Sunday (aka New Rubber)) of Thanksgiving [volume 1, page 218] should be ★★★★.
❏V1 of Regular Route [volume 1, page 219] should be ★.
❏V2 of Regular Route [volume 1, page 219] should be ★★★.
❏V3 of Regular Route [volume 1, page 219] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (Left-Hand Direct) of Left-Hand Route [volume 1, page 227] should be ★.
❏P1 of Right-Hand Route [volume 1, page 228] should be ★★★.
❏P3 of For Once a Great Notion [volume 1, page 228] should be ★★★.
❏V1 of Tilman's Arête [volume 1, page 234] should be ★★★★.
❏V2 of Tilman's Arête [volume 1, page 234] should be ★★.
❏The route Otherwise Normal People [route #32, volume 1, page 234] has a new anchor and protection bolt.
❏V2 (Butterflies Are Free) of Mastercharge [volume 1, page 244] should be ★★★
❏P1 of Prelude [volume 1, page 248] should be ★★★.
❏P2 of Buffalo Soldier [volume 1, page 249] should be ★★.
❏The route Feet of Fire [route #19, volume 1, page 250] has been updated and slightly rerouted. The rating is now 5.11b/c G, and is now ★★★.
On the (climber's) left walk off from the top of the Upper Washbowl you walk in front of this wall, which sits directly above BBC [route #1, volume 1, page 244]. It's a great diversion after topping out on the main cliff.
Breaking Trad 5.11b G 40' ★★★
Excellent face climbing.
Start: 45' from the right end of the wall, below the second black streak from the right.
● P1 5.11b G: Go straight up the wall making long reaches between good holds. Fixed anchor in the back of an alcove. 40'
This closed project begins 10' right of Breaking Trad. It's another steep face climb with a notoriously wet (and critical) hold.
❏V2 (Deviant Finish) of The Key [volume 1, page 269] should be ★.
❏There is a new fixed anchor at the top of P1 of Xenolith. This replaces the rappel anchor on the dying trees. A 60m rope just makes it to the ground from here.
❏P1 of PSOC [volume 1, page 326] should be ★.
❏P1 of Xenolith [volume 1, page 327] should be ★.
❏P2 of Xenolith [volume 1, page 327] should be ★★.
❏V1 (Tommy) of Look, Roll, and Fire [volume 1, page 328] should be ★★.
❏P2 of Hooligans [volume 1, page 328] should be ★★.
❏P3 of Hooligans [volume 1, page 328] should be ★★★.
❏P1 of Old Route [volume 1, page 329] should be ★★★.
❏P1 of Mr. Clean [volume 1, page 345] should be ★★★★.
❏P1 of Rule of the Bone [volume 1, page 346] should be ★★★★.
❏V1 of Rule of the Bone [volume 1, page 346] should be ★★★★.
❏Joshua Climb [route #6, volume 1, page 342] is hard for the grade. The start is 5.7.
❏The ground at the start of Finger It Out [route #12, volume 1, page 342] is 4' lower now, making the start more like 5.11b. Start in the crack to the left to keep the original grade.
❏V1 (Direct Finish) of Lichen Delight [volume 1, page 376] should be ★★★.
❏V2 (Nestlings) of Touch of Class [volume 1, page 399] should be ★★★★.
❏P1 of Woolsey Route [volume 1, page 485] should be ★.
❏P1 of Pharaoh's Phallus [volume 2, page 128] should be ★★★.
❏P2 of Rodeo [volume 2, page 247] should be ★★★.
❏V1 (J.J.'s) of Talking Heads [volume 2, page 324] should be ★.
❏P1 of Lunatic Hares [volume 2, page 395] should be ★★.
❏V1 of Lunatic Hares [volume 2, page 395] should be ★★★.
❏V2 of Lunatic Hares [volume 2, page 395] should be ★★.
Chew It Like You Mean It 5.9 TR 70' ★★★
Begin 12' left of Paddle Matt, Paddle at a small depression in the cliff. Trend left up to two large, dirty flakes 12' up. Go over these to lower angled clean face climbing (crux) to a two foot ledge, then straight up another 12' of steep rock to lower angle slabs and a large spruce. Excellent climb.
Paddle Matt, Paddle 5.7 G 60' ★
Start: 8' left of Six Pack where a small triangular block leans against the cliff, below an 8'-tall bulge.
P1 5.7 G: Mantel on to bulge, continue up and trend slightly left past small horizontals (gear). Use hidden buckets to pull a bulge (crux). Finish on low-angle slabs to large spruce tree. 60'
Six Pack 5.6+ PG 60' ★★
Fun climb for the grade, although the chossy corner could use some cleaning.
Start: 30' left of the giant flake described in the start of Lost Horizon [route #1, volume 2, page 394] at a small overhang near the ground.
P1 5.6+ PG: Start with a boulder move to reach a 10" ledge 7' up. Continue straight up the face past a good 2" and 3" horizontal (gear) into a slightly chossy left-facing corner. Up this over a small overhang and finish up the low-angle slabs to large spruce tree shared with Paddle Matt, Paddle. 60'
Pure and Easy 5.5 PG (5.2 R) 700'
A sister route to Gothic Arch that is similar in quality and position.
Start: Below crescent arch, between Gothic Arch [route #9, volume 1, page 476] and Goodwin Route [route #10, volume 1, page 476].
P1 5.5 PG: Go partway up a shallow left-facing corner, then step right and climb through the arch. Traverse left to big holds which lead to the left end of a grassy ledge. Move back right on this to a comfortable belay above a large, dirty arch. 160'
P2 5.5 PG: Head easily straight up on great holds, then angle right to a small tree and grass hummock in the giant arch. Belay at a tree in featured rock (ancient webbing on tree!) 175'
P3 5.4 PG (5.2 R): Follow large holds over arch and onto low-angle slab. Climb mellow pock-marked grooves staying just left of a tree/shrub island. Belay on the lower left end of a huge tree island. 200'
P4 5.3 PG: Friction up easy slab on left, passing a left-facing arch, up nice clean rock to a traverse right to belay at the top of a tree island. 165'
Descent: Push right through scrub and scramble 400' up the left margin to outcrops and the trail. It is also possible to join the final two pitches shared by Gothic Arch and Goodwin Route.
Rocket Votes for Bernie 5.7+ G 70' ★★
Start: 15' left of the heavily vegetated left-leaning open book, mentioned as being 4' left of the start of Greenhouse Defect [route #1, volume 1, page 173].
P1 5.7+ G: Climb the right-rising finger crack into a dirty open book. Climb up into a small left-facing corner to gain a right-rising crack. Follow the crack to a small overhang, then head left onto the face. Climb the face to the top. 70'
Gear: Micro-cams recommended.
❏A variation was added to Ali-Kat [route #10, volume 2, page 121] that provides an alternate start, reducing the overall grade to 5.8. Like the normal route, it's in need of a proper cleaning, and if cleaned, would have many stars.
V1 5.8 PG: Start to the right of the normal route and move up and left to gain the crack.
Mike's Pick 5.7 PG 210'
Start: 100' left of Reckless Endangerment [route #6, volume 2, page 120] at the top of a dirt slope. Locate a 4' square roof 8' up with a nipple of rock protruding at the bottom that is just left of a 10'-tall, 3'-wide chimney.
P1 5.7 G: Start on slightly bulging face on the right of roof. Ascend face with cracks to the left of a steep prow of rock 100' up. Belay on the left behind an 8'-tall free-standing pinnacle. 130'
P1 5.7 PG: Climb the face behind the pinnacle and the traverse right into an open book. Follow this to the top. 80'
Biviot Climbing Club 5.8 PG 190' ★★
Ascends the grove on the prow of cliff directly beneath the gigantic triangle roof south of Excellent Adventure [route #7, volume 2, page 120]
Start: 50' right of Excellent adventure and 15' feet left of the toe of the cliff with a 10"-diameter birch tree growing at the base of a 15'-tall, right-leaning vegetated ramp.
P1 5.7 G: Ascend the mossy ramp up and right and traverse right into a large grove. Go up the grove until directly below the large roof. Traverse right around corner to a ledge with a 10"-diameter pine tree and belay. 130'
P2 5.8 PG: Exit up and right past a thin undercling crack (yellow Alien; only gear for 40') to a steep face with an orange scar (exposed) 30' from the belay. Move through scar (crux) on square cut holds to the left and onto a flat-topped nose of rock. Climb face above scar to an exit in a 20'-tall grassy chimney and belay at tree. 60'
Descent: Walk north 100' feet to the Excellent Adventure rappel.
Biviot's Deviant Little Brother 5.7 G 90' ★★
Start: 20' right of Biviot Climbing Club on ramp below two right-leaning cracks that lead to a ceiling.
P1 5.7 G: Ascend right-hand crack through broken section to a birch tree growing below the left side of ceiling. Escape left around ceiling and head right to the large pine tree ledge shared with Biviot Climbing Club. Rap from tree or finish on P2 of Biviot Climbing Club. 90'
Ode to Solitude 5.8 A1 180' ★★★
If cleaned, would probably go at 5.10. P2 is junk; best to rappel after P1.
Start: 200' right of Excellent Adventure at a buttress with a crack on the right side.
P1 5.8 A1: Follow broken cracks for 30' to bulge where the crack becomes offwidth (gear to 5"), Move up through more wide crack to top of the buttress and belay in trees. 80'
P2: Climb straight up to large ceiling and escape right on ledge to a tree-filled gully. 100'
Doesn't Remind Me 5.10c G 160' ★★★★
Two good pitches on the arête left of the Yard Sale [route #7, volume 1, page 417] chimney. This is the completion of project #6, volume 1, page 417.
Start: Begin on Bear Necessities [route #5, volume 1, page 417].
P1 5.10c G: Climb Bear Necessities for 20' to a right-angling crack. Follow the crack right towards the arête. Make a tricky mantle (crux, subtle side pull) a few feet before the arête, then follow thin face to a fixed anchor. 90'
P2 5.10b G: Wander up the face on knobs and edges to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: Green through red Aliens plus 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots.
Descent: Two rappels with a single 60m rope.
Location: East side of NY 73 in Keene Valley
Approach: 27 min, moderate.
Summary: Small isolated cliff very close to Keene Valley with potential for more routes.
This isolated, 250'-wide cliff is located on a hillside south of the Mossy Cascade hiking trail to Hopkins Mountain. It cannot be seen from the road or trail, but most of the approach is via the trail. The cliff has potential for more routes.
The cliff has a higher left hand section, and a lower but steeper right hand section. You can reach the top by hiking around either end.
Directions: Park at the Mossy Cascade trailhead, a pullout on the east side of NY 73, 1.9 miles south of the Noonmark Diner in Keene Valley 597727,4890688.
From the trailhead (0 min), follow the marked Mossy Cascade Trail along the east branch of the Ausable River. The trail crosses a private road near some residences, then follows the Mossy Cascade Brook. On the left side of the brook is some rock on private land. The trail climbs past Mossy Cascade Falls (not visible from the trail). At 22 min, the trail begins a switch back to the right at a set of shallow wooden steps. 100' further, on the right end of this switchback, locate a 4'-tall boulder 30' right of the trail. Turn right (south) of the trail to the boulder, then contour the hillside. At 24 min you will cross a private driveway, just uphill of a tan-colored 4'-tall boulder alongside the driveway. Continue contouring the hillside to reach the cliff at 27 min 598435,4890884.
This section has a rolling, wooded ledge along the base. The routes start from this ledge, which is easy to access from either end. Right of Full Value are several shorter, wide cracks which start at the base ledge.
Full Value 5.8+ G 80' ★
Start: 30' right of the left end of the cliff, at a handcrack that begins on top of blocks at the left end of the base ledge.
P1 5.8+ G: Climb the crack. 80'
From the Left Section, walk right past the end of the base ledge. The right hand section begins where the base ledge tapers to the ground.
Rites of Spring 5.8+ G 70' ★★★
Start: 20' right of the end of the base ledge and 8' right of a spruce tree, at a vertical crack that begins 8' up.
P1 5.8+ G: Make a boulder move (5.7 PG) to gain the crack. At mid-height, shift right 4' to another crack (crux) and follow it to the top. 70'
Location: East side of NY 73 in Keene Valley
Approach: 45 min, moderate
Summary: A small crag on a long cliff line east of NY 73 in Keene Valley; good potential for more routes.
There is a long, intermittent cliff that runs across the base of Hopkins Mountain, from near the Ranney Trail (on the north) to near the Mossy Cascade Trail (on the south). This line of cliffs is visible from NY 73 in the winter. This particular crag is the southern section of this cliff, on a hill north of the Mossy Cascade Trail that goes up Hopkins Mountain.
This end of the line cannot be seen from the road or trail, but most of the approach is via the trail.
The crag is wide and circles the hilltop from the south side around to the west side. To reach the top either (a) scramble up 3rd class rock on the right end, right of the route Baby Snake, or (b) scramble up steep woods in a break in the cliff band 100' left of Ramshackle Corner.
Directions: Park at the Mossy Cascade trailhead, a pullout on the east side of NY 73, 1.9 miles south of the Noonmark Diner in Keene Valley 597727,4890688. From the trailhead (0 min), follow the marked Mossy Cascade Trail along the east branch of the Ausable River. The trail crosses a private road near some residences, then follows the Mossy Cascade Brook. On the left side of the brook is some rock on private land. The trail climbs past Mossy Cascade Falls (not visible from the trail), and then crosses the brook at 25 min. At 35 min, on a slight downhill, reach an obvious yellow-blazed property boundary. This is an old property line; as of the early 2000s both sides of this line are State Land.
Turn left (north) off the trail and follow the yellow-blazed property line through generally level open woods. This is the route of the long-abandoned "Keene Valley" hiking trail, so there is occasional evidence of a maintained footpath. At 42 min, reach an area with large blocks in the woods. From the last yellow-blazed tree, follow cairns right, and then left up through a short talus field to the base of the cliff at 45 min 598500,4891999.
The trail reaches the cliff at a 15'-tall tower of red rock (aka the "Red Tower"), which is a good landmark for locating routes.
Ramshackle Corner 5.6 PG 70' ★★
Start: 75' left of the Red Tower, at a large right-facing corner left of a black slab.
P1 5.6 PG: Go up the slab a few steps and then left into the corner. Climb straight up past some small scrappy trees and an unprotected section to the top. 70'
Gray Tower 5.6+ G 75' ★★
Start: 5' right of the Red Tower, at a toe of gray rock, where a 3"-diameter birch tree appears to be growing directly out of the rock.
P1 5.6+ G: Climb easily up and left, then up through an overhanging channel on huge holds to an anchor on a small tree. A #5 cam is helpful just below the steep channel. 75'
Cedar Circle 5.10- G 80' ★★
Start: 15' right of the Red Tower, at a vertical crack that rises from a small circle of large cedars at the base of the cliff.
P1 5.10- G: Make a hard boulder problem to gain the crack, then follow it to the top. The wide section at the top is safer if you bring a #5 cam. 80'
Cedar Right 5.9 G 80' ★★
Start: 5' right of Cedar Circle at a right-rising crack that leads through a bulge.
P1 5.9 G: Climb the crack through the bulge (using a couple holds on Cedar Circle). On easier ground, move right around some blocks and then up into the obvious and very steep stem box. Up this (crux) to the top; fixed anchor on a tree. 80'
Orange Zombie 5.7 R 80'
Interesting, loose and scary!
Start: 75' right of the Red Tower, at a 6'-high "zombie-sized" orange block standing in a corner.
P1 5.7 R: Climb the block, and then step up left onto a platform. Continue straight up through a slot, past a small tree and up to a sloping ledge with a large block on the right. Step right up onto the block, then scramble right to a tree in a gully. It's best to belay the second back on top of the block. 80'
Baby Snake 5.6 G 90' ★
Start: 10' right of Orange Zombie at a ramp of low-angled rock.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the ramp with vertical rock to your left past a short friction crux that is often wet. Finish in a short vertical corner. 90'
Approach: 28 min, moderate.
Summary: A long line of mostly-unexplored cliff above NY 73 in Keene Valley.
There is a long, intermittent line of cliffs that runs across the base of Hopkins Mountain from near the Ranney Trail on the north end to near the Mossy Cascade Trail on the south end. This line of cliffs, visible from NY 73 in the winter, was private land, but New York State acquired it around 2005, and now the whole line is public land.
The area has potential for more routes. This particular set of cliffs is on the side nearest the Ranney Trail. Because the beginning portion of the Ranney Trail is an easement on private land, the approach walks uphill until the trail reaches state land, then travels back downhill to reach the cliffs.
Watch for poison ivy along the base of the cliffs, mostly near the open talus.
Directions: Park at the Rooster Comb Trailhead 596982,4893207, on the east side of NY 73, 0.4 mile south of Keene Valley (from the intersection of NY 73 and Adirondack Street). From the trailhead (0 hr 0 min), walk south (towards Chapel Pond) on NY 73. At 1.5 min, turn left onto Ranney Way and follow it on the level valley floor for a while, and then uphill to where it becomes the marked Ranney Trail, paralleling Hopkins Brook. Follow the trail; at 21 min, enter state land marked by a sign. Leave the trail on the right and cross Hopkins Brook. Follow the obvious yellow-blazed state land boundary downhill, almost parallel to the brook. At a cairn, veer left from the blazed line and follow a path to reach an old forest road at 24 min. Follow the old forest road downhill, and at 25 min reach a cairn on the left that marks the start of the short path to the cliff. (If you reach a yellow-blazed survey line and a "state land" sign facing downhill, you have gone about 80' too far on the old road.) Follow cairns across the hillside to reach the left end of the cliff at 28 min.
The approach reaches the left end of the cliff line 597741,4892663. Walk to the right to the first rock, which is low and wet. Continue right along the base of the rock; after 3 min, you will reach larger walls. The first wall features angular rock with some route potential. The next wall is higher and features brown rock, with a long overhang and some shattered talus at the bottom; this cliff also has potential for difficult routes. Near the right end of this cliff, a broken right-facing corner and crack rises from a tiny flat area with grass; this is the start of Raven Chase.
Raven Chase 5.9 G (5.6 R) 90' ★★
Start: At the broken, right-facing corner and crack above a tiny flat area with grass.
P1 5.9 G (5.6 R): Go up the crack through some broken rock to a small birch tree. Follow a ramp up and left, then step down to an alcove. Friction up left (5.6 R) to a crux finish in a boxed-in corner. 90'
Red Dihedral 5.9 TR 70'
Right of Raven Chase is a section of black rock. (The Black Bowl ice route is located here.) This route is located 50' right of Black Bowl at broken, red rock hidden in thick evergreens. It is most easily located by first finding the Gray Dihedral, which is 10' right and more obvious. Climb straight up broken rock and cracks into a red dihedral. When the dihedral becomes overhanging, escape left to finish on the arête.
Gray Dihedral 5.9 TR 75' ★
Begin 60' right of the section of black rock (and the ice route Black Bowl) at a very obvious left-facing, gray dihedral. Climb straight up into the gray dihedral, which, like its red neighbor features overhanging escape at the top.
Chimney Arête 5.6 G (5.4 R) 75' ★
Start: 30' right of Gray Dihedral at a left-leaning chimney high on the cliff.
P1 5.6 G (5.4 R): Climb the chimney past two low chock stones (crux) onto a large ledge. Continue up the blunt, low-angled arête that forms the left margin of the chimney (5.4 R). 75'
Narsil 5.8 PG 50' ★★
Start: From Chimney Arête, walk right past dramatic blocky walls with roofs for 7 min to this obvious arête.
P1 5.8 G: Climb arête using the crack 3' right. The thin crux near the top. 50'
❏The fixed hardware on Rum Doodle [route #7, volume 1, page 222] has been replaced. There is also a fixed anchor on the bulge below the tree.
❏Ripples has a new, lower fixed anchor, cutting off the final grungy 30'.
New Plumbing 5.6+ G 40'
Start: 10' left of Plumber's Crack [route #5, volume 1, page 222].
Climb face past several great horizontal cracks to a bolt. Make a big reach (crux) to better holds, then move right to join Plumber's Crack to the top. Fixed anchor on tree shared with Plumber's Crack. 40'
Location: Off Route 28N north of North Creek
Aspect: South and southwest
Approach: 1 hr 15 min, easy
Summary: Two alpine cliffs on a ridge and below a mountain top; mostly slab climbing.
Moxham Mountain forms the long, rocky ridgeline visible on the north horizon from the town of North Creek. While much of it is posted, private property, a 2.5 mile public trail leading to the state-owned summit dome was constructed in 2012, providing access to some scenic climbing.
These cliffs are mostly low-angle slabs, well below treeline but with an alpine feel. The area is raw with runouts, dirt, lichen, and loose rock, although this will change with more use. The main attraction here is the alpine environment and panoramic views of meadows and ponds immediately below, and the prominent summits of Gore, Crane, Puffer, and Snowy.
Directions: From the intersection of NY 28 and NY 28N in North Creek, drive north on NY 28N (towards Minerva). At 4.2 miles you can see the impressive slabs of Moxham Dome on the left (this cliff was documented in Mellor's 1986 guidebook, but is sadly on private property). At 7.1 miles turn left onto 14th Road (CR 37). At 8.4 miles bear right at a fork. At 9.0 miles the pavement ends. At 9.2 miles park on the left at the trailhead for Moxham Mountain.
From the trailhead (0 hr 0 min) Follow the yellow-marked trail over a hill, down the other side, across a stream (the outlet of a beaver swamp), then uphill towards the Moxham ridgeline. At 1 hr and roughly 0.5 mile before the summit you will arrive at an open area with a view of the summit. Below is the Lower Ridge area. Continue another 0.5 mile to the Summit Dome area at 1 hr 15 min.
Access: There are many cliffs on private land in this area, Moxham Dome being the most obvious, visible from route NY 28N when driving north out of North Creek. (On the USGS map, this is labeled as Moxham Point.) Just south of Moxham Dome are several other cliffs with extensive climbing—the New New, Cartehena Cliff, Cartoon Cliff, and Sherwood Forest—all on private land. The cliffs described here are on state land near the summit of Moxham Mountain further to the west.
This is the south-facing cliff below the open area with a good view of the summit dome, 0.5 mile before the end of the trail 580439,4845007. Finding the routes from above is difficult; here are some landmarks: a clump of boulders near the middle of the clear area at the top of the cliff; a right-facing corner system 40' (climber's) left of the (climber's) right end of the cliff; an evergreen clump far down the cliff, visible from above and from the base; a boulder pile at the base of the cliff that provides access to a ledge system 45' up.
To reach the bottom of the cliff, follow the trail to where it turns away from the view. Here you will find a break in the cliff that provides a slippery 3rd class descent to the base.
Mud in Yer Eye 5.8 TR 125' ★
From the top, locate the boulder clump. From a position 30' (climber's) right of the boulder clump, rappel from a gear anchor arranged in a horizontal crack a short way down the slope. At the base of the cliff, look for a large, dirty, left-facing corner that leads up left to the evergreen island. Climb the corner through an overhang to a good stance. Make a difficult move through an overlap, go up to another tricky overlap, then climb easier slab to the top.
Yam Jam 5.7 G 125' ★★★
Start: Rappel 50' (climber's) right of the boulder clump. At the base, look for a cleaned vertical crack 15' right of the evergreen island.
P1 5.7 G: Climb crack through two bulges to its end. Move up to another crack line and take it to the top. 125'
Mox Me 5.5 G 125'
This route tops out at the right-facing corner system at the top (climber's) right side of the cliff.
Start: Rappel and locate a right-facing open book that begins 6' up a slab and ends 7' higher at an overhang. Begin 6' to the right on the slab.
P1 5.5 G: Traverse left to the open book and climb up to the overhang. Pass the overhang using a vertical crack that leads to a ledge. Wrestle the shrubbery to get on the ledge, then scramble up to the highest stance, at the base of a right-facing corner. 50'
P2 5.5 G: Up the corner a few feet, then angle right following a right-leaning crack. At a small overhang, traverse right 6' to a left-rising flake. Climb this to a handcrack and follow this to its end. Finish on runout, easy slab. 75'
Dog Dish Dilemma 5.8 TR 240'
This route is located in the scruff right of the main Lower Ridge area. It was climbed on toprope by necessity to recover a pet's water bowl that rolled over the edge of the cliff. From the Lower Ridge, follow the hiking trail towards the summit and locate a short spur trail that leads to a nice view, with an almost-manicured juneberry clump sitting alone near the edge. Only the upper 100' is worthwhile climbing. Rappel 70m, then climb the mossy slab onto a choss and sapling-infested dirty ledge. Break through briars onto cleaner, steeper slab. Friction up to a headwall, then move right and gain an intermediate ledge. Reach way left and hand-traverse left 10', stabbing blindly for invisible holds above. Make a tricky stand onto the upper slab and weave up a couple easier overlaps to the top.
This steep-sided, southwest-facing dome sits directly below the summit of Moxham Mountain 580899,4844797, at the end of the hiking trail. The best climbing discovered so far lies about 50' (climber's) left of the end of the trail. Locate a spruce tree positioned just above an obvious notch in the slab; this provides a good anchor for top-belaying Serenity Prayer, or for setting a rappel anchor.
The base of the cliff is really awful, and there is a cliff below you. Rappel access (or top-belaying) is the only reasonable option here.
Serenity Prayer 5.8 G (5.4 R) 215' ★★★★
Originally climbed as a single pitch, but could easily be broken up into 2 or more pitches.
Start: Rappel from the spruce tree mentioned above with a 70m rope to a horizontal crack just below the beginning of the steep section. Build an anchor here, then rappel again (with a 70m rope) to the base of the route. Begin at the low end of a low-angle slab that has a right-facing flake 40' up.
P1 5.8 G (5.4 R): Climb up easily to the right-facing flake 40' up and follow it to the base of the steep section. Move up a right-rising flake to reach an undercling (pink Tricam), then move up, first left, then right to a stance below a bolt. Climb past bolt to an overhang and go through this at the left of two right-rising, diagonal, short cracks. Climb a steep corrugated face to the horizontal below a low-angle slab. Climb up slab to a 5'-high overlap with a vertical crack. Climb up using crack onto easy broken notch leading to the spruce tree. 215'
Gear: Standard rack plus a critical green C3 (or equivalent).
Location: North of Westport in the Split Rock Wild Forest
Approach: 25 min, easy
Summary: Large, inland cliff near Lake Champlain with some potential for new routes.
The Split Rock Wild Forest is known for the Palisades, the large cliff facing Lake Champlain. The Split Rock Cliff is inland with a much shorter approach, and offers an alternate destination when climbing in this area. This inland cliff is about 350' wide with generally clean, steep rock, in a very quiet, private valley with excellent views of Lake Champlain and some the High Peaks from the top.
So far the routes are concentrated on the left half of the cliff. The right half of the cliff is higher and has potential for many additional routes, but has considerable brittle rock.
There is a dirty, wooded corner right of No Monster that provides 3rd class access to the top of the cliff.
Be aware that this area is known for melanistic (black-colored) timber rattlesnakes. There's a large population of these little fellas from Westport to Willsboro.
Directions: Park as for Palisades [volume 1, page 141]. Follow the hiking directions past the 6 min fork. At 12 min, just past a subtle ridge in the woods on the left side of the trail, a cairn marks a faint old forest road that curves left 629862,4898732. (From the last intersection, this turnoff is 200' past the third culvert.) Follow the forest road, which becomes obscure, but some cairns mark a gentle uphill route, first through open pine woods, and then through unusual grasslands with scattered trees and rocks. Reach the cliff at 25 min at a striking, razor-thin, left-leaning crack 630224,4898988 of The Borehole Inspector, which is used as a landmark for the routes. This route with the razor-thin crack is at the lowest point of the cliff.
Watch for poison ivy in the talus below the cliff.
Third Edition 5.7 G 90' ★
Start: From the razor-thin crack of The Borehole Inspector at the lowest point of the cliff, walk 30' up and left on a wide terrace. Begin below the left end of a ledge 10' up with two cedars on it.
P1 5.7 G: Scramble up onto the ledge, then traverse past the cedars to the right end of the ledge. Climb a crack up and right to its end, and then climb straight up to the top. 90'
The Borehole Inspector 5.9 R 90'
Start: At the obvious razor-thin crack at the lowest point on the cliff.
P1 5.9 R: Climb the razor-thin crack to a small ledge on left. One hard move (crux) leads to another ledge (#0 Friend). Move up crack on good holds, then left towards Third Edition. Step left to finish. 90'
No Monster 5.5 G 75'
Start: On an arête formed by a right-facing corner 30' right and uphill of the razor-thin crack of The Borehole Inspector.
P1 5.5 G: Climb easily up the low-angled right side of the arête; when you reach some tree branches and loose looking blocks, step around to the left side and climb a few more feet up, then back right. 75'
Jack's Lament 5.8 TR 75' ★
Begin 20' right of No Monster at a pile of blocks. Follow a thin vertical crack to a brushy ledge. Step left and follow another thin vertical crack to overhanging orange rock. Move left and up through the overhangs to the top. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree 20' to the right.
Out of the Box 5.9- G (5.7 R) 85' ★★
Start: 30' right of Jack's Lament, just right of the bushy cedar, at the base of a white slab.
P1 5.9- G: Climb up and left across the slab onto the main wall. Climb through a small, low overhang and then up and left (5.7 R) to a nice stance (piton). Follow a thin crack straight up into the large box-like overhang. Exit left out of this (crux) and up to the top. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree just to the right. 85'
Gear: Standard rack plus a #3 Camalot for the overhang.
Location: North of Westport in the Split Rock Wild Forest
Approach: 24 min, easy.
Summary: Large, inland cliff near Lake Champlain with some potential for new routes.
This is the second newly discovered cliff in the Split Rock Wild Forest. Like Split Rock Cliff, this cliff has a reasonable approach.
The 400'-wide cliff is divided into two sectors and is generally very steep.
Be aware that ground bees are active in several areas of this cliff.
Directions: Park as for Palisades [volume 1, page 141] 629145,4899096. From the parking lot (0 min), walk south across a small brook, then uphill to a forest road and follow it south. At 8 min, keep right at a fork and cross over an exposed, very large, old culvert pipe. You will come to an area where DEC is flagging to reroute the trail around a tiny corner of private land. 200' further, at 10 min, the road joins the yellow marked "Cross-Over Trail" 629163,4898529. Go south on the Cross-Over Trail as it gently climbs. At 18 min, find a cairn 629059,4898116 on the right side of the trail. (If you miss the cairn and come to a flat open area with a small stream crossing, you have gone about 1 min too far.) At the cairn, turn right and walk west through open woods following a dry stream drainage downhill. At 21 min reach a larger stream and cross it; the cliff runs downhill facing this stream. Turn right and travel downstream to reach the cliff at 24 min 629010,4898368.
The DEC has an online map of the Split Rock Wild Forest.
This is the left-most sector 628987,4898273. It faces south and features a steep wall with the terrain rising to the left. In the middle are two chimney-like alcoves. The right side of this sector faces east and consists of 4th-class rock capped by large roofs.
To reach the top of the cliff, walk left to a deer trail that circles around a large block, then switches back to the right up to the top.
Descent from these routes is best by walking (climber's) left around the end of the cliff. Watch for bees.
Zig Zag 5.5 G 70' ★
Start: 160' up and left of the toe of the cliff, at a thin right-rising crack behind a dead tree and a live, squat spruce. This is 50' up and left from the two chimney-like alcoves.
P1 5.5 G: Go up and right, then diagonal back left on easy, loose rock. Diagonal up and right again to finish. 70'
Silhouette 5.7 G 140' ★
Start: At the lowest point of the terrain, at a cluster of small trees that grows out of the base of the cliff. After starting the route, you will see a large juniper at the top dramatically silhouetted against the sky.
P1 5.5 G: Climb up low-angled rock and then up to the top of a dark dome. Continue up low-angled rock to the base of a short, steep wall; up this (crux), to finish on blocks up to the juniper. 140'
In the center of the cliff 629014,4898317 is a 60'-tall, east-facing, 10° overhanging face laced by crack-like seams, a few horizontals, and peppered with holds. On the right side of this sheer wall is a ships prow-like arête (formed by two overhanging faces) that rises above a small boulder pile that stays dry, a good place to stash your gear out of the rain. Right of the cave is a gully that narrows to a chimney, the home of a porcupine family.
The cliff is a good destination for hot days, as the wall is shaded by tall trees, and there is a seasonal stream 80' in front of the face. The base of the cliff is open and pleasant, but there are some stinging nettles in the area. Also, watch for stinging thingies (e.g., wasps and bees), both in the ground and nesting on the cliff face. It may be wise to bring some projectile aerosol spray for this purpose.
You can reach the top of the wall by walking (climber's) right through boulders, then past a shorter "bouldering" wall, to a left-rising ramp. At the base of this ramp, go up a chute with a giant root, then scramble up the slope. Walk (climber's) left along the top of the cliff until past the wall, then walk down an easy gully (skier's) left to a flat area above the wall. There are several huge oak trees here that make convenient anchors from which you can rappel to the individual route anchors.
for a topo of the wall.
Climb Against Humanity 5.13a G 50' ★★★
Crosses Criminal Minds at the 3rd bolt.
Start: At a boulder merged into the cliff face, 6' left of Criminal Minds, below a horizontal bucket 7' up.
● P1 5.13a G: Stick clip. Latch the bucket, then up sidepulls and compression moves (first crux) to a crack. Up this to a good horizontal break. Move right and go up the face to a final dynamic move leftwards to a hold (crux), then up to a stance on the right side of a mini-tower. Climb to the top of the tower and fixed anchor shared with Criminal Minds. 50'
Criminal Minds 5.11c G 50' ★★★
Aesthetic, devious movement on the traverse. Crosses Climb Against Humanity at the third bolt.
Start: Below a 15'-tall left-facing edge.
● P1 5.11c G: Up the left-facing edge to an overlap. Traverse left using the overlap to a crack, then up to a good horizontal break. Step left and climb up black, featured rock (5.9) to a right-rising ramp that forms the left side of a mini-tower. Fixed anchor on top of the tower shared with Climb Against Humanity. 50'
On the Take 5.12b G 50' ★★★
A nice crack on the first half followed by a hard and sequential upper half.
Start: At a left-leaning crack that snakes up the full height of the wall, 20' left of the overhanging arête that defines the right edge of the face. There's a flat boulder at the base.
P1 5.12b G: Up the crack (5.10) to where it diminishes to a vertical, featured seam. Follow this (crux) to where it leans left again. Move up and right on jugs to a fixed anchor. 50'
Gear: 1 ea #3, #0.4, #1 Camalots; medium nut.
Punishment Fits the Climb 5.12c G 60' ★★★
This excellent line takes a path up the left side of a discontinuous crack–seam that splits the face.
Start: 2' left of Public Enemy.
● P1 5.12c G: Go straight up the face making long moves between horizontals. Move left, to some slash cracks, up these, then go back right to a slanting hold shared with Public Enemy. Move up to the "walnut" pinch, then go left on crimps and sidepulls to make a final deadpoint to a jug. Mantel up to a fixed anchor shared with Public Enemy. 60'
Public Enemy 5.12a G 60' ★★★★
Absolutely superb with a dramatic deadpoint finish to a horn.
Start: Below the discontinuous crack–seam that splits the face and begins just left of the overhanging arête on the right side of the face.
● P1 5.12a G: Climb up to a horizontal crack, then go straight up to a good incut face hold. Move right 6' to a jug–sidepull, then up to a horizontal seam. Follow this up and left 10' to a slanting hold at its end shared with Punishment Fits the Climb. Move up to the "walnut" pinch, then move up and right to a horn. Step up onto the horn, then go left to a fixed anchor shared with Punishment Fits the Climb. 60'
Partners in Climb 5.11d G 55' ★★★★
The route climbs the arête formed by two overhanging faces. Incredible positions.
Start: At the tippy top of the boulders beneath the overhanging arête that defines the right side of the wall.
● P1 5.11d G: Stick clip, then pull onto the face and climb up the overhanging prow for 15'. Continue up the left face with increasing difficulty to a final pair of holds, then slide right around the arête to better holds. Step up onto a slab, then reach left to a fixed anchor. 55'
❏The route Emily Doesn't Have a Clue has been straightened, beginning instead below and left of the dirt ramp of the original start. Grade unchanged.
Location: South High Peaks, accessed from the Northway Exit 29.
Approach: 8 min, easy
Summary: Broken cliff with several very steep walls, including a 35° overhanging wall (similar to The Crown).
Ragged Mountain has a number of outcrops below its southwest subsummit. One of these is particularly good with excellent, steep, continuous faces, corners, and cracks. It's unusual to have so many high-quality routes packed into a tiny area. There's a good range of difficulty, and there's a five-star warmup used to access the fixed anchors of its harder neighbors. The base is comfortable with great views and spotty cell reception. In the summer, the cliff stays shaded until 1:00 PM.
Access to the top of the cliff is difficult with slabs, thick trees, and ledges; hence, every route is equipped with a fixed anchor. A standard single rack will suffice.
Access: The cliff is part of the Boreas Ponds Tract, a parcel owned by former Finch Pruyn timber company and leased to the Ragged Mountain Fish and Game Club (North Hudson, NY). In 2007, The Nature Conservancy purchased the land and transferred it to the state in April 2016. It is now state land.
Update (August 31, 2016): The initial section of Gulf Brook Road has been opened, reducing the approach to 8 min. If the road is closed, the approach takes an additional 14 min.
Directions: From Exit 29, from the underpass, drive west on the Blue Ridge Road (CR 84) for 7.3 miles to Gulf Brook Road on the right. Turn right and drive up the gravel road, passable by 2WD vehicles, although high clearance helps. At 7.4 miles there is a gate 590496,4867659 with a large parking area; walking from here takes an additional 14 min. As of Aug 31, 2016, the road is open. At 7.8 miles there is a gravel pit on the left. At 7.9 miles there is a culvert over a large stream and a sharp right turn. At 8.1 there is another small gravel pit on the left; 100' further locate an unmarked ATV trail on the right. Park here or at any of the spots nearby 590989,4868517. Make sure to keep your vehicle well off the road.
This unmarked ATV trail goes to the summit of Ragged Mountain, and may become an official DEC-maintained trail in the future. Follow the trail for 300' to an open patch of prickly plants. On the far side of this open area the trail turns left; go straight and follow a path uphill to the cliff at 8 min 591238,4868155.
Double D 5.13a G 25' ★★★★
Closed project. This unique route involves two very large dynos, one after the other. Very close to bouldering on a rope.
Start: Uphill and left of Rags to Riches where the trail meets the cliff, at the left end of a sidewalk-ledge where it goes into the left-rising dirt slope.
● P1 5.13a G: Walk right on the ledge, then up to a good pair of holds in the black bulge. Make a 6' dyno to a good hold, regroup, then make a 5' dyno up and left to another good hold. Move up onto the small ledge and a fixed anchor. 25'
Rags to Riches 5.10d G 30' ★★★
Start: At the left end of the cliff is an overhanging black wall. Begin on the right side of the wall at a right-facing flake.
P1 5.10d G: Up the right-facing flake to a horizontal, then up a gnarly right-leaning crack to a slab-mantel (crux) at the top. 30'
Gear: 1 ea #3, #9 Wild Country rocks; 1 ea #0.5, #0.4, #1 Camalots.
Palm-O-Granite 5.8 PG 140' ★★★
Nice slab climbing that accesses the spectacular Balcony. The slabs left and right of P1 have been purposefully left as topropes.
Start: 100' left of Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops at a cleaned strip in the slab below the overhanging headwall of The Balcony.
P1 5.8 PG: Climb up the slab to an overlap (gear) and the up the face to a fixed anchor. Lower from here (40'), or continue up and build a gear anchor where the headwall meets the slab. 80'
P2 5.3 G: (V1) Head left and follow a crack where the slab and headwall meet. Nice climbing and position. 60'
Gear: P1: Red or blue Camalot for the overlap and an optional Green Camalot for the last move. P2: Standard rack.
V1 5.3 PG: Traverse right over blocks to the top of the cliff. 80'. Not recommended.
Invasive Species 5.10b G 80' ★★★★★
An excellent route that face climbs following the underside of an upside-down staircase overhang. Spectacular.
Start: On the main, tallest part of the cliff at a face below a right-leaning, right-facing steep corner. This is just left of a large cedar growing a few feet from the cliff.
P1 5.10b G: Up easy ledges to a stance. Climb a right-facing edge into the right-leaning corner, and follow this to where it straightens to vertical. Finish in a handcrack to a fixed anchor shared with Super Slab. 80'
Gear: Nuts; 1 ea #1, #2 Camalot.
Super Slab 5.12c G 70' ★★★★
Start: 10' left of Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops in the middle of the face capped by a triangular roof 50' up.
◉ P1 5.12c G: Stick clip, then make hard moves (first crux) up a shallow left-facing corner, then up and right to a right-facing ramp. Follow this feature up and left to the decent stance and then head straight up the face (second crux) to the triangular roof above. Break this using a right-leaning crack (optional 0.5 Camalot). Step left to a fixed anchor shared with Invasive Species. 70'
Gear: Optional 0.5 Camalot.
Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops 5.8 G 100' ★★★★★
Simply awesome; one of the best single pitches of its grade in the park. Despite appearances, this route can be climbed without large gear using a hidden crack on the right wall. Seeps after a big rain.
Start: Below a wide crack in a left-facing corner.
P1 5.8 G: Go up the wide crack to the roof 50' up. Break this on the right and continue up the crack to its top. Climb a short, right-leaning crack on the right wall (crux) to a stance on the left with a fixed anchor. 100'
Gear: To 2.5".
Ragged Kittens (linkup) 5.9 PROTECTION 100' ★★★★★
Links together the best moderate climbing at the cliff.
Start: Same as Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops.
P1 5.9 PG: Go up the wide crack to the roof 50' up. Break this on the right to a ledge. Step right and follow the snaking crack finish of Runnin' Ragged to a fixed anchor. 100'
Gear: To #3 Camalot.
Runnin' Ragged 5.11b G 100' ★★★★★
The first route here and arguably one of the best of its grade in the park. Harder for shorter climbers.
Start: 4' right of the left-facing corner capped by a triangular roof 50' up (the start of Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops), at a short crack directly below the blunt arête.
P1 5.11b G: Go up the crack to a ledge. Up the face past two bolts to a good horizontal. Follow a vertical seam into an overhanging scoop to a thank god jam-jug at its top. Follow the snaking crack (5.9) to the top. 100'
Gear: 2 ea #0.5 Camalots; 1 ea #0.4, #3, #0.75 Camalots; 1 ea #2, #5, #6, #9 Wild Country rocks; 1 ea #11 DMM Walnut.
Unlawful Entry 5.11a G 60' ★★★
Looks like a crack climb, but it's easier as a face climb with crack protection.
Start: At the right end of the cliff, at a left-rising crack that begins on a boulder pile just left of a black, right-facing, right-leaning, overhanging corner.
P1 5.11a G: Follow the crack on the overhanging wall to its end, then go straight up into a right-facing corner. Up this, then up a crack to a fixed anchor. 60'
Gear: To 3".
This amazing, sheer wall overhangs 35° and has one project. Its position high above the rest of the cliff increases the exposure. Obviously there's nothing easy here.
Directions: This wall sits above the left end of the cliff. There are several ways to reach the Balcony. The first option is to solo up easy slabs right of Palm-O-Granite (you can see the top of the wall from the cliff-base trail). Second, walk left under Runnin' Ragged to the left end of the black wall. At its left end, cut back right and out onto some slabs. Follow a semi-rotten hand traverse down and right (5.3, essentially reversing P2 of Palm-O-Granite) under the overhanging wall to the slab at the base. A final option is to climb P1 of Palm-O-Granite (5.8).
The Super Proj (project)
Closed project that begins at a fixed anchor on the right side of the face above a pointed slab. Follow a left-leaning crack on a severely overhanging wall as it snakes upward to the upper left side of the face.
This is the large slab clearly visible from Blue Ridge Road.
Approach: From Unlawful Entry walk right to the end of the cliff and then bushwhack uphill switch-backing to avoid smaller cliffs 591367,4868132.
Stairway to Lichen 5.3 PG 250' ★★★
Start: About 1/3 way from the right end of the cliff at a break in the steep footwall. A cairn marks the start.
P1 5.3 PG (5.1 R): Climb up through the footwall then head up and left staying below an obvious left-facing corner (V1). Climb the face to a crack 15' left of the corner to a large ledge. Walk right and belay in a diagonal handcrack. 100'
P2 5.3 PG: Climb the crack which becomes vertical and wide up to a cedar. When the cedar blocks progress step left and follow discontinuous handcracks to the summit. 150'
V1 5.6 PG: Climb the corner. At its top traverse left and make a run-out face move to gain the ledge.
Location: 20 miles north of the village of Saranac Lake, accessed from NY 3 north of Bloomingdale
Approach: 2 hr, difficult.
Summary: Remote, low-angle, moderate, super-grippy slab and some steeper cracks.
Loon Lake Mountain has a fire tower and is one of many summits labeled on the USGS map as "Loon Lake Mountains", roughly 20 miles north of the village of Saranac Lake. In 2013, the trail to the fire tower opened, and the views from the summit are spectacular.
There are presently four separate cliffs located on a smaller summit 0.75 mile east of the fire tower. The West Crag offers the most worthwhile routes. The rock is generally clean and extremely grippy and coarse with excellent protection. A 60m rope and gear to 3" should suffice. Small Tricams also prove useful.
Access: Parts of the yellow-marked trail and the cliffs are on the Kushaqua Tract owned by Lyme Timber. The tract is covered by conservation easement that allows public recreation, much like the Black Brook Tract that includes Silver Lake.
Directions: From Bloomingdale, take NY 3 north approximately 9.5 miles to the intersection on the left with CR 26 (formerly CR 99, also known as Port Kent–Hopkinton Turnpike, also labeled Merrill Road). On the right is the Alder Brook Park Road. Turn left onto CR 26 and drive 7.8 miles to the Loon Lake Mountain Trailhead on the left 569630,4936969.
From here, follow the yellow-marked trail towards the summit of Loon Lake Mountain and the fire tower.
Bushwhacking is required to reach the cliffs. The lower slopes are mostly open hardwood, and the going is easy compared to off-trail travel in the High Peaks. That changes once you enter the conifers around 2800' elevation, and travel along the ridge top is a scratchy, claustrophobic affair. A GPS is especially useful, as it is possible to pass within 50' of the rock without seeing it.
You can see this crag from the fire tower, and observe the routes with binoculars. However, don't approach from there. This area has the most worthwhile routes.
Directions: Follow the yellow-marked trail for 1.9 miles to the first bridge. Follow the stream uphill, bearing left at any forks. Shortly after the stream ends you will reach a mossy cliff barrier. Bypass this either at the left or right ends, or up a convenient gully that splits the barrier 0568504,4934587. The cliff is just a few minutes past the cliffband 0568613,4934545. Allow an hour from the bridge.
Descent: Walk around the south end.
Loonar Ecstasy 5.7 G 50' ★★
Start: Below the left of two obvious cracks.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack to its end, then traverse 8' left (V1) to a crack near the arête. 50'
V1 5.9 PG: Climb the blank face directly above the crack.
Starry Skies 5.6 G 50' ★★
Start: Below the right of two obvious cracks.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack past a bush at mid-height to a striking fingercrack finish. 50'
A vegetated gully runs up the left part of the slab; all routes are right of this gully. The first two routes start just right of the gully. Reach these via a leftward ramp 50' left of the lowest point of the slab.
Directions: From West Crag, walk on a bearing of 250° for 0.25 mile to reach the open ledge at the top of the slab 0568215,4934328. Descend on (skier's) right to reach the base. If you approach from below, leave the yellow trail at the second bridge and follow the stream uphill to the saddle between the two summits of Loon Lake Mountain. From there, a heading of 140° leads through pleasant, open woods to the base of the slab 0568189,4934285.
Central Rib 5.5 PG 80'
Start: At the base of a slab just right of a gully that runs up the left side of the slab. Reach these via a leftward ramp 50' left of the lowest point on the slab.
P1 5.5. PG: Climb easy slab up and slightly left to reach a prominent right-facing corner–rib. Step left out onto the crest of this near its top. Belay from a large spruce tree. 80'
Little Black Corner 5.5 G 160'
Start: Same as Central Rib.
P1 5.5 G: Angle slightly right to a black, right-facing corner, then up a black streak. Pass the 4' x 6' boulder perched at the top of the slab on the right, then climb a series of easy ledges to the top. 160'
Waiting for Lefty 5.6 PG 190' ★
Start: At the lowest point of the slab below the left of two cracks 5' apart, just right of a tree that touches the face.
P1 5.6 PG: Climb the crack to an open face. Angle left when convenient past a line of bushes onto the right edge of the larger open slab. Go straight up, through vegetation about 20' right of the perched boulder. Climb easy ledges to the top (same as Little Black Corner). 190'
The Tao of Alces 5.6 G 200' ★
Start: 4' right of Waiting for Lefty, below the right of two cracks 5' apart.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack for 20', then angle right to the edge of the face. Follow a narrow series of slabby steps up and left to a belay at a 5"-diameter spruce tree. 100'
P2 5.4 G: Move left onto the open slab (cross Waiting for Lefty) and climb a left-angling flake to pass 8' right of the perched boulder. Climb easy ledges to the top. 100'
This dirty, 60'-tall slab faces east and lies directly under the summit of the East Peak of Loon Lake Mountain 0568741,4934601. It is not visible from the fire tower. Descend via rappel or a steep scramble down the (climber's) right side.
Jungle Love 5.5 PG 50'
Start: 50' left of Pulling Back the Blanket a pair of diagonal cracks forms a vague X on the face.
P1 5.5 PG: Climb to the upper left end of the X. Pull on branches to reach the top. 50'
Pulling Back the Blanket 5.4 PG 60'
Start: At the right center of the slab.
P1 5.4 PG: Follow a series of scoops and weaknesses to the top. 60'
This rock is the highest open rock seen from the fire tower. From that vantage point it appears as a flat ledge. The routes are hidden from view in the trees below 0568673,4934549. Descend around the (climber's) left side.
Loon-a-Tick 5.5 G 25'
Start: At a short chimney at the left end of the face.
P1 5.5 G: Climb the inside corner that starts 3' right of the chimney. 25'
Of Moose and Men 5.7 G 45' ★
Start: Below the left end of a large platform 10' up.
P1 5.7 G: Boulder onto the platform (V1). Step right to a left-facing corner. At its top, step right to a stance then follow a crack in low-angle rock to the top. 45'
V1 5.8 G: Climb to the platform via a handcrack directly below the corner.
Location: North side of NY 86 in Wilmington Notch
Approach: 30 min, moderate.
Summary: Raw cliff with some potential for new routes.
This is the next cliff up and right from the Labor Day Wall. It's easier to get to than Alcatraz (further in the notch), but evidently way easier to get out of.
The cliff is loosely reminiscent of Lake Lila wall, although with below-average rock quality. There are some cracks, some face, and some loose rock. There is a roof band on the left end, and some potential for new routes.
Directions: Park and cross the river as per the Labor Day Wall [volume 1, page 392]. After crossing the river, contour right and slightly uphill across a drainage. Go more or less straight uphill (steep) through open hardwoods to the cliff. The forest isn't thick, but getting around is tedious.
Bullseye 5.8 G 120' ★
An OK line that would get an additional star if cleaner and closer to the road and near other routes.
Start: Uphill and left from the toe of the cliff, in a section where the rock "touches down". Locate three stacked blocks that you stand on to start the route next to a 4"-diameter yellow birch growing against the cliff. There is an undercut section of rock just to the left.
P1 5.8 G: Climb a short left-rising fingercrack past the birch tree. Face climb (runout, 5.6) up to a short handcrack with a small spruce at its top. Climb the crack to a stance, then move up a short face section (crux). Go past a few small overhangs to the top. 120'
Descent: 120' rappel from trees or walk down (skiers) right.
Gear: Cams to #2 Camelot, med to large stoppers.
Location: Off NY 30 between Tupper Lake and Long Lake.
Approach: 30 min, moderate.
Summary: Several quality crack routes on a cliff directly below a popular summit.
This cliff sits directly below the pretty summit cliff of Goodman Mountain. The rock is an off-vertical face and slab split by right-slanting cracks. The gem is Let's See Action, and shares an anchor with the other two routes which are good leads, but can also be toproped from this anchor.
At present, the routes are climbable, but need additional cleaning to make them really good.
Directions: From Tupper Lake (where NY 3 and NY 30 split), drive on NY 30 towards Long Lake for 9.2 miles to the Goodman Mountain Trailhead on the left 537136,4884826, also signed for the Horseshoe Lake Wild Forest.
Follow the paved (!) trail (red markers) for about 10 min. Turn 90° left off the trail 537794,4885314 and bushwhack uphill on a bearing of 353° to the cliff 537551,4885567, reached at 30 min. The bushwhack is slightly disorienting, as you're not going straight up the fall line; rather, you are going uphill and left.
Another option is to follow the trail to the summit (1.6 miles), walk south to the top of the cliff, then meander down either side to the base of the cliff. It's longer, but navigation is easier.
Let's See Action 5.8 G 100' ★★★
Start: At the height of the terrain at a left-slanting crack. (Most of the cracks on this cliff slant right, so this one is special.)
P1 5.8 G: Follow the left-slanting crack for 15', then move right to the more prominent right-slanting crack. Follow this to its end, then move up to a tiny ledge with a shared fixed anchor. 100'
Freedom Summer 5.10b G 80' ★★
Start: 15' down and right of Let's See Action at a right-slanting, wide crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner.
P1 5.10b G: Follow the wide crack, which narrows to tips (crux), to its end at an arête. Go up the arête (one 5.10a move) to a tiny ledge with a shared fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: In this order: Camalots #2, #1, #3, #2, #1; green Alien, 0.3 Camalot.
Our Battles Choose Us 5.10a G 80' ★★
Start: 5' right of Freedom Summer at a right-leaning seam.
P1 5.10a G: Go up the seam and slab (hidden pocket) to where the seam widens to a handcrack. Follow this up and right (5.9) to its end at an arête. Go up the arête (crux) to join the Freedom Summer arête, and climb this to the shared fixed anchor. 80'
Gear: To #3 Camalot.
Location: In the Three Sisters range, southwest of Warrensburg.
Approach: 1 hr 10 min, moderate.
Summary: A small cliff with only one exploratory route, but room for more.
Middle Sister is the middle of three hills west of Warrensburg, called the Three Sisters. The eastern hill is named Pine Mountain on USGS maps and better known as Hickory Hill for the ski center located on it. The western hill is labeled Bald Mountain on USGS maps. The middle summit has no official name, so "Middle Sister" seems appropriate. Each of these hills has cliffs on them, but they are all difficult to reach or private property.
Like most cliffs on the Hudson River's flanks, the rock is loose, and some of it is impressively large and unstable. There are a plethora of intriguing corners, books, and flakes, many of which are disappointingly crackless. To date there is only one route, but there is potential for many more.
Be aware that private land begins where the cliff bends to face south. A yellow arrow painted on the face of the cliff marks this boundary.
Access: Much of the cliff (but not all) on Middle Sister is on state land on the west side of the summit. Access is by a right-of-way beginning at the end of the road that goes by Hickory Hill Ski Center.
Directions: From the Northway (I-87) Exit 23 (0.0 mile), drive north on NY 9. At 0.4 mile, turn left onto River St (NY 418), cross the bridge, then turn right, staying on NY 418. At 3.7 miles, and just before the bridge over the Hudson River, turn left onto Hickory Hill Road. At 3.9 miles, the road goes left into the Hickory Hill Ski Center; go straight instead on a dirt road, now Katts Corners Rd. At 4.2 miles reach the end of the road, just past a house and close to the Hudson River. Park here at the DEC trailhead 595075,4814443.
From the parking area (0 hr 0 min), follow a good trail along the river for approximately half a mile, to where it climbs up away from the river through a dirt-bank notch at 20 min. At 25 min, turn upslope steeply to meet an old log road. Follow this upward to level ground at 55 min. The cliffs are an additional five min walk to the east, clearly visible when the leaves are down 594841,4813159.
Boundary Boys 5.7 G 220' ★
A recommended route if cleaned up. Lots of fist- to offwidth-crack climbing along this route.
Start: At a narrow, left-rising, right-facing ramp that wraps around an outside corner, 8' left of the state line boundary, marked by a large yellow arrow pointing upward on the face to the right.
P1 5.6 G: Follow the ramp up left around corner to a stance under an overhang. Pull up around the overhang onto a slabby stance below another overhang. Move right around this overhang into a groove that turns into a left- rising open book ramp. Follow the ramp to its end, then climb a crack in the face on the right to a large, sloping ledge. 75'
P2 5.7 G: Step left behind a boulder blocking entry to a chimney formed by the main face and a large block perched to its left. Go up to a stance beneath an overhanging, flaring chimney. Ascend this to another stance beneath an overhang. Turn the overhang on the right and climb an offwidth crack. Step right onto an exposed stance with a large, frightful-looking—but apparently stable—block perched on the edge of a notch. Climb up the notch and fingercrack above to a good ledge. 75'
P3 5.6 PG: Shift the belay: walk left onto a steep, wooded ramp, then upward 70' to a dirty, wet groove. Climb left on good footholds to a thin crack in a right-facing corner. Go up this and the stepped corners above to the top of the cliff. 70'
Gear: Include double #2 and #3 Camalots, and at least one #4 Camalot.
Bladerunner 5.9+ G 35' ★★
Start: 120' right of Up Yanda [route #1, volume 2, page 110], near the center of the cliff, in a dirty open book.
P1 5.9+G: Up the open book to the sharp right-facing flake. Continue up flake, then follow a thin seam to good side-pulls through a bulge. Tricky top-out. 35'
Martindale Rd 5.5 PG 35'
Start: 15' right of Bladerunner and 4' right of a short arête.
P1 5.5 PG: Up a dirty, low-angle face to a bulge. Follow a left-rising ramp to a right-rising fingercrack, then follow this to the top. 35'
Location: Keene, on the south face of Knob Lock Mountain.
Approach: 1 hr, difficult.
Knob Lock Mountain is familiar to climbers for the north-facing rock face directly across the road from Hurricane Crag with the popular ice climbing route Unexpected Pleasure. On the opposite side of the mountain is this large, lesser known, south-facing backcountry cliff. There are several sections to the cliff, ranging up to 200' high. The rock is alpine (roughly 2900') and generally good, with a few sections of loose red-colored rock. The approach is challenging, but easier if you are able to locate and follow the abandoned hiking trail.
The terrain drops steeply downhill to the center of the cliff, flattens, then rises again on the right side. The cliff is highest near the center, and shorter at either end. The cliff is divided into three sections: Left End, Main Wall, and Right End.
The Left End is about 130' wide, and is short and low angled on the left, and higher and steeper on the right, which ends at a barely-visible 4th class gully.
The Main Wall is very high, and the upper section is obscured from the ground. Just right of the Main Wall is a 100' section of 3rd and 4th class, bush-covered rock.
Right of the Main Wall is the Right End which begins with a steep face with good potential for routes. 150' right is a huge gully, 230' right is another large gully, and 300' right the cliff tapers into the ground.
Descent: Rappel with one or two ropes for the main section. It's possible to walk off the left and right sections in some areas.
Directions: Park on the south side of NY 9N, 6.2 miles west of the intersection with US 9 in Elizabethtown and 3.8 miles east of the intersection with NY 73 near Keene (and 0.3 mile east of the Hurricane Mountain Trailhead) 602499,4896042. This is at the "9N" highway sign.
Cross the highway and enter the woods about 75' east (towards Elizabethtown) from the "9N" highway sign, directly across the street from two short green phone company posts. You will immediately cross The Branch, a very small stream that parallels the highway. Continuing straight into the woods, in a few feet you will reach the brook which flows from the col between Knob Lock and Tripod. Follow this brook; the going is easiest on the left (east) side. At 3 min, reach a large boulder with a flat face facing the brook. Near here, go up left away from brook and parallel the brook up a steep ridge through open woods. Hike up to the right, to the base of a low, 15'-high cliff band, traverse right, cross a small tributary, and then head uphill.
In this area, look for the beginnings of an old hiking trail. There was a hiking trail in this drainage described in the 1941 and 1947 hiking guidebooks for the area. At that time, it was described as rough and difficult to follow, and it was abandoned shortly thereafter. However, ongoing use by bushwhackers has, to some extent, maintained the trail bed. If you are able to find and follow the old trail, the approach takes about 1 hour.
Make your way uphill in the drainage, and navigate to the col between KnobLock and Tripod 602922,4894693.Continue straight through the col. As the terrain begins to slope downhill towards Slide Brook, remnants of the old trail cross slabs along the slope of Knob Lock on your left. At some point, the old trail turns steeply uphill to the northeast to climb to the Knob Lock summit. Today, the hillside is a maze of deer paths. The easiest approach to cliffs is a climber's path which follows deer paths across slabs on the hillside heading generally east. The best path wanders up and down the hillside, and then steeply up to a promontory overlooking the Slide Brook valley; this is near the west end of the cliff, about 10 min from the col 603118,4894730.
Wandering Delight 5.5 G 50' ★
Start: At a low-angle face with incut holds, above which are two cracks 4' apart, and 20' left of a three-trunked, gnarled birch. There is at a small cairn here.
P1 5.5 G: Climb the face and cracks to the top. 50'
Slash 5.7 G 55' ★
Start: 20' right of Wandering Delight at a low-angle face with incut holds directly above the three-trunked, gnarled birch.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the face to a steeper crack line. 55'
The Landmark 5.7 G 100' ★★
Start: 100' into the Main Wall, at a striking left-facing corner with a jagged boulder sticking out of the ground at its base.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the corner to the top of the cliff. 100'
Hummingbird 5.6 G 140' ★
P1 is a bit loose. P2 is stellar.
Start: 60' right of The Landmark, at a low-angled section of angular rock.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the angular rock to a large ledge. Go up past a birch tree, then traverse right across a corner and up to the base of a black, left-facing corner. 70'
P2 5.6 G: Climb the impeccable, black, left-facing corner to the top of the cliff. 70'
Black Onyx 5.7 G 60' ★★
Start: 80' right of the huge gully, at a striking handcrack.
P1 5.7 G: Climb the crack. 60'
Location: Near Gore Mountain, accessed from NY 8 near Wevertown
Approach: 30 min, moderate
Summary: Mostly high-end crack and face routes with excellent rock in a remote setting; the premier "steep" climbing location in the park.
This cliff is located in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness area, low on the southernmost slopes of Gore Mountain. Unlike the main cliffs on Gore Mountain, which are located on state land in the ski area managed by ORDA where climbing is mysteriously prohibited, this cliff is located in the adjacent wilderness area and approached from the trail to Second Pond.
There are presently two cliffs: the Main Face and the North of Nowhere Wall. The Main Face is sheer and overhangs by 20°, and as such, none of the routes are easy. The rock is generally good, with some patina features similar to those on Crane Mountain. The North of Nowhere Wall is taller, vertical-to-overhanging with cracks and plated face features. Steep rock is rare in the Adirondack Park, and steep rock with good holds is even more rare. The only other comparable cliff is The Crown.
The setting at both walls is idyllic and quiet, and their positions in the open forest give the feeling of being high in the forest canopy.
There are many quality boulders scattered around the forest near the cliff and along the approach. The best collection of giant boulders, however, is near the road 577470,4833429.
Directions: Locate Chatiemac Road (4.3 miles south of the intersection of NY 8 and NY 28, and 1.5 miles north of the post office in Baker's Mills). Drive west on Chatiemac Road for 2.2 miles to the Second Pond Trailhead on the right 577186,4832895.
From the trailhead (0 hr 0 min), follow the trail north past a pond (on the left), then gently uphill. At 10 min, turn right off the trail 576782,4833697 at a 3'-tall pointed boulder on a bearing of 76°. Pick up a good path and follow this across Black Mountain Brook at 13 min, and up to a height of land 577197,4833972 at 20 min. Now in more open forest, continue on the path (following that same bearing) to the cliff 577573,4834208 at 30 min.
The Main Face of Chatiemac 577573,4834208 is the easiest to reach, and has a pleasant open base area. The face overhangs 15', so the base area remains dry in the rain.
Just left of the left end of the cliff is a high-quality boulder with problems from V0 to V9.
To reach the top of the Main Face, go up a broad-sloped gully right of (and around the corner from) Round Two. At the top of the gully, go west away from the cliff until you can drop back down some breaks in the subcliffs to the top of the wall. A bit circuitous.
Zah Dude 5.13a G 60' ★★★★★
The most obvious line at Chatiemac, and was the first route to be completed here. Sustained and intricate. The technical crux is just above the horizontal, and the redpoint crux is the overhanging crack to the anchors. There are some big moves which are harder for shorter climbers.
Start: On the left side of the face is a sheltered cave. Begin 30' right of the cave below a shallow, right-facing corner with a foot ledge 4' up.
● P1 5.13a G: Go up the corner, then right-leaning seam to a good horizontal crack. (There is an almost-always-wet set of holds to the right that make this section slightly easier, but are not required.) Move up a short, shallow, orange left-facing corner to its top, then punch it up and right past a square hold (crux) in the seam to a stance on the right on an orange, right-rising rail. Move back left and follow a seam–crack straight up to the top of the wall. Fixed anchor. 60'
Socratic Inquiry 5.12d G 60' ★★★★
Another dramatic, overhanging route with a hard start (5.12) to a good rest, then a sustained headwall topped by a heart-breaker dyno and mantle out of the pool.
Start: 25' right of Zah Dude, on the right side of some boulders below a right-leaning offwidth crack 6' up.
● P1 5.12d G: Climb up the right-leaning crack, then go up and left over an orange shield of rock (first crux) to a right-facing corner below a large roof. Break through the roof and climb parallel cracks up the overhanging headwall to their top. A final dyno (second crux) gains the slopers at the top of the wall. Mantel out to a fixed anchor. 60'
Round Two 5.12a G 45' ★★★★
Climbs a dramatic crack that leans 30° to the right on an overhanging wall. Sequential and pumpy with tricky-to-place, blind gear placements.
Start: At a right-leaning handcrack on the right end of the wall, 50' right of Socratic Inquiry.
P1 5.12a G: Climb the handcrack to a ledge 10' up. Make a long reach to gain the main crack and follow this to its end. Move up and left through a bulge to a fixed anchor. 45'
Gear: Camalots in this order: #2, #2, #0.5, #0.4. The flared crack with blind placements may require rehearsal.
From the Zah Dude area, walk right past Round Two to the steep slope used to access the top of the cliff. Continue to the right along the base of the cliff to a right-facing, 30° overhanging wall in a boulder-filled alcove. The cliff base is open and pleasant, with a feeling of being high in the forest canopy.
To reach the top of this wall, go up the gully right of Round Two for 20', then follow a rising ledge out right above the wall. There are good trees from which to rappel to the route anchors.
The Get Down 5.11a G 45' ★★★★
Big moves on giant jugs, as if it was set in a gym. This is the best (and only) warmup for this cliff.
Start: 40' left of Nature's Pocket below the steepest section of the wall, on top of the left of three large boulders.
● P1 5.11a G: Go up the steep, black and white rock to the where the wall angle changes. Continue up the face to a roof and fixed anchor just above. 45'
Nature's Pocket 5.11c G 45' ★★★★★
A high-quality line featuring gymnastic opening moves and a deceptively steep upper wall with unique two-finger and fist-sized pockets; incredible rock quality.
Start: At a very overhanging section of rock just left of the 30° overhanging wall, below a smile-shaped incut hold 7' up, and an angular left-facing flake 10' up.
● P1 5.11c G: Stick clip, then make powerful moves up over a bulge (crux) to an incut rail. Move right on the rail, then mantel onto a sloped stance. Continue up the steeper-than-it-looks, brown-colored wall past several right-facing sidepulls and cool pockets to a fixed anchor. 45'
Pushit 5.13b G 45' ★★★★★
One of the best "steep" routes in the park. Good rock and good holds; sustained. This right-facing wall faces northeast and is shaded most of the day.
Start: On the downhill, left-hand side of the right-facing, 30°-overhanging wall.
● P1 5.13b G: Climb a series of crimps up a sheer wall to a ledge, then to a second ledge. Follow an arching crack to gain a horizontal. Launch up the overhanging face to the top. 45'
The southeast-facing North of Nowhere Wall is located west of—and uphill from—the Main Face by 500'. The left end of the cliff is 100' tall and has a steep, narrow section of rock with a flat base; most of the routes are clustered in this area. The terrain rises uphill to the right where the cliff diminishes in height, but has promising sections for new, short, hard routes. The obvious, left-leaning, snaking crack Battle of the Blerch is located here.
To access the top, walk right and uphill past Battle of the Blerch. The terrain narrows to a dike-like gully that leads to the slopes above the cliff. The top is thick with vegetation and blowdown, and there are many ledges and gullies, making this a difficult cliff to set topropes.
A good strategy is to lead North of Nowhere. From this anchor you can reach left to the anchors on Magua and North of Magua, and when lowering, you can swing right to the anchor of 99 Problems.
Directions: At the height of land about 1 min before the Main Face, switchback to the left and walk uphill on a path to this cliff 577458,4834313.
Hawkeye 5.10c G 90' ★★★★
Excellent, varied climbing with interesting plated holds.
Start: 5' left of Magua at a V-notch in the knife-edge-topped boulder below a slab.
● P1 5.10c G: Up the slab to an overlap. Over this then step left to the overhanging wave. Move over the wave (crux) using several plates and a cool handlebar hold to a stance on a slab. Move right over the next bulge to another stance on a slab, then up the juggy arête to meet Magua below the roof. Follow Magua over the roof to a fixed anchor. 90'
Magua 5.13a G 90' ★★★★
Start: 5' left of North of Nowhere on top of a knife-edge-topped boulder.
● P1 5.13a G: (V1) Step onto the wall using a good incut jug, then undercling on a slab-ramp up and left under an overhanging wave of rock. About halfway across, go over the wave (crux) to jugs on the lip. Mantel onto the face, then up a short arête onto a slab. Go up and right over a bulge, then straight up the steep face on crimps—there is one 5.11a dynamic move in the middle—to the roof. Pull over the roof on protruding nipples to a fixed anchor just above. 90'
◉ V1 North of Magua 5.10b G ★★★★: This high-quality variation accesses the upper shield of the normal route reducing the overall grade of 5.11a. Start on North of Nowhere and climb to the slab stance above the short handcrack. Move up and left to an arête, then up Magua to the top. Gear: #1 Camalot.
North of Nowhere 5.10b G 90' ★★★★
A really good route in the middle of nowhere. There's a little of everything: overhanging bulges, a moderate crack, a steep face with amazing holds, and a roof.
Start: On the left side the flat area, at a shallow, 6'-tall right-facing corner above a wet patch with a great jug 7' up. This is 15' left of I Got 99 Problems But This Pitch Ain't One, the handcrack in black rock.
P1 5.10b G: Stick clip. Boulder up onto a bulge, then over another bulge to a short handcrack. Up this, then mantel onto a slab. Go up and right to an orange, left-facing open book and climb it to its top. Continue up a steep face with amazing incut plates to a roof. Step left and break the roof at a right-leaning crack. Up the crack to a fixed anchor. 90'
Gear: Cams to #1 Camalot, small to medium nuts.
I Got 99 Problems But This Pitch Ain't One 5.11d G 35' ★★★★
This trad masterpiece ascends the central black crack in the overhanging wall. When the crack narrows, it is flared and lacks good jams; the plates on the left wall, however, make it accessible.
Start: At a handcrack in black rock in the center of the flat area at the base of the cliff.
P1 5.11d PG: Up the handcrack into a flared pod. Follow a dramatic, rounded, overhanging, flared crack straight up (there are some helpful crimp-plates on the left) to a fixed anchor. 35'
Gear: In this order: Camalots #2, #0.3, 0.75, 0.5; green Alien; #6 Stopper; green Alien.
Closed project. Ascends the laser-cut tips seam on the right side of the overhanging wall.
Start: On the right side of the flat area, at a left-facing, right-leaning corner with an offwidth crack (the route South of Somewhere), below a laser-cut tips seam in the orange, overhanging face above.
● P1 5.13? G: Stick clip, then stem up 10' between the ramp and the seam. Move left into the seam and climb it to where it becomes a left-facing edge with some good holds at the top. Fixed anchor just above. 35'
South of Somewhere 5.8 G 70' ★★★
Lots of laybacking on this one, and, despite appearances, only one large piece is required.
Start: Same as Shazam!
P1 5.8 G: Up the corner to a chockstone at its top. Mantel the chockstone, then follow a handcrack up and left to its top. Make a cool face move onto a slab to access the fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: Single set of cams to #5 Camalot.
Climbs the difficult-to-miss left-leaning, snaking crack on a smooth buttress of rock.
Start: From the North of Nowhere area, follow the cliff base up and right 300' to a smooth buttress of rock. Begin below a left-leaning, snaking handcrack.
P1 5.10d G: Up the crack to its top where it doglegs left and ends. Move left around the blunt arête to a good flake-jug. Make a puzzling traverse left to the base of a wide water groove, then follow this straight up to a fixed anchor. 70'
Gear: To #3 Camalot