This area is described in the first edition (2008 and 2010), page 626, and in the second edition (2014), Volume 2, page 423.
As of September 2018, the Charcoal Kiln Quarry has been closed to climbing. Paul Smiths, the owner of the property, is making improvements to the area and may open it to the public in the future. Liability is one issue, which may require future visitors to sign a waiver at the VIC.
This approach is described in the first edition (2008 and 2010), page 410, and in the second edition (2014), Volume 1, page 503.
As of June 1, 2018, the trail from the Garden Trailhead to Porter Mountain via Little Porter is closed to the public by the landowner who owns a parcel the trail crosses. The only legal approach to the cliff on Porter Mountain is from the Marcy Field Trailhead (by hiking over Blueberry Mtn) or the Cascade Mountain Trailhead (by hiking over the top of Porter Mountain and down the other side). Neither of these options is practical.
This approach is described in the first edition (2008 and 2010), page 288, and in the second edition (2014), Volume 1, page 350.
As of June 2017, due to overuse and private land issues, the trail and parking for Owls Head Mountain is closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday. No alternative approach has been established. The trail will be permanently closed at the end of the 2017 hiking season.
Update May 2018: The closure from 2017 has been extended indefinitely. This means parking and hiking trail are only open only on weekdays.
These approaches are described in the first edition (2008 and 2010), pages 195 and 198, and in the second edition (2014), Volume 1, pages 236 and 240.
Due to beaver activity and a new thigh-deep pond, the DEC has kindly rerouted the approach to the Upper Washbowl and the Creature Wall. For the new approach, park at the trailhead for Giant Mountain, 0.2 mile from the Chapel Pond pullout (when you're driving toward Malfunction Junction). Follow the main hiking trail about 100 yards past the sign-in register to where the trail swings to the right. Leave the trail on the left (cairn) and follow flagging on a level bench to where it meets the old approach trail just below the cliff. This new approach is always dry. Click here for a revised map.
Several recent incidents at Poke-O Moonshine (Main Face) have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
This shortcut trail is shown on the map (first edition [2008, 2010], page 37; second edition , volume 1, page 30).
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
Please stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This cliff appeared in the first printing of the first edition (2008). It was removed in the second printing (2010) and in the second edition (2014).
East Hill Crag is on private property. Do not climb here without explicit permission from the land owner. Also, the approach trail to nearby Little Crow Mountain, marked with DEC trail markers, goes through private property, so please be respectful of local land owners, especially with your parking.
The approach described in the first printing of the first edition (2008) crossed private property. The approach was corrected in the second printing (2010) and in the second edition (2014).
Huckleberry Mountain is a popular day hiking destination with its attractive open summit and the historic Paint Mine Ruins. It's also a popular climbing destination with 55 routes up to 5.12, with a heavy emphasis on moderate routes. The Huckleberry/Crane massif is completely surrounded by private land.
The approach to Huckleberry Mountain from Paintbed Road, described on pages 492–493 of the first printing of the first edition (2008), crosses two parcels of private land before entering state land. The approach is the same as that for the Paint Mine Ruins, and has long been described in various hiking and climbing guidebooks to the region. These owners have recently posted their property and are now threatening to prosecute trespassers.
Until further notice, don't use this approach. The second printing (2010) describes the correct approach, as does the Second Edition (2014). Click here for an exerpt from the second edition describing the correct approach.